A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Wian van Zyl Cormac Tooze Nicola Clementel Scurvy Marc dM Alta Lourette Matt Tranter Stitch will watkins Kai
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Montagu
732 in Crag
-
1.1.
Legoland Area 50 in Area
- 1.1.1. Legoland 30 in Crag
- 1.1.2. The Far Side 5 in Sector
- 1.1.3. The Panel 15 in Sector
-
1.2.
Bosch Kloof 64 in Crag
- 1.2.1. Bosch Crag 13 in Crag
- 1.2.2. Ramset Crag 19 in Crag
- 1.2.3. Forest Crag 8 in Crag
- 1.2.4. Hilti Crag 6 in Crag
- 1.2.5. Twin Fins 3 in Sector
- 1.2.6. Skull Crag 8 in Sector
- 1.2.7. The Matrix 7 in Sector
- 1.3. Kalkoennes 13 in Area
-
1.4.
The Fort 12 in Crag
- 1.4.1. Wall of Confusion 11 in Sector
- 1.4.2. The Lagoon 1 in Sector
-
1.5.
Keur Kloof 89 in Crag
- 1.5.1. Roadside 14 in Crag
- 1.5.2. The Shooting Gallery 5 in Crag
- 1.5.3. Jamaica 4 in Sector
- 1.5.4. The Rose Bowl 4 in Sector
- 1.5.5. The Lineup 7 in Sector
- 1.5.6. Joe's Garage 12 in Sector
- 1.5.7. The Vision 27 in Crag
- 1.5.8. Heaven 10 in Crag
- 1.5.9. Better World / Green Pillar 1 in Area
- 1.5.10. Stop n Go Wall 5 in Crag
-
1.6.
Cogman's Area 18 in Area
- 1.6.1. Castles Prow 5 in Crag
- 1.6.2. Cogman's Buttress 13 in Crag
- 1.6.3. Eagle Buttress 0 in Crag
-
1.7.
Riverside Crags 81 in Area
- 1.7.1. The Steeple 21 in Crag
- 1.7.2. Mystery Crag 5 in Crag
- 1.7.3. The Dog Bowl 5 in Crag
- 1.7.4. Slabs of Joy 7 in Crag
- 1.7.5. The Bold and the Beautiful 20 in Crag
- 1.7.6. The Alley 23 in Crag
-
1.8.
Bad Kloof / Badskloof 199 in Area
- 1.8.1. Lover's Lane 5 in Crag
- 1.8.2. The Bastard 2 in Sector
- 1.8.3. Waterworld 17 in Sector
- 1.8.4. The Penthouse 3 in Sector
- 1.8.5. Peanut Gallery 5 in Sector
- 1.8.6. Sloth Crag 14 in Sector
- 1.8.7. Lion Said 5 in Sector
- 1.8.8. Supertubes 17 in Sector
- 1.8.9. Pipeline 4 in Sector
- 1.8.10. South Park 2 in Sector
- 1.8.11. The Palace 31 in Sector
- 1.8.12. The Swamp 6 in Sector
- 1.8.13. The Playground 8 in Sector
- 1.8.14. Uriah Heep 10 in Sector
- 1.8.15. The Arête 1 in Sector
- 1.8.16. Worlds Apart 14 in Crag
- 1.8.17. Jurassic Park 7 in Sector
- 1.8.18. Berlin Wall 15 in Sector
- 1.8.19. The Laundry 4 in Sector
- 1.8.20. Camelot 2 in Sector
- 1.8.21. The Rage 1 in Sector
- 1.8.22. The Cave 1 in Sector
- 1.8.23. The Hotel 5 in Sector
- 1.8.24. Rehab Crag / The Consulting Room 20 in Crag
-
1.9.
Donker Kloof 31 in Crag
- 1.9.1. The Cauldron 7 in Sector
- 1.9.2. The Slab 1 in Sector
- 1.9.3. The Scoop 22 in Sector
- 1.9.4. The Pinnacle 1 in Cliff
-
1.10.
The Farm 41 in Area
- 1.10.1. The Farm Crag 12 in Sector
- 1.10.2. Black Slab Sector 9 in Sector
- 1.10.3. Graduation Wall 3 in Sector
- 1.10.4. Pump'kin Sector 2 in Sector
- 1.10.5. God Child Sector 4 in Sector
- 1.10.6. Awestruck Sunny Side 2 in Sector
- 1.10.7. Awestruck Shady Side 3 in Sector
- 1.10.8. Trinity Sector 2 in Sector
- 1.10.9. Whisper Wall 4 in Area
-
1.11.
Oorlogs Kloof 55 in Crag
- 1.11.1. Le Pique-nique Sector 11 in Cliff
- 1.11.2. Wildcard Buttress 4 in Cliff
- 1.11.3. Snark Buttress 12 in Cliff
- 1.11.4. Canasta Buttress 8 in Cliff
- 1.11.5. Buttock Buttress 2 in Cliff
- 1.11.6. Maverick Wall 0 in Cliff
- 1.11.7. Meatloaf Wall 1 in Cliff
- 1.11.8. Cuts Both Ways and Cowboy Area 4 in Cliff
- 1.11.9. Tower of Babel 5 in Cliff
- 1.11.10. Seamster Wall 3 in Cliff
- 1.11.11. Flaring Buttocks Area 2 in Cliff
- 1.11.12. Sleepless Wall 1 in Cliff
- 1.11.13. Beethovens Wall 2 in Cliff
- 1.12. The Sanctuary 7 in Area
- 1.13. Lost World 0 in Crag
-
1.14.
Guano Caves 72 in Area
- 1.14.1. Batt Wall 3 in Cliff
- 1.14.2. Main Wall 0 in Sector
- 1.14.3. Bat Wing Buttress 0 in Sector
- 1.14.4. Rock 'n Roll Kloof 69 in Crag
-
1.1.
Legoland Area 50 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Montagu 732 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.776406, 20.079195
summary
Montagu is recognised as one of the most outstanding climbing destinations in South Africa due to the quality and number of climbing routes available. Montagu’s rock walls offer a wide variety of climbing opportunities at every level from beginner to expert.
description
The charming town of Montagu is situated in the Klein Karoo (semi desert region) on the east side of the Langeberg mountain range 2 hours / 200km drive east of Cape Town. Montagu is well known for it’s hot mineral springs as well as climbing and mountain biking.
approach
rom Cape Town, get onto the N1 towards Paarl. You have the choice of taking the tunnel (toll is R26.00) or driving over the pass which is very scenic and recommendable in good weather. Once on the other side of the mountain (you’re now in Du Toits Kloof) keep on the N1 until you pass the Shell Ultra City. Turn right and follow the signs to Robertson and then through Ashton and then onto Montagu. Be aware of speed traps in the towns (60km zones) and sometimes in the kloof before Montagu
where to stay
There is accommodation in Montagu to suite any budget and style. There are two campsites in Montagu as well as many child & pet friendly self-catering holiday rentals, bed & breakfasts and hotels.
ethic
To avoid any further Altercations with land owners and incorrect equipment being used, the Montagu Mountain Committee (who are responsible for the Montagu Reserve) have asked for applications to be submitted before a new route is bolted.
Applications here: http://www.climbing.co.za/bolting-information/bolting-new-routes-montagu/
history
Once a sleepy little Karoo town where not much happened, the town has since transformed into a vibrant energetic holiday destination. Montagu’s hot springs were first documented in the late 1700′s. The hot spring water comes out at 43° C from a fissure estimated to be 3km deep and is unaffected by drought. In 1877, Thomas Bain built the Cogmans Kloof pass and the tunnel that trade began to develop the area. Between 1902 and 1985 the Brink Brother’s enterprises were of major significance to the town. Their activities included general dealers, bottling works, canning factory, dried fruit production and a department store. In 1936 Montagu was declared a health resort. This resulted in an influx of wealthy people purchasing holiday houses.
1.1. Legoland Area 50 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.814112, 20.090925
access issues
No permit required
1.1.1. Legoland 30 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.813712, 20.091146
summary
Cool introduction to Montagu with easy access. Great way to squeeze a climb or 2 in when arriving/ leaving.
description
Fantastic beginner crag, with a few moderate routes to keep everyone happy. 2 minute walk from the carpark, grassy flat base, and safe bolting. This is as pleasant and accessible as cragging gets.
