Searching in:
| Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fri 24th Mar 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
| Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Jimmy Cliff | ||||||
| 19 |
★ Butt Nuggets
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
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Rpt
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| 20 |
★★ Mr Christmas Poo
| 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Rpt
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| Wed 22nd Mar 2023 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
| Waterfall Area | ||||||
| 11 |
One, Two, Umm, Three!
| 8m, 4 | Average | |||
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Rpt
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| 20 |
★ You are not the bose, I am the bose
— 2 attempts
| 9m, 2 | Average | |||
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Rpt, had to clean holds
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| 19 |
★★ Super Nintendo Chalmers
| 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
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Rpt
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| 19 |
★ All Climb and No Belay Makes Jack a Shit Mate
| 8m, 3 | Average | |||
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Rpt
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| 18 |
★ Ferns and Fings
| 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
|
Rpt
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| Sun 12th Mar 2023 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
| 16 |
★ The Blind Leading The Crippled
| 10m, 4 | Average | |||
| 15 |
★ Resurrection
| 10m, 5 | Average | |||
| 18 |
★ Interloper
| 10m, 4 | Average | |||
| 20 |
★ Drilling in the Name of
| 10m, 5 | Average | |||
| 18 |
★ Phantom Stone Thrower
| 20m, 5 | Average | |||
| 18 |
★ Bastard Cancer
| 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
| 18 |
★ Death Unto Racists
| 15m, 4 | Average | |||
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More back rehab
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| Thu 9th Mar 2023 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
| 17 |
★ Jesus Built My Hammer Drill
| 10m, 4 | Average | |||
| 15 |
★ Weetbix
| 11m, 4 | Average | |||
| 12 |
★ Paradise Found
| 12m | ||||
| 12 |
★ Eye Bolt Route
| 10m, 5 | Average | |||
| 17 |
★ Twilight Groping
| 10m, 4 | Average | |||
| 17 |
★ Don't Buy a Cheap Ryobi
| 10m, 4 | Average | |||
|
Rpt, testing out the back carefully. It’s kind of nice to touch rock, even if it’s waterworks….
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| Fri 24th Feb 2023 - Mystery cliffs | ||||||
| Zone 1 | ||||||
| 20 |
Bridge over the Mersey
| 25m, 8 | ||||
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FFA, such amazing rock, need to bring anchors to top of wall, but won’t be doing much for a while.
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| 22 |
★ Kick the Waves
| 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
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FFA, the last thing I did before the back went ping while camping later that night.
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| Thu 16th Feb 2023 - Mersey Cliffs | ||||||
| 20 |
★ Hue Bris
— 2 attempts
| 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
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Despite the weather forecast saying it’s fine it was raining and rather slippery
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| Tue 14th Feb 2023 - Blackwood Rocks | ||||||
| American Woman Area | ||||||
| 17 |
★★ Ruchipa
| 25m | ||||
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Very dirty, and horrible start. If you are short just step on partners knee….
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| 20 ~21 |
★★★ Drop Zone
— 2 attempts
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Found the moves to annd around the second bolt hard. The rest was really pleasant.
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| 22 ~21 |
★★ Elendil
— 2 attempts
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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I thought easier than drop zone, and liked it more. A little tricky to on-site I guess.
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| Wed 8th Feb 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
| The Organ Pipes The Columns | ||||||
| 17 |
★ Datsun Sunny
| 14m, 8 | Crap | |||
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Even weirder bolt placement. Perhaps an early attempt at the dark art? Maybe I was just grumpy because it was freezing and climbing in mist and there didn’t seem any point getting on the better routes up here
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| 16 |
Ford Prefect
| 12m, 6 | Don't Bother | |||
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A plus for bolt camouflage but minus a couple of stars for contrivance and bolt placement.
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| Thu 2nd Feb 2023 - North West Bay River | ||||||
| Dog Leg Bend Main Cliff | ||||||
| 24 |
★ Jumping Jack Russells
— 2 attempts
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
|
2 goes, unlocked a bit of beta, got rained off
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| Sun 29th Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
| The Organ Pipes University Buttress | ||||||
| 21 ~22 |
★★ Terra Nullis
— 2 attempts
| 30m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
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I thought Peregrine ( 23) was easier than this, onsighted everything except the crux which was hard, especially with less reach. Got quite spooked above the crux, great exposure.
