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Turnul Negru Rock climbing 7 routes in area

Grade context: UIAA
Ascents: 4

UIAA

4+5 6-6+7 8-8+9

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Description

All the multi-pitch routes are poorly equipped and dangerous to climb without the appropriate equipment.

Ethic inherited from Bicaz Gorge

Keep clean, no trashing. Modifying routes in any way is forbidden without the consent of the local community. Creating new chipped holds is strictly forbidden. Dry tooling is allowed only in Cheile Bicăjelului area.

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Routes

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1 6+/7- 40m

2 7+ 40m

3 6+ 20m

4 8+ 25m

5 7- 50m

Romanian 5A

The entire route is relatively well protected with newer mechanical anchors, old manufactured bots and pitons. The route is not beginner friendly but an intermediate climber with some basic aid climbing skills should be just fine on it. Some larger nuts/cams are recommended for p1 and p3.

The route can be and has been free climbed. It is one of the most interesting and varied routes in the gorge with each pitch being completely different from all the others.

Highly recommended.

FFA: Adi Stefan

FA: Miklós Nagy & Cezar Manea, 1977

Set: László Fucskó & Tamás Benedek, 2001

FA: Alexandru Stătescu & Ion Chiciorea, 1957

FA: Gheorghe Udrea & Ștefan Focșe, 1957

FFA: Oliver Batâr, 2001

Set: László Fucskó & Tamás Benedek, 2001

Maint: Aug 2022

very old(since 1992) bolts, climb with care

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