approach
2' walk on a road
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
I Tink Not
FA: Montagu Rock Adventures, 2000 | 12 | 6 | |||||
2 |
I Bewieve So
FA: Montagu Rock Adventures, 2000 | 16 | 15m, 7 | |||||
3 |
★★ I Bewieve So Direct
FA: J. Temple-Fobes, 2002 | 16 | 8 | |||||
4 |
★★ The Rope Man
FA: D. Knipe, 2003 | 17 | 18m, 9 | |||||
5 |
★★ Dynamo Hum
Climb the first 2 bolts of 'The Rope Man' then straight up. FA: Tony Lourens, Aug 2018 | 18 | 10 | |||||
6 |
★ The Missing Link
Climb the first 3 bolts of "The Rope Man" then switch to the bolts for "Hey, Come On", avoiding the roof on Hey, Come On. FA: Stuart Brown, 2003 | 17 | 7 | |||||
7 |
★★ Hey, Come On
Perma draw at anchor FA: Tony Lourens, 1993 | 19 | 7 | |||||
8 |
★ Persistence of Time
FA: D. Marshall, 2003 | 19 | 18m, 6 | |||||
9 |
★★ Buongiorno Bambina
FA: Tony Lourens, 1997 | 21 | 27m, 11 | |||||
10 |
★★ Ciao Bella
FA: Tony Lourens, 2014 | 19 | 28m, 11 | |||||
11 |
★★ Buona Sera Signorina
FA: Tony Lourens, 2010 | 20 | 25m, 11 | |||||
12 |
★ Bolt Your Bitch
FA: J. Terblanche, 1998 | 22 | 10m, 3 | |||||
13 |
★ Slap and Tickle
FA: J. Terblanche, 1998 | 21 | 3 | |||||
14 |
★★ Crack Baby
Set: S. Brown, 2001 | 18 | 8 | |||||
15 |
★★ Eddy of Bovidence
Short bouldery route, with fantastic compression moves up a slightly overhanging face. This route has a permanent draw at the anchors. Spoonerism of "Body of Evidence" FA: S. Bradshaw, 1993 | 24 | 12m, 4 | |||||
16 |
★★ Lord at Begoland
Climb the blank scoop on small holds to join Eddy. Cool moves and sustained climbing. Spoonerism of "Bored of Legoland" FA: O. de Waal, 2021 | 26 | 5 | |||||
17 |
★★ Cheapskate Student
FA: C. Bruton, 1998 | 24 | 4 | |||||
18 |
★ Cleinous Hing
Spoonerism of "Heinous Cling" FA: E. February, 1994 | 24 | 4 | |||||
19 |
★ Baboons on the Roof
FA: B. Whitehead, 2004 | 21 | 4 | |||||
20 |
★★ La Befana
FA: Tony Lourens, 6 Jan 2022 | 17 | 25m, 11 | |||||
21 |
★ Caramel Roller Coaster
FA: Stuart Brown, 2003 | 17 | 6 | |||||
22 |
★★★ Chocolate Speedway
FA: Guy Holwill, 1993 | 18 | 18m, 6 | |||||
23 |
★ Buon Natale Amore
FA: Tony Lourens, 25 Dec 2017 | 17 | 25m, 8 | |||||
24 |
★ Life and Times of Mike Hunt
FA: Guy Holwill, 1993 | 14 | 18m, 5 | |||||
25 |
★ Not With New Brim
FA: Guy Holwill, 1993 | 16 | 15m, 6 | |||||
26 |
★ Oh My Goodness
FA: Guy Holwill, 1993 | 18 | 15m, 4 | |||||
27 |
★ Mild Thing
This route has a permanent draw at the anchors. FA: Guy Holwill, 1993 | 15 | 15m, 5 | |||||
28 |
★ Easy Does It
Set: Tony Lourens, 1993 FA: B. Higgins, 1993 | 16 | 16m, 5 | |||||
29 |
★ Sogni D'oro
FA: Tony Lourens, Jan 2020 | 17 | 5 | |||||
30 |
★ Pipe Dreams
FA: N. Matthews, 1994 | 18 | 16m, 6 |
1.1.2. The Far Side 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.814073, 20.088575
approach
Park at 'Legoland', cross the bridge and follow the track on the other side of the road
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ The Pillar
FA: 2019 | 17 | 8 | |||||
2 |
★★ Jammit Till Your Eyes Bulge
FA: A. Davies, 2006 | 23 | 15m, 8 | |||||
3 |
★★ Cow Poetry
FA: K. Donald, 1995 | 23 | 15m, 7 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Route Number One
FA: A. de Klerk, 1994 | 22 | 15m, 7 | |||||
5 |
★★ Skinny Legs and All
FA: P. Becker, 1995 | 23 | 15m, 6 |
1.1.3. The Panel 15 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.814493, 20.093314
description
3 Crags above 'Legoland'
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Panel | ||||||||
2 |
Project
Closed Project Set: S. Koehorst | 6 | ||||||
3 |
★★ The Trip
FA: S. Downing, 1996 | 25 | 7 | |||||
4 |
★★ Cool Turkey
FA: S. Downing, 1996 | 23 | 7 | |||||
5 |
★★ Free Basing
FA: S. Downing, 1996 | 20 | 6 | |||||
6 |
★★ Mainline
FA: S. Downing, 1996 | 22 | 7 | |||||
7 |
★★ Crackhead
FA: S. Downing, 1996 | 22 | 8 | |||||
8 |
★ Lucy in the Sky With Diamonds
FA: Elle, 2021 | 20 | 9 | |||||
9 |
★ Sugarman
FA: Elle, 2021 | 17 | 8 | |||||
Like Lambs Wall | ||||||||
11 |
★★ Time Wool Tell
FA: Elle, Nov 2021 | 17 | 5 | |||||
12 |
★ Like Lambs
FA: S. Downing, 1996 | 24 | 8 | |||||
13 |
★ Baby Don’t Herd Me
FA: Elle, Nov 2021 | 23 | 8 | |||||
14 |
★ The Sheep of Things to Come
FA: Elle, Nov 2021 | 21 | 7 | |||||
Oros Wall | ||||||||
16 |
Maredsous
FA: Marie-Ange Baudoin, Sep 2018 | 16 | 5 | |||||
17 |
★★ Oros, Greek God of Orange Juice
FA: O. Keet, 1996 | 20 | 5 | |||||
18 |
Kool-Aid
FA: Elle, Nov 2021 | 18 | 6 | |||||
|
1.2. Bosch Kloof 64 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.813292, 20.099313
access issues
A permit is required. Permits available at: https://montaguclimbing.com/boschkloof/product/day-permit/
|
1.2.1. Bosch Crag 13 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.813175, 20.096580
description
High vertical wall with routes mainly in the moderate grades.
approach
20' min
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Any Given Sunday
FA: Jeremy Samson, 2005 | 21 | 6 | |||||
2 |
★ Best Forgotten Monday
FA: Jeremy Samson, 2005 | 24 | 6 | |||||
3 |
★ Just Another Roof
Set: P. McCann FA: J. Fisher, 1992 | 20 | 7 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Never Say Goodbye
FA: J. Fisher, 1992 | 27 | 6 | |||||
5 |
★★★ Latin Lessons
Set: P. McCann FA: J. Fisher, 1992 | 21 | 10 | |||||
6 |
★★★ Partners in Crime
FA: S Maasch, 1992 | 24 | 10 | |||||
7 |
★★★ Me or My Girl
FA: S. Maasch, 1992 | 21 | 22m, 10 | |||||
8 |
★★ Master of Puppets
FA: S. Maasch, 1992 | 18 | 22m, 10 | |||||
9 |
★★ Beg, Borrow or Steal
Longer than 30m FA: Stuart Brown, 2004 | 23 | 19 | |||||
10 |
★★ Something Nowhere
FA: J Fisher, 1992 | 21 | 22m, 8 | |||||
11 |
★★ Sanatorium
FA: S Maasch, 1992 | 19 | 20m, 9 | |||||
12 |
★★ Trille in die Bos
FA: A. Davies, 1994 | 21 | 10 | |||||
13 |
★★ Nice Boys Don't Play Rock 'n Roll
Set: A. Davies FA: J. Fisher, 1992 | 24 | 6 |
1.2.2. Ramset Crag 19 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.812389, 20.097997
summary
Experienced beginner crag
description
Good for summer am.
approach
25'
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Better Than Raw
FA: D. Marshall, 2003 | 21 | 6 | |||||
2 |
★★★ Pink Bubbles Go Ape
FA: D. Marshall, 2001 | 22 | 10 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Master of Rings
longer than 30m FA: D. Marshall, 2001 | 21 | 14 | |||||
4 |
★★ Time of the Oath
FA: D. Marshall, 2001 | 20 | 10 | |||||
5 |
Keepers of the Seven Keys
FA: D. Marshall, 2001 | 19 | 8 | |||||
6 |
★ Road to Isengard
FA: Stuart Brown, 2005 | 18 | 8 | |||||
7 |
★ Shot Down in Flames
FA: Stuart Brown, 2003 | 17 | 40m, 2 | |||||
8 |
★ Beating Around the Bush
FA: C. Bester, 2003 | 16 | 40m, 2 | |||||
9 |
Return of the Warlord
FA: C. Bester, 2002 | 15 | 9 | |||||
10 |
★ Second Wind
FA: Stuart Brown, 2002 | 15 | 40m, 2 | |||||
11 |
★ Pass Wind
FA: Stuart Brown, 2002 | 17 | 8 | |||||
12 |
★ Forever and One
FA: D. Marshall, 2003 | 18 | 11 | |||||
13 |
★★★ Hannah's Wine Tour
FA: M. Rehm, 2002 | 20 | 10 | |||||
14 |
★★ Mad Dogs in a Meat Shop
FA: Stuart Brown, 2004 | 24 | 10 | |||||
15 |
★ Your Turn To Break Free
FA: D. Marshall, 2002 | 19 | 7 | |||||
16 |
★★ Future World
FA: D. Marshall, 2002 | 20 | 7 | |||||
17 |
★★ Mission Motherland
FA: D. Marshall, 2002 | 22 | 8 | |||||
18 |
★ Steel Tormentor
FA: D. Marshall, 2002 | 21 | 8 | |||||
19 |
★ Kings Will Be Kings
FA: D. Marshall, 2003 | 19 | 8 |
1.2.3. Forest Crag 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.813523, 20.098820
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
HB Brett
FA: D. Glass, 2000 | 13 | 4 | |||||
2 |
With a Herring
FA: D. Glass, 2000 | 16 | 10m, 4 | |||||
3 |
★ Redwood
FA: Paddy McCann, 2000 | 18 | 6 | |||||
4 |
★★ Bateleur
FA: Paddy McCann, 2000 | 21 | 7 | |||||
5 |
★ Made Marian
FA: B. Hochfeld, 2000 | 17 | 20m, 9 | |||||
6 |
★★ Free Radical
FA: Paddy McCann, 2000 | 18 | 11 | |||||
7 |
★ Forest Gump
Squeezed between Free Radical and Rapunzel. Western Cape Rock incorrectly switched Free Radical and Forest Gump FA: Stuart Brown, 2003 | 19 | 8 | |||||
8 |
★ Rapunzel
Set: Paddy McCann, 2000 FA: A. McCann, 2000 | 19 | 8 |
1.2.4. Hilti Crag 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.814829, 20.097865
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ The Fertiliser King
FA: Clive Curson, 1995 | 21 | 5 | |||||
2 |
★★★ Rockerfella
Set: Paddy McCann, 1992 FA: Paddy McCann & A McCann, 1992 | 23 | 5 | |||||
3 |
★★ Rastas
FA: J Alexander, 1992 | 21 | 6 | |||||
4 |
★★ Finger Fantasy
FA: J Alexander, 1992 | 24 | 4 | |||||
5 |
★★ Wonderlust
FA: A Lainis & G Lainis, 1992 | 26 | 5 | |||||
6 |
★★ Drill Thrill
FA: J Smith, 2008 | 25 | 5 |
1.2.5. Twin Fins 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.814406, 20.101136
description
Steep!
