Access the belay stance by sliding left from the top of 'Kina', or right at last bolt of P2 'the White Shield'. Climb steep mostly juggy rock for several bolts through minor cruxes to a great rest pod, then through the last roof via a hand jam to arrive at the base of the headwall. There is a distinct and mandatory crux getting to the last bolt (just right of the white shield anchor). Grab the victory feature mega hold, clip the last bolt, then finish at the tip of the grey water streak.
The most climbers-left line on the Lost Wall cliff. The star of this route is the pitch 4 (27, 30m) on very good quality, yellow rock.
The bolts to develop this climb were sponsored by Armbury Company.
(18, 20m, 6 bolts)
(Bolting and FA by: Greg Jack and Joshua Merriam, July 2019)
First pitch of Forbidden Fruit and Genesis.
Climb spikey flake/grove feature up to the ‘Genesis Ledge’.
(16, 18m, 5 bolts)
Easy climb traversing left to the anchor located on the second ledge.
(25, 18m, 6 bolts)
Straight up easier terrain to committing bouldery sequence before the anchor.
(27, 30m, 11 bolts)
Beautiful pitch. Very sustain climbing in steep terrain. Bolts are getting more apart on the easier terrain close to the top.
Finish at the anchor located 3 meters below the top of the cliff to avoid the rope-drag on sharp rocks.
Fantastic face climbing up bright orange rock. A steeper section down low relents to a good rest at half height before sustained bouldery moves above.
Descend gully on seaward side of Bowl of Cliffs, then rap off Fa trees to find anchor bolts where the good orange rock reaches its highest point. A 30m rap will get you down to the belay ledge. Be careful if you've got a 60m rope.
Note: A traverse has been bolted to allow escape from bottom belay to base of cave via 4 bolts. If there is no rope hung from the established abseil station, you’d need to climb Nautical Nonsense (24) on the North side to top out.
