Routes in Central Region for selected grade

5A 7- (6 A0)

A very well protected route that traverses almost the whole wall. Consider splitting the longer pitches (it crosses half the routes on the wall, and most of them have a belay close to it or directly on it) and/or not clipping every piton you run into, else even 20 draws might not be enough.

P1: Two variants, the one higher being the original. The secondary, lower version is 7c rotpunkt, an overhanging left-facing crack that leads to an intermediate belay on P1. The original version climbs on a slab into an overhanging but aidable dihedral, then traverses right to an intermediate, 2-bolt belay (this is where the harder variation rejoins the main line). From there, head up a slab, then once over a ledge, into a right-leaning dihedral. Belay on the gigantic boulder making up the left wall of the dihedral

P2: Downclimb carefully left on a grass ledge that leads to very gentle slab, then gain a ridge (airy move, exiting the ridge by an overhang) and onto vegetated terrain left, to a belay on a ledge at the base of a slab.

P3: Follow a ramp to the left the whole pitch. Consider not clipping all the aid pitons, or even 20 draws won't be enough. The start is easy and heavily vegetated, then life gets harder and rockier until the ramp is interrupted by an overhang (crux of the pitch, easily aidable) and continues left on easy terrain to a belay on a ledge at the base of dihedral. There's an intermediate belay on a slab on the ramp (2 close bolts)

P4: Head up on a dihedral but traverse on a left crack as quickly as possible (the line heading directly up, to the ceiling, is a harder route). The crack leads to a small overhanging face, that can be bypassed on the left (crux of the route, aidable A1). Then head up and to the left, bypass an intermediate belay, then up on a dihedral to a belay next to a tree with a red bit of metal stuck to it ("Smoking place"). The pitch continues up on a small, well-protected dihedral and then on very easy terrain to a single-piton belay, but it's advisable to stop here to belay the second since you're on bolts.

Retreat: rap down from the Smoking Place (60m, potentially iffy rope recovery) or continue on the ridge (uphill, on the right side,on a fixed rope) to another col full of bushes, that has a tree with a piton in it. Rap off the piton since the tree leads to the ropes getting stuck (30m), and throw your rope to your right since the crack on the left eats ropes.

The first pitch has the first protection 4 m above ground and it and ends with a traverse to the right on small pebbles. The second pitch traverses diagonally to the left.

4A Romanian 7- UIAA (6- A0)

A not too airy but quite fun to climb ridge. Some belays and cruxes have had bolts added, and the old pitons are still there for aid, but having at least a minimal rack and some extra 120cm slings (and at least 1 240cm) is recommended. There are many opportunities to set a belay on natural features (the pre-rebolting route had all natural belays) so the number of pitches will vary - the description below is only one possible way of doing the route.

Approach: through Padina lui Calinet past Saritoarea Mare, then take the secondary for a few dozens of meters (before the first obstacle)

P1: Starts with a 15m runout on broken slab, doable either on the left (5+, chossy) or right (4+, grassy but less friable, some nut placements available on the ridge next to you). Then cross right on a protected ledge, under the eponymous "goat horns" formations, and back left on a 4+ chimney that leads to a belay boulder. 40m, 4+/5+ UIAA

P2: Head up a grassy bit that leads to a 7- face (aidable down to 5 A0) followed by a 6+ slightly overhanging dihedral (same). Then head up an easy chimney to a ledge. Belay off a bolt + small tree. 25m, 7- UIAA (6- A0)

P3: Continue on the ledge to the right until reaching a slightly overhanging 7- face (aidable), then on easy terrain up to a boulder belay. Uniting this with the previous pitch will lead to quite a bit of rope drag on the overhang. 25m, 7- UIAA (5 A0)

P4: Head on easy runout to the base of the wall visible above you. The 5- crux is protected by a bolt, and the pitch can be broken in two by belaying on natural features (choose your own). Final belay is off a large boulder, but there are opportunities for medium or large cams as well 60m, 5- UIAA

P5: The new bolted version to the right (7 UIAA) misses the best photo opportunity of the route, so head left instead, climb a flake separated from the wall (5+, protectable by slinging a chockstone) until gaining an airy 5+ secondary ridge protected by the occasional piton. Rejoin the main ridge (beware of a very loose microwave-sized boulder, we couldn't get rid of it since there were people in the gullies below) and belay off a boulder. 30m, 5+ UIAA

P6: Traverse to the right on grassy ledges, then climb a very easy and mostly unprotected chimney (3 UIAA) until regaining the main ridge. Belay off a boulder (very comfortable belay "armchair" for the next pitch) if you have 60m ropes and a 240cm sling, or continue for 10m through the bushes to a bolted belay at the base of a face if any of these is missing. 30-40m, 3 UIAA

P7: Do the 10m of bushwhacking if you haven't already done them, then stat on a well-protected 6 UIAA face, avoiding the overhang at the end on the right, continue on the ridge to a second bit of compact rock (6/6+, technical slab, on pitons) and finish with a 5+ friable runout to the final belay (on the left of a rock ridge). 50-60m, 6/6+ UIAA

Retreat: 1 20m rappel to a grass slope, then head left on Braul de Sus (in good visibility, easy to follow - it's the great faultline crossing Muchia Timbalului Mare) up to the gully before Acul de la Amvon (Valcelul cu Smardar). Descend that down to the arch of Valcelul cu Fereastra, cross into it, downclimb or rappel (5 rappels, first and last off trees marked with cord, middle 3 off bolts - the bolts aren't marked with cord but the old pitons are, so pay attention)