Routes in Middle East for selected grade

(please move to the right location) This is the first climb you come to. Should be #1, before Mermaid.

One meter right of 6a+ Surya Namaskar and exactly opposite Gönül Gözü

This is a more ambitious variant to reach the pillar.

Approach: As for the Direct Ridge Way, follow the route to the rock bridge. Pass a bolt. From the bolt rappel to the big tree through the opening and proceed at the south-east side of the mountain for approx. 150 meters at the same hight until the wall at the left side forms a prominent ramp section.

1. pitch (1-2): Start at the center of the ramp section and ascend to the right towards a small tree at the right side of the ramp. There is a bolt at the ramp above the tree (this bolt is also part of the descend route).

2. pitch (3-4): From the bolt ascend the ramp further straight up towards a large terrace. Use the big trees to build a belay.

3. pitch (5): At the terrace, build a belay at the big tree in front of the wall. From the tree ascend further, first straight wall then a dihedral. Further on, pass below a slight overhang and ascend the ramp to the right passing small trees. Build a belay at the bolt on the wall.

4. pitch (5+): From the bolt make a short traverse to the right, then further ascend towards a yellow overhang. Traverse to the left and further ascend in a dihedral. Build a belay at a block.

5. pitch (2): Further ascend in easy terrain in a wide crack to the top of the big pillar at the right side.

1. pitch approx. 150m (1-2): From south-east ascend on a reef towards the big terrace in easy terrain. At the terrace ascend further to the left in south-west direction.

2. pitch (2-3): From the terrace ascend approx. 20 meters towards a big tree on the left side of a prominent, 7 meter wide cave. A belay can be built at the tree.

3. pitch (2): From the tree traverse approx. 15 m to the left to a small tree at the ridge. Use the tree and the blocks to build a belay.

4. pitch (4): From the small tree ascend the structured wall approx. 35 meters zigzag, first to the left then to the right. During our first ascend there were two hornet nests in this wall section, about 3 meters beside the route. Use the bolt on the wall to build a belay.

5. pitch (2): From the bold traverse approx. 15 meters to the left, slightly ascending towards a big tree. Use the tree to build a belay.

6. pitch (6-): From the tree traverse some meters to the left and then ascend the wall beginning with a dihedral and passing a bolt. Build a belay on the bolt at the green step below a big crack.

7. pitch (6-): From the bolt traverse to the right behind the edge and than ascend a dihedral approx. 6 meters. Build a belay at the bolt on the lying wall.

8. pitch (5+): From the bold further ascend approx. 40 meters towards a big tree. Use the tree to build a belay.

9. pitch (2-3): From the tree traverse approx. 20 meters to the left passing two edges. Then ascend the steep wall until it becomes vertical. Build a belay at the bold in front of the wall.

10. pitch (5): From the bolt traverse approx. 10 meters to the right, then ascend the wall in a slight crack for approx. 40 meters. Build a belay at the bold on the wall.

11. pitch (4): From the bolt further ascend the wall, first slightly to the right, then straight towards the summit. Use suitable blocks to build a belay.

Jane is a spectacular traditional route that follows a very featured crack that trends left for the first 10 meters of the route and passes two small ledges. The upper half of the climb follows an inside corner to the top of the dark rock. At the time of this entry the anchor consisted of a tat thread through that left much to be desired. A better option is finishing at the two bolt anchor at the top of Kuymak.

Location Jane is located 10 meters right of a large pine tree at the base of the cliff above the picnic area gazebos. Follow a prominent crack on this portion of cliff.

Protection Gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor

Jane is a spectacular traditional route that follows a very featured crack that trends left for the first 10 meters of the route and passes two small ledges. The upper half of the climb follows an inside corner to the top of the dark rock. At the time of this entry the anchor consisted of a tat thread through that left much to be desired. A better option is finishing at the two bolt anchor at the top of Kuymak.

Location Jane is located 10 meters right of a large pine tree at the base of the cliff above the picnic area gazebos. Follow a prominent crack on this portion of cliff.

Protection Gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor

Love and Trust is a wonderful traditional route that follows a prominent right trending crack through the lighter colored face. Brake left on the upper 1/3 of the route to reach a anchor shared with Canavar.

Location Love and Trust is located 5 meters right of the two large pine trees growing at the base of the cliff that mark the start of the sector. Follow a prominent right trending crack.

Protection Trad to 2", 2 bolt anchor

Kulplu Beygir is a mediocre traditional route. Start on a hard to protect, over hanging section of dirty rock but has the potential to clean up into a half decent sequence. Continue on moderate climbing up an excellent crack system that provides many gear opportunities and holds to form an enjoyable staircase to the anchor shares with Covid61 and Hagi Sophia.

(graded in the 2018 mini guide as a 5+ , inconsistent with the area)

Location Kulplu Beygir is located 20 meters right of the two large pine trees growing at the base of the cliff that mark the start of the sector.

