Routes in New Zealand for selected grade

1. To reach the next route head left along the track past some steep faces (good boulder traverse) to a large left leaning dihedral. This is the Dihedral Wall, and is easy to spot from the carpark. Climb easily up to the base of a shallow groove a few feet left of the dihedral. Head up the groove past a fixed nut, traversing left at the top of a ledge to two bolts. A bit run out. From here there are two options for continuing. Pitch

2. From the two bolts head right to the crack (look for an old wooden peg from the original attempt). Step right and follow a series of underclings (1½ cam) and scoops to a right tending ramp (bolt and 3 cam), then up to chain belay. The bolts were added by Guy White, Chris North and Emily Lane in 1996, thinking they were doing a

1. Down at the track walk left for a few metres where easy rock can be scrambled up to reach the same grassy bank as for the end of the first pitch of Green Eggs and Ham. Look for a dirty vertical crack. This is the start. Climb the crack to the cave. The original ascent used aid, but the pitch has since been freed. Scramble up and left along the tree covered ledge past steep walls until a line of least resistance becomes apparent.

2. Head up, right and up again through broken ground till the top is reached. Can be broken into two pitches to avoid rope drag. A pleasant enough climb, all on natural pro.

Originally two pitches; 1st pitch bolted and 2nd trad.

The climb is now three pitches with bolts all the way to the top.

First bolt on second pitch hanging halfway out of the wall.

Down and 20m left of Full Moon Fantasy is a prominent angled groove. Climb the groove and at the top, move left into a shallow depression (crux). Climb the depression to a bulging wall, make a difficult move right round the arete and up to the second bulging wall. Climb the thin crack in the wall to finish at a bolt on Trinity Slaba. Not a lot of pro.

Easy chimney to first bolt. Thought provoking moves take you right past another bolt and around the corner to a nice arete. Go up the slab past a rusted bolt, a couple good bolts and a peg.

Two options to belay: chains or newer glue-ins a little to the right.

Great climb through a variety of holds. Shares anchor with White Anglo Saxon Protestant.

Climb the pointy flake that leads up to the pocketed wall above, the Crux is getting established on this. There are a few good holds but many are slopers and watch out for the moss and lichen that really make you feel you're climbing in a Jungle.

On the microwave looking boulder 100m south of The Point. Sit start. Use the juggy arête out left and the crack out right to work your way up. Finish up and left.

Easily up to the overhanging bulge, hump and bump your way over the bulge and continue to the anchors.

Anchor hangers now have rings so you can climb and then abseil without walking off.

Follow the drill hole to reach the ledge at top. The anchor shared among these routes is some meters back from the edge.

Up the drill hole to ledge, then move right and climb the buttress.

Head up a thinning crack then step across right to access another thin crack. Possible earlier FA unknown.

The controversial and contrived direct finish on the slabby face has been chopped.

Technical and interesting climbing leads to an easier top.

Right facing corner crack from hand to fist to offwidth.

Start up crack to the right of the slab face. First piece can be placed from the ground, second piece from first stable stance . Then go left up the slab face via bolt to place piece in horizontal crack to second bolt and DBC anchor finish.

Follow the obvious flared crack to the left of slab wall. Leads to easy run out scramble. limited protection once you get to the scramble. Double chain anchor.

Start in the steep finger crack directly above the fence. Continue climbing straight up, keeping left of the large gorse bush, then traverse right at the top to the anchor set up by Christian Gamst.

Up the arete and buttress to the blast hole, and then jive and reach. Don't stray onto the routes to the right and left. Use the belay station for "Dochawiyogicojalime"

Up the groove as for Zag, finish right past two bolts to the anchor of 'I Like Arêtes and I Cannot Lie'.

First bolt installed by unknown, climbed to anchors of dochawi by Mario Hernandez, later extended by running out to the top by Phil Higgins and Dave Ackery, Before finally having an extra bolt and anchors installed. You figure out who the FA is.

Climb the prominent arete with some technical moves as you go. Don't step in from the right above the first bolt for full value. Nice platform for belaying from the top.

Start to the left of "My Foot Slipped". Climb the steep crack on the left side of the pillar. Continue directly up for a few meters then step left onto a ledge below a smooth concave face. Climb a few moves up the left side of the face to reach the handrail then traverse right just above the bolt to the nose.

Use the thin crack and pockets up the steep face then straight through the overhang. Once through the overhang trending left and up a steep corner to the anchor. Initially climbed as a dry tooling route at grade M7, later free climbed.

Solo up the easy ledges to the first bolt then stay on the face with the handy crack on your left.

Find the secret blast hole for an easy push to the finish.

Climb the centre of the slab following the crack and bolts, lots of micro ledges for fingers and toes. Getting off it is challenging and then some fun slab climbing to finish with some hidden jugs if you can find them.

Climb the corner between Carpe Diem & Tuatara on gear placed in the crack. Continue up Tuatara climbing the smooth face either to the right or left of top bolt.

