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1 15 30m
2 12 20m
3 18 35m
4 19 25m
5 15 25m
6 18 25m
7 13 45m

description

The routes goes up a conical buttress. Starts near a big yellowwood tree midway between Groothoek Chimney and Black Eagle Crag below a big roof 15/20m up.

  1. 30m (15) Climb diagonally right staying well Bellow the huge roof to a good ledge around the right roof corner. This is the outer edge of the ramp used by the first pitch of black eagle crag. Second half is grassy.

  2. 20m (12) Follow right hand side of the corner leftward until one can step across left (grass) to a wide ledge with a big block on its middle that crosses the conical buttress.

  3. 35m (18) From the left end of the ledge, climb onto blocks around the corner, then traverse right back above the ledge towards the roofs. Then diagonally left around the roofs. Climb the grey face and end up left to a thorntree & small yellowwood tree in Groothoek chimney

  4. 25m (19) Climb the steep corner, first usable gear a cam about 5m up. Continue on the left wall and overhanging crack, then traverse left to a scooped out ledge with good cam placements gear below the roof.

  5. 25m (15) Traverse minimaly right, then climb the face diagonally left until the base of a corner. Take the corner and head right, crossing a few birdshit covered blocks (not vultures though) until a belay ledge at the base of an obvious chimney. Opposite the crack à big yellow wood tree is a belay for ? probably black eagle crag?.

  6. 25m (18) Climb the left slanting overhanging chimney above with much grunting. Good placement are available, bringing a few large cams up is worthwhile. Traverse left to bypass the roof and finish left to a good ledge.

  7. 45m (13) Traverse right to the pillar. Climb the pillar then traverse back to the chimney. Finish easily to the top. Long and fun. If Pitch 6 made you swear to never climb again, this one will make you return to your senses.

Note: Excellent climbing made less serious by the proximity of Groothoek Chimney.

Route history

Mar 1982First ascent: M. Arsenjevic & D. Peters

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -24.47765, 27.63647

Grade citation

15,12,18,19,15,18,13 Assigned grade
19 Francois Pieterse

ethic

Bolting is not allowed. A number of large raptors have built nests in the vicinity of the route Swift Crag. If new routes are attempted, the raptors should not be disturbed. Also, please note that no climbing is allowed west of Auf Wiedersehen. This is due to research work being carried out on the vulture colonies in the area.

inherited from Kransberg

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 58 from 2 ratings.

Tick Types

Tick 2

Comment keywords

chimney crux

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Sun 28 May
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