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ The Sisterhood
FA: Paul Schlotfeldt, 2000 | 25 | 8 | |||||
2 |
★★ Far Far Away
FA: Paul Schlotfeldt, 2000 | 25 | 8 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Another Lonely Day
FA: T Versfeld, 2000 | 25 | 9 |
1.2.6. Skull Crag 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.813006, 20.101905
description
Long routes, moderate grades, high quality.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ L'Abraxas for Dummies
FA: P. Becker, 2004 | 22 | 20m, 8 | |||||
2 |
★★ Comrade Turtlehead
FA: P. Becker, 2004 | 21 | 22m, 10 | |||||
3 |
★★★ King Tut
FA: M. Roberts, 2000 | 23 | 24m, 10 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Big Sky
FA: Paddy McCann, 2000 | 18 | 32m, 15 | |||||
5 |
★★ Feliz
FA: P. Becker, 2004 | 22 | 25m, 14 | |||||
6 |
★★★ Old Style 21
FA: M. Roberts, 2000 | 21 | 26m, 13 | |||||
7 |
★★★ Screech of the Bald Eagle
More than 30m, use a 70m rope. Top anchors shared with Dem Bones FA: M. Roberts, 2000 | 22 | 13 | |||||
8 |
★★★ Dem Bones
More than 30m. Use a 70m rope or re-thread at the intermediate anchor. FA: Paddy McCann, 2000 | 22 | 17 |
1.2.7. The Matrix 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.810944, 20.100406
description
Technically not part of Bosch Kloof. No permit required if you access from the other side.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Trust Me
FA: S Brown, 2004 | 22 | 12 | |||
2 |
★ Ray Charles
FA: A. Davies, 2004 | 20 | 7 | |||
3 |
★★ Stevie Wonder
FA: A Davies, 2004 | 22 | 8 | |||
4 |
★★ Red Pill, Blue Pill
FA: Malcolm Gowans, 2002 | 23 | 11 | |||
5 |
★★ Suspended Animation
FA: S Brown, 2004 | 24 | 8 | |||
6 |
★★ Codger Reloaded
FA: A Davies, 2004 | 24 | 10 | |||
7 |
★★ Reality Check
FA: L. Turner, 2002 | 21 | 11 |
1.3. Kalkoennes 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.802868, 20.090987
access issues
Access sensitive. Permission required! Kalkoennes is privately owned by the Basson family, and although the Bassons are climber friendly and have allowed the crags to be developed, the venue does have accommodation that is hired out to the public for recreational purposes. While the accommodation is inhabited, no one else is allowed access to the property. So basically climbing is only permitted if there is no one occupying the house, or if you and your group hire it, then you will have exclusive use of the whole area. For more information, permission for day visits to climb at Kalkoennes, and/or to hire the accommodation, contact Peter Basson on 082 331 4135
Do not in any way attempt to access the cliff from the adjacent farm as the farmer does not want any climbers on his land and we would like to keep a good relationship with landowners, even those who do not want climbers accessing cliffs through their land.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Tower Sector | ||||||||
2 |
★★ The Crèche
FA: Jaco van Rensburg, 2019 | 15 | 12 | |||||
3 |
★★ Verkeerde Veer
FA: Sakkie van Rensburg, 2018 | 17 | 16 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Just Wing It
FA: Sarel van Rensburg (jnr), 2018 | 21 | 15 | |||||
5 |
★ Gobbler's Feast
FA: Sakkie van Rensburg, 2019 | 22 | 7 | |||||
Broeikas Sector | ||||||||
7 |
★ Die Broeikas
FA: Sakkie van Rensburg, 2019 | 16 | 8 | |||||
8 |
★★★ Gereeld vir Kers Ete
FA: Sakkie van Rensburg, 2019 | 18 | 11 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Turkey Breath Wall | ||||||||
10 |
Project 1
Project - I assume its closed (not sure) | |||||||
11 |
Project 2
Project - I assume its closed (not sure) | |||||||
12 |
Project 3
Project - I assume its closed (not sure) | |||||||
13 |
★★ Lonesome Electric Turkey
FA: Tony Lourens, Jan 2021 | 17 | 45m, 2, 14 | |||||
14 |
★ Zampa di Tacchino
FA: J. Munk & Tony Lourens, Mar 2022 | 19 | 47m, 2 | |||||
15 |
★★ Turkeys in Tentacle Regalia
FA: W. Koen & Tony Lourens, Jul 2022 | 20 | 46m, 2 | |||||
Fried Slab Sector | ||||||||
17 |
★★★ Fried on a Slab
Warning: Route is 36m. There are halfway lower-offs. 70 or 80m rope will work. FA: Sakkie van Rensburg, 2018 | 21 | 36m, 17 |
1.4. The Fort 12 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.802675, 20.095019
description
Near the tunnel
access issues
No access issues
1.4.1. Wall of Confusion 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.803728, 20.095192
description
Robertson side.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Syndrome Sector | ||||||||
2 |
Dupuytren’s Contracture Syndrome
FA: Clinton Martinengo, 24 Apr 2022 | {FR} 7c/c+ | ||||||
3 |
Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
Set: Jeremy Samson, 2000 FA: Clinton Martinengo, 2015 | {FR} 7c/c+ | ||||||
Anarchy Sector | ||||||||
5 |
Schizophrenia
FA: Elle, Jun 2022 | 23/24 | 10 | |||||
6 |
★ Chaos
FA: Clive Curson, 1996 | 21 | 8 | |||||
7 |
WoC My Way
FA: Elle, Jun 2022 | 22 | 8 | |||||
8 |
★ Almost Anarchy
FA: Clive Curson, 1996 | 19 | 8 | |||||
9 |
★ Decepticon
FA: Elle, 2022 | 19 | 6 | |||||
10 |
★★ Zoë Kravitz
FA: Elle, 2022 | 23 | 7 | |||||
11 |
★★ Noodle Swimming
FA: Elle FA: Jul 2022 | 23 | 7 | |||||
12 |
★★ Infinite Improbability Drive
FA: Elle FA: Jul 2022 | 23 | 7 | |||||
13 |
Dr. Strange
FA: Elle, 2022 | 23 | 6 | |||||
|
1.4.2. The Lagoon 1 route in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.802108, 20.094935
description
Montagu side.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ The Boer and Brit
No anchor, walk off the top. Longer than 30 meters. FA: J Lawson, 2008 | 22 | 50m, 9 |
1.5. Keur Kloof 89 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.812403, 20.112001
summary
A fairly wild kloof that doesn't get the traffic it deserves, probably due to the hike ins required to get to the crags (compared to say Bad Kloof).
description
Great variety of crags catering to all sorts of styles with a few multipitch (double pitch) climbs thrown in for good measure.
access issues
No access issues
approach
There is one main path in the kloof, with various vague to non-existent trails breaking off to the various venues.
|
1.5.1. Roadside 14 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.804027, 20.101892
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Left Sector | ||||||||
2 |
★★ Sit Hom in Derde en Floor Hom
FA: E. February & Tony Lourens, Jan 2022 | 18 | 6 | |||||
3 |
★★ Road to Hell
FA: E. February & Tony Lourens, Jan 2022 | 19 | 6 | |||||
4 |
★★ Road to Hell Variation
Start on the right of Road to Hell and climb | 18 | ||||||
5 |
★★ Layby Boogie
FA: E. February & Tony Lourens, Jan 2022 | 16 | ||||||
6 |
★ Roadrunner
FA: E. February & Tony Lourens, Jan 2022 | 17 | ||||||
Middle Sector | ||||||||
8 |
Ticket to Ride
FA: E. February & Tony Lourens, Jan 2022 | 16 | 5 | |||||
9 |
★★ Auto Stop
FA: E. February & Tony Lourens, Jan 2022 | 16 | 5 | |||||
10 |
★ Long and Winding Road
FA: E. February & Tony Lourens, Jan 2022 | 19 | 5 | |||||
11 |
★ Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy
FA: E. February & Tony Lourens, Jan 2022 | 17 | 4 | |||||
12 |
★ The Passenger
FA: E. February & Tony Lourens, Jan 2022 | 18 | 4 | |||||
13 |
★★ Highway Star
FA: E. February & Tony Lourens, Jan 2022 | 19 | 4 | |||||
Right Sector | ||||||||
15 |
★★ Vespa
FA: G. Jacobs, Aug 2022 | 23 | 3 | |||||
16 |
★ No Parking
FA: E. February & Tony Lourens, Jan 2022 | 18 | 4 | |||||
17 |
★ On the Road Again
FA: E. February & Tony Lourens, May 2022 | 19 | 4 |
1.5.2. The Shooting Gallery 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.807186, 20.107257
summary
As you enter Keurkloof you will notice some tall faces high up on the left hand side of the kloof. This is the Shooting Gallery, the only walls in the kloof to receive morning shade.
description
Host to a few routes, including a mega-long open project requiring a 80m rope. Take a 70m rope for the epic line "Ricochet" (a must do 26 when visiting Montagu). The warm up 22 "Sniper" requires one to do an exposed scramble to get up to the start of the route (in a chimney with a chockstone).
access issues
No access issues
approach
Follow the main path into the kloof. Once out of the black wattle grove, continue on the path until just before it dips into the dry river bed. Look out to the left for a cairn. Weave your way between the bushes and onto the slope that leads up to the Shooting Gallery. If you are lucky you will pass a few more cairns on the way up the steep slope. About a third of the way up slope you will cross a dry riverbed. Continue aiming up the slope towards the gallery. Roughly 30~40mins of hiking.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Ricochet
More than 30m. Use a 70m rope. FA: S. Maasch, 1993 | 26 | 35m, 14 | |||||
2 |
★★ Trigger Happy
FA: J. Smith, 2008 | 25 | 11 | |||||
3 | Project (Open) | 30m | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
4 |
★★★ Stephan's Big Shotgun
FA: Stefan Glowacz, 1994 | 27 | 10 | |||||
5 |
★★ Sniper
FA: Malcolm Gowans, 1993 | 22 | 12m, 7 |
1.5.3. Jamaica 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.809800, 20.104469
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Spice Gold
FA: A. Naude, 1996 | 24 | 5 | |||
2 |
★ Waiting for the Sun
FA: G. Migeotte, 1996 | 26 | 5 | |||
3 |
★ Brace Up Sheila
FA: A. Naude, 1996 | 22 | 5 | |||
4 |
★ Stingray
FA: A. Naude, 1996 | 23 | 5 |
1.5.4. The Rose Bowl 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.812618, 20.104850
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Rising Above Bedlam
FA: T. Versfeld & E. February, 1997 | 26 | 2 | |||
2 |
★★★ Heaven Can Wait
FA: T. Versfeld & E. February, 1995 | 23 | 70m, 2 | |||
3 |
★★★ Line of Duty
FA: L. Rust & G. Austin, 1997 | 22 | 2 | |||
4 |
War of the Roses
FA: Richard Halsey | 25 | 30m, 12 |
1.5.5. The Lineup 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.812253, 20.105954
description
Host to a few short, but quality lines. A relatively short walk in of about 20mins. Go on a overcast or cool day as this wall gets hammered by the sun for most of the day.
approach
Follow the main path into the kloof, through the black wattle grove and into a clearing, crossing the river at one point. After about 10mins of hiking (from the car) look out for cairns leading up the slope on your right hand side (in the direction of Rosebowl). Follow the cairns up the bushy slope, crossing a dry riverbed at one point. You will see the crag quite some way below and left of Rosebowl. (Approximately 20min hike from where you park).
