Ascents in Ōtākou / Otago by Vanessa Wills

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 127 ascents.

	Grade	Route	Gear style	Quality
Sat 2nd Apr 2016 - Motatapu Valley
Roadside Area Roadside Attraction
	21	★★ Aretenaphobia	Sport 13m, 3	★★ Very Good
Have done before, about 10 years ago.
Sat 2nd Apr 2016 - Motatapu Valley
Roadside Area Al Cove
	19	★★ Chinese Hospitality	Sport 15m, 6	★ Good
Interesting feature
	23 22	★★ Ferocious Weasel	Sport 20m, 8	★ Good
Not too hard
	23	★★ Roche Moutonnee	Sport 16m, 8	★★ Very Good
Great novelty roof with per madras
	20	★ Cunning Linguistics	Sport 16m, 5	★★ Very Good
I made the top roof harder than needed
	21	★ Reefer Madness	Sport 16m, 7	Average
Didn't like this that much, felt very pumpy
	22	★★ The Colonel's Secret	Sport 16m, 6	★ Good
The draws were on to below crux. Felt pretty slippery, I appreciated the hand jams
Thu 31st Mar 2016 - Motatapu Valley
Riverside Main Wall
	20	★ You Crack Me Up	Sport 25m, 5	★ Good
Feels easier than 20 now that you don't need to place gear
	25	★★★ Lollapalooza (Lollapallooza)	Sport 25m, 9	★★ Very Good
Took a while to stick the low roof moves. The top is just rather pumpy.
Thu 31st Mar 2016 - Motatapu Valley
Riverside Kerfuffle Wall
	18	★★ Te Whanau	Sport 20m, 5	★★ Very Good
Some time in the past, Rpt warm up today. Hard start
	17	★ Terrain Spotting	Sport 20m, 6	★ Good
Some time in the past
	17	★ Get Kerfuffled	Sport 20m, 8	★ Good
Sometime maybe 2010.
Mon 28th Mar 2016 - Wye Creek
South Side Main Wall
	17 18	★★ About Time	Sport 30m, 13	★ Good
Rpt, quite pumpy for the grade due to mystery hold factor.
Mon 28th Mar 2016 - Wye Creek
North Side Eweniverse Wall
	24	★★ Equilibrium	Sport 22m, 9	★ Good
Quite desperate even second go as I wobbled up this
	21 22	★ End of the Eweniverse	Sport 20m, 5	Average
Not sure how I didn't fall off this. Short on holds around the second bolt
Wed 23rd Mar 2016 - Mapoutahi
Main Wall
	18	★ Winona's big brown beaver	Sport 20m	Average
Easier to clean due to anchor placement
	20	★ Ejectoflap	Sport 20m	★ Good
The heavily chalked holds at second roof didn't suit me at all.
Wed 23rd Mar 2016 - Mapoutahi
Eldorado Wall
	17	★★ Golden Showers	Sport 20m, 8	★ Good
Quite nice
Wed 23rd Mar 2016 - Mapoutahi
Main Wall
	19	★ Greek Gift 2	Sport 20m, 8	★ Good
Feels quite airy
	20	★ Like a Lover Scorned	Sport 25m, 6	★ Good
Some interesting arête moves if the sidepulls out of reach
Wed 23rd Mar 2016 - Mapoutahi
Eldorado Wall
	19	★ Jospe/Carr Route (When Yuppies Go to Hell)	Sport 25m, 10	★ Good
Some moments of interesting climbing up groove
Sun 20th Mar 2016 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach
The Caves
	20	★★ Bowels of Mercy	Sport 14m, 3	Average
A few nice moves then rambling top
	18	★ Purple haze	Sport 10m, 3	Average
Some nice jugs then easy run out top
	20	★ Magnet	Sport 12m	★ Good
Found this stout, but maybe it was the full sun
	22 23	★★ El Zymer	Sport 12m, 4	★ Good
Add a grade or impossible if short. Got fingernails onto rail and did chin up to start.
