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1 5+ 45m
2 7- 30m
3 7- 55m

description

Highly aesthetic route combining crack and dihedral climbing with rather technical face traverses. Protection includes slinging threads, and the crack in pitch 3 has quite airy in situ protection, so consider bringing small/medium friends. Pitch 3 used to be 2 pitches, but the intermediate belay was not rebolted so it's now treated as a single, very long pitch - bring at least 20 draws, many of them extendable, or back-clean your draws from the initial crack after reaching the bolts. 60m half-ropes allow descending the route in 2 clean rappels (down to belay 2, or an intermediate belay in Pantera Roz), then down to the path). 50m half-ropes allow descending the route in 2 raps and a downclimb (down to belay 2, then down to a platform that can be downclimbed). No half-ropes means you'll need to climbpoorly protectable tterrain to reach the ridge and walk off.

Pitch 1: Start on easy, grassy terrain and head up and slightly left until reaching an old piton belay. Traverse right and up towards a small overhang, where you'll find the belay (rather crowded for a team larger than 2)

Pitch 2: Head left past the overhang and climb a crack for ~10m before traversing left and slightly downwards on a grassy ledge, then on a slab (crux of the route) and on another grassy ledge that leads to a vertical crack heading to a not very comfortable belay.

Pitch 3: Climb a crack slightly right and then up (protection includes some threads threaded with old accessory cord, and may be supplemented with small/medium friends), then traverse left on a slab to the base of a dihedral you'll follow past an intermediate belay and into an overhanging arch. Past the arch, continue slightly left on an easier face, then up on a crack to the final belay.

Retreat: Rappel down 50m to belay 2 or 60m to a belay from Pantera Roz (slightly to the left from belay 2), then rappel the rest of the ditance to the base of the route.

Route history

There is no known route history.

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 45.55213, 25.54431

Grade citation

5+,7-,7- Assigned grade
5A 7- (6+ A0) Ruxandra V
5A 7- (6+ A0) Bersuc Mila

Seasonality

J
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M
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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 100 from 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Attempt 1

Comment keywords

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Ciprian Draghici

Date: 2017

ISBN: 9789730072938

A comprehensive guidebook for the rock climbing area around the city of Brosov in central Romania, covering 17 major rock climbing areas detailing nearly 700 sports climbing routes and 40 Alpine routes across all grades.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Sat 27 May
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