Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 13th Oct 2018 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Bumbly's Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★ Speedy Gonzales | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This felt pretty hard for the grade. Some sneaky knee bars and lots of bridging
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21 | ★ El Rayo-X | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Felt easier than the 19 and 20s....
|
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Thu 11th Oct 2018 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Rohans Arete | 28m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lovely climbing. If I didn’t have a toothache today and was enjoying myself more, I may have given it classic
|
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Wed 10th Oct 2018 - Kinloch | ||||||
Kinloch Crag (K1) CLOSED | ||||||
20 | ★★ Electric Wizard | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Excellent rock and interesting moves between pockets
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14 | ★ Waiting For The Ant | 7m, 3 | Average | |||
Getting used to the rock, it looks slippery
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Sat 6th Oct 2018 - Waipari | ||||||
Bete Noire Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Ignimbrite | 20m, 7 | Don't Bother | |||
Climbs essentially the same as the crack, it should be further right and go up the groove and it might be ok
|
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19 | ★ The Exerstential Purple Thunderbolt | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
A bit of crack climbing up high, hard start on sore fingers
|
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19 | ★ Streetwise | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Stout warm up due to pocket finding trouble
|
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Sat 6th Oct 2018 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
16 | ★ Serife | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really liked this for the grade
|
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17 | ★ Climatic Conclusion | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★★ Climatic Extension | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The finish makes the climb, though I didn’t find the start that easy
|
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17 | ★ Thunder Blaster | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Nice easy jugging with a steeper finish
|
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18 | ★ Power Pack | 8m, 3 | Don't Bother | |||
Dirty and short
|
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19 | ★ Total Energy | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Nice, but fairly soft grade
|
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Fri 5th Oct 2018 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
17 | ★★ Girls, Girls, Girls | 20m, 7 | Average | |||
This was the first one we got on, generic pocket pulling
|
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16 | ★ The Grim Reamer | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Had a steep groove to add interest
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16 | ★★ Fun Bags | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Steep fun juggy pockets
|
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17 | ★★ Virgin On Easy | 23m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice positions, almost like tufa climbing instead of tuff climbing
|
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20 18 | ★★ Reamed By Percentage | 24m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
From under the roof I went up left side and then back over nose rather than bailing into the 17. Felt substantially harder than 18 but was very fun
|
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Thu 4th Oct 2018 - Waipari | ||||||
Bete Noire Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Volcanic | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really liked this, steep, face and slab styles
|
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Sun 3rd Apr 2016 - Hanging Rock | ||||||
West End | ||||||
15 | ★★ Speed King | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Quite hard getting established on this if short
|
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Sat 2nd Apr 2016 - Motatapu Valley | ||||||
Roadside Area Al Cove | ||||||
23 22 | ★★ Ferocious Weasel | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Not too hard
|
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23 | ★★ Roche Moutonnee | 16m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great novelty roof with per madras
|
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20 | ★ Cunning Linguistics | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I made the top roof harder than needed
|
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22 | ★★ The Colonel's Secret | 16m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
The draws were on to below crux. Felt pretty slippery, I appreciated the hand jams
|
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Thu 31st Mar 2016 - Motatapu Valley | ||||||
Riverside Main Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ You Crack Me Up | 25m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Feels easier than 20 now that you don't need to place gear
|
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Thu 31st Mar 2016 - Motatapu Valley | ||||||
Riverside Kerfuffle Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Te Whanau | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some time in the past, Rpt warm up today. Hard start
|
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17 | ★ Terrain Spotting | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Some time in the past
|
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17 | ★ Get Kerfuffled | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Sometime maybe 2010.
|
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Wed 30th Mar 2016 - The Chasm | ||||||
22 | ★ Granite Gringo | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rock not as nice as at right hand end, some tricky moves
|
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Tue 29th Mar 2016 - Castledowns | ||||||
Bunny Gully | ||||||
17 | ★ Johnny Walker Wisdom | 22m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
A hidden hold under the matagouri
|
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Wed 23rd Mar 2016 - Mapoutahi | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Greek Gift 2 | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Feels quite airy
|
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20 | ★ Like a Lover Scorned | 25m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Some interesting arête moves if the sidepulls out of reach
|
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Wed 23rd Mar 2016 - Mapoutahi | ||||||
Eldorado Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Jospe/Carr Route (When Yuppies Go to Hell) | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Some moments of interesting climbing up groove
|
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Sun 20th Mar 2016 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
The Caves | ||||||
18 | ★ Purple haze | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Some nice jugs then easy run out top
|
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Sun 12th May 2013 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
Chunderosa Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★ School Bus Route | 35m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Its only 19/20. LOts of good pocket pulling
|
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Sun 12th May 2013 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
Flying Cow Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★ Pani Para Chha | 15m, 9 | Average | |||
Better than appearances
|
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Sun 12th May 2013 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
Chunderosa Buttress | ||||||
21 20 | ★★ Hotter than a Hot Thing (Hotter Then a Hot Thing) | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Is 21 in guide on line
|
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18 | ★★ Hannah Louise | 30m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
The finish makes this route
|
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20 19/20 | ★★ Ball and Chain | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
And off to the airport
|
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Sun 12th May 2013 - Bayley Road | ||||||
River Wall | ||||||
19 | Sharpe Arete | 12m, 3 | Average | |||
Easy for grade
|
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Sun 12th May 2013 - Mangaokewa | ||||||
The Colosseum | ||||||
15 | ★★ French Ethics | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Ok for grade
|
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20 | ★ Trojan Kat | 16m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rock a bit average
|
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20 | Diamond in the Rough | 20m, 5 | Crap | |||
The 4th bolt missing. Bailed onto pr
|
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17 | ★ Dogamatrix | 20m, 5 | Average | |||
It is pouring. It's dry.....