There isn't a very clear path to the crag, so just pick a good line between bushes.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Piccadilly Line
FA: K. Forbes, 2006 | 26 | 5 | |||
2 |
★ Feline
FA: Jeremy Samson, 2006 | 22 | 4 | |||
3 |
Water Line
Alternative right hand start to 'Feline'. FA: Richard Halsey, 2023 | 22 | 6 | |||
4 |
★★★ Hotline
FA: K. Forbes, 2006 | 24 | 7 | |||
5 |
★★★ The Line of Fire
Mega-classic. FA: K. Forbes, 2006 | 25 | 8 | |||
6 |
★★★ The Plumbline
Mega-classic. FA: J. Temple-Forbes & R. McBride, 2006 | 26 | 6 | |||
7 |
★★★ Tourmaline
Long sustained crux. Consensus grading needed, could be harder. Backstory - was listed as an open project in guidebooks since 2015, but it was just an idea for a cool route. Bolted in May 2023. FA: Richard Halsey | 28 | 8 |
1.5.6. Joe's Garage 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.812073, 20.107636
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lower Wall | ||||||||
2 |
★★★ Sheik Yerbouti
FA: Tony Lourens, 2002 | 23 | 13 | |||||
3 |
★★ Muffin Remnants
Set: Tony Lourens, 2002 FA: B. Higgins, 2002 | 21 | 8 | |||||
4 |
★ Little Green Rosetta
FA: Tony Lourens, Dec 2021 | 21 | 12 | |||||
5 |
★ On the Bus
FA: G. Jacobs & Tony Lourens, 2021 | 17 | 13 | |||||
Head Wall | ||||||||
7 |
★★★ Carboni
FA: Tony Lourens, Dec 2021 | 19 | 10 | |||||
8 |
★★ Water Melon in Easter Hay
FA: Tony Lourens, Nov 2021 | 20 | 11 | |||||
9 |
★★★ Burnt Weeny Sandwich
Set: Tony Lourens FA: B. Higgins, 2002 | 19 | 12 | |||||
10 |
★★★ Central Scrutinizer
FA: Tony Lourens, 2002 | 21 | 12 | |||||
11 |
★★★ Lucille
FA: Tony Lourens, Oct 2021 | 21 | 12 | |||||
12 |
★★ With Leather
FA: Tony Lourens, Dec 2021 | 20 | 10 | |||||
Combinations | ||||||||
14 |
★★★ Sheik Yer Weeny
Combine 'Sheik Yerbouti' with Central Scrutinizer. FA: Tony Lourens, 2002 | 23 | 55m, 26 | |||||
15 |
★★★ Central Sandwitch
FA: G. Jacobs & Tony Lourens, 2021 | 20 | 12 |
1.5.7. The Vision 27 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.815136, 20.110497
summary
A lovely panel of rock broken up by a few overhangs. Long face climbs on vertical to slightly overhanging rock. Crimps and jugs.
description
Long routes in a great setting.
access issues
No access issues.
approach
Follow the main path into the kloof as if walking to Heaven crag. After about 20mins of walking you will come to a clearing with a low concrete structure to your left and Vision kloof to your right. Look out for a cairn on your right in this area and follow a vague path that eventually follows a waterpipe up the kloof.
Keep following cairns (~10mins) to the base of the wall where you will have to scramble up to an exposed ledge for the majority of routes. Most lines have a bolt at the base to make the belayer secure.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Take Two Pillar | ||||||||
2 |
Mad Trad
Climb the crack system left of 'Take Two' but exit left into the corner where there are teetering blocks. Continue up this to exit onto a grey rock to the right of the gully. Continue climbing up the arete tending back right to top out above and left of 'Take Two' lower offs. FA: Charles Edelstein & Elle, Aug 2021 | 18 | ||||||
3 | ★★ Déjà Vu | 23 | 13 | |||||
4 |
★★ Take Two
This route takes a line up the pillar just to the right of where the path passes the little pool at the kink. FA: G. Kruger & J. Kruger, 1996 | 22 | 13 | |||||
5 |
G Kruger Project
G Kruger Project to the right of 'Take Two' | |||||||
The Vision | ||||||||
7 |
★ Haven't Got a Clue
FA: Arno Naude, 1996 | 18 | 3 | |||||
8 |
★ Breakthrough
Access route to base of the Vision 2 Bolts and Chain FA: Gerhard Kruger, 1996 | 17 | 2 | |||||
9 |
Captain Hindsight
FA: Elle, Dec 2021 | 18 | 4 | |||||
10 |
Soothsayer
FA: Elle, Dec 2021 | 18 | 5 | |||||
11 |
Epiphany
FA: Elle, Dec 2021 | 18 | 3 | |||||
12 |
★★ The Visionary
Start low on the left and do steep moves to the overhang on the right. Climb into the recess for one or two moves and then continue up the arete to the lower offs shared with The Oracle FA: Charles Edelstein, 2021 | 21 | 12 | |||||
13 |
★★★ The Oracle
FA: Elle, 2021 | 26 | 12 | |||||
14 |
★★★ Sink the Pink
FA: Andy Davies, 1996 | 27 | 10 | |||||
15 |
★★★ Unless First a Dream
FA: Arno Naude, 1996 | 25 | 10 | |||||
16 |
★★★ Wild and Wet
FA: Gerhard Kruger, 1996 | 25 | 10 | |||||
17 |
★★★ Lady of Lourdes
FA: J. Smith, 2008 | 27 | 11 | |||||
18 |
★★ Forever Friends
FA: G. Kruger & A. Naude, 1996 | 18 | 35m, 2, 10 | |||||
19 |
★★ Rhyme and Reason
FA: Jeremy Samson, 1998 | 24 | 9 | |||||
20 |
★★ The Last Stop
FA: Jeremy Samson, 1998 | 25 | 11 | |||||
Super Vision | ||||||||
22 |
Project 1
Closed project to the right of The Last Stop. Maint: Steve Koehorst, 2021 | 26m | ||||||
23 |
Project 2
Closed Project to the left of The Opposite of Echo FA: Steve Koehorst, 2021 | 28m | ||||||
24 |
★★★ The Opposite of Echo
Closed Project FA: Steve Koehorst, 2021 | 24 | 35m, 21 | |||||
25 |
★★★ Thousand Eyes
Great thin route on incredible features FA: Clinton Martinengo, 2021 | 25 | 22m, 8 | |||||
26 |
★★★ Place in Space
Celebrating the life of Teo Iliev, now back in Space 8 Bolts and Anchors Uses 3 Bolts of the seam of The Opposite of Echo FA: Jed Johnson, 2021 | 25 | 20m, 8 | |||||
27 |
★★★ Upward Facing God
FA: Steve Koehorst, 2022 | 24 | 20m, 8 | |||||
28 |
The Sentence is Life
Closed Project Maint: Steve Koehorst, 2021 | 23 | 7 | |||||
29 |
★ Short Sighted
FA: K. Fitchen, Jun 2022 | 22 | 8 | |||||
30 |
Shadow of the Sun
Closed Project FA: Steve Koehorst, 2021 | 25 | 18m |
1.5.8. Heaven 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.815072, 20.115119
summary
An excellent chocolate coloured wall that doesn't look like much from a distance but has some real quality lines on it once you're up close and personal.
description
A slightly overhanging wall with relentlessly pumpy routes that will have you crying for more... Madiba is a strong contender for the best 25 in Montagu. Test your mettle and try for the onsight. But be warned: Madibs is known to crush many an opponent with his wild haymakers, leaving you dangling on a tight rope, pumped out of your mind. Enjoy the quality climbs at this venue.
access issues
No access issues
approach
Follow the main path deep into the kloof, past Vision kloof. About 10mins after Vision kloof you will see a cairn on your right. Cross the river and scramble up the steep slope to one of the best crags in the kloof. (Approximately 35-45mins from where you leave your car).
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Angel | 17 | 5 | |||
2 |
★★ Fun 14
FA: A. Naude, 1994 | 19 | 4 | |||
3 |
★★ Reborn
FA: G. Kruger, 1994 | 20 | 5 | |||
4 |
★★★ Something Els
FA: A. Naude, 1994 | 24 | 7 | |||
5 |
★★★ Madiba
Set: Paddy McCann FA: Paul Schlotfeldt, 1994 | 25 | 10 | |||
6 |
★★ Viagra
FA: Jeremy Samson, 1998 | 27 | 16 | |||
7 |
★★★ African Soul
FA: P. Reef, 1994 | 26 | 9 | |||
8 |
★★ 7 Year Itch
FA: Jeremy Samson, 1996 | 27 | 7 | |||
9 |
★★★ The Old Man and the Sea
FA: Jeremy Samson, 1998 | 29 | 9 | |||
10 |
★★ Godflesh
FA: S. Downing, 1994 | 25 | 10 |
1.5.9. Better World 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -33.817362, 20.122428
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Dent-Davies
FA: C. Dent & Hilton Davies, 24 Feb 2022 | 20 | 280m, 10 |
1.5.10. Stop n Go Wall 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.803567, 20.101135
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Delicate Paws
FA: Tony Lourens, May 2022 | 18 | 8 | |||||
2 |
Picnic on Labour Day
FA: Tony Lourens, May 2022 | 18 | 9 | |||||
3 |
★ Scar Face
FA: Tony Lourens, May 2022 | 16 | 8 | |||||
4 |
★ Punky Puppies
FA: Tony Lourens, May 2022 | 17 | 8 | |||||
5 |
★★★ Punkie Puppies Go Ape
FA: Tony Lourens, May 2022 | 19 | 10 |
1.6. Cogman's Area 18 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.802650, 20.109648
|
1.6.1. Castles Prow 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -33.800228, 20.109431
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Cogitate
FA: M. Scott, N. Scott & W. Scott, 1998 | 13 | ||||||
2 |
★★ Rumpelstiltskin
Descent: Lower off the chains ±7m to the neck, then scramble up and off the back. FA: Tony Lourens & K. Buchold, 2022 | 23 | 46m, 2, 15 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Castles in the Sky
Descent: Lower off the chains ±7m to the neck, then scramble up and off the back. FA: Stuart Brown, 2009 | 20 | 50m, 2 | |||||
4 | Project | |||||||
5 |
★ Sand Castles
FA: G. Jacobs, 27 Apr 2015 | 16 | 40m, 2 |
1.6.2. Cogman's Buttress 13 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.802241, 20.109135
summary
Beautiful setting, multi-pitch sport, you might get to see a black eagle.
