Routes in Middle East for selected grade

Traverses the entire cliff form right to left, then back again. Start on the right and encounter a low crux at about midway after a good stemming rest. Easier moves brings you all the way to the left side of the cliff where another decent rest can be had. On the way back bust up and traverse the upper lip (2nd crux) dip back down when you can (down climb the crack) and finish back where you started.

Sit start (crux) down and on the right side of the cave on a sidepull (left of the wall you will climb.) throw up to a good flat edge and then to another side pull. then climb right into the stand start. Make a few moves on more side pulls and a thin flake to a good pocket thumb catch, a throw to a 2 finger pocket, then a big move to a jug up high. Enjoy easier moves to the top until you're faced with a very committing top out straight up (the holds are there!) The stand start goes at a mellow v1

A wonderful climb that would be a great highball if not for the death landing. Climb up underneath the overhang and clip the high bolt. Undercling and heel hook and make a big throw to a jug up high. clip the 2nd bolt and walk off. Then figure out how to get your gear back...

Start from a big jug and climb up to the roof where you find a savage bouldery crux to go past. Then you come to a slabby technical part and a traverse section after a 4-th quickdraw that joins the route with Blue Gray Fun

You'd better bring either a second rope or 3-4 extensible quickdraws to avoid a massive rope drag after the traverse.

2-bolt anchor without a chain.

An engaging climb bring your crimp strength. Possibly pre-clip the second bolt.

A boulder problem down low leads to easier climbing.

Start from the ground, not from the rock. Beware of rope friction when lowering

Climb up the face on crimps with good feet the whole way up. As you make your way to the very top you'll encounter two drilled pockets, it is possible to skip them. Sustained and techy all the way up

Pay attention to a number of quickdraws before jumping in. You can skip a few of 'em, though

A massive route that climbs the entire cliffs face. Climb up the vertical face encountering a mini crux on sloping edges. climb a few easier bolts to a ledge which you could bivi on. Rest up and when ready fire the last 40 feet of power-crimping on beautiful rock (real crux). If not for the ledge rest it would be an incredible mega-endurance route. This route is LONG so bring either an 80m rope or two 60m to get off. Because it is not very overhanging, cleaning on rappel is ok!

Somewhat sequential climbing on pockets brings you up the wall with rests right where you need them. Near the top the character of the climbing changes nature and you are forced to grab some rather small crimps on the steepest part of the wall.

Have your belayer clip into the low bolt by the boulder and belay there.

Note on First Free Ascent: The first free ascent of this route was sniped from me by a couple of visiting Russian climbers who ignored my red tag.

Sustained and pumpy climbing with hard to find feet takes you past a V-shaped flake then up and right past a series of cracks before heading right around the bulge.

Two easy bolts lead to a steep boulder problem, then continue up easier climbing to the anchor.

A bouldery start followed by a brave exit from the crux.

Straight forward climbing leads to an owl hole feature. Make a difficult big move. Continue with difficulty to the top. Again trickier for the short.

A short sharp BOULDER shock start follows a brave! runout at the top.

Excellent climbing past the blob then up the ramp to a steep finish. Harder and better since the loss of a big hold.

7a+ since March 2020 (from 7a) due to a broken hold. Now the middle section has a new sequence.

A hard short technical route in the 'hidden' sector.

Vertical route with almost nothing to grab on. Very difficult move in the crux going left to the 5th bolt.

Recently rebolted. It is a straight line now starting from old Stefanos Direct.

Recently rebolted. It is a straight line now starting from old Mitsaki.

An excellent route that takes the steepest ground in this sector. Gets gradually harder and harder until the overhanging flake is gained. A couple of strong pulls over this then romp to the top. Not easy to clean due to it sharing the lower off with Mageia.

An outstanding route, varied and takes the one obvious natural line on this wall. The first half is straightforward, but with nice moves. The technical crux is the slightly overhanging and blank wall above, split by the narrowest of cracks. This is followed by powerful moves over an overhang, followed by thankfully easier climbing to the top. Was 6c+, but is now given 7a after the loss of a key jug at the end of the crux.

A new route between Kypseli and Microcosmos. Grade to be confirmed. Longest route on the Main Wall.

Another sustained technical route. Includes some pleasant burly moves.

Don't forget the route a little to the left of Hara Kiri. Nice moves, sustained, and not so sharp as some of the routes on this wall.

Big step up to start. Difficult crux through the overhang, then vertical ground to the top.

Make big pullover starting lip, difficult moves up the groove, then vertical ground to the top.

#SD Topo.

Start with big hole. Topo.

#SD Left crack only. Topo.

Ground start of Arhigos Mpanagiotis. Climb with caution and ideally start with the 2nd bolt clipped. Bouldery but nice!

Start with a big block and climb the side wall via a tiny groove.

The huge overhang is taken direct at its biggest span. Originally done as a traditionally protected route, which must have been fun!

Flag happiness!

The crux is in the second exit. 7a+ if you go straight. Easier traverse right maybe 6c+/7a.

Very nice route with a very tricky crux. After it becomes easier following a crack/chimney.

Same start as "Mascle Eater" but follow the bolts going straight up.

The first line after the chimney with an undercut crux and tricky moves to clip the chains.

Starts at the same point as "O Dromos tou Drakou" put follows the right going crack crosses "mia eksada redbull" then goes up.

Start on edges and a large hollow feature and climb past two diagonal cracks for a tall finish.

A fun contrived problem. Start on a large hollow feature on the left of the face and dyno for a large ledge and finish straight up.

Up the beautiful flat face of the Eagle Claw Buttress, following and using the obvious (sometimes ugly) exfoliating flake system.

Descent: belay each other directly to the right a few meters and escape onto solid ground. Or use TWO 60m ropes and rappel from the top anchors. You CANNOT reach the first anchor by rapping from the top anchor -- it will leave you a few meters away from the wall. You MUST use two ropes to reach the ground from the top anchor.

The 1st route on the main wall. Finally equipped with permanent anchor. Powerfully delicate start develops into delicately delicate finish up to the 3rd draw.

A very intricate start up to the crux. Height specific.

Beware of the first two clips. Very very fun.

Very short and powahfull. Not yet checked the anchors. Avoid until further notice.

Official grade is 5c or 6a but must be a mistake.