Just right of 'MV6' and just left of 'Carpe Diem' there is a 5m high buttress that looks like a Tuatara clinging to the crag. Climb the centre of the buttress to its top. Continue up until level with an undercut rounded face on the right with a drill hole down its bottom half. Step onto the face and move delicately up two metres. Continue up the steep face above to the belay.

Climb the large face to the left of The South Face, tricky start leads onto easy climbing up the ledges.

Fun and the start is easier than it looks once you find the holds.

Up the buttress to the chain then negotiate the roof and finish up the slab.

The curving crack and slab originally climbed on gear. Protection may be tricky around the middle.

Accidentally retrobolted. Can now be climbed as sport/trad.

Start up between 'The Whimsical West' and 'Rock Climb This You Bastards'. Follow the line of the bolts, keeping close to them for the best climbing.

3m left of Arachnid. Two bolt belay. Stay on the shield headwall, some holds on the left edge. Avoid the poor rock of to the right.

Still alot of debris either side please be careful. start on the face and position yourself through the rails, mantle and then fight the pump to the top.

would be a crag classic maybe if it were slightly cleaner

Start slightly right of the shrub in the middle of the waterfall face under the guano, work your way straight up on small edges to the bulge, then proceed directly up.

First few meters offers no opportunity for protection, but provides enjoyable and delicate climbing. Placements improve as you get higher, and the big haul over the overhang and bulge is well protected, leading to easy climbing above, topping out on DBA. Look out for the hidden jugs and edges on top of the bulge.

Unsure if this variation has been climbed before, but thought I'd share.

Climb the low arete to reach the overhanging finger crack, continue up this to the ledge. Watch out for loose rock below the anchor. Once graded 20, this is now a fairly pumpy 18. Another anagram...

An awkward mantle leads to easier climbing up the groove and crack.

Climb direct to the Moral Dilemma ledge or traverse in from the start of Morning Glory Eliminate (shown), step right to the next ledge, then up and left to the ramp leading to the top groove of Moral Dilemma.

Climb the deep groove to good stances, then straight up and exit through the gap between the blocks at top.

The deep black V groove. Dalrymple is Rick McGregor's middle name...

Climb the arete with 2 bolts between Koruba and Nutcracker, without using the cracks either side.

Boulder direct to the ledge, or traverse in from the left (16). Then up the blocky groove and exit to a chain hidden in the bushes above. Looks easy but the top can be tricky and this is perhaps not ideal as your first lead on gear at the long side if you are not solid at the grade.

Either: traverse in to the ledge from the right (16, see start of Smash And Grab), climb the right-hand groove (17, see start of Rebuilding Oscar), climb the face (17, shown) or climb the left-hand groove (21). From the ledge bridge up the main groove, past a drill hole (a triple sling will protect this nicely), and over the blocks at the top.

Climb the right-hand start of Revenge Of The Lawn until you can traverse right to the first ledge of Kaloo Kalay. Climb any of the grooves to the right of that to reach the next set of ledges, then continue right and up to the ledge at the top of Principles Of Lust. Move up and across the right-leaning slab with 1 old bolt, then traverse carefully across the broken scoria at top, finishing at the Soliloquy anchor. Give it a clean on the way. Phew. Double ropes highly recommended.

Climb the initial groove of Kaloo Kalay, then step right and up the right-hand groove above. Finish up left-leaning ramps above. Feel free to clean it.

Climb the crack past a flare to a broken ledge (crux), then up past another to the top of the large flake, finishing rightwards through a notch. A well protected classic - gym climbers note it helps if you can jam!

The short corner further right of Badfinger, one stage higher up the ledges. This now has an electrical control pipe for the field sprinklers running down it, and is bound to be dirty and overgrown. If you really must climb it, be very careful not to damage the pipe. The first ascent is contested.

Climb the arete and face. The cracks either side are out. Take a cam or tricam to protect the break below the top block, or just run it out.

Bridge up the middle between Gog and Magog with an exciting top-out through the overhang. Don't wimp out left or right.

Swing into the drill hole from the right, then up the crack and horizontal breaks. Usually very dirty at the top. Grade 23 if climbed direct, without the use of Gamgee's Groove ledge. There was a grade 21 direct using the thin crack on the left, but that now has a pipe covered with concrete down it.

Strong and balancy through the crux sequence, with a decent low wire then two very dubious old pitons as protection. There is more gear available though.

Harder than it looks. Make an off balance move into the middle of the groove and out to the arete, protected by a quite small nut.

The seaward rib of the big arch, start up a wide crack to the left of the rib. Move right onto the ledge at half height to a thin crack on the face.

The outside edge of ‘The Arch' - a must do.

If the tide is out you can start at the very base of the edge, otherwise step off the block to the right and traverse to the edge and the first bolt. The climb goes straight up the edge, with a slight detour to the right at the third bolt. Double bolt belay.

Just left of the first edge to the right of ‘The Arch’. Clip the bolt at the bottom of the edge and immediately move left to easier climbing. Climb just to the left of the next two bolts then step left to take some support on ‘The Arch’. The fifth bolt is to the left on ‘The Arch’. Climb up the left wall to the wide crack, the sixth bolt and a little further on and further to a double bolt belay to the right.