description
Beautiful setting, multi-pitch sport, you might get to see a black eagle.
access issues
No access issues
approach
(-33.794026, 20.113763) Hike up the Assvoelkrans hiking trail, turn left here (-33.798826, 20.109489) to hike down to crag base.
history
The first route opened was 'The Rave'
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
North Face | ||||||||
2 |
★★★ Another Day in Paradise
FA: Stuart Brown & R Brown, 2004 | 21 | 160m, 7 | |||||
3 |
★★ Magical Mystery Tour
Use 1x60m rope to abseil. If you use 2x60m ropes your knot will get stuck in a crack. FA: Stuart Brown, 2004 | 19 | 95m, 4 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Tre Fratelli
Starts a few meters right of 'Magical Mystery Tour'
FA: G. Jacobs, A. Gelmetti, W. Koen & Tony Lourens, 2018 | 20 | 78m, 3, 11 | |||||
5 |
★★ Eagles in the Sky
FA: Tony Lourens & J. Munk, Mar 2022 FA: Tony Lourens & G. Jacobs, Jun 2022 | 24 | 140m, 4 | |||||
6 | Super Corega | 16 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
North-West Corner | ||||||||
8 |
★ Schnitzel
FA: J Lawson & R. Lawson, 2014 | 14 | 35m, 2 | |||||
9 |
★★ Cresta del Amici
60m rope 10 quickdraws FA: T. Lourens | 17 | 9 | |||||
10 |
★★ The Rave
Abseil down 'Magical Mystery Tour'
FA: M. Johnston & Guy Holwill, 1998 | 22 | 170m, 6 | |||||
11 |
★★ Walking on Sunshine, Woohoo
FA: J Lawson & R Lawson, 2014 | 16 | 74m, 3 | |||||
12 |
★★ Eagles Folly
Eagles Folly was the first rock climbing route in 'Montagu' and is a classic that must be done. It is called Eagle's Folly because the leader of the opening party had to climb over a nest in the chimney (of the 2nd last pitch) and there was a young bird there and it squawked and squawked and then took off between his legs for what was probably it's first flight...! The nest was still there (abandoned) when he repeated it a few years ago. Don't underestimate the amount of time to climb this route, parties have been caught out in the dark! On the other hand it has been climbed car to car in 4 hours. The walk up usually takes about 45' to 1 hour. An early start is advisable in Summer to avoid the heat. There is no water along the way. A standard trad rack is required, a #4 Camalot is useful but not necessary. Most pitches are +-50 meters, so 50m ropes are fine. It is advisable to take a pair of walking shoes on the route for walking down. Long pants are also advisable. The descent is very obvious, once on top, follow your nose to the far side of the mountain and then hang left on easy terrain till you get to the large descent gully. The route follows the prominent central arête leading to the highest point in the area.
FA: Greg Moseley & Brian de Villiers, 1971 | 16 | 290m | |||||
13 |
★★ Tocando El Vacio
On P2 you can move right at the crux for an easier [19] variation.
FA: A. Segura, P. Rossimyol & A. Bayona, 2003 | 26 | 130m, 4 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
West Face | ||||||||
15 |
Low Battery
This route has long runouts
Advisable to use double ropes to reduce drag. FA: A. Segura, P. Rossimyol, A. Bayona & C. Mader, 2003 | 23 | 69m, 4 | |||||
16 |
★★ Burnt by the Sun
Advisable to use double ropes to reduce drag.
FA: M. Roberts & Paddy McCann, 2003 | 23 | 110m, 4 | |||||
Cogman's Amphitheatre | ||||||||
The Flutings |
1.6.3. Eagle Buttress 0 routes in Crag
|
1.7. Riverside Crags 81 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.795157, 20.101377
description
On the Kingna River
access issues
No access issues
|
1.7.1. The Steeple 21 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.797860, 20.101174
description
Great beginner crag, with harder routes around the corner on the back side of this wall. Is somewhat chossy but has seen plenty of traffic so is well cleaned.
approach
Very easy, mostly flat.
Walk back along R62 from Montagu, at the first road-bridge over the river, instead look for a path through the tall grass that crosses the river on stepping stones. After crossing the river, continue into the canyon. This is the first bolted cliff that comes right down to the path.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
FrontThe front of the wall - less steep | ||||||||
2 |
★★ Elbow Grease
Follows the arete of the crag - climbing the thin (width, not holds) face between 'front' & 'back' Steeple. Adventurous. FA: J.Lawson, 2011 | 14 | 11 | |||||
3 |
Jingle Bells
Very short super-beginner / kids route at the left end of the cliff. FA: S Brown, 2003 | 10 | 5 | |||||
4 |
★★ Lead us to Reason
FA: J. Temple-Forbes, 1998 | 21 | 24m, 9 | |||||
5 |
★★ Quasimodo
Permadraws at the anchor FA: E February, 1997 | 20 | 24m, 9 | |||||
6 |
★★★ The Gospel Express
Long route, climbs the obvious zig-zag finger crack. The classic line at the cliff. One permadraw at the top FA: Roger Nattrass, 1997 | 18 | 21m, 10 | |||||
7 |
★★ For Whom the Bell Tolls
Permadraws at the top FA: J Orton, 2002 | 19 | 11 | |||||
8 |
★★ The Reeking Bums of Angels
FA: Tony Lourens | 17 | 12m, 4 | |||||
9 |
★ Hells Bells
FA: S Brown, 2003 | 16 | 12m, 3 | |||||
10 |
★★ The Unforgiven
Permadraws at the anchor. FA: T Lourens, 1997 | 19 | 25m, 11 | |||||
11 |
★★ Altar Boys
FA: R Schmidt, 1997 | 20 | 23m, 7 | |||||
12 | ★★ Devil’s Dance | 20 | 20m, 11 | |||||
13 |
★ The Holy Grail
FA: S Brown, 2003 | 17 | 15m, 6 | |||||
14 |
Confessions
FA: S Brown, 2003 | 15 | 15m, 6 | |||||
15 |
★ God is a DJ
FA: S Brown, 2003 | 19 | 6 | |||||
16 |
Sunday School
FA: S Brown, 2003 | 12 | 5 | |||||
17 |
★ Derby Run
Route on the far right of the crag. FA: J. Lawson & R. Lawson, 2011 | 10 | 5 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
BackThe back of the wall - steep | ||||||||
19 |
★ Losing My Religion
FA: Tony Lourens, 2002 | 22 | 6 | |||||
20 |
★ Midnite Mass
FA: Tony Lourens, 2002 | 22 | 6 | |||||
21 |
★ Holy Moly
FA: R. Nattrass, 1997 | 26 | 7 | |||||
22 |
★★★ The Church of Frederico
FA: R. Nattrass, 1997 | 23 | 7 | |||||
23 |
★★★ The Shouting Stage
FA: R. Nattrass, 1997 | 29 | 14 |
1.7.2. Mystery Crag 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.793933, 20.101404
description
Short & steep.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Secret Desire
FA: J Orton, 1999 | 23 | 4 | |||||
2 |
★ Loch Ness
FA: J Temple-Forbes, 1999 | 22 | 5 | |||||
3 |
★★ Enigma
FA: J Orton, 1999 | 21 | 5 | |||||
4 |
★★ Apocalypse
FA: J Temple-Forbes, 1999 | 23 | 4 | |||||
5 |
★ Mythic Mystic
FA: J Orton, 1999 | 20 | 4 |
1.7.3. The Dog Bowl 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.793644, 20.100454
summary
The first (trad) ascents were done by Charles Edelstein during the winter climbing season in 1999. He was assisted by various wanna-be dogs including Adele McCann, Nick Williams (UK) and Steve Bradshaw (jnr).
description
A steep brown wall high up above the river.
approach
Approach as for Slabs of Joy. About 50 metres below the Slabs, leave the stony gully and head diagonally left across the slope to the base of a short gully leading to the top of the ridge (cairns). Follow the broad ridge for a while, until able to move across to the left and up to the base of the wall.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Slobber
FA: Charles Edelstein, 1999 Maint: T. Van Der Merwe, 2022 | 23 | 11 | |||||
2 |
Dog Bone
FA: Charles Edelstein, 1999 Maint: E. Pelser & Charles Edelstein, Aug 2022 | 24 | 12 | |||||
3 |
Scooby Doo
'Toto' and 'Scooby Doo' have the same start and diverge at the large break. The start is bouldery with a 6C boulder move. The easiest start to get to the break is on 'Dog Food'. FA: Elle, 2022 | 23 | 11 | |||||
4 |
Toto
'Toto' and 'Scooby Doo' have the same start and diverge at the large break. The start is bouldery with a 6C boulder move. The easiest start to get to the break is on 'Dog Food'. FA: Elle, 2022 | 23 | 13 | |||||
5 |
Dog Food
FA: Charles Edelstein, 1998 Maint: Charles Edelstein, Sep 2022 | 23 | 15 |
1.7.4. Slabs of Joy 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.793802, 20.101862
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Lemon Squeezy
FA: Tony Lourens & Ed February, Apr 2022 | 16 | 5 | |||||
2 |
★ Sticky Paws
FA: Tony Lourens & Ed February, Apr 2022 | 14 | 6 | |||||
3 |
★★ Pad or Slide
FA: Tony Lourens & Ed February, Apr 2022 | 14 | 6 | |||||
4 |
★ Lola
FA: Tony Lourens & Ed February, Apr 2022 | 15 | 6 | |||||
5 |
★ Daisy
FA: Tony Lourens & Ed February, Apr 2022 | 16 | 6 | |||||
6 |
★ Schlurpedy Shlurp Snout
FA: Tony Lourens & Ed February, Apr 2022 | 14 | 6 | |||||
7 |
★ Easy Peasy
FA: Tony Lourens & Ed February, May 2022 | 11 | 9 |
1.7.5. The Bold and the Beautiful 20 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.793231, 20.101864
summary
In the shade all day!
description
In the shade all day!