Mon 17th Sep 2012 - Hospital Flat
Sunnyside
	22	★★ Sisters of Mercy	Sport 16m, 5	★ Good
Alzheimers OS
	21 22	★★ Shark Chirac	Sport 16m, 5	★ Good
More Alzheimers OS
	26	★★ Who Stole My Doris	Sport 21m, 5	Average
One of the best sandbags ever- told it was a 23. thought it was nails.
	25	★★★ Mental As Anything	Sport 21m, 5	★★ Very Good
More sandbags from MB. Too tired after doris, but much more doable.
	19	★ Hap Hazard	Sport 19m, 6	★ Good
Shame about the ledge.
Fri 14th Sep 2012 - Mount Iron
Ironside
	20 21	Urban Hang (Left end)	Sport 15m, 5	Average
	25	★★ Irony	Sport 15m, 5	★ Good
3 visits, not a bad route
	20	A Steep Introduction	Sport 15m, 6	Average
A bit escapable
Sun 9th Sep 2012 - Mount Iron
The Next Best Thing
	19	★ Toe the Line	Sport 20m, 8	Average
Too friggin cold and wet, couldnt feel hands
	22	★ Crossroads	Sport 15m, 4	★ Good
Did this some other visit
Fri 3rd Dec 2010 - Mount Iron
Ironside
	22	★★ Bush Lawyer (Bush Lawyer (C))	Sport 20m, 5	★★★ Classic
grade 22 in guidebook
	22	★★ Iron Maiden (Iron Maiden(j))	Sport 15m, 5	Average
	19 20	★ Out There on the Edge (Out there on the Edge (k))	Sport 15m, 5	Average
	23 25	★★ Irony (The free mantle day)	Sport 15m, 5	★ Good
	22 23	★★ Steelworks (Steelworks(i))	Sport 15m, 5	★ Good
Wed 13th Jan 2010 - Wye Creek
North Side Bush Wall
	23 24	★ Gift Of Grace	Sport 12m, 3	★ Good
hard for 23, especially to onsight
Wed 13th Jan 2010 - Wye Creek
North Side Project Wall
	25 23	★★★ Blood On The Tracks	Sport 27m, 10	★★ Very Good
Probably only 24. Shame about the start, the rest is superb!
Wed 13th Jan 2010 - Wye Creek
North Side Black Wall
	19 20	★ Full Empty	Sport 18m, 6	★ Good
the start was tough
Tue 12th Jan 2010 - Wye Creek
North Side Admiral Wall
	21 22	★ Frogaroo (Frog Arms)	Sport 12m, 5	★ Good
lots of holds, not all of them good
	22 23	★ Year of the Splat	Sport 12m, 5	★ Good
Bouldery and scary to clip.
Sun 10th Jan 2010 - Mount Iron
The Next Best Thing
	21	★ Chink in the Armour	Sport 15m, 5	Average
sandbagged and told it was a 17 warm up
	23	★★ Brass Monkey	Sport 15m, 5	Average
more hard slopers
	23	★ Stool Pigeon	Sport 15m, 5	Average
hard slopers
Sun 10th Jan 2010 - Hospital Flat
Whale Watching
	20	★★ No Thanks I'd Rather Walk	Sport 15m, 10	★ Good
a bit loose near the top
	24	★★ 10 Boy Scouts	Sport 20m, 8	Average
kiwis cant crimp
	23	★★ Hobo Humping Slobo Babe	Sport 15m, 5	★ Good
tricky to chose the right crimp
Sun 10th Jan 2010 - Hospital Flat
Warm Leatharête
	22	★★ Doing the World a Favour	Sport 20m, 6	★★ Very Good
was going fine til the top
Sun 10th Jan 2010 - Hospital Flat
Tombstone Boulders The Tombstone
	21 20	★★ Disco Inferno	Sport 15m, 3	★ Good
arete humping
	17 18	★ Rusty Pins	Sport 15m, 6	★ Good
tricky in places
Wed 30th Dec 2009 - Wye Creek
South Side Main Wall
	22	★ No Holds Barred	Sport 27m, 8	★ Good
Rather well spaced bolts. A full head trip!
