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The Dark Tower

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Approach

15 minutes north-west from the Rest House Camp in Rum.

Ethic inherited from Wadi Rum

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5
2 2
3 5
4 5+
5 5
6 5+
7 5
8 4
9 3

Approach up Wadi S. Bach Pitch numbers a bit different than the TH guide book

  1. f5 - 50m Start between the block and the wall, head right to the flake and gain the ramp. Belay on big ledge, there is a bolt about 5m to the right.

  2. Walk to the right about 20m, stop at the red wall just before the small roof system starts, still on the main face. You can see some features of P4

  3. f5 - Slab a bit run out, belay on a big ledge. (possible to link with P4 stopping just short of the tree ledge). Variation pitch: The wall just 8m right of the bolt-belay (along a fixed sling which you can see from the belay) to the big ledge. Same grade (f5), better belay.

  4. f5+ - Vertical crack, this might also be broken up into 2 pitches. Big abseil tree is to the right can end here or carry on. Ropes on tree look a bit old, but okay (tested 02/2023).

  5. f5 - The grey slab in front of the big tree. Other topos say no gear but marginal cams can be placed, BD4 used.

  6. (A short walk to the left before the start of this pitch.) f5, up the crack, physical, laybacks and jams

  7. f5+ up the crack, physical, a mantel, slopey laybacks and jams, tough for the grade (possible option to swing out left on the face rather than direct

  8. f3

  9. f3

Descent:

Rappel Down the route, then either - repel to the big tree and repels into couloir. - or repels down the main face to the start (one being 60m to the bolt at the top of the 1st pitch).

Topos: Howard guidebook #25.

FA: Tony Howard, Wilfried Colonna, di taylor, a baker, M Shaw, A Baker & Di Taylor, 1985

1 5+
2 6a
3 5+
4 5+
5 7a
6 6a
7 5+
8 5
9 4

FA: Arnaud Guillaume & Christian Ravier, 2006

1 6a+ 30m
2 5+ 40m
3 6a+ 45m
4 6b 35m
5 6a 15m
6 6c 50m
7 4 40m

FA: remi laborde & christian ravier, Dec 2014

Topo: Howard guidebook #26.

1 5
2 5
3 6c
4 5
5 6a

FA: Piene Yves Gibellr, 1995

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Thierry Souchard

Date: 2017

ISBN: 9782952638876

A selective guidebook describing 180 multi-pitch routes from 7 areas around the world, covering Calanques, Verdon, Sardinia, Meteora, Wadi Rum, Tsaranoro, Red Rocks, and Zion.

Author(s): Thierry Souchard

Date: 2017

Ce topo numérique présente une sélection de 26 grandes voies (tirées du topo Rock around the World) La quasi-totalité des itinéraires proposés sont en TA. Evidemment, ce style d’escalade « sur coinceurs » force à la modestie mais dans les voies présentées, le rocher se prête bien aux protections, notamment le long des belles lignes de fissures. D’autres voies davantage typées « montagne » privilégient la recherche d’itinéraire à la difficulté pure et sont également intéressantes. Elles sont un prolongement des fameuses voies bédouines. Ces « randonnées du vertige » découvertes par les locaux sont la plus belle et sans doute la seule vraie façon de visiter les lieux. Certaines voies d’escalade décrites ici empruntent des voies bédouines pour redescendre et 2 voies bédouines d’accès au sommet du Jebel Rum sont décrites précisément. Le niveau requis pour la sélection est de 6a/6b sur coinceurs. Tracés précis des voies sur photos « zoomable » Le contenu du topo est visible sur l’appli OmegaRoc.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Thu 25 May
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