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sector A | ||||||||
2 |
★ Poesies Hoek
Pull on the draw at the stopper move around the 3rd bolt. FA: J. Lawson, 2010 | 23 A0 | 10 | |||||
3 |
★★ Slackness
FA: Stuart Brown, 2010 | 23 | 11 | |||||
4 |
★★ Scatterlings
FA: Stuart Brown, 2010 | 23 | 10 | |||||
5 |
★★ Hamba Kashle
FA: Stuart Brown, 2010 | 19 | 10 | |||||
Sector B | ||||||||
7 |
★★ Shoot the Bee
FA: M. Rehm, 2010 | 20 | 8 | |||||
8 |
★★★ The Bigamist
FA: J. Lawson R. Lawson, 2010 | 19 | 10 | |||||
9 |
★★ Sense of Security
P2 of 'The Bigamist' FA: J. Lawson & R. Lawson, 2010 | 16 | 5 | |||||
10 |
★★ Tubular Bells
FA: Tony Lourens, Apr 2021 | 19 | 12 | |||||
11 |
★★ I Want it My Way
FA: J. Lawson R. Lawson, 2010 | 18 | 10 | |||||
12 |
★★ Moby Dick
Better if you don't go right around the bulge | 19 | 10 | |||||
13 |
★★ Snot and Trana
FA: J. Lawson R. Lawson, 2010 | 18 | 10 | |||||
14 |
★★★ Glockenspiel
FA: Tony Lourens, May 2021 | 18 | 13 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Sector C | ||||||||
16 |
★★ Man in the Rain
FA: Tony Lourens, Nov 2021 | 17 | 7 | |||||
17 |
★★ Moonlight Shadow
FA: Tony Lourens, Sep 2021 | 18 | 9 | |||||
18 |
★★ Duidelik
FA: J. Lawson R. Lawson, 2010 | 17 | 7 | |||||
19 |
★★ You Go First
FA: J. Lawson R. Lawson, 2010 | 16 | 6 | |||||
20 |
★★ Reed and Pipe Instruments
FA: Tony Lourens, 2010 | 18 | 7 | |||||
21 |
★★ Dirty Little Secret
FA: J. Lawson R. Lawson, 2010 | 15 | 7 | |||||
The Crows Nest | ||||||||
23 |
★★ Storm Watch
FA: Tony Lourens, Oct 2021 | 19 | 9 | |||||
24 |
★★ Weather Cock
FA: Tony Lourens, Nov 2021 | 18 | 7 |
1.7.6. The Alley 23 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.793093, 20.102032
description
Steep
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Romance Alley Left | ||||||||
2 |
★★ The Passion Gap Maker
FA: Clinton Martinengo, Jul 2022 | 26 | 3 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Pressing Romance
FA: Clinton Martinengo, Jun 2022 | 32 | 5 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Separation Anxiety
Climbs and clips the first three bolt and first crux of "The Pressing Romance" then brakes out hard right cross the chossy looking gully. The rock is solid despite how it looks and finishes with a red point crux as the last move. Thanks Colin for the belay and fun afternoon - Clinton Martinengo FA: Clinton Martinengo, 14 Jul 2022 | 29 | 6 | |||||
5 |
Project
Closed project - Steven Bradshaw | |||||||
Romance Alley Mainon the main wall | ||||||||
7 |
★★ A Bronx Tale / Butter Glut
FA: Craig Bruton, 1997 | 26 | 6 | |||||
8 |
★★ Taxi Ride
Turn right at the second bolt of A Bronx Tale and continues until the intersection with The Baseball Bat Treatment, finishing with the latter's crux. FA: Steven Bradshaw, Dec 2021 | 29 | 11 | |||||
9 |
★★★ The Woodstock Saints / Gangsta Rap
FA: Craig Bruton, 1997 | 25 | 5 | |||||
10 |
★★★ True Romance
FA: Deon Hugo, 1997 | 24 | 6 | |||||
11 |
★★★ Romancing the Stone
FA: Deon Hugo, 1997 | 23 | 6 | |||||
12 |
★★ Hired Hands
FA: S. Koehorst, 1997 | 23 | 6 | |||||
13 |
Baseball Brat
https://www.instagram.com/p/CYcdKmZoseY/?utm_medium=copy_link FA: Steven Bradshaw, Jan 2022 | 25 | 5 | |||||
14 |
★★ Zelenskiy Green
Linkup: Start up Baseball Brat and finish on Taxi Ride / The Baseball Bat Treatment. FA: Steven Bradshaw, 24 Apr 2022 | 28 | 7 | |||||
15 |
★★★ The Baseball Bat Treatment
FA: Guy Holwill, 1997 | 28 | 6 | |||||
16 |
★ Zero Tolerance
FA: Craig Bruton, 1997 | 25 | 4 | |||||
The SlabOn the slab facing 'Romance Alley' | ||||||||
18 |
★ Lolita
FA: Ken Schumann, 1999 | 17 | 6 | |||||
19 |
★ Slag
FA: Ken Schumann, 1997 | 19 | 6 | |||||
Gangster's Wall30m Further up the gully | ||||||||
21 |
★ Fat Albert–ing / Fatal Beating
FA: Guy Holwill, 1997 | 25 | 4 | |||||
22 |
★★ Forced Entrée / Forced Entry
FA: Ken Schumann, 1998 | 27 | 5 | |||||
23 |
★★ A Slight Mugging
FA: Guy Holwill, 1997 | 24 | 7 | |||||
24 |
★ Blunt Instrument
FA: Guy Holwill, 1997 | 25 | 4 | |||||
25 |
★ Unnecessary Crêpe / Post Traumatic Stress
FA: Jeremy Samson, 1997 | 27 | 5 | |||||
26 |
★ Elephant Hitmen
FA: Doug Ward, 1998 | 24 | 5 | |||||
27 |
★★★ Gangster's Paradise
FA: Guy Holwill, 1997 | 27 | 5 |
1.8. Bad Kloof 199 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.773658, 20.116117
description
Badskloof is referred to as "Bad Kloof" in the guide book.
Bottom entrance (permit required): (-33.781345, 20.114627)
Avelon Springs (top) entrance (no permit required): (-33.765587, 20.116951)
access issues
The kloof can be entered from either side. You will need to buy a permit if you enter from the bottom of the kloof. Alternatively, if you enter from Avelon Springs, you can just tell security at the gate that you are a climber and enter for free.
1.8.1. Lover's Lane 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.784591, 20.116732
access issues
A fence was put up to prevent vagrants from sleeping over at the base which makes the crag inaccessible. The Slab (10) might still be available as it is on the side.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Aquaman
FA: M. Bush, 2008 | 31 | 9 | |||
2 |
★ Teenage Mutant
FA: C. van Zyl, 2002 | 25 | 6 | |||
3 |
★★ Impi
FA: M. Bush, 2008 | 33 | 6 | |||
4 |
★★ Death Penalty Blues
FA: D. Marshal, 2001 | 23 | 6 | |||
5 |
★ The Slab
Route is around the back of this sector FA: C. Bester, 2001 | 10 | 8 |
1.8.2. The Bastard 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.779683, 20.113122
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ 1st Shite
FA: H Rehm, 2010 | 21 | 5 | |||||
2 |
★ 2nd Shite
FA: M Rehm, 2010 | 18 | 4 |
1.8.3. Waterworld 17 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.776144, 20.116269
description
Steep!
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Monkey See Monkey Do
Set: Stuart Brown FA: R Brown, 2009 | 19 | 8 | |||||
2 |
★★ Arendsig
Set: Stuart Brown FA: R Brown, 2007 | 18 | 8 | |||||
3 |
★★ Walk On By
Set: Stuart Brown FA: R Brown, 2007 | 22 | 8 | |||||
4 |
★ Swamp Thing
Share the first 3 bolts with Walk on By, then split to the right and continue on the 12mm bolts. Climb mostly on the right of the bolts until coming back left for the chains. FA: Elle, Dec 2021 | 22 | 9 | |||||
5 |
★★ Some Would Say
Set: Stuart Brown FA: E Nell, 2013 | 26 | 6 | |||||
6 |
★★★ Simply Irresistable
Bouldery classic FA: Stuart Brown, 2007 | 27 | 5 | |||||
7 |
★★★ The Singularity
FA: Stuart Brown, 2010 | 29 | 5 | |||||
8 |
★★★ Firestarter!
FA: Stuart Brown, 2009 | 29 | 9 | |||||
9 |
★★★ My Route Down By The River
FA: Stuart Brown, 2009 | 31 | 10 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
10 |
★★★ Chongalolo
Set: M. Bush FA: C Roth, 2013 | 34 | 9 | |||||
11 |
★★★ The Italian Job
Linkup of Chongalolo and The Legend Of The Lost Italian Climber FA: C. Martinengo, 2018 | 34 | 11 | |||||
12 |
★★★ The Legend Of The Lost Italian Climber
https://www.climbing.co.za/2018/01/old-projects-opened-by-andrea-biffi-in-montagu/ FA: Andrea Biffi, Jan 2018 | 32 | 10 | |||||
13 |
★ Twist and Crawl
Set: Stuart Brown FA: C van Zyl, 2009 | 28 | 12 | |||||
14 |
★★ The Mission
FA: E February, 1996 | 25 | 5 | |||||
15 |
★★ The Mission (Whimp finish)
FA: E February, 1996 | 22 | ||||||
16 |
★ Sidewinder
FA: Stuart Brown, 2009 | 24 | 6 | |||||
17 |
★ Creepy Crawly
FA: Stuart Brown, 2009 | 20 | 6 |
1.8.4. The Penthouse 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.775685, 20.115609
description
Steep
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Hustler
FA: C Martinengo, Aug 2014 | 32 | 8 | |||
2 |
★ Pet of the Month
FA: J Samson, 1997 | 27 | 5 | |||
3 |
★★ Groping in the Dark
FA: Guy Holwill, 1997 | 24 | 4 |
1.8.5. Peanut Gallery 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.775791, 20.116979
description
Steep roofs.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Finding Ningo
About 20 meters left of 'The Excitables' FA: C. Martinengo, 2004 | 27 | 5 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★★ The Excitables
FA: Stuart Brown, 2010 | 26 | 7 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Humdinger
FA: Stuart Brown, 2006 | 27 | 6 | |||||
4 |
★★ The Passion
FA: M. Bush, 2009 | 32 | 5 | |||||
5 |
★ Good Day for Basketball
About 20 meters to the right of 'The Passion' FA: R. Holwill, 1997 | 22 | 4 |
1.8.6. Sloth Crag 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.775188, 20.117809
description
Features a multi-pitch route.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Sunshine Reggae
Abseil down the left set of chains to the middle stance. Unless you want to abseil directly down for 40 meters FA: Stuart Brown, 2002 | 16 | 40m, 2 | |||||
2 |
★ Just the Two of Us
FA: Stuart Brown, 2006 | 19 | 6 | |||||
3 |
★★ One for the Money
FA: Stuart Brown, 2002 | 17 | 5 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Rattle and Hum
FA: Stuart Brown, 2002 | 24 | 5 | |||||
5 |
★★ Beautiful Day
FA: J. Orton, 2002 | 25 | 5 | |||||
6 |
★★ Sloth
FA: Jeremy Samson, 1996 | 27 | 5 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★★ If I Stay There Will Be Trouble
Permadraws at the anchor FA: Stuart Brown, 2002 | 23 | 7 | |||||
8 |
★★ If I Go It Will Be Double
FA: Stuart Brown, 2002 | 24 | 14 | |||||
9 |
Throw the Chicken
FA: Stuart Brown, 2002 | 9 | 5 | |||||
10 |
★ Mediocre Youth
FA: M. Smigelskis, 2004 | 21 | 4 | |||||
11 |
★★ Two for the Show
FA: Stuart Brown, 2002 | 17 | 5 | |||||
12 |
★ Two for the Show Extension
FA: Stuart Brown, 2006 | 21 | 8 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
13 |
★★ Main Attraction
FA: Stuart Brown, 2006 | 22 | 8 | |||||
14 |
★★ Vision Thing
FA: Stuart Brown, 2003 | 23 | 12 |
1.8.7. Lion Said 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.774824, 20.117203
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Short Cut
FA: Stuart Brown, 2002 | 21 | 3 | |||||
2 |
★ Short Sharp Shock!
