Ascents in Oceania by Josephine Roper

unsend, didn't want to do committing whaley stuff at the top, enjoyed the steep parts

repeat, borderline classic for a short 19 honestly

another great climb, one hard move down low. nice to have a slabby option where you don't need your arms to rest but still rain protected

reliving fond memories from 5 years ago. Still really like the climb. Crux crimps are much bigger than I remember, except the last one which was smaller...

just havin a dangle on the start

didn't top out, thought it went too high to feel safe, probably doesn't actually. need a barefoot tag lol

Lots of big moves, fun! but the force is not with me at the moment

Bit more crumbly

finally put some effort into this climb but having pregnancy core tension problems in the morning I think. In the arvo suddenly linked to the 4th bolt but hands were pretty sore after

pumpy warmup

Sam learns to crack climb! Took the flake option for this one just for completeness.

fell near the start and grabbed the ?third draw to clip but was honestly very happy to even get to that point. Then sprinted away from the fat leeches.

bit dubiously ended up using a fist in Vitez for the start after many attempts to do it direct. Then basically did half flake and half wide crack at the top anyway. But there was a bit of new climbing in it.

lil bit overhyped I thought, more just clawing your way upwards than say Hercules is. Still fun. And tbh I may be spoilt having done the first bit a few times already thanks to Jaded Cravings.

discovered this week that I have the most logged ascents at Cathedral (of people I can see anyway) but not the most unique ascents. So set out to climb new routes! This was quite worthwhile for all two moves of it.

Terrific route, very reminiscent of Frog (but short), but also think it would be 18+ there!

Enjoyed this more, maybe just because it was a bit easier for me

Very Tassie style. Happy just to work out the crux eventually!

We had a static line in place but nobody wanted to jumar except Cédric (masochist) so instead Ev led this with a backup on the static line so didn't have to worry too much about the runouts. Climbing is balancy and pretty interesting.

Took a while to find the start but pretty sure we ended up on the right line - everything matched after P1, which as James says was mostly offwidth, not matching tight crack or hands, and we had to wonder if the right side of the pitch has slipped downhill about 30cm (the whole pillar is just a bunch of blocks trying to fall apart as far as I can tell). Fortunately or unfortunately, James is not a quitter and went on a bold lead with shitty gear on the sides of the crack and at one point a #4 taped to a 4m long stick to push it into the top of the offwidth section. On the plus side the pitch is probably easier now (if you had the right gear) as I seconded it cleanly, but really not great rock quality.

We thought it would get better from there, but nope it gets worse. P2 was a nightmare, really hard to find anything solid to touch. After P2 we bailed through the cave/chimney system inside the pillar to the top of the notch with the main wall. I think this means we followed the line of Josh's Big Trad Line, but ticking here as this is what we intended to climb.

First came down this end to belay Cedric on his proji but were repelled by a veritable army of leeches (he has been avoiding them by top rope soloing and standing on a rock in between)

always avoided this one coz I heard it was reachy, but can actually do everything. Will just be very pumpy to link.

nice to have a play but couldn't work out the crux move at this end of the day

What a great climb, should have got on it ages ago. Was going to link p1 & 2 but was so worked after the chimney I was going to need a rest on the ledge for 10 mins anyway. It is also a very comfy ledge and you can enjoy the chimney struggles from it. P2 surprisingly tricky even though it fits small hands well. P3 had a couple goes at the crux to find a sequence, think it could go next time.

First pitch seemed pretty stiff for me, maybe just reachy. Second was more fun, not perfect rock but great moves. Would be a very pumpy onsight.

Much less snappy than Delusions of grandeur but still requires care and has possibly lost some little edges. Used the carrot as a hold for the traverse bit near the start, but could do clean after that. Think Cédric accidentally deviated onto the left route after the first few bolts but seems around the same grade and style anyway. Good if you like this kind of thing.

good if you like face climbing I guess, roof move was my favourite. Climbs are surprisingly clean for how little traffic this crag seems to be getting.

Heaps good fun for me, cracks and only tiny bits of scary slab. Linked P1+2. Should have led last pitch as well instead of letting Cédric do it and complain about choss all the way XD There are a few loose blocks but nothing untoward for the Bluies.

biggest jugs where you need them then a lovely corner

this also much easier with friction and someone having recently chalked up all the good holds

way easier in good conditions but still kinda burly and still used the handjam.

I don't reckon this is the same grade and less stars than Room with a View... I guess it's pretty short, but it's cool.

couldn't stick the crux but was fun to try a very dynamic move. Liked the weird ramp.

love this, start is much easier now I can actually jam

I find the rounded topout scary and a bit unprotected - first time I didn't want to commit to it, downclimbed to the ground for more small cams and finished up the slightly left route, where you can put one in before mantelling. Second time went straight up, just to prove my victory over this terrifying... grade 9 lol. Still like the route because of all the cute little jugs but very mixed feelings about the finish.

Actually did the end of transfixed/just one fixe which is also a 21 batman start. Felt weirdly spoogy and really battled the first time so gave up and toproped it, not sure if bad day or I just forgot what Earlwood feels like...

led first pitch to top of the corner then got a bad flapper and came down, shame as really liked the pitch. Pitch 2 is nightmare stuff for me, though didn't fall after the start. Pitch 3 is super fun, though did fall, with the hands a bit impaired. Will come back if I can sucker someone else into leading the 2nd pitch.

stuffing around on the start, not sure it's for me.

warmup

prob 6 attempts over 2 days? stoked to get this one finally. Really didn't seem to be going but sorted out some little betas and pulled it together, just.

Needed very different crux beta this time. Should have got on again. Ah well.

Held the anchor to clip, couldn't find a stable position up there. Crux is cool. Just too thin at the end for me with not a great fall below.

maybe ticked dab before because I didn't top out. topped out this time.

still have no idea how to do a sit start, not as a warmup anyway.

Got to 2 hang lol. Really hard to imagine linking it. GrAId is comforting.

shredded fingers too much for anything else!

Fantastic route. Not sure about the grade - I'm glad I had only read the guidebook and thought it was 19 max because it probably made me more confident, but can see some bouldery moves and some reachy crack moves being hard... Thoughtful bolting throughout.

Not ideal on a windy day, were basically stopping and clinging on to the wall at points, but all worked out.