Routes in Middle East for selected grade

A nice first lead climb. When toproping be sure to place a directional to avoid the climber swinging into the face on the right.

Shares anchors with 'Ith Feeling'.

Located at the opposite wall in the back part of the canyon, left of 'Çok Güzel'.

(please move to the right location) This is the first climb you come to. Should be #1, before Mermaid.

Tricky start requiring good footwork.

#bolt_type_glue_in

#bolt_type_glue_in

Timing: Allow for a long day, more if you get lost, which you probably might, more if you want to take it easy and have a break or two. If you are a super-duper mountain guide then perhaps the guide book time of 3-4 hours is achievable.

Sun / Temperature: In August it was bearable with shady belays, but starting in the dark could help.

Gear: Expect rope drag, Cams up to Camalot 3. Some belay stations are bolted. The abseil from the plateau (Hammads ridge) back down to the traverse is about 50m.

Route

• From the village head towards Jebel Rum and take the steps up to Lawrence’s well. Turn right in the minty area and head up the gully.
• After passing between large boulders, towards the top of the gully on the right hand side there will be a rock ramp heading up but facing down the gully (grade 3/4). Someone has also scratched an arrow into the face at the bottom. (Between 40 mins and 1 hour from the village.)

• Traverse the ledge and scramble up

  1. f5- large diagonal crack in the wall, 50m.
• From the shelf traverse a little bit to the right and then head up the plateau (Hammads ridge),look out for a repel station on your right as you climb.
• On the plateau, head left
• find a straight, long and narrow walled chimney/gully that heads to the great siq floor and descend.
• Go east through the great siq with a rappel and two short problems, 2nd being about f5 6m and unprotectable.

• After the 2nd problem you will be at the base of the eye (3 - 4 hours from the village).

  1. f5- wide crack about 50m.

  2. 50m, f5- starts with a tricky chimney

  3. 40m f4 climb the ramp

  4. traverse across to the base of the eye, f3.

  5. Pitch 5 of the main route, climb the slab (and or crack / chimney), in the guide book it is f3 however there are some very tricky sections, with maybe the hardest move of the route, 40m. You are now in the eye.

Descent.

Reverse route about 6 repels to the base, back up through the siq and back up the chimney to hammads ridge. Two options exist from here.

Descent alt. Alternative abseil descent, down jebel rum east face and route mumkin. Somewhat complicated and easy to make mistakes. - 50m From the eye rap diagonally back to below the start of the final pitch. - 25m, hidden. - 50m, heading more east to big ledge at the side of the big black slab - 50m, down big black slab - 50m, - 15m, traversing climbers right, don't go down the gully. - Easy walk through sand to Mumkin abseils.

For more details see http://kbecan.blogspot.com/2014/02/welcome-to-jordan.html

Topo: Howard guidebook #57.

anchor replaced with glue-in bolts , maillon and/or connecting cord might be missing

A couple of juggy moves access the nice slab.

Yet another nice route.

Last route on the right, starting just below the big block that separates 'Top Alani' from 'Koridor'. New route, name and grade unknown.

Follow the line of bolts up a slab to a ledge. traverse the ledge left, ignoring the bolts up and right, then climb up to the anchors...

#bolt_type_glue_in

Fun thin pockets at the start into a crack system to a fantastic finish.

Şahinkaya is made up of a wonderful face of buckets and jugs. Start with an awkward high step on good holds and continue up the extremely featured face of slightly less than vertical yet incredibly high-quality rock. Stay slightly left of a light colored over hanging face and continue to an anchor that is clearly visible from the ground.

Location Şahinkayais located 23 meters right of the two large pine trees growing at the base of the cliff that mark the start of the sector.

Protection 13 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Jane is a spectacular traditional route that follows a very featured crack that trends left for the first 10 meters of the route and passes two small ledges. The upper half of the climb follows an inside corner to the top of the dark rock. At the time of this entry the anchor consisted of a tat thread through that left much to be desired. A better option is finishing at the two bolt anchor at the top of Kuymak.

Location Jane is located 10 meters right of a large pine tree at the base of the cliff above the picnic area gazebos. Follow a prominent crack on this portion of cliff.

Protection Gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor

Jane is a spectacular traditional route that follows a very featured crack that trends left for the first 10 meters of the route and passes two small ledges. The upper half of the climb follows an inside corner to the top of the dark rock. At the time of this entry the anchor consisted of a tat thread through that left much to be desired. A better option is finishing at the two bolt anchor at the top of Kuymak.

Location Jane is located 10 meters right of a large pine tree at the base of the cliff above the picnic area gazebos. Follow a prominent crack on this portion of cliff.

Protection Gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor

The right side of the face to a anchor hidden on the right over the final bulge - nice.

A classic and many peoples first outdoor climb. Climb the left side of the triangle. You may find it to be hard for the grade if you are unfamiliar with stemming and jamming. Most stem/chimney inside the wide crack on the left, but it's also possible to stick to the arete on the right, keeps the grade the same.

Soft 5a. Watch for rope rubbing after the third clip.

Tricky move quarter of the way up leads to easier climbing above. Take care with rope drag at the top.

Good warm-up.

Probably historical route, does not exist

The left most route

Bouldery start leads to easy but fun movement in a corner with stemming and good edges and jugs.