FA: Stuart Brown, 2002 | 23 | 3 | |||||
3 |
★ Come Short
Set: Stuart Brown FA: J. Temple-Forbes, 2002 | 25 | 3 | |||||
4 |
★ Hello Aloe
FA: Stuart Brown, 2002 | 15 | 13 | |||||
5 |
★★ Devil Speak
FA: K. Schumann, 1998 | 21 | 9 |
1.8.8. Supertubes 17 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.774668, 20.118220
description
Steep
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Wax My Gun and Have Some Fun
FA: T. Hyde, 1999 | 21 | 10m, 3 | |||||
2 |
★ The Dumper
FA: Stuart Brown, 2004 | 15 | 5 | |||||
3 |
Beach Break
FA: Stuart Brown, 2004 | 19 | 5 | |||||
4 |
★★ Whoa She Poopie
FA: J. Hawkins, 1998 | 29 | 8 | |||||
5 |
★★ Bad Poopie
Start on 'Rad and Bad', on to 'Point Break', then left past a new bolt to join at the crux of 'Whoa She Poopie'. Thanks to Willem le Roux for placing the bolt and Ruan for the name ;-) FA: phlip olivier, 2023 | 28 | 10 | |||||
6 |
★★★ Point Break
FA: J. Fisher, 1991 | 30 | 8 | |||||
7 |
★★ Bad Break
Start on 'Rad and Bad' then end on 'Point Break'. Makes for a much more mellow route, enjoying the 'Point Break' crux without the deep pump. | 28/29 | 10 | |||||
8 |
★★ Rad and Bad
FA: M. Roberts, 1991 | 28 | 6 | |||||
9 |
★ Leap Tide
FA: Stuart Brown, 2004 | 27 | 7 | |||||
10 |
★★ Surf & Turf
FA: Stuart Brown, 2005 | 23 | 5 | |||||
11 |
★★★ Thruster
FA: S. Maasch, 1992 | 26 | 5 | |||||
12 |
★ Triple Stringer
FA: S. Maasch, 1991 | 26 | 5 | |||||
13 |
★ J-Bay
FA: D. Wiemar, 1997 | 28 | 6 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
14 |
★★ Wipe-Out
FA: C. Martinengo, 2006 | 31 | 4 | |||||
15 |
★★ Hypoxia
FA: G. Horhager, 1996 | 29 | 5 | |||||
16 |
★ First Wave
FA: J. Ward, 1998 | 25 | 4 | |||||
17 |
★ The Circle of Life
FA: J. Marshall, 2010 | 25 | 6 |
1.8.9. Pipeline 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.774592, 20.119546
description
Steep
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Aura
Set: Guy Holwill, 1996 FA: M. Bush, 2013 | 33 | 10 | |||
2 |
★★★ Miss Behaving
Set: M. Bush FA: Sasha DiGiulian, 2013 | 33 | 9 | |||
3 |
Project 1
Set: S. Maasch, 1996 | 36 | 9 | |||
4 |
Project 2
Set: Jeremy Samson, 1999 | 36 | 9 |
1.8.10. South Park 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.773969, 20.120404
description
Steep
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Cartman Gets an Anal Probe
FA: C. Bruton, 1999 | 25 | 7 | |||
2 |
★★ Who Killed Kenny?
FA: S. Bradshaw (Jnr), 2000 | 27 | 5 |
1.8.11. The Palace 31 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.773236, 20.120857
description
Steep!
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Bad Cop, No Donut
Starts on the extreme left halfway up the slabs. FA: Jeremy Samson, 2004 | 24 | 5 | |||||
2 |
★ German Route
FA: Unknown | 22 | 5 | |||||
3 |
★ Fire Flight
FA: Charles Edelstein, Aug 2021 | 21 | 12 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Icarus
FA: Stuart Brown, 2010 | 23 | 12 | |||||
5 |
★ Virtual Light
FA: Elle, 2022 | 22 | 9 | |||||
6 |
★★ Elegantly Wasted
FA: J. Temple-Forbes, 1999 | 26 | 10 | |||||
7 |
★★ S1O2
FA: J. Orton, 2004 | 25 | 10 | |||||
8 |
★★ Lexi's Route
FA: Unknown | 25 | 7 | |||||
9 |
★★ Keep on Going
Extension of Lexi's Route FA: A. Davies, 2006 | 26 | 9 | |||||
10 |
★★★ Cyberpunk
FA: R. Nattrass, 1996 | 25 | 9 | |||||
11 |
★★ Cyber Angel
This line weaves its way in-between ‘Cyberpunk’ and 'Archangel' FA: Elle | 24 | ||||||
12 |
★★ Arch Angel
FA: Elle, 2020 | 27 | 10 | |||||
13 |
★★ Moonaboos
FA: J. Orton, 1999 | 27 | 10 | |||||
14 |
★ Count Zero
Start on Moonaboos. After the third bolt break right. FA: Elle, 6 Mar 2021 | 24 | 9 | |||||
15 |
★★ Shagadelic
FA: J. Orton, 2000 | 23 | 8 | |||||
16 |
★★ Shagadelic Supreme
Extension of Shagadelic FA: A. Davies, 2006 | 23 | 10 | |||||
17 |
★★ Darwin
FA: Elle, 2021 | 26 | 9 | |||||
18 |
★★ Burning Chrome
FA: R. Nattrass, 1995 | 28 | 14 | |||||
19 |
★★ Mona Lisa Overdrive
Extension of Burning Chrome FA: phlip olivier, 2017 | 29 | 17 | |||||
20 |
★★ Judge Dredd
FA: R. Nattrass, 1996 | 29 | 13 | |||||
21 |
★★ Judge Lisa
Start on Judge Dredd and finish on Mona Lisa Overdrive FA: Andrea Biffi, 2018 | 30 | 16 | |||||
22 |
★★★ Strange Days
FA: E. Wiercx, 1997 | 31 | 5 | |||||
23 |
★★ Strangely Active
Climb Strange Days and just before the anchors, move on to The Activist. FA: Unknown | 32 | 12 | |||||
24 |
★★ About Time
FA: C. Martinengo, 2004 | 27 | 12 | |||||
25 |
★★★ The Activist
FA: R. Nattrass, 1995 Maint: Elle, 25 Sep 2021 | 30 | 11 | |||||
26 |
★★★ The Neuromancer
FA: R. Nattrass, 1995 Maint: Elle, 6 May 2021 | 23 | 25m, 9 | |||||
27 |
★★ Johnny Pneumonic
FA: Elle, 2021 | 19 | 6 | |||||
28 |
★ Mad Max (wimp)
FA: Stuart Brown, 2002 | 13 | 7 | |||||
29 |
★★ Mad Max
Take slings to extend the anchors at the end of wimp FA: Stuart Brown, 2002 | 21 | 14 | |||||
30 |
★ Psycho Ranger (wimp)
FA: Stuart Brown, 2002 | 15 | 6 | |||||
31 |
★★ Psycho Ranger
Take slings to extend the anchors at the end of wimp FA: Stuart Brown, 2002 | 20 | 13 |
1.8.12. The Swamp 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.771848, 20.118517
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Gruff
FA: S. Bradshaw, 1995 | 26 | 4 | |||||
2 |
★ Route Do Me
FA: S. Maasch, 1994 | 27 | 4 | |||||
3 |
★ Gluttony
FA: Jeremy Samson, 1996 | 29 | 4 | |||||
4 |
★ Where Eagles Dare
FA: Stuart Brown, 2002 | 16 | 7 | |||||
5 |
There Lurks The Boogie-Man
FA: Stuart Brown, 2002 | 13 | 8 | |||||
6 |
★★ Disprin
This route is further up the crag FA: J. Temple-Forbes, 1996 | 25 | 10 |
1.8.13. The Playground 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.771896, 20.118198
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Jungle Gym Junkie
FA: Malcolm Gowans, 1993 | 18 | 12m, 4 | |||||
2 |
★ Jungle Jim
FA: Clive Curson, 1995 | 19 | 4 | |||||
3 |
★ See Saw
FA: Clive Curson, 1995 | 15 | 3 | |||||
4 |
★ The Jester
FA: R. Suter, 1992 | 24 | 3 | |||||
5 |
★★ Party-on Wayne
FA: Guy Holwill, 1993 | 25 | 3 | |||||
6 |
★ Jus Klup Ut
FA: Guy Holwill, 1993 | 27 | 3 | |||||
7 |
★ Powerplay
FA: E. February, 1995 | 25 | 4 | |||||
8 |
★★ Fun in the Sun
FA: Malcolm Gowans, 1994 | 22 | 3 |
1.8.14. Uriah Heep 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.771604, 20.116284
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Love Machine
FA: Paddy McCann, 1998 | 21 | 6 | |||||
2 |
★★★ Stealin'
FA: G. Hart, 1993 | 22 | 20m, 9 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Digital Bitch
FA: P. Becker, 1993 | 26 | 18m, 6 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Deamons and Wizards
FA: Guy Holwill, 1994 | 28 | 5 | |||||
5 |
★★ Easy Living
FA: D. Pothier, 1993 | 26 | 5 | |||||
6 |
★★ November Afternoon
Top jug broken off Jan 2013 FA: Guy Holwill, 1993 | 23 | 5 | |||||
7 |
★★★ July Morning
FA: Guy Holwill, 1993 | 22 | 5 | |||||
8 |
★★ Firefly
FA: Paddy McCann, 1998 | 19 | 6 | |||||
9 | Opening Party | 20 | ||||||
10 | Death Block | 21 |
1.8.15. The Arête 1 route in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.771722, 20.114556
description
Steep Arête
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Savage Me
FA: S. Downing, 1994 | 24 | 6 |
1.8.16. Worlds Apart 14 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.769867, 20.115384
description
Quite a pleasant crag with routes of varying quality and grades. The home of the first sport climbing route in Montagu.