Mon 28th Dec 2009 - Wye Creek
North Side Hidden Wall
	24 25	★ Emma Louise	Sport 15m, 6	Average
hard start, middle and horrible thrutchy end
Mon 28th Dec 2009 - Wye Creek
North Side Eweniverse Wall
	19	★ Vas-y Mollo (Easy Tiger (vas-y-mollo))	Sport 15m, 5	Average
not very memorable
	17 18	★ Incy Wincy Spider	Sport 15m, 4	Average
makes the trad route redundant
	22	★ Epoxy Passion	Sport 20m, 8	★ Good
some OK moments. Hard mantle
Mon 28th Dec 2009 - South Wye
Main Wall
	23	★★ Lambs to the Slaughters (Lambs to the slaughter)	Sport 150m, 27	★★★ Classic
Pitch 3 was spacily bolted- good lead Neil
	24	Two Steps Ahead of the Pack	Sport 87m, 19	Don't Bother
Felt hard cos I was meant to be doing an 18 and had on a full rack. Stepped in sling to get over roof
Tue 13th Oct 2009 - Mount Iron
Iron Curtain
	23 24	★★ The Bastard from Gunn Rd	Sport 20m, 10	★ Good
Good moves. Crap rock.
Mon 12th Oct 2009 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	22 21	★★ Hard Sun	Sport 82m, 31	★ Good
Great cleaning effort. Harder than 21
Sun 11th Oct 2009 - Wye Creek
North Side Project Wall
	25	★★★ Xenalasia	Sport 27m, 13	★★ Very Good
Another NZ dog for the collection
Sun 11th Oct 2009 - Wye Creek
North Side Eweniverse Wall
	21	★★ Tais-toi!	Sport 22m, 9	★ Good
A bit of a struggle
Mon 31st Mar 2008 - Motatapu Valley
Riverside Garden Bar
	19 17	Jug of Speights	Sport 25m, 13	Average
Competes with the Nutty Professor as the biggest sandbag in Wanaka
Mon 31st Mar 2008 - Motatapu Valley
Riverside Main Wall
	23	★★ Anti Walk Device	Sport 25m, 10	★★ Very Good
Did a Bundy and fell off at the anchors!
Mon 31st Mar 2008 - Motatapu Valley
Riverside Beginner’s Slab
	19	★ Cryptology	Sport 10m, 3	Average
OK warm up
Sat 29th Mar 2008 - Motatapu Valley
Riverside Main Wall
	24	★★★ Zoot Alors	Sport 25m, 7	★★ Very Good
Tried to do the 30 by mistake, but even when on track itTook a few more attempts than it should!
	23	★★ Anti Walk Device	Sport 25m, 10	★★ Very Good
Too tired.
Sat 29th Mar 2008 - Hospital Flat
The Main Cliff
	17	★★ Headbangers Arete	Sport 20m, 5	★ Good
Sat 29th Mar 2008 - Motatapu Valley
Riverside Main Wall
	23	★★★ Jack Be Nimble	Sport 25m, 6	★★ Very Good
Nice flake moves.
Fri 28th Mar 2008 - Wye Creek
South Side Main Wall
	18 19	★★ 88 Chocolate Treats	Sport 31m, 11	★ Good
Ahem. Went the wrong way over the bulge.
	17 18	★ Up the Creek (Up the River)	Sport 30m, 9	★ Good
Good the first time round, but would get tedious after a while.
	19 20	★★ Smellie Crack	Sport 25m, 10	★★ Very Good
Rather tricky for the grade.
Fri 28th Mar 2008 - Wye Creek
North Side Black Wall
	20	★★ Matt's Joke	Sport 20m, 8	★ Good
Short roof, then more sustained than it looked.
