Routes in Middle East for selected grade

The left most boulder problem on the cliff. Despite it's danger rating, it has solid rock and movements! Start in a corner and make a big move up and right to a good pocket (can be done both static or dynamic) Make a few more difficult moves to get established in the upper corner, then enjoy a slightly more casual top out. Careful. If you blow any of the upper moves you'll come crashing down onto a large boulder and probably get really messed up...

Sit start the crack and lay back up to a nice large flat edge. Make a move or two on good edges then tackle the crux. The crux requires a high left foot to stand up into an undercling above your head. Slap the jug right above it. Then traverse easily off left.

To find it walk to the left end of the Old school wall. Climb up 5 feet to a small ledge (Where The Wire starts) and follow the cliff line to the end. Shadows and The Kung Fu Method are located right there before you turn the corner. This is the middle/obvious crack at the end of the cliff line.

A boulder problem down low leads to easier climbing.

Start from the ground, not from the rock. Beware of rope friction when lowering

A steepish route with multiple cruxes separated with good rests.

The first bolt is a bit high but there is a good clipping hold.

A deceptively hard face climb. A bouldery start leads to a small ledge where a rest can be had. Continue up the face on small edges and pockets for a few bolt or until you reach another boulder problem. Using very small holds, and even smaller feet, climb over the bulge. Easier climbing leads you to the anchors. The opening boulder problem will feel harder for short people

Climb up the face on crimps with good feet the whole way up. As you make your way to the very top you'll encounter two drilled pockets, it is possible to skip them. Sustained and techy all the way up

Pay attention to a number of quickdraws before jumping in. You can skip a few of 'em, though

When it comes to movement this is one of the bets pitches at the crag! Sadly it has been the site of much controversy regarding it's bolting. What was originally a perfectly safe route has been dumbed down by retro-bolting from a few weak-minded individuals...If you want to climb the route in it's formal glory, only clip the original bolts (it's very easy to distinguish due to the new bolts being very shiny)

anyways...climb up the easy slab to where the wall turns to vertical. Make some big moves on good incut edges until you can clip the anchors from a stance under the big flake. Clipping the anchor may be harder if you're short.

A wonderful, long route that has managed to avoid the wrath of retro-bolting... Climb up the easy slab to face climbing and a dihedral with technical and thought provoking moves.

A massive route that climbs the entire cliffs face. Climb up the vertical face encountering a mini crux on sloping edges. climb a few easier bolts to a ledge which you could bivi on. Rest up and when ready fire the last 40 feet of power-crimping on beautiful rock (real crux). If not for the ledge rest it would be an incredible mega-endurance route. This route is LONG so bring either an 80m rope or two 60m to get off. Because it is not very overhanging, cleaning on rappel is ok!

An aesthetic climb with a memorable crux! An easy and less steep start leads up to harder and increasingly pumpier climbing to the final overhang where you must dispatch a puzzling, and committing final crux. One of the best at the crag for sure

Climb past 2 bolts to a beautiful right facing corner. Shares anchors with Lichen My Whistle

This Burly rock climb will get you jacked. Watch out for a hidden pocket halfway up.

A bouldery start followed by a brave exit from the crux.

Teeter up the arete onto the ledge and finish on the steep face.

Short, powerful, the route up the steep wall right next to the road (best to time your attempts when there isn't a bus or lorry approaching!).

Straight forward climbing leads to an owl hole feature. Make a difficult big move. Continue with difficulty to the top. Again trickier for the short.

A short sharp BOULDER shock start follows a brave! runout at the top.

The so-so short technical route in the 'hidden' sector.

Vertical route with almost nothing to grab on. Very difficult move in the crux going left to the 5th bolt.

An excellent route that takes the steepest ground in this sector. Gets gradually harder and harder until the overhanging flake is gained. A couple of strong pulls over this then romp to the top. Not easy to clean due to it sharing the lower off with Mageia.

An outstanding route, varied and takes the one obvious natural line on this wall. The first half is straightforward, but with nice moves. The technical crux is the slightly overhanging and blank wall above, split by the narrowest of cracks. This is followed by powerful moves over an overhang, followed by thankfully easier climbing to the top. Was 6c+, but is now given 7a after the loss of a key jug at the end of the crux.

Another sustained technical route. Includes some pleasant burly moves.

Don't forget the route a little to the left of Hara Kiri. Nice moves, sustained, and not so sharp as some of the routes on this wall.

Another hard 6c.

Tricky and awkward climbing. Some looseness so take care. Worth noting that anything you pull off is likely to land in the middle of the main road.

Make big pullover starting lip, difficult moves up the groove, then vertical ground to the top.

Start with big hole. Topo.

#SD Left crack only. Topo.

#SD Vertical crack only. Topo.

Ground start of Arhigos Mpanagiotis. Climb with caution and ideally start with the 2nd bolt clipped. Bouldery but nice!

same start as "bleeding spartan" then goes left

Flag happiness!

A scary dyno move!

Very nice route with a very tricky crux. After it becomes easier following a crack/chimney.

Nice route with tricky start (magic feet) and a generous runout from 4th to 5th bolt where you need to be careful. Same anchor with the next two routes.

The first line after the chimney with an undercut crux and tricky moves to clip the chains.

A fun contrived problem. Start on a large hollow feature on the left of the face and dyno for a large ledge and finish straight up.

Up the beautiful flat face of the Eagle Claw Buttress, following and using the obvious (sometimes ugly) exfoliating flake system.

Descent: belay each other directly to the right a few meters and escape onto solid ground. Or use TWO 60m ropes and rappel from the top anchors. You CANNOT reach the first anchor by rapping from the top anchor -- it will leave you a few meters away from the wall. You MUST use two ropes to reach the ground from the top anchor.

The 1st route on the main wall. Finally equipped with permanent anchor. Powerfully delicate start develops into delicately delicate finish up to the 3rd draw.

Beware of the first two clips. Very very fun.

In far right end of the crag. Very easy start using the boulder behind. Interesting short crux sequence with easy solution.

#SD Topo.

Official grade is 6a+ but must be a mistake.