Protection Gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor

Şahinkaya is made up of a wonderful face of buckets and jugs. Start with an awkward high step on good holds and continue up the extremely featured face of slightly less than vertical yet incredibly high-quality rock. Stay slightly left of a light colored over hanging face and continue to an anchor that is clearly visible from the ground.

Location Şahinkayais located 23 meters right of the two large pine trees growing at the base of the cliff that mark the start of the sector.

Protection 13 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Akçaabat Helvasıis a wonderful traditional line if you've got you're wits about you. Follow a left trending crack that open to a 90-degree inside corner. Halfway through the route you will encounter an intermediate anchor on your right that serves as the finish to Boyan. The second half of the route is a little more run out and requires larger gear than the lower section. Stem, jam and face climb your way to the anchor that is shared with Gülali, on the left wall.

Location Akçaabat Helvası located 32 meters right of the two large pine trees growing at the base of the cliff that mark the start of the crag. Look for the prominent inside corner crack feature.

Protection Trad, 2 bolt anchor

Bukalemun is a 15 meter jug haul up steep terrain. Start by following a vertical crack next to a tree to a high first bolt. Climb over a steep section of rock even with the tree tops before the angle mellows out. Scramble to a anchor located in the bulge 15 meters above the ground or continue on the extension if you want more of a challenge.

Bukalemun is a 15 meter jug haul up steep terrain. Start by following a vertical crack next to a tree to a high first bolt. Climb over a steep section of rock even with the tree tops before the angle mellows out. Scramble to a anchor located in the bulge 15 meters above the ground or continue on the extension if you want more of a challenge.

Üç Bant follows a nice inside corner crack system for 10 meters before utilizing some nice features on your left to protect the small roof. Continue passed a ledge and one final bulge sequence before arriving at the anchor.

Location Üç Bant follows a nice inside corner crack system for 10 meters before utilizing some nice features on your left to protect the small roof. Continue passed a ledge and one final bulge sequence before arriving at the anchor.

Location Üç Bant is located at the upper left side of the crag above the gazebos. You will be climbing an inside corner crack directly underneath the left of two falcon heads that stick out from top of the wall, if you use a little imagination.

Protection Gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor

Love and Trust is a wonderful traditional route that follows a prominent right trending crack through the lighter colored face. Brake left on the upper 1/3 of the route to reach a anchor shared with Canavar.

Location Love and Trust is located 5 meters right of the two large pine trees growing at the base of the cliff that mark the start of the sector. Follow a prominent right trending crack.

Protection Trad to 2", 2 bolt anchor

Kulplu Beygir is a mediocre traditional route. Start on a hard to protect, over hanging section of dirty rock but has the potential to clean up into a half decent sequence. Continue on moderate climbing up an excellent crack system that provides many gear opportunities and holds to form an enjoyable staircase to the anchor shares with Covid61 and Hagi Sophia.

(graded in the 2018 mini guide as a 5+ , inconsistent with the area)

Location Kulplu Beygir is located 20 meters right of the two large pine trees growing at the base of the cliff that mark the start of the sector.

Protection Gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor

Şahinkaya is made up of a wonderful face of buckets and jugs. Start with an awkward high step on good holds and continue up the extremely featured face of slightly less than vertical yet incredibly high-quality rock. Stay slightly left of a light colored over hanging face and continue to an anchor that is clearly visible from the ground.

Location Şahinkayais located 23 meters right of the two large pine trees growing at the base of the cliff that mark the start of the sector.

Protection 13 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Akçaabat Helvası is a wonderful traditional line if you've got you're wits about you. Follow a left trending crack that open to a 90-degree inside corner. Halfway through the route you will encounter an intermediate anchor on your right that serves as the finish to Boyan. The second half of the route is a little more run out and requires larger gear than the lower section. Stem, jam and face climb your way to the anchor that is shared with Gülali, on the left wall.

Location Akçaabat Helvası located 32 meters right of the two large pine trees growing at the base of the cliff that mark the start of the crag. Look for the prominent inside corner crack feature.

Protection Trad, 2 bolt anchor

Edi is a short yet surprisingly enjoyable moderate route on very positive holds. Climb up solid gray rock that gets progressively steeper as the holds get progressively larger. Enjoy a couple hero moves on giant jugs to clip the anchor at the lip of a small overhang.

Location Edi is located 26 meters right of the prominent inside corner crack that marks the beginning of the sector. It also starts 9 meter right of the first pine tree growing at the base of the cliff.

#1, (16), 35m, Mantle the overhanging conglomerate choss or do the sensible thing and walk around the ledge above the run out corner and overhang to gain pocketed slab. Crux. Move up to ledge and poorly-protected belay. #2, (12), 25m. Traverse left into chossy gully trending right toward belay at wide-trunked jetroufah. #3, 10, 30m. Up and left to crack splitting jagged slab to belay amopngst bottle trees. #4, 30m, Scramble up

Up the corner to belay on Dragon's Blood Tree than out onto face (run-out) to top out and belay on another DB tree.