Routes in Middle East for selected grade

İlk Adım is a 40 meters long traditional enjoyable route.

Kılçıksız is the longest trad. route in this sector. It has good hands and cracks at the first half and the second half is dirty to some extend.

Topo: Howard guidebook #10.

On the "Corner" Crag next to Full Moon Waning, west from an Al Hasani from Obeid's Camp.

A pleasant scramble to the summit, with optional climbing.

On the west face, the route is easily spotted by the giant ramp. The TH guidebook topo seems a touch off on the location of some of the features.

Weave your way up the easiest path of the lower formation to reach a short problem of f4 just below the main ramp, (a bit reachy). After the ramp, head in the same direction into the bushy gully and find your way up the easiest part of the left wall to gain the domes to the summit. There is also a hidden rock bridge on the right.

Alternatively after the ramp, cross the plateau and head left along the wall to find 2 pitches of 5- and 4+ (possibly the big black corner, unchecked).

Descent: from the summit find the abseil back down to the plateau / ramp top, from there reverse route either abseil or scramble. Alternatively descend via Bedouin routes north or south unchecked.

İlk Adım is a 40 meters long traditional enjoyable route

solo downclimb

#1, 14, 20m. Up the steep gully, bridging amongst tree-choked ledges to a jetroufah tree belay on the left. #2, 9. 10m. The Barefoot traverse. Traverse right on good feet and jugs. A good barefoot problem with a homemade harness fashioned from 2 inch webbing as on the first ascent, #3. 15. 30m. A tad run-out. Up fused corner and over the bulge. BD #3 here. Follow the crack R of the roof. Mantle cloven flakes onto Scimitar ledge. #4. 30m. Up easily to the top.

Kılçıksız is the longest trad. route in this sector. It has good hands and cracks at the first half and the second half is dirty to some extend.

solo

solo downclimb

Very easy trad intro in Rum with comfortable places to build stations. Hard to protect 3rd pitch leads to nice 4th pitch crack.

Climb up the super low angled slab making a high-step crux towards the top. Has a two bolt anchor at the end of the slab before the wall turns vertical. A great route for children or first timers. If you don't have trad gear you might as well just solo it to set it up for beginners. It's really easy... Also you could climb a "direct" start with the short slabby hand crack, which is kinda fun. The dual cracks up top (left is easier) have been led but there is no top anchor due to chossy nature of the rock at the top. If you're going to do the "second" pitch or link it to the top, make a gear anchor and belay your second up. Goes at about 5.10

Topo: Howard guidebook #11.

İlk Aşk is a wonderful moderate traditional route that follows an indiscriminate left trending crack an anchor shared with Kuymak.

Location İlk Aşk is located 14 meters right of a large pine tree at the base of the cliff, above the gazebos. Follow a left-trending camouflage crack.

Protection Trad to 2", 2 bolt anchor

The obvious huge corner system is trad.

pitons + slings are needed

5 Pitches of varied climbing, cracks, faces, corners and mushrooms, finishing up the black groove.

1. 3+: From a small canyon on the east side of the mountain, start up the crack and move left to a 2nd higher crack.

2. 4+: Gain the ledge, then climb through 2 mushrooms, then walk left to belay from large threads.

3. 4+: Easy walk left then back up right, climb up the slab.

4. 3+: Climb up the corner crack in the black groove. (~40m)

5. 3+: Continue up the corner crack heading right onto the face then left at the end.

Decent: Head north over the back to find your way down. Perhaps a small down climb to reach the ground. (30 mins)

linea trad in fessura non chiodata con sosta a spit

Not in the guide book. Round the corner from barefoot groove. About UK grade severe.

Trad line unsure of where it is.

More of a scramble than a climb. A gentle morning out. Situated on the west face. Looks like it has not been climbed all that much so there is brittle rock all over. The guide book gives this route a grade f5 however it didn't seem like that, so we might have been off route.

Gear: Hardly any as there is either no point placing anything or you can't. A hand full of mid sized cams. Slings useful. Final abseil is about 60m.

Time: 4 hours up and down taking it very easy.

• Pitch 1 f4: The climb starts to the left of all the vertical cracks which lead to the mushroom overhang. There is a less than vertical gully. Climb this, unprotectable (or pointless to protect) for about 50m till you reach a short 2m face. Belay from above the face.
• Pitch 2 to summit, f3: Heading practically straight up the ramps. There is no massive need to do any pitched climbing if you don't want to as you can walk around any problems, but if you enjoy building anchors you can.

