Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Ngahere Drive The Island | |||||
V8 | ★★ Mosquito Monkeys
Obvious slightly overhanging arete you can see from the road. Nice ear hand hold halfway up climb. FA: H Triebels, 2010 | 5m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Mangawhai Heads | |||||
V8 | Super Extra Gravity
Up face / shallow crack FA: Michael Welson, 2006 | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Wairere Boulders Black Hole Sun | |||||
V8 | ★★ Black Hole Sun
Start matched down on the rounded part of the arete. Traverse right into a pinch and a good edge, finish with a big move to the large pocket. Much harder if you’re short. FA: Will Watterson | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side | |||||
30 | Zillmerised
Climb the arete below the Sneakeasy ledge. FA: Roland Foster (solo), 1993 | 6m | |||
29 | Zorn's Lemma
The bolted groove and face. Go for it. FA: Roland Foster, 1992 | 13m, 3 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side Section 2 | |||||
V8 | The Egyption
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V8 | ★ Scott’s Arête
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Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side Section 3 | |||||
V8 | Blam Direct
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Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side Section 4 | |||||
V8 | ★ Zilmerised
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V8 | Solarised
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Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side Section 7 | |||||
V8 | I C Lightning, U C Crack
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Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Stony Batter First Round Area Chunky Boulder | |||||
{US} V8 | The Good Life
Sit start FA: Regan McCaffery, 2003 | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Stony Batter First Round Area Heavatron Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ Ruby Sparks
Traverse left from the Heavatron start on slopey holds. Reach down to the crack and compress your way to the top. FA: Glenn Erik Johannessen, 2013 | 3m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Coromandel Peninsula Maratoto The Twister Buttress | |||||
29 | Blue
A route with some contentious creation questions. Is considerably harder now that one of the key crimps by the start has broken and the bolted on starting foothold has been removed. FA: John Van Der Werf | 25m, 7 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Coromandel Peninsula Maratoto No Fly Zone | |||||
29/30 | ★★ Open Project
An outrageous line that traverses from inside the cave through steep climbing and out at the far right lip of the overhang. Does anyone know who the original equipper was? Holds through the final section look manufactured. This one was re-bolted in 2020 but hasn't seen an FA yet as far as anyone knows Set: unknown | 10m, 5 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Lake Taupō Kawakawa Bay The Bluff The Lower Bluff | |||||
29 | ★★ Kakarot Power
The steep overhang between Aliens 2nd pitch and Foo Fighter. Traverse in from the ledge (use the belay bolt to keep safe). Left knee pad or tape recommended. There are two great photo spots, depending on the light, next to the start of Jugzilla or at the anchor of Pointy Bit. Set: Dan Head, May 2021 FA: Wiz Fineron, 3 Jan 2022 | 15m, 7 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Lake Taupō Kinloch Kinloch Bouldering The Hidden Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ Humpty Dumpty LS
Start matched at the lowest part of the rail feature with feet down low, a few hard moves gets you to the start of 'Humpty Dumpty' and finish as per that climb. Vid https://www.instagram.com/p/Cm3UuUNyfbX/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= FA: Charlie Birch | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Lake Taupō Kinloch Whangamata Bay (K2) | |||||
30 | ★★ Star Destroyer
Start on first bolt of Eye of The Tiger then traverse left via big moves on mostly good holds to an okay rest, then fire up the sustained headwall on excellent rock. Set: Martyn Owen, 2020 FA: Daniel Krippner, 11 Dec 2020 | 25m, 11 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Lake Taupō Closed Whanganui Bay The Plateau | |||||
29 | Trilogy
FA: John Palmer, 2004 | 18m, 9 | |||
29 | Trinity
FA: Kester Brown, 2000 | 18m, 8 | |||
29 | Tiger-style
FA: Colin Pohl, 1997 | 18m, 6 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Waitomo District Closed Mangaokewa The Colosseum | |||||
29 | ★ First Light
FA: Tom Thumath, 2014 | 8m, 3 | |||
30 | ★★ Sushi
Set: Ivan Vostinar FA: Craig Houston, 2014 | 8m, 3 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Waitomo District Closed Mangaokewa The Cheap Seats | |||||
29 | Sencha
FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2010 | 10m, 4 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Waitomo District The Airstrip Valley Wall | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Wazzup
FA: Steve Conn | 3m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Waitomo District The Airstrip Highball Wall | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Crucifix
Powerful compression slaps from a sit start. A big span helps. Finish as for Crucify Yourself. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 29 Jul 2020 | 4m | |||