Fri 28th Mar 2008 - Wye Creek
South Side Main Wall
	21	★★★ Dream Thing	Sport 15m, 8	★★ Very Good
Sweet roof!
Wed 19th Mar 2008 - Gorge Road
Leonardo's Wall
	18 17	★ Heart of Darkness	Sport 25m, 10	Average
Not sure if this was it. Better than it looks.
Wed 19th Mar 2008 - Gorge Road
Main Wall
	23	★ Andy's Arête	Sport 25m, 8	Don't Bother
The worst strred climb Ive ever been on
	18	★★ Dog in Town	Sport 18m, 5	★ Good
The move over the roof is nice I suppose.
Sun 9th Mar 2008 - Motatapu Valley
Roadside Area Roadside Attraction
	22	★★ Everything but the Formalities	Sport 15m, 6	★★ Very Good
Worth the approach up the gungy ramp
	14	Roadside Rage	Sport 8m, 3	Don't Bother
Warming up
Sun 9th Mar 2008 - Diamond Lake
Pencil Dick Wall
	22	★★★ Take No Prisoners	Sport 20m, 8	★★ Very Good
Super moves, super setting.
	24	★★ My Little One	Sport 20m, 7	★★ Very Good
Another onsight that got away. (2) Hard all the way.
Sat 8th Mar 2008 - Motatapu Valley
Riverside Garden Bar
	15	Glen's	Sport 25m, 8	Average
nice views of the river from the top
	22	★ The Oatmeal Savage	Sport 15m, 5	★ Good
sustained up a seam
	23	★★ Who the Fuck is Nick Cradock? (Who the Fuck is Nick Craddock?)	Sport 25m, 8	★ Good
nice reachy moves. Probably only 22, but its my style!
Sat 8th Mar 2008 - Diamond Lake
Spade Slab
	22 21	★ Jokers Gone Wild (Venus then off to the right)	Sport 30m, 9	★ Good
Tricky bottom to the arete
	19	★★ Dried and Bagged	Sport 28m, 11	★ Good
apparently this only used to have 4 bolts in 25 metres. Better now.
Sat 8th Mar 2008 - Diamond Lake
Pencil Dick Wall
	20	★★ Stick It In	Sport 20m, 8	★★ Very Good
Would be classic if it wasnt bolted. FIngers to hands.
Fri 7th Mar 2008 - Wye Creek
South Side Main Wall
	17 18	★★ About Time	Sport 30m, 13	★ Good
Novelty climbing. Weird swirling rock.
	23 24	★★★ Aratika	Sport 30m, 10	★★★ Classic
Stonker moves the whole way up (2)
	16	★★★ The Mission	Sport 28m, 9	★ Good
the start doesnt flow. 3 star view though.
	17 18	★★ Don't Be Deceived	Sport 32m, 8	Average
! good move.
	18	★★ Lucalucki	Sport 32m, 13	Average
Weird bolting.
Wed 5th Mar 2008 - Hospital Flat
Warm Leatharête
	18 19	★★ Quick Fix	Sport 15m, 5	★ Good
Quite pumpy
Wed 5th Mar 2008 - Motatapu Valley
Roadside Area Roadside Attraction
	17	★★★ Shortcut to Exposure	Sport 30m, 14	★ Good
I think I did this many years ago somehow. Mustve been one of my first climbs.
Wed 5th Mar 2008 - Diamond Lake
Hotline Corner
	19	★★★ Fuckity Fuck Fuck	Sport 30m, 12	★★ Very Good
Guide book says 6 BR- it has 12!
	20	★ Hey George	Sport 30m, 14	★ Good
A bit dirty, tricky up high
Wed 5th Mar 2008 - Motatapu Valley
Roadside Area Roadside Attraction
	23	★★ Up Your Scud	Sport 13m, 6	★★ Very Good
Very thin. Great moves (2)

Showing 1 - 100 out of 127 ascents.

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Ascents in Ōtākou / Otago by Vanessa Wills

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