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Bimal Nagar

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 4
  • Ascents: 9
  • Aka: Chun Pahara
  • Aka: Bandipur

Access: Risk of Destruction due to Highway Expansion?

Article 02/2022.

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Created about two years ago

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Summary

Bimalnagar rock climbing site is located away from Kathmandu about 140km southwest in Nepal. It takes about 5hrs drive to reach Bimalganar on the way to Pokhara. It has more than 30 climbing routes from grade 5a to 8a+ including 4-multi-pitch on the natural rock. Some of the climbing routes are with a height of 55m. The routes are bolted for sport climbing with bolted anchors at the top of each route.

Description

Morning shade, with some afternoon sun. Amazing view of the Annapurnas, as well as the river below the cliffs. As for crowds, the only crowds were children watching in awe as we climbed. The area is a bit of a ghost town, left over from its glory days of attracting tourists to a large nearby cave (which is supposed to also be pretty cool).

The rock is sharp, pocketed, mostly low-angle limestone, with a few overhanging routes mixed in. Rock quality seemed pretty good, with several single and multi pitch sport options. All bolted responsibly, with great cement belay areas and stairs. About 10 routes just above the stairs, and a separate section off to the left with a few more (maybe the gems of the area?).

Small town, limited lodging/food options. Cold beer available in the winter or when electricity is working.

More beta is available from Hardcore Nepal Trekking Company (Thamel, Kathmandu), or Adrenaline Rush Whitewater Rafting Company (Lakeside, Pokhara).

Pictures. Picture. Video. Video.

Article.

Approach

If you are traveling by road between Kathmandu and Pokhara, and want to check this out on the way, it is 59km southeast of Pokhara, or about 140km northwest of Kathmandu. This sounds vague, but there's only one road, so if your bus driver knows where to stop, it's easy to find. The access point is directly across the road from "Helen and Rocky Land," a hotel/restaurant that we do not recommend. Walk 1 minute up the steps to the obvious cliff.

A five-hour bus drive from Kathmandu will take you to this site which is located in the Kathmandu-Pokhara route.

History

History timeline chart

The rock was set up in 2006 by mountain guides Prem Gurung and friends in memory of Iman Grung, a mountaineer, instructor and adventurer who lost his life after being buried in an avalanche at Kang Garu in the Nar Phu valley in the Annapurna region. Since then, the rock has been a boon to anyone who is involved in mountaineering or adventure sport.

Its popularity rose in the 2010s after various mountaineering organisations started to train people there while a few also held competitions there.

Routes

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Grade Route

Polished.

Two bolts at the anchor, not connected, only one carabiner.

Video.

FA: Jasone Wilsone, 2014

You can add the second pitch, connected anchor with two carabiners.

Nomen est omen.

According to locals with 8a+ the hardest route of Nepal is here.

Solid bolts. Begins with a small off width and a scramble up to a corner roof problem. Make it up over that and then you continue trending left on an over hang with plenty of small crumbly bits and smooth footings, isn't limestone a challenge. Get up and over the second roof problem and you've busted the crux. Now just make it out as far left as possible to clip the chains under the vines.

Approach: Instead of going into the fenced in area, continue to walk away from the village toward the rest of the wall. You will pass two new sport climbs on the corner by the fence and then move in under the overhanging wall. In the center of this wall is the only bolted climb as of now... the cobra.

It’s two pitches. The first is 6a with two not connected bolts and the second pitch 5c with a connected anchor, but if you climb both pitches in once you have a heavy friction.

In the upper section the option to climb to "#13 Rockstar".

Right variation.

Unknown. Total length bottom to top 55m.

Start off moving up to a left hand shelf, a jug and continue to some sharp pockets above. Smear and crimp until you make it to the top for some good jams to make the last clip ...or reach up over to find more options.

Approach: You can find this route in the caged in area on the top platform between the left trending crack and a small overhang at the base of the cliff.

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