V8 | ★ Golden Shower Static
Same as 'Golden Shower Direct', merely done statically. FA: Matt Lewis | 5m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Waitomo District The Airstrip Grot View Cave | |||||
V8 | ★★ More Approaching into Frantic Frank
Start deep in the cave (A.K.A., Deep start), climb Approaching Insanity, continue on Frank's Better Half route and finish as Frantic Route (i.e., cracks/jugs are eliminated). FA: Marco Lefebvre, 11 Feb 2023 | 8m | |||
V8 | ★★ Perverse-alina
Start with More Approaching Insanity into Power Puku and finish with Transverselina. FA: Chris Hailey, 26 Aug 2023 | 6m | |||
V7/8 | ★★ Approaching Into Frankenstein
Start with Approaching Insanity and finish with Frankenstein. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 5 Feb 2023 | 7m | |||
V8 | ★★ Approaching Into Frantic Frankenstein
Start as for Approaching Insanity and finish with Frantic Frankenstein. The Du Has plate and jugs are out. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 5 Feb 2023 | 7m | |||
V8 | ★★ Frantic
A fingery line to start, followed by some fantastic burly moves. Starts at an apex halfway around the traverse of Approaching Insanity. Feet on and throw for a high crimp right. Throw left hand to low undercling under the nose, then clamp your way out below the finishing traverse of Franks route. FA: James Morris | ||||
V8 | ★★ Frank's Dirty Dance
Climb the first portion of Leon's Line to gain the Du Hast shelf. Reverse Du Hast, cross into the start of Dirty Dancing and finish with Dirty Dancing Extension. https://youtu.be/XRxxCLwXX6U FA: Marco Lefebvre, 12 Jan | 9m | |||
V8 | ★★ Frank's Route Direct - Reverse Du Hast - Frank's Better Half - Frantic Finish
Start on Frank's Route, go directly to the shelf, reverse Hu Hast to the plate and finish with Frank's Better Half into the Frantic Finish. | 7m | |||
V8 | ★★ Dancing In The Dark
Start as per Franks Route, Reverse Power Puku to 4 Points then continue up Dirty Dancing Extension. Beta vid - https://youtu.be/Q9dVZWkOU6E FA: Chris Hailey | 7m | |||
V8 | ★★ Frantic Frank's Route
Start as for Frank's route, climb into Frank's Better Half and finish with the remainder of Frantic. Could be harder. The final jug rail is out. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 5 Feb 2022 | 7m | |||
V8 | ★★ Frankenstein
Start as for Frank's Route, reverse Power Puku to the start of Frantic, head left thru small slopey scoops to the thin jug rail and finish with Frank's Better half. The plate and Du Hast jugs are out. Around 30 moves.https://www.instagram.com/p/CZBh54-FtRF/ FA: Marco Lefebvre, 22 Jan 2022 | 8m | |||
V8 | ★★ Frantic Frankenstein
Climb Frankenstein and finish with the remainder of Frantic. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 16 Feb 2022 | 8m | |||
V8 | ★★ Frankenstein's Monster
Start as for More Approaching Insanity, climb to the start of Frantic and finish as for Frankenstein. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 4 Feb 2022 | 8m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Puku Power
Climb Power Puku, reverse Du Hast to the plate and finish with Frank's better half into the Frantic finish. A nice variation for when the deep start is wet. | 10m | |||
V7/8 | ★★ Check Your Head - Reverse Du Hast - Leon's Finish
Climb Check Your Head, Reverse Du Hast and finish with the Leon's Line mantle. | 5m | |||
V8 | ★★ Check Your Head - Dirty Dancing Extension
Start as for Check Your Head, unwind from the kneebar, reverse Power Puku and finish with Dirty Dancing Extension. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 30 Nov | 6m | |||
V8 | ★★ Check Your Head - Reverse Du Hast - Frank's Better Half
Climb Check Your Head, reverse Du Hast and Finish with Frank's Better Half. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 15 Mar 2023 | 9m | |||
V8 | ★★ Check Your Head Direct - Frank's Better Half - Frantic Finish
FA: Marco Lefebvre, 11 Feb 2023 | 7m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Days Well Spent
Start as for Big Power Puku and bypass the first two meters by climbing through the roof using small edges and smooth scoops before linking back into and finishing with the second half of Power Puku.See Video. https://youtu.be/o2rS1jJ7eY0 FA: Marco Lefebvre, 23 Jun 2022 | 5m | |||
V8 | ★★ Furiosa's Better half
Start as for Approaching Insanity (regular start/wet day start), climb Power Puku to its finish, reverse Du Hast to the plate and finish with Frank's Better Half. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 25 Sep 2022 | 10m | |||
V8 | ★★ Dirty Furiosa
Start with all four points on the start of Dirty Dancing, climb all of Power Puku, reverse Du Hast and finish with Frank's Better Half. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 4 May 2022 | 10m | |||
V8/9 | ★★ The Dirty Wheel of Waitomo
Climb Dirty Furiosa and finish with the second half of Frantic. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 5 May 2022 | 10m | |||
V8 | ★ Franks Better Start
Start with Leons line, eliminate plate and finish Franks Better Half beta: https://youtu.be/0_HPwpV2SCs FA: Chris Hailey & Ashkan, 13 Sep 2023 | 8m | |||
V8 | ★★ Frantic Franks Better Start
Start with Leon's Line, eliminate plate, climb the Franks Better Half and finish with Frantic. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 9 Feb 2023 | 7m | |||
V7/8 | ★ Power Puku into Leon's Line