|
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21 | ★★ When Cavers go Climbing | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
A bit contrived
|
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Tue 7th May 2013 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Millenium Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Sun Dried Tomatoes | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Had some preplaced long draws
|
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Tue 7th May 2013 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Australia face) | ||||||
17 | ★ Lazy Ass Aucklanders! (Route to left of mba) | 16m, 5 | Average | |||
The 10th route of the day
|
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21 | ★★ Lunar Leopard | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Gymnastic start
|
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Tue 7th May 2013 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Bring Your Daughter Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Mister Daddy Long Legs | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Found start hardest without first bolt clipped
|
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Tue 7th May 2013 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
18 | ★ Roadweary | 20m, 9 | Average | |||
16 | ★ Bonne Anne (Bonne Annee) | 20m, 7 | Average | |||
20 | ★★★ Monsterpiece Theatre | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★★ Safe Playing | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 17th Sep 2012 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Sunnyside | ||||||
19 | ★ Hap Hazard | 19m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Shame about the ledge.
|
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Fri 14th Sep 2012 - Mount Iron | ||||||
Ironside | ||||||
20 | A Steep Introduction | 15m, 6 | Average | |||
A bit escapable
|
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Sun 10th Jan 2010 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Whale Watching | ||||||
24 | ★★ 10 Boy Scouts | 20m, 8 | Average | |||
kiwis cant crimp
|
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23 | ★★ Hobo Humping Slobo Babe | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
tricky to chose the right crimp
|
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Sun 10th Jan 2010 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Tombstone Boulders The Tombstone | ||||||
21 20 | ★★ Disco Inferno | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
arete humping
|
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17 18 | ★ Rusty Pins | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
tricky in places
|
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Sun 3rd Jan 2010 - Babylon | ||||||
Left Hand Wall | ||||||
17 26 | ★★ The Obvious Weakness (The Obvious weakness Pitch 1) | 36m | ★ Good | |||
It was dry in the rain
|
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Wed 30th Dec 2009 - Wye Creek | ||||||
South Side Main Wall | ||||||
22 | ★ No Holds Barred | 27m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Rather well spaced bolts. A full head trip!
|
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Mon 28th Dec 2009 - Wye Creek | ||||||
North Side Eweniverse Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Vas-y Mollo (Easy Tiger (vas-y-mollo)) | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
not very memorable
|
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22 | ★ Epoxy Passion | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
some OK moments. Hard mantle
|
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Mon 12th Oct 2009 - Chinaman's Bluff | ||||||
Ravages Area | ||||||
22 21 | ★★ Hard Sun | 82m, 31 | ★ Good | |||
Great cleaning effort. Harder than 21
|
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Sun 11th Oct 2009 - Wye Creek | ||||||
North Side Eweniverse Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Tais-toi! | 22m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
A bit of a struggle
|
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Mon 31st Mar 2008 - Motatapu Valley | ||||||
Riverside Beginner’s Slab | ||||||
19 | ★ Cryptology | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
OK warm up
|
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Sat 29th Mar 2008 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
The Main Cliff | ||||||
17 | ★★ Headbangers Arete | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 28th Mar 2008 - Wye Creek | ||||||
South Side Main Wall | ||||||
17 18 | ★ Up the Creek (Up the River) | 30m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Good the first time round, but would get tedious after a while.
|
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19 20 | ★★ Smellie Crack | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rather tricky for the grade.
|
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Fri 28th Mar 2008 - Wye Creek | ||||||
North Side Black Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Matt's Joke | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Short roof, then more sustained than it looked.
|
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Fri 28th Mar 2008 - Wye Creek | ||||||
South Side Main Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Dream Thing | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sweet roof!
