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Sector 1

Seasonality

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Description

The first sector you'll see as you reach the waterfall. The right half of this sector starts uphill on a tall ledge, with No Country for Old Men on the furthest left where the ledge tapers off to a rope leash. It continues up the hill to the right, finishing with Joint Venture past the small cave. The left half of Sector 1 starts on the lower wall right of the waterfall. Go under the waterfall around the bend where the first route you see with be the Subroofer project. The furthest-left route is P.O.H.U.I., which is first line right of the dihedral crack containing Guilty Pleasures (with the small tree in it near the corner).

Access issues inherited from Vânturătoarea

The parking area GPS (44.96439, 22.48412) is limited and shared by hikers and climbers alike. As of late September 2023 the area across the bridge by the houses was roped off to prevent parking, maybe to expand the lot. Please park on the highway side of bridge and leave room for big trucks to get through. If the lot is full, do not crowd it...either go somewhere else or carpool from another parking area. On weekends it is best to get here by noon, or wait till later in the afternoon to find a spot after the hikers have left.

Approach

The main part of this wall is the group of routes left of the waterfall before the corner. 5 routes are located on the lower wall right of the waterfall: Galusca (project), Super Humans (project), Inventiv (project), Picaturi, and Piscaturi, from left to right.

Ethic inherited from Vânturătoarea

Do not litter. Pack out all your trash. Take your toilet paper with you. If you see hikers littering, say something! Keep this area beautiful for everyone to use. It is normal for people to leave gear hidden at the wall to make the hike easier for following days. Please respect everyone's property and leave it alone if it's not yours so everyone can enjoy the climbing here.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Start up the white rock in small the inset before the wall turns a corner and goes uphill a bit. Just right of the dihedral crack with a tree containing Guilty Pleasures. Technical start with an amazing juggy finish on overhang.

Solve a hard roof boulder that leads to somewhat easier semi-sustained face-climbing.

One of the most popular "7's" at the crag, and definitely the highest of quality....although the grade is up for debate. There's a reason it's a lot of people's first "7a+".

An exquisite line of thuggery culminating in a powerful V6-ish (6c+/7a) boulder problem where a larger ape index might play to your advantage...or not.

The left variation breaks into a left line a few of bolts, skipping the 7c+ crux of the direct line. Make it to the roof then traverse right to re-join the main bolt line.

The direct variant with a difficult power-endurance crux on edges.

Set: Gerhard Hornhager

FA: Mike Fuselier, 2015

The lower part of Stone Butterfly.

Set: Gerhard Hörhager

FA: Adam Ondra, 15 May 2018

FA: Bogdan Rus, 2016

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Wed 10 May
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