Climb Power Puku and finish with Leon's Line. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 3 Mar 2020 | 5m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Deep Leon
Start deep in the cave (A.K.A. Deep start), climb Power Puku into Leon's Line. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 17 Feb 2022 | 7m | |||
V7/8 | ★★ Cave Jam
Start as for More Approaching Insanity, climb Power Puku and finish with Maestro. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 10 Nov 2022 | 5m | |||
V7/8 | ★★ Sid Vicious
Start with all four points on the start of Dirty Dancing, traverse into and climb Approaching Insanity and finish with Frank's Better Half and the second half of Frantic. https://youtu.be/ICVmxY_uNbk FA: Marco Lefebvre, 24 Jul 2022 | 8m | |||
V8/9 | ★★ Johnny Rotten
Start as for Sid Vicious, climb the Power Puku holds to the start of Frantic and head left through the scoop like edges to the thin rail to finish with Frank's Better Half and the second half of Frantic. The Du Hast plate and shelf are out. FA video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=co3GjeBGjTQ&ab_channel=MarcoLefebvre FA: Marco Lefebvre, 24 Jul 2022 | 8m | |||
V8 | ★★ Dirty Dancing - Power Puku - Frankenstein
Start with all four points on the start of Dirty Dancing, traverse into the Power Puku holds to the start of Frantic and finish with Frankenstein, FA: Marco Lefebvre, 19 Feb 2023 | 7m | |||
V7/8 | ★ Psychosomatic
Climb Leon's Line and finish with Frank's Better Half. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 26 Mar 2021 | 8m | |||
V8 | ★★ Dirty Leon
Start with all four points on Dirty Dancing, climb Power Puku and finish with Leon's line. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 25 Mar 2021 | 5m | |||
V8 | ★★ Check Your Head into Leon's line
Start as for Check your head and finish up Leon's line. https://www.instagram.com/tv/CmyA6thjZ4s/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= FA: Charlie Birch | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Waitomo District The Airstrip Alchemy | |||||
V8 | ★★ Nightfall
FA: James Morris | ||||
V8 | ★ Lightspeed
FA: James Morris | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Waitomo District The Airstrip Castle Knob | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Corridor Crimping
Start on the finishing jug rail of 'wicked game' and traverse left via some small edges and tricky feet, finish up the left arete. FA: Charlie Birch | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Dark Side) | |||||
V8 | 14. Mister Meaner
Crouch start to small pocket and lunge. | ||||
V8 | 11. Fighting the Pump
Climbs Mark's Traverse to arete then onto '16. The Link' around the corner. | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Animal Biscuit Valley The Bits and Opel | |||||
29 | ★★★ Minor Threat
Set: Richard Bull FA: Scott Mooney, 2000 | 8m, 4 | |||
30 | Direct Threat
Traverse in from left of first bolt. Continue as for Minor Threat. FA: Scott Mooney, 2001 | 8m, 4 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Animal Biscuit Valley Da Cave | |||||
V8 | ★ Manipulator
Start as for Dr. Greenthumb and finish at the lip for Zoomers. | ||||
V8 | ★ Unknown1
Sit start with left on a pinch right on half pocket and finish as for Dr Greenthumb. Yellow circles. | 5m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Bulge Gully The Top Boulders | |||||
29 | ★★ Pedo and the Pieman
Exemplary hard Froggatt 2 finger pocket pulling. Preclip the very high first (only) bolt and don't blow the mantle. FA: Regan McCaffery, 2012 | 7m, 1 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Dug Out Boulder | |||||
V8 | 2. V8
Middle right of overhanging face. | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Echo Gully MUAC Wall/ Panama Wall | |||||
V8 | 8. Statement of Proof
Sit start, then traverse along the lip of the overhang and crank up and over. | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Heavenly Wall | |||||
29 | ★★ The Last Slab Fighter
FA: James Field-Mitchell, 2011 | 15m, 4 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Toliet Block Area | |||||
V8 | Nice and Clean
Sit start to 'Mossy Menopause' | ||||
V8 | The Mission
A hard deadpoint gets you closer. | ||||
V8 | Seeing the Light
Start as for 'Scott's V6' then up on tiny left hand crimp from the sloper. | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Hold On To Your Face Wall | |||||
30 | Hound of Hades
Direct start to 'Maddog Hine' FA: Craig Houston, Aug 2016 | 20m | |||
29 | ★ Maddog Hine
the image on this is incorrect. this route has a seperate anchor to cerberus to the right. FA: Holger Moeller, 2001 | 20m, 5 | |||
30 | ★★ Built to Last
Set: Scott Mooney FA: Scott Mooney, 1999 | 20m, 6 | |||
29 | ★ a la natural
Direct start to hold on to your face. Technical face climbing. FA: daniel Krippner, 2017 | 18m | |||
29 | ★ Draw drag dream
A continuation of double major drop out. after doing the small boulder off the ledge on DMD continue left into the top of Cerberus. FA: richard morgan, 2015 | 20m | |||
30 | Kink in the link
climb facial reconstruction but continue around the corner into the crux of lanky. has a run out that is a bit scary and the name is possibly the worst in creation. FA: craig huston | 20m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Hold On To Your Face Wall Pond Boulder | |||||
V8 | 10. Ouch!