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| Sun 29th Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
| The Organ Pipes Teardrop Gully | ||||||
| 19 |
★ The Unrideable Chicken
| 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
|
Really nice moves and rock up top
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| 18 |
★ Gone Viral
| 12m, 5 | Average | |||
|
The top half was good
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| 18 |
★ Sleeping Dogs
| 12m, 5 | Average | |||
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Felt Contrived
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| 16 |
The Bentwood
| 12m, 3 | Average | |||
|
Long moves between horizontals
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| Fri 27th Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
| The Organ Pipes Central Buttress | ||||||
| 23 |
★★ Peregrine
— 2 attempts
1
21
25
Rock quality was not inspiring. A finger sized cam at the top would prevent a ledge fall
2
23
20
Finger size cam at start would be useful. Onsighted all the moves but could not get the 8 th draw on, spent about a minute of increasing pump. The thread sticks out 2cm blocking the small hanger. Was level with it, and of course could have moved to the other side of the arete, but I was feeling out there already. Did it second go. | 45m | ||||
| Wed 25th Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
| The Organ Pipes University Buttress | ||||||
| 23 |
★ Sparkle
— 3 attempts
| 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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We went direct via some great bouldery moves. I couldn’t reach the way Dave did to a good hold way right, but managed to figure out a tough way whereby I thought my heel would snap if I fell, so did it on TR clean after two lead goes and aiding through crux on first go. Going direct seemed more 24 at my height. The flake to the right of the third bolt rocks and although keyed in at the moment may loosen or come out if someone yarded on it. We actually liked it, includes staying on face past 3 Rd bolt. Dave also did the arete finish.
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| 19 |
★★ 19 Shades of Grey
| 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
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Quite good, a direct finish would work but at the moment feels run out and makes you head left
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| 19 |
★ Sun Stealer
| 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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I thought better than route to the right
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| 16 |
★ Catch the Sun in Flight
| 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
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Deserves a star, interesting climb
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| Sat 21st Jan 2023 - Mount Alexandra | ||||||
| Vox Populi Wall | ||||||
| 14 |
★ Selective Cleansing
| 10m, 3 | Don't Bother | |||
| 20 |
★★ Iclimb
| 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
|
The grid bolting detracts
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| 20 ~19 |
★★ Silver Fox
| 16m | ★ Good | |||
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Rpt
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| 20 |
★★ Three and a Half Thousand
| 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
The best route on the wall I think
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| 17 |
★★ Dorothy the Dinosaur
| 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
| 19 ~18 |
★ Hugh Town
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
| 17 |
★ The Red Room
| 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Some people have rest stops off the freeway, we had a climb stop for 90 minutes
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| Sat 14th Jan 2023 - Joll's Bridge | ||||||
| Lower cliffline | ||||||
| 21 |
★★ The Climb that was
| 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
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So slippery today in the spooge
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| 17 |
★ Natie Head
| 8m | ★ Good | |||
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Rpt, good moves, make it easy. 2 laps to set up TRs.
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| Tue 3rd Jan 2023 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
| Middle Earth | ||||||
| 24 |
★ Grimy Wormtongue
| 12m, 4 | Average | |||
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Rpt, 2 clean laps
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| 19 |
★ Gimli's Gripe
| 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
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Rpt, with louise
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| Tue 3rd Jan 2023 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
| The Fish Bowl | ||||||
| 19 |
★★ I'm not gunna lie to you.....Nice
| 14m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
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Rpt
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| 20 |
★ Trents Flake
| 14m, 5 | Average | |||
|
Rpt
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| Sat 31st Dec 2022 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
| Middle Earth | ||||||
| 22 |
★★ Hand Shandy
| 11m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
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Rpt. Bolts need rejigging on this
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| 22 |
★★ The Stairs of Cirith Ungol
| 11m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Rpt, pretty humid day
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| 19 |
★ Gimli's Gripe
| 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
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Rpt
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| 19 |
★ Kleptomania
| 10m, 3 | Average | |||
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Rpt.
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| Thu 29th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
| Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Historic Wells | ||||||
| 19 |
★★ Use the Fork Luke
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
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Definitely not 18 as in the guidebook. Very hard start., had to get out crack glove, and hard second clip
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| 21 ~20 |
★ Movin' On Up
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
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Quite a nice climb
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| 22 |
★ Scooter Fun
— 2 attempts
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
|
Couple of enhanced holds it seems, pretty goey crimping without great feet off ledge, especially my first attempt when my belayer mistakenly mistook a power grunt dead point for a sign I was falling
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| Wed 28th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
| Blackheath Area Heathcliff | ||||||
| 22 Easy |
★★ Kate Bush
| 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
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Start pretty thin but ok. Top easy.
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| 21 |
★★ Centre of block
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
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Rpt. I think the start warrants 21. It’s unpleasant. The rest of the climb is nice
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| 19 |
★★ Chip Off the Old Block
| 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
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Rpt to get to carrot route above. Good warm up
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| 19 |
★★ The Rift
| 55m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Apparently the third repeat
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| Wed 21st Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
| Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Historic Wells | ||||||
| 23 |
★★★ Alive 'n' Kicking
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Unfortunately the sun had hit the wall by the time I got here and could see not much due to glare and it got rapidly hot. Need to come back in shade.
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| 20 |
★★ Funkytown
| 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Another good crunch route, short but fun
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| 17 |
★ Thanks Mum
| 13m | ★ Good | |||
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Well bolted
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| 18 |
★ Awesome Daddy
| 10m | ||||
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Rock improves up higher
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| 14 |
★ The Cat that Fought Back
| 15m | Average | |||
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Less crux than the two right of it, soa better lead for our friend
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| Tue 20th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
| Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Historic Wells | ||||||
| 16 |
★ Trick of the Light
| 20m | Average | |||
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The engineering job on the shaking flake is a bit scary. Would have best been trundled or wall left alone.
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| 21 ~22 |
★ Shabang
— 2 attempts
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Pretty hard moves to below roof. Interesting and fun and a sandbag at 21.
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| 21 |
★★ Tree Beard
| 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Nice juggy fun and probably a grade easier if tall
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| 15 to 19 |
Boatbuilding For Clancy
| 12m | ||||
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Pretty gnarly move off sharp and small crimps, unless you can reach the good one
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| 15 |
★ Dirty Beasts
| 17m | ★ Good | |||
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Interesting crux
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| Sun 18th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
| Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall | ||||||
| 22 |
★★★ Girl in the Mirror - Mean Streak Linkup
| 45m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Have seconded GITM before. Start better than I remember, some good moves between nice rests. Did as one long pitch
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| 21 |
★ Querilous Journey
| 40m | Average | |||
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Did as suggested in guide and started at first bolt rather than create a mega cairn.
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| 19 |
★ Caconofix
| 50m | Average | |||
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The move off the low ledge is tricky if you can’t reach the jug
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| Sat 17th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
| Blackheath Area Heathcliff | ||||||
| 19 |
★★ Chip Off the Old Block
| 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
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I think it was fun enough but not that memorable
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| 23 |
★★ How Far We Have Fallen
| 33m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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3 weeks laying on the couch has not helped my endurance.
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| Fri 9th Dec 2022 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
| Middle Earth | ||||||
| 17 |
★ Tolkien's Pockets
| 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
|
Warm up through the fig
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| 24 |
★ Grimy Wormtongue
— 2 attempts
| 12m, 4 | Average | |||
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2 laps, the effect of being sick for the past 2 weeks showed by the second lap
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| 22 |
★★ The Stairs of Cirith Ungol
— 2 attempts
| 11m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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2 laps. Hadn’t been in a harness for 13 days. Unheard of!
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| Sat 26th Nov 2022 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
| Sphinx Rock Main face | ||||||
| 22 |
★★ Walk Like an Egyptian
— 2 attempts
| 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
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Logged as attempt because I was setting up and then taking down a rope swing for 10 children and only wanted to get to lip. Quite fun, will return when not raining to finish head wall.
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| Thu 24th Nov 2022 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
| Coastal Cliffs Travel Land | ||||||
| 23 |
★ Mad Moroccan Cabbies
| 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
|
Pretty tricky delicate slabbing, would feel impossible if spoogy. A bit of brushing helped a lot.
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| 21 |
★ Disco Dancing Vegetable Bus
| 10m | ★ Good | |||
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More a high ball boulder, felt 3 grades easier than Tetragrammaton!
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| Wed 23rd Nov 2022 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
| Coastal Cliffs Light Fingered Maddison Buttress | ||||||
| 25 |
Dislocator Beta
| 12m | ||||
|
Tried this last time I was here, better than it looks
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| Tue 22nd Nov 2022 - Sand River | ||||||
| Colosseum Area Eldorado | ||||||
| 19 |
★ Dangle
| 14m, 6 | Average | |||
|
Fun enough but glad to have a longer panic draw, every bolt just out of reach
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| 16 |
Whack
| 14m, 6 | Average | |||
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Nice rockpast the ledge. Stopped hereafter our fall misn to find sun lover area. Setting out from carpark at 3 pm it wasn’t the best choice for a quick arvoclimb
|
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| 15 |
★ Nugget Juggler
| 16m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
|
Better than it looked
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| Sun 20th Nov 2022 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
| 26 ~24 |
★★ Tour de France
— 2 attempts
| 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
|
The down grade is personal due to the fact it seems most people and myself stay right of the bolts for most of the climb. It feels pretty contrived otherwise. The old bolts need replacing.
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| Fri 18th Nov 2022 - Mersey Cliffs | ||||||
| 20 |
★ Mr Plumpy
— 2 attempts
| 17m, 6 | Average | |||
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A bit contrived, the middle sequence was cool though, one of the drier routes today
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| 19 |
★ Not the greatest view
— 2 attempts
| 14m | ★ Good | |||
|
Wet and not having a good day reading the rock. Good climb
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| 21 |
Captain Barnacles
— 2 attempts
| 18m, 7 | Average | |||
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Nice view and fun bouldery start. Got sucked left too early into the 28.
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| Thu 17th Nov 2022 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
| The Sunny Side Shimmy Sheister Buttress | ||||||
| 23 ~24 |
★★ Waiting for Bobbo
— 2 attempts
- with
David Gray
| 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Tried leading but stumped at third bolt. Despite trying every permutation, including as pictured in the guidebook I could not get the reach to the key hold. Every other move done, though often with twice as many moves as Dave needed, including a technical start for the short! Great name.
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| Wed 16th Nov 2022 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
| The Sunny Side Trench-Foot Face | ||||||
| 19 Hard |
★ The Inspector
| 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
Took a few goes finding holds at start, then it backs off
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| Wed 16th Nov 2022 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
| The Sunny Side Saturday Night Buttress | ||||||
| 18 |
★ Zoo's Face
| 10m | Average | |||
|
Would be a slightly scary solo
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| Sat 12th Nov 2022 - North West Bay River | ||||||
| Dog Leg Bend Main Cliff | ||||||
| 21 |
★ Stone Age
| 10m | ★ Good | |||
|
Rpt, slab dynos
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| 24 |
★★ Bloodhound
| 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Still finding this finger destroying
|
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| 24 |
★ Jumping Jack Russells
| 15m | ||||
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Short but some good movement. Too hot in the sun to try again
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| Thu 10th Nov 2022 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
| The Organ Pipes Great Tier | ||||||
| 20 |
The Trump Tower
| 24m, 7 | Don't Bother | |||
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Looked interesting, turned out to be junk, apt name.
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| Thu 3rd Nov 2022 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
| 26 ~24 |
★★ Tour de France
| 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
|
Have to do double the moves at the start cf Dave, but it’s still easier than the 24 to the left. The rest didn’t feel much harder than the 24 either, but not sure I trust the bolts. A rebolt would be good.
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