Routes in New Zealand for selected grade

Finishes in the saddle at the same place summit track comes up from the south side. Glue in anchors have been installed on the climbers left (east).

Homeowner has installed a small fence blocking access to the base of the climb. Please do not climb this until access rights can be verified and owners permission granted.

Belay off tree

Up the wide crack on the arete. Single bolt anchor.

Very slabby. All feet. Start with right hand in the pocket.

Quite slabby feet climb. Big jug at the top on the right.

Work your way up the crack, very obvious, travers around the right hand side of the plant near the top

To the right of the cave is a tree, you can belay from this point and climb up and to the left (over the cave entrance, have your belayer watch for people coming into and out of the cave).

It's a trad climb that leads up and over the large block at the top, the belay anchors are on the back wall of the block, either loooong slings or cord is helpful to set up a top rope.

A metre to the left is an open corner with a thin crack. Climb this, then move left to finish up a waterworn groove.

Climb the green wall in between two large trees. Tending rightwards. Route name, grade and description provisional pending further information. FA Unknown.

Climb past two bolts on jugs and slopers. Route name, grade and description provisional pending further information. FA Unknown

Up left short side

Up right side

Interesting moves at the start from the fang onto the ledge. From there a straight forward climb up the crack topping out on the right. Be careful with placements and take plasters.

Stand start with a hand on each side of the face. Head straight up the black slab to reach the jug and top out.

Easy for those tall enough to reach. A tough challenge for those who aren't.

tart matched in the left channel. Reach across to the right channel then top out there.

Start matched on obvious smooth block. Head right and then straight up.

Traverse left to right along the juggy lip and finish past Free Range.

Match on the arête. Move up the left side.

Climb the pinches and jugs. About 4m to the left of Sun's Out.

Stand start. Match on the jug. Head to the right then up the side of the face.

Sit start, match on the vertical jug, and use other good jugs to climb the rest.

Follow the arete just to the right of The Potarta moving right and up to the shelf and anchors. 2 BRs, 2 BBs.

Start as for Sunday Sunday, clipping the first bolt of that route to move right and follow two more bolts, finishing directly and to the left of the third, to the groove above.

“Ants” 9m 15 Up the recess/corner, right of ”How does it go”, step right onto block with blast hole, up a shallow scoop and short wall to the bolt, a small cam fits in the horizontal crack just above the bolt, swing right to reach the anchors. Trad, or clip the bolt. John Broadwell, Antony Ranger 09/11/2023

Start on the right side of the dark buttress right of “Midday lightning”, then up the centre of the buttress and left of the third bolt.

Start either on the left or right of the pillar (left is 18), follow the main flaring corner up & right to a very cool blast hole. Continue upwards and left to the DBC anchor (shared with Atomic Rooster).

Climb the blocks then pull through the steeper section to the right of the tree. Easy slab finish to the anchor. Stay left of the arête to avoid the choss and place gear in the thin crack on the left.

Start below the dominant prow, move diagonally up and to the right by the easiest path to reach the anchors

Up the easy groove and then left at the top across to the anchors.

Protection is a bit poor, might end up being bolted.

Up the groove, finish easily by escaping left past the small tree to the anchors of "Shooting in the Dark".

Don't know if this has previously been climbed?

Climb up the corner between shooting in the dark and zag, traversing left under the chossy ledge and finishing at the former's anchors. Slinging the tree while amusing, is not advised. If (and when) it goes, it will pull down most of the climb. The crack in the corner offers excellent protection, although the chossy ledge above provides food for thought. First ascent done with two offsets and a 0.5 C4 that a certain leader forgot on the ground.

Climb the slabby arete to the right of "I Do My Cleaning in the Rain", leads to a great crack on the left with plenty of placement options. Mantle onto the large ledges and protect the widening crack above to head up to the anchors. You can either stay mostly in this crack, or bridge out left so you can use the juggy edges above.

Spotted the great crack and had already cleaned the widening crack at the top so it was match made in the heavenly sun.

Climb the inwards corner to the right of "Shooting in The Dark" and left of "Climbing Cracks in the Sun". Some subtle cracks for protection down lower open to a nice wide hex size crack as you get to the crux of mantling before easier ground above. Climb moves right up the easy blocks to the anchors of "Climbing Cracks in the Sun".

Gianna and I managed to dodge the rain and climb "Shooting in The Dark" but the rain returned with a vengeance so we cleaned this route instead of climbing. Named after the a-ha version of Crying in The Rain which I heard the weekend before.

Follow the corner and crack immediately left of "Shooting in the Dark" to shared anchors.

Starts just right of "Canadian Summer (M5)".

Mantel onto the shelf and up the stairs to the right.

Over the block, then another mantel to the belay.

Climb the blocky stairs with clips heading right, watch for loose rocks as you go. Bolts then traverse across left and up to the DBC at the top. Belayer can dodge rocks under the arete or to the right of the climb.

Established as a Dry Tooling climb for mixed climbing (ice+rock) and rated M5 (approximately 5.9 / 16)

Climb the large blocks to the boulder and crack. Protection goes in the crack, you go to the left of the boulder - hexes and nuts work well. Traverse right to the anchors of "Sylvie’s Blast Hole".

Start to the right of Serenity. Straight up the face above past four bolts.

Start 5m R of ‘A Carp Died for this Climb’ Climb the corner with a thin crack at the back of it. Alternatively climb the corner 2m to the R. Continue directly up easier rock to the corner with yellow rock on its right. Start in the corner then move up left and continue trending slightly leftwards up the face and corner until a bolt can be seen on a smooth face to the right. Traverse past the bolt and continue upward to the anchor point below a large overhang near the top of the crag.

To the right of "A Carp Died for This Climb", follow the line of weakness to the anchors.

Start to the right of 'Fingertip Face' Get up onto the platform. A move on the left gets you started up the groove, then straight up to the belay.

Start is between Fingertip Face and MV6.Follow the crack,groove,drillhole,up to the MV6 anchors. Good stances for gear placements but a little run out at the top.

Start 5m right of 'The South Face' Climb the centre of the narrow face at the back of the corner to a small ledge 4m up. Step left round a small arete onto the scooped face. Climb directly up on good rock 1m to 2m right of drill hole. Continue up smooth steep face and move right to the belay.

Climb the face to the bivy ledge then continue up the blocky buttress.

There is a double bolt chain anchor on the ledge for multipitch practice.

Climb the line of weakness on the left hand side of "The South Face" ledge. Curves it's way up to the anchors of that climb. Plenty of small placements in the crack and very obvious line now that the gorse bush and choss is gone.

Climb up to the ledge, move right onto the face and go up through the gorse bush. Climb the headwall on the right using the top two bolts of the project or do it all trad with small gear in the crack.

Layback up the flared crack to meet "Scrack" at the last bolt, shared anchor.

Start 5m left of "Rock Climb This You Bastards". Climb the corner. Continue up the centre of the polished faces following the line of bolts.

Climb the prow and the final rounded face to the anchor bolts shared with "Blue's Suede Shoes".

Start in the groove beween Blue's Suede Shoes and The Whimsical West. The first bolt is on the right, the rest are stright above the groove, finishing at the double bolt belay shared with BSS and WW.

Starts 5m left of "The Whimsical West". Climb 3m up to the left end of large rounded ledge. From the right end of the ledge climb up to second bolt then traverse horizontally along ledge then up to third bolt.

Up to fourth bolt then up the corner just right of the anchor bolts. Alternatively from fourth bolt climb corner just left of the anchor bolts.

Start on the wall 3m left of "Blue's Suede Shoes" up to the shelf, then two mantles (the first mantle is easiest from the right), then straight up the walls above to the anchor (double bolt belay). There is some loose rock off line.