approach
The easiest approach is from Avalon Springs. The flat walk-in takes around 5 minutes. Just follow the hiking path until you walk past the first rock wall on your left, this is Worlds Apart.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Reflections
FA: R. Suter, 1995 | 25 | 6 | |||||
2 |
★★ Total Reset
Extension of Delete Button Set: R. Suter FA: Andrea Biffi, 2018 | 28 | 9 | |||||
3 |
★★ Delete Button
FA: J. Colenso, 1993 | 26 | 6 | |||||
4 |
Formatted Rose
'Delete Button' onto 'Yankee Rose'. FA: Elle, 17 May 2023 | 29 | ||||||
5 |
★★ Yankee Rose
FA: J. Colenso, 1992 | 29 | 9 | |||||
6 |
★★ Voices
FA: J. Colenso, 1991 | 24 | 6 | |||||
7 |
★★★ Daze of Thunder
FA: Guy Holwill, 1991 Maint: Mountain Club of South Africa, 13 Apr 2018 | 28 | 9 | |||||
8 |
★★★ Rise of the Machines
Some holds have broken off since FA. FA: C. Martinengo, 2003 | 33 | 7 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 |
★ Whispering Echo
Climb left of the bolts FA: Stuart Brown, 2004 | 10 | 7 | |||||
10 |
★ Little Jack Horner
Climb right of the bolts. FA: Stuart Brown, 2004 | 15 | 7 | |||||
11 |
★ Kojak
FA: Stuart Brown, 2004 | 18 | 5 | |||||
12 |
★★ Rolling Stones
Maint: Stuart Brown FA: M. Jäger, 1992 | 24 | 6 | |||||
13 |
★★ Moves Like Jagger
FA: Stuart Brown, 2001 | 24 | 7 | |||||
14 |
★ Sukmeov
1st hanger missing. FA: D. Gawlowski, 1994 | 22 | 7 |
1.8.17. Jurassic Park 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.769465, 20.115613
approach
10 min walk from Avalon Springs
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Against the Grain
FA: J Samson, 1995 | 28 | 7 | |||||
2 |
★★★ Jabulani
FA: M. Bush FA: S Bradshaw Jnr., 1999 | 30 | 9 | |||||
3 |
Big Bad Voodoo
Set: S. Maasch | 7 | ||||||
4 |
Project
Set: S. Maasch | 6 | ||||||
5 |
★★★ Mazawattee
Set: Sean Maasch FFA: Adam Ondra, 2009 | 36 | 25m | |||||
6 |
★★★ Chai Tea
FA: C. Martinengo, 2013 | 32 | 17 | |||||
7 |
★★ Nugget Slab
Set: J Terblanche FFA: J Colenso & Guy Holwill, 1991 | 18 | 8 |
1.8.18. Berlin Wall 15 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.768990, 20.112970
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Bratwurst
Apparently a critical hold broke just below the anchor. It looks like a new bold has been placed to the left, to finish along the arete. Tricky end. FA: Elle, 2021 | 18 | 6 | |||||
2 |
★★ Der Tigerkönig / Tigerkonin
FA: Elle, 2021 | 21 | 8 | |||||
3 |
★★ Minefield
FA: M. Jäger, 1992 | 22 | 7 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Vays und Meenz
FA: M. Jager, 1992 | 24 | 11 | |||||
5 |
★★ Streef Boganoff
FA: Guy Holwill, 2002 | 24 | 9 | |||||
6 |
★★★ Hot Toddy Bension
FA: Guy Holwill, 1997 | 28 | 7 | |||||
7 |
★★ Rette den Esel
follows the crack in the corner just right of Hot Toddy Bension. FA: Elle, 26 Nov 2021 | 18 | 7 | |||||
8 |
★★ Brandenburg Gate
FA: M. Jager | 21 | 8 | |||||
9 |
★★ Ben Behaving Madly
FA: Guy Holwill, 1997 | 27 | 4 | |||||
10 |
★★ B-Day
FA: J. Lawson, 2005 | 22 | 8 | |||||
11 |
★★ Check Point Charley
FA: Stuart Brown, 2005 | 21 | 9 | |||||
12 |
★ Glasnost
FA: Stuart Brown, 2005 | 16 | 7 | |||||
13 |
★★ Blitzkrieg
FA: Stuart Brown, 2005 | 23 | 6 | |||||
14 |
★ Mein Schnitzel
FA: Elle, 2022 | 21 | 8 | |||||
15 |
★ Whirlin' Ball
FA: Elle, 2022 | 19 | 8 |
1.8.19. The Laundry 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.768488, 20.116474
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Super Blue
FA: J. Orton, 1998 | 24 | 5 | |||||
2 |
★★ Staysoft
FA: S. Downing, 1998 | 26 | 5 | |||||
3 | Project 1 | 6 | ||||||
4 | Project 2 | 4 |
1.8.20. Camelot 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.767295, 20.114989
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Gwenifer
FA: R. Brown, 2006 | 22 | 12 | |||||
2 |
★★ Excalibort
FA: Stuart Brown, 2006 | 23 | 11 |
1.8.21. The Rage 1 route in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.767194, 20.114702
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Bullet in the Head
FA: Guy Holwill, 1995 | 31 | 5 |
1.8.22. The Cave 1 route in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.766613, 20.114919
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
The Cave Route
Set: M. Bush | 10 |
1.8.23. The Hotel 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.766920, 20.116076
approach
On Hotel grounds.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ The Key
FA: Guy Holwill, 1997 | 27 | 6 | |||||
2 |
★★ The Bellboys, The Bellboys
FA: Guy Holwill, 1997 | 26 | 7 | |||||
3 |
★★ You Like Jamin?
FA: Stuart Brown, 2002 | 23 | 7 | |||||
4 |
★★ Rim Service
Don't use the bolt-on holds FA: Guy Holwill, 1997 | 24 | 6 | |||||
5 |
★ Rim Service With Bolt-on Holds
FA: Guy Holwill, 1997 | 16 | 6 |
1.8.24. Rehab Crag 20 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.767070, 20.114238
summary
The Rehab Crag has immaculate rock and is beautifully overhanging. The base requires a small scramble to get up to and is not child friendly. It's the crag that probably every climber has walked past and wondered if there was anything there. Finally, Sakkie Janse van Rensburg did the legwork and got this crag started. On the 1st January, 2023, the first route was opened there called Back Rehab Fest, a homage to comebacks. There is plenty of scope for hard lines on the right (which will go into shade mid-morning) and easier lines to the left.
Access from the Avalon Springs side of Bad Kloof. As you walk in, look for the sign that points to the right. You will cross the river and go up 3 flights of stairs. Break off to the left and walk along the ledge until the next gully. Head up the gully towards the obvious cave. The last bit is a scramble.
description
For more details see https://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/The_Consulting_Room
access issues
Currently none
approach
From the Avalon Springs Hotel enter Bad Kloof and follow the signs to the cave. After about 60 of the cement steps there will be a rock platform on your left. Leave the path onto the platform and at the cairn do the mini scramble up to the next level. Follow the cairns around the corner and up towards the crag.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Relapse
Area on the left. Go around the bulge on the left of the main area. Maillon halfway up to assist with cleaning. FA: Elle, 2023 | 24 | ||||||
2 |
★ Resilience
Starts up the slab right of Relapse and steps across left onto a stunning headwall. FA: Sakkie, 2023 | 18 | ||||||
3 |
Vertigo
Note that there are two sets of chains. Be sure to continue to the second set to complete the route. FA: Aria Janse van Rensburg, 2023 | 18 | 10 | |||||
4 |
Moonboot
FA: Sakkie, 2023 | 19 | 12 | |||||
5 |
★★ Pins and Needles
FA: E. Janse van Rensburg, 2023 | 20 | 9 | |||||
6 |
Pins and Laughter
Start on first 3 draws of 'Pins and Needles' and then continue on 'Laughter' to the chains. A nice variation of both lines. FA: Elle, 2023 | 20 | 9 | |||||
7 |
Laughter
FA: Elle, Mar 2023 | 22 | 9 | |||||
8 |
Snake Oil
FA: Elle, 6 Apr 2023 | 22 | 10 | |||||
9 |
Macrophage
FA: Sarel Janse van Rensburg, 2023 | 23 | 10 | |||||
10 |
★★★ Booster Shot
FA: Elle, 1 Feb 2023 | 26 | 10 | |||||
11 |
Back Rehab Feat
FA: Sakkie, 2023 | 25 | 12 | |||||
12 |
Elixir
See Elle's post on Instagram Grade to be confirmed FA: Elle, 19 Jan 2023 | 26 | 9 | |||||
13 |
Deep Heat
FA: Elle, 21 Apr 2023 | 26 | ||||||
14 |
Ice Man
Variation of 'Deep Heat'. Veers right after bolt 4 and joins back 3 bolts later. | 27 | 9 | |||||
15 |
Hypnotic
FA: Sakkie, Jan 2023 | 25 | 11 | |||||
16 |
Neurogenesis
Set: Olaf de Wet, 2023 FA: Olaf de Wet, Feb 2023 | 29 | 9 | |||||
17 |
Flex Apeal
Traverse in from 'Neurogenesis' (un-clipping 'Neurogenesis' quickdraws as you go to prevent rope drag). | 28 | 7 | |||||
18 |
★★★ Getafix
On the far right in the cave (before you get to the staples). FA: Sakkie, 2023 | 24 | 11 | |||||
19 |
Kinetic
Shares one bolt with 'Getafix' FA: Elle, 2023 | 23 | 9 | |||||
20 |
Placebo
Climbs first 5 bolts of 'Kinetic', splits off for 3 bolts and rejoins for last bolt and chains. FA: Elle, