Jura Południowa, Sport climbing

POL

II-II+III IV-IV+V VI-VI+VI.1+VI.2+VI.3+VI.4+VI.5+VI.6+VI.7+VI.8+

Map

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1 Dolina Prądnika 2 Dolina Wedonki 3 Dolina Garliczki 4 Dolina Raclawki 5 Dolina Szklarki 6 Dolina Będkowska 7 Dolina Kobylańska 8 Dolina Bolechowicka 9 Skały Karniowickie 10 Dolina Kluczwody 11 Dolina Dzwonek 12 Garb Tenczyński

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Summary

Limestone

Often called "Dolinki podkrakowskie" (Sub-Kraków Valleys). Listing all classic crags would take ages - each valley has its own gem.

Description

Guidebooks

Having a guidebook is essential since almost none of the routes have their name written on the rock. Jura Południowa has its own guidebook available here. The guidebook can be bought physically in a few shops and gyms in Kraków and near crags, list here.

There is a very good free online database with topos on Portal Gorski. It covers the entirety of Jura but most information is already outdated compared to the guidebooks.

Equipment needed

For majority of the routes, a 50m rope will be sufficient, but it's better to bring a 60m rope so that you can climb almost everything. Bring 15 quickdraws.

Route character

Majority is single pitch sport climbing, although there are few routes separated into two pitches. Routes are very well bolted and feel safe. You'll find one or two trad routes at almost every crag.

Bouldering exists in Jura as well, although it's nowhere near the popularity of sport climbing. Zimny Dół is the classic place to go to. There are no guidebooks available for bouldering, only information online.

Access issues inherited from Poland

🦅Check in with the "Ptaki w skałach" spreadsheet for routes with nesting birds.

Approach

Most crags are generally easily accessible, a 5-15 minute walk from the parking lot. Lots of regions are safe for children (flat grassy terrain).

Where to stay

Brandysówka (http://dolinabedkowska.pl/en/) is right in the middle of one of the valleys offering camping as well as rooms. There are also lots of cheap rooms to rent all around (look for "agroturystyka"). You can also stay in Krakow as all the rocks are a short drive from there.

Ethic inherited from Jura

Standard. Many rocks are on private areas near civilization - please respect the locals, don't play music and make loud noise.

Dry-tooling is strictly prohibited with the exception of the following sectors: - The quarry in Zakrzówek (Kraków) - only selected sectors! - The quarry in Zimny Dół (Jura Południowa, Dolina Sanki) - Dry Igły (Jura Południowa, Rusocice) - Jaskinia Jasna in Strzegowa (Jura Środkowa) - only selected roads inside the cave! - Rudy Kamień Quarry (Jura Północna) - Złota Góra (Jura Północna)