Climb the large crack with large chock stone to the right of "Fight or Slight", follow the line of weakness to the large offwidth on the right. Get into the crack, you'll need a #6 or big bro to protect the large offwidth and watch for loose chock stones. Shortly after the chockstones in the off width crack exit on the left side of the crack to the platform by the anchors of Fight or Slight.

Climb the short offwidth to the right of the gully, then head right, up the hanging corner to gain a large ledge. Beware of loose rock. Continue up the offwidth with a chockstone above, finish to the right of the arete. There are rap chains behind the large blocks.

Wondered how no-one had climbed this beautiful looking crack up to the obvious anchors. Discovered when I needed my 8, then my 6, then bumped my 8 up higher. Crux is getting up and over the chock stone, had a good attempt at lifting and moving it on the descent, no movement. Would be a 16 without the crux, so if the chock stone goes may be easier.

The straight crack, hardest towards the top.

Climb the crack to the overhang at 3m. Pull through and into the upper crack, stepping at the top to easier ground.

On the sea ward end of the point. Climb the left end of the rib pulling over the overhang on good but brittle holds. Continue up the steep wall to an awkward ledge. Climb the overhang above and easily to the top.

The arête and the ‘fang’ at half height. Wet at high tide. DBC belay.

The crack through the pea pod. Belay as for Man From Atlantis.

Start heading up The Bounding Man then traverse left through obvious crack line to the finish of Sam Bullock.

Starts from the high boulder ledge up the right leaning crack to the right of 'Puffin'. Place some smallish cams and then sling the pinnacle before heading up the crack. Exit the crack and traverse left to the anchors of Puffin. First climbed after a big night drinking Roaring Meg.

On the large block - juggy and steep.

Climb the arête and up over the bulge, 4 bolts and tree belay. The crux is well protected and a hidden jug will prove to be your salvation.

Ram's horns have been added. There is also a chain around the tree.

Right of ‘The Appendix’ is a steep wall with two bolts. Start on the right side of the wall and climb past the first two bolts to a ledge and a third bolt. Climb over the bulge to belay on the pohutukawa.

Sit start match on the sloper, feet start on same face. One move to the top, mantle out without using other sections.

Sit start, stay inside the cracks, Arete is in, low ledge for feet on left is out. Reach the top ledge, no mantle until cleaned up, loose rock in the in-cut cave be careful.

Right hand pocket left hand arete. Straight up. Please avoid damaging the water pipe. Dirty top, needs cleaning and gardening.

Start left hand in pocket, right hand in waist high mono. Easy climbing to top.

Crimps on crimps. Be thankful for the lovely tree to break your fall (and back). Top out through the gap in the trees!

P1: Up the left face of the corner at the far left of the crag. To a small ledge.

P2: Head left around a small arete, up through interesting climbing to a large ledge.

Can be climbed as one long pitch, but be sure to minimise rope drag. Abseil down the line of Bolt Clinic or JAFA Cake.

P1: As for Midnight Lichening.

P2: From the anchor, step right and climb up the groove. Exciting moves before easing off for the middle section. Overhang to finish with fun, powerful moves (or move right for an easier variation). Shares an anchor with P2 of Bolt Clinic.

P3: Trad with plenty of greenery.

The first two pitches can be climbed as one, but be careful of rope drag.

Decent: From top of P2, easiest to rap straight down the line of Bolt Clinic.

P1: Start in the corner and trend right up to a ledge

P2: Continues up to another ledge.

Straight up the face to a ledge. Use this route to gain access to the following three routes.

Alternative finish to Age Concern. Traverses up and right to finish at Au Revoir's anchor.

Start as for Shelob to the ledge then step right and climb the groove and directly through a steeper bulge. Finish at the Shelob belay or continue to the top, climbing the arete. This 2nd pitch was bolted after originally being led on very sketchy gear in the 90's.

Climb the flake and shallow groove past an old peg to a tree belay. Or climb the groove from the right. [2] Step right from the belay and climb the wall left of the nose to gain a small ledge. Move left and up to belay ledges. [3] Traverse right and up a bushy groove, move out onto the rib and climb it to a ledge and tree belay.

The left most route on the wall. Some technical moves for the grade past the first few bolts followed by easier climbing to the sloping ledge.

2nd pitch to Ryobe or join both for a nice long pitch. Fantastic climbing up the steep face with regular rest possibilities.

P1.(15) From the ledge scramble to the twin cracks to the left. Climb the left-hand crack to the good ledge and rings. P2.(18) From the belay ledge, climb and scramble up and establish yourself on the wall to the left of the obvious piton. Traverse right to good holds and then up into the horizontal break. There was a piton here that has since rusted out but a large cam in an obvious slot does the trick. Get some good pro in the thinner crack above before launching out of the break and up the wall above, using the crack and holds either side. Follow the crack/seam to the good belay ledge and a double bolt belay. P3.(12) From the belay go right along the ledge and climb the left side of the arete. Rings are below the pinnacle top, directly above the 2nd pitch belay.