Descent.

Walk back down keeping a little bit to left of the route as it's less steep. 20 meters of so before the first belay head right and into the next big gully. The guide book mentions a hidden abseil. We didn't see any evidence, but set up an abseil on a big thread and went down the face, to the floor (approx 60m).

A big jaggedy crack of variable width and creative protection. Guide book says it's a f4 but it could feel harder if your not used to the awkward style.

Time: 4 hours up and down, if you know where you're going 2 hours. Approach 30 mins to 1 hour from rakabat east entrance.

Gear: Full rack.

• P1 f-5: Straight up the crack, Reaching a small ledge/cave on the right with a big thread (40m).
• P2 f4: Exit the cave back into the crack where it opens up more, with bridging and standing on what could be brittle spikes and flakes. Belay from a big flat ledge with a roof on the right just before the crack opens and flattens out
• P3 f3: Climb / traverse right to reach a bigger plateau (limited useful protection).
• P4 f3: Optional, scramble to the summit. If not head up right to the ridge line.

Descent.

Follow the ridge line steeply down generally staying on the right side snaking back and forth. There will be some down climbing and maybe some cairns. Eventually trending more to the right, heading for the canyon crossroad. It is possible to get down without abseiling.

A single pitch route to the right of the routes Little gem and Soumises. Abseil on threads.

Plaisir route Ascent to the routes

İlk Aşk is a wonderful moderate traditional route that follows an indiscriminate left trending crack an anchor shared with Kuymak.

Location İlk Aşk is located 14 meters right of a large pine tree at the base of the cliff, above the gazebos. Follow a left trending camouflage crack.

Protection Trad to 2", 2 bolt anchor

İlk Aşk is a wonderful moderate traditional route that follows an indiscriminate left trending crack an anchor shared with Kuymak.

Location İlk Aşk is located 14 meters right of a large pine tree at the base of the cliff, above the gazebos. Follow a left trending camouflage crack.

Protection Trad to 2", 2 bolt anchor

only heads

Fun climbing for a 4, run out. No anchor, but might be possible to improvise with the features, use caution.

Godesbana is a enjoyable 20 meter route that climbs a moderate angled face with nice holds and a handful of slopers. Start with a short vertical section of rock and continue past three bulges to reach an anchor at the base of the vertical face.

Location Godesbana is located in the middle of the sector. This climb starts directly above a medium sized pine tree at the base of the cliff and on the uphill side of the trail.

Protection 10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Traversing right.

Edi is a short yet surprisingly enjoyable moderate route on very positive holds. Climb up solid gray rock that gets progressively steeper as the holds get progressively larger. Enjoy a couple hero moves on giant jugs to clip the anchor at the lip of a small overhang.

Edi is a short yet surprisingly enjoyable moderate route on very positive holds. Climb up solid gray rock that gets progressively steeper as the holds get progressively larger. Enjoy a couple hero moves on giant jugs to clip the anchor at the lip of a small overhang.

Büdü is a short yet enjoyable route that starts up a moderate and less than vertical face. Stay left of a small tree growing underneath a roof 5 meters off the ground. Follow the bolts up a very featured face and enjoy bigger holds as the wall kicks back to a slight overhang at the anchor.

Büdü is a short yet enjoyable route that starts up a moderate and less than vertical face. Stay left of a small tree growing underneath a roof 5 meters off the ground. Follow the bolts up a very featured face and enjoy bigger holds as the wall kicks back to a slight overhang at the anchor.

Yomra is an enjoyable moderate route that starts with a couple meters of steep climbing on large holds. Through the middle portion of the route you will find nice slab movement before getting back into the steep jugs. Finish at an anchor located on the right side of a over hanging bulge.

Location Yomra is located in the middle of the sector. This climb starts 3 meters right of a medium sized pine tree at the base of the cliff and on the uphill side of the trail.

Protection 9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

7 slings

beginning of multi-pitch

4 slings

Godesbana is a enjoyable 20 meter route that climbs a moderate angled face with nice holds and a handful of slopers. Start with a short vertical section of rock and continue past three bulges to reach an anchor at the base of the vertical face.

Location Godesbana is located in the middle of the sector. This climb starts directly above a medium sized pine tree at the base of the cliff and on the uphill side of the trail.

Protection 10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor