Routes in Middle East for selected grade

The left most boulder problem on the cliff. Despite it's danger rating, it has solid rock and movements! Start in a corner and make a big move up and right to a good pocket (can be done both static or dynamic) Make a few more difficult moves to get established in the upper corner, then enjoy a slightly more casual top out. Careful. If you blow any of the upper moves you'll come crashing down onto a large boulder and probably get really messed up...

Sit start the crack and lay back up to a nice large flat edge. Make a move or two on good edges then tackle the crux. The crux requires a high left foot to stand up into an undercling above your head. Slap the jug right above it. Then traverse easily off left.

To find it walk to the left end of the Old school wall. Climb up 5 feet to a small ledge (Where The Wire starts) and follow the cliff line to the end. Shadows and The Kung Fu Method are located right there before you turn the corner. This is the middle/obvious crack at the end of the cliff line.

Climb up the fragile rock countering a distinct crux. Would be best to wear a helmet

Cool overhanging route. Beware of rope friction when lowering

Despite the modest grades this is not exactly a good beginners multi-pitch. With loose rock on virtually every pitch, sound judgement and route-finding skills are a must. The first two pitches are both very loose. The 3rd pitch has the best quality rock on the whole route and is pretty fun. The 4th pitch is short, and chossy but slightly less so than the first two pitches. The last pitch is higher quality, but has some dangerous death blocks that can be avoided if you're careful. Beautiful views the whole way up!

P1 5.8 60 ft: Climb up the corner/slab using side pulls and high steps until you traverse right to the anchors. The crux may be figuring out which holds are good enough to pull on.

P2 5.8 45 ft: Climb up the easy slab. Lots of loose rock here so be careful!

P3 5.10C 80 ft: The rock quality is much better on this pitch! Balance-y moves and technical face climbing lead you to a very comfortable ledge.

P4 5.8 80 ft: Climb up the easier slab to the base of the much steeper final pitch.

P5 5.11b 115 ft: Climb up the steepening face with awesome exposure! Starts off relatively easy and gets harder towards the top. Watch out for some very big loose blocks near the top!

Rap the route with 2 60m or a single 70m rope.

A steepish route with multiple cruxes separated with good rests.

The first bolt is a bit high but there is a good clipping hold.

The bolted route to the left of Richter Scale. Climbs up a face using crimps and big huecos and flakes.

Finishes under the big roof. Has cleaned up significantly over the years but still be weary of a couple of thin looking flakes.

a 60m gets you down just fine

Bouldery overhanging jugs lead to a good rest 3/4 way up. Then steep technical climbing to a crux at the last 10 feet pulling over the roof. Start is behind a grove of trees. Beginning holds are a bit high up, stand on a tree if you must.

2-bolt top anchor with a chain

Climbs the slabby to vertical face to the left of the triangle routes. A sustained pitch with multiple cruxes between good rests. Flakes and layback moves with plenty of highsteps thrown in. A bit dirty at the moment.

A deceptively hard face climb. A bouldery start leads to a small ledge where a rest can be had. Continue up the face on small edges and pockets for a few bolt or until you reach another boulder problem. Using very small holds, and even smaller feet, climb over the bulge. Easier climbing leads you to the anchors. The opening boulder problem will feel harder for short people

When it comes to movement this is one of the bets pitches at the crag! Sadly it has been the site of much controversy regarding it's bolting. What was originally a perfectly safe route has been dumbed down by retro-bolting from a few weak-minded individuals...If you want to climb the route in it's formal glory, only clip the original bolts (it's very easy to distinguish due to the new bolts being very shiny)

anyways...climb up the easy slab to where the wall turns to vertical. Make some big moves on good incut edges until you can clip the anchors from a stance under the big flake. Clipping the anchor may be harder if you're short.

A wonderful, long route that has managed to avoid the wrath of retro-bolting... Climb up the easy slab to face climbing and a dihedral with technical and thought provoking moves.

Climb through the juggy lower section to the thin crux at the roof

The longest route on this wall. Varied moves bring you up on large pockets and edges. Move between flakes at the top. Wanders a bit and will test your route finding abilities!

Mellow moves leads to a rather exiting crux towards the top! Bolts to a two chain anchor.

An aesthetic climb with a memorable crux! An easy and less steep start leads up to harder and increasingly pumpier climbing to the final overhang where you must dispatch a puzzling, and committing final crux. One of the best at the crag for sure

Climb past 2 bolts to a beautiful right facing corner. Shares anchors with Lichen My Whistle

Start with a sharp boulder problem and continue up awesome climbing to the anchor.

A bouldery start followed by a brave exit from the crux.

Teeter up the arete onto the ledge and finish on the steep face.

Short, powerful, the route up the steep wall right next to the road (best to time your attempts when there isn't a bus or lorry approaching!).

The great sustained route up the rightward trending cracks. Finish direct up the steep slab.

The so-so short technical route in the 'hidden' sector.

Excellent route on positive holds with a crux high up.

Takes the wall close to the beehive - take care if they are active! 2 variations at the beehive. going right you can avoid the beehive

New route right of Microcosmos. Sustained, technical, and fingery.

Hard and sharp start, bouldery/brave crux, Easy-ish second half.

Another good 6c.

Really nice route with a bouldery crux at one third height; take on the left of the bulge for full tick; deduct half a grade if go right close to Midheia.

Another hard 6c.

Tricky and awkward climbing. Some looseness so take care. Worth noting that anything you pull off is likely to land in the middle of the main road.

#SD Vertical crack only. Topo.

The grade was given starting from the top of the rock. Starting from the ground is harder but you might get injured in case of a fall.

The wall right of the big corner.

same start as "bleeding spartan" then goes left

Amazing route with a tricky start. The crux is slabby and technical.

A scary dyno move!

A perfect route, 2 finger solution in the middle and a bouldery crux on top make the route a must-do!

Nice route with tricky start (magic feet) and a generous runout from 4th to 5th bolt where you need to be careful. Same anchor with the next two routes.

A fun contrived problem. Start on a large hollow feature on the left of the face and dyno for a large ledge and finish straight up.

#SD on crimps/edges, on the right side of "Durin" (just before the path goes steep towards the river) and establish yourself on the arete-like feature that goes all the way up and joins the finish of "Durin". Be careful not to fall in the river otherwise you might turn into a Ghollum!

Beta specific climb. Establish well in the anchor before clipping.

The definitive agios irakleidios 6c route that'll warm your heart and your fingers.

In far right end of the crag. Very easy start using the boulder behind. Interesting short crux sequence with easy solution.

#SD Topo.

Official grade is 6a+ but must be a mistake.

Multipitch from routes "Cerber", "Hades", "Corner" and "Chimney" possible. From route "Nif-Nif" it's also possible but not nice to do.

When coming from "Corner" or "Chimney", you have to climb up to the anchor at the start of this route.

Additional bolts and anchors (around 27m high) are available.

Rappelling necessary, walking down not possible.