|
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Sat 22nd Mar 2008 - The Chasm | ||||||
18 20 | ★★ Another One (MT to CN belay RIGHT) | 15m, 6 | Average | |||
A few weird slimy traverse moves.
|
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18 20 | ★★ Another One (White rope to CN Belay) | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
The best stint of grade18 sports climbing ever. Now I want to do the top pitch
|
||||||
19 17 | ★ Unnamed 17 (Mainly Tramping) | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Nice recent addition and a better way onto the wall than the tree.
|
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Wed 19th Mar 2008 - Gorge Road | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Dog in Town | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
The move over the roof is nice I suppose.
|
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Mon 17th Mar 2008 - Paynes Ford | ||||||
Globe Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Electricorp Production | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Is the flowstone out? Nice pocket!
|
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Sun 16th Mar 2008 - Pōhara | ||||||
Cathedral Rock | ||||||
19 18 | ★★ Stella Blue | 30m, 10 | Average | |||
Couldnt really get into this one, probably knowing it was the scene of a tragedy.
|
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18 | ★★ Ambrosia | 26m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Felt kinda stout at the second bolt.
|
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Sun 16th Mar 2008 - Paynes Ford | ||||||
Fish Wall/Rhinoceros Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Gobble, Gobble, Yum Yum | ★★ Very Good | ||||
SUper novelty fun. Just like Thailand!
|
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Fri 14th Mar 2008 - Paynes Ford | ||||||
Stone Symposium Wall | ||||||
20 21 | ★★ Jimmy The Torn Piece of Paper (Jimmy...) | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
the rebolted direct start to Ranger. Nails!
|
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21 | ★★★ R for Ranger, D for Danger | 27m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some awesome parts, and rather scary
|
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Sun 9th Mar 2008 - Motatapu Valley | ||||||
Roadside Area Roadside Attraction | ||||||
22 | ★★ Everything but the Formalities | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Worth the approach up the gungy ramp
|
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14 | Roadside Rage | 8m, 3 | Don't Bother | |||
Warming up
|
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Sat 8th Mar 2008 - Motatapu Valley | ||||||
Riverside Garden Bar | ||||||
23 | ★★ Who the Fuck is Nick Cradock? (Who the Fuck is Nick Craddock?) | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
nice reachy moves. Probably only 22, but its my style!
|
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Sat 8th Mar 2008 - Diamond Lake | ||||||
Pencil Dick Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Stick It In | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Would be classic if it wasnt bolted. FIngers to hands.
|
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Fri 7th Mar 2008 - Wye Creek | ||||||
South Side Main Wall | ||||||
17 18 | ★★ About Time | 30m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
Novelty climbing. Weird swirling rock.
|
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16 | ★★★ The Mission | 28m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
the start doesnt flow. 3 star view though.
|
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18 | ★★ Lucalucki | 32m, 13 | Average | |||
Weird bolting.
|
||||||
Wed 5th Mar 2008 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Warm Leatharête | ||||||
18 19 | ★★ Quick Fix | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Quite pumpy
|
||||||
Wed 5th Mar 2008 - Diamond Lake | ||||||
Hotline Corner | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Fuckity Fuck Fuck | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Guide book says 6 BR- it has 12!
|
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Wed 5th Mar 2008 - Motatapu Valley | ||||||
Roadside Area Roadside Attraction | ||||||
21 | ★ I Need a Pie | 17m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Scary bolting
|
||||||
Wed 5th Mar 2008 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Warm Leatharête | ||||||
19 18 | ★★ Honey I Bolted The Crack | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Hmm, could well be done on gear
|
||||||
Tue 4th Mar 2008 - Diamond Lake | ||||||
Sharon Stone | ||||||
25 | ★ Wind Me Up (Need to Unwind Direct Finish) | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
The guide books crap- but hey I tried hard cos I thought I was on a 23!
|
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Sat 30th Dec 2006 - Motatapu Valley | ||||||
Riverside Beginner’s Slab | ||||||
16 | Infinite Inveigling (infinite inviegeling) | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
Fri 31st Mar 2006 - Motatapu Valley | ||||||
Riverside Beginner’s Slab | ||||||
14 | ★ Right Ascension | 10m, 4 | ||||
16 | ★ Generation X | 10m, 3 | ||||
15 14 | ★ Occupational Therapy | 10m, 4 | ||||
15 | ★ Super Size Me | 10m, 4 | ||||
Wed 2nd Feb 2005 - Twin Stream | ||||||
Half Moon Slab | ||||||
17 | ★★ Moon Rise | 80m | ★★★ Classic | |||
first taste of TS perfection. An 80m intricate slab. Best ¨16¨Ive ever done
|