Up on sharp holds. | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Wharepapa South Waipari Animal Kingdom | |||||
V8 | 14. Stallion that will Mount the World
Stand start, climb left along the arete and mantel to finish. | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Wharepapa South Closed Gower The Forks | |||||
29 | Abandoned Progect
| 22m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Wharepapa South Waipapa Main Cliff Millenium Wall | |||||
29 | Rain Man
Alternate left hand start to 'Super C Ellery' FA: James Field-Mitchell, 2012 | 30m, 6 | |||
30 | The Nothing
Start up Millennium Madness then continue straight up the thin seam. Head right through the roof and headwall. FA: James Field-Mitchell, 2013 | 12m, 5 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Wharepapa South Waipapa Main Cliff The Arches | |||||
29 | Fire In The Sky
Start up Arches break left and head up face, Through roof (knee bar) then continue straight up to DBC belay. Set: James Field-Mitchell FA: James Field-Mitchell, 2013 | 30m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tongariro National Park Mt Ruapehu Whakapapa Gorge | |||||
30/31 | Dodecahedron
Easy (but often wet) slab leads to a steep boulder on a rope. Juggy fun to finish. FA: John Palmer, 9 Apr 2021 | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tongariro National Park Mt Ruapehu White Falls | |||||
29 | ★★ Vulture culture
the obvious extension to crooked vultures reversing coma, and finish on Coriolis. FA: bob keegan, 2013 | 12m | |||
30 | Mansard Roof
Set: Tom Hoyle FA: Regan McCaffery, 2012 | 12m, 6 | |||
30 | ★★ Crag Vultures
Set: James Field-Mitchell & Regan McCaffery FA: Regan McCaffery, 2012 | 15m, 7 | |||
29 | ★★ Them Crooked Vultures
Start on the underclings as per crag vultures until you are in the double knee bar rest then traverse the crag on big holds to finish up on the coma anchors. (upgraded to 29 as per 8a.nu majority ticks) FA: James Field-Mitchell, 2013 | 15m, 8 | |||
29 | ★★★ The Coriolis Effect
Start at the stack of rocks on some underclings, once through the bottom section take the left crux as per coma for 29 or the right crux as per retaillack for 28. Finishes at the same anchors as Retaillack Set: Pete Allison & Kristen Foley FA: James Field-Mitchell, 2011 | 10m, 7 | |||
30 | ★★★ Civil Unrest
Start as per Coriolis Effect/Immortal then head through the Coma cruxes and to the anchors. Seems to be 30 if you take the left coma crux or 29 if you take the first knee bar retaillack crux then head left to finish at the anchors of coma. Set: Kristen Foley, Pete Allison & Ewan Sinclair FA: Craig Houston, 2013 | 12m, 8 | |||
29 | ★★★ First Breath after a Coma
Start at the wet jug undercling then head left after the first boulder problem to the crimp rail, traverse left through a big move then mantel out left. Set: Kristen Foley & Ewan Sinclair FA: James Field-Mitchell, 2012 | 12m, 8 | |||
29 | Death kwondo
climb the wraith, continue to finish up Koha. FA: James Field-mitchell, 2013 | ||||
29 | ★★★ Gastonberry
Set: Jonathon Clearwater & Ewan Sinclair FA: James Field-Mitchell, 2011 | 9m, 7 | |||
30 | ★★★ Snake Oil
Set: James Field-Mitchell FA: Regan McCaffery, 2012 | 14m, 9 | |||
30 | ★★★ Burning Man
Set: John Palmer FA: Jonathan Clearwater, 2011 | 20m, 13 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Manawatū-Whanganui Ashurst Bouldering Tee Tree Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ Soggy Sock
Sit start on some slopy edges at the base of the prow in the middle of the overhang. Bump left hand to another slopy edge then bring RH to an average undercling, slap up to a sloper and mount the bulge. Beta vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Syw7wAQbUt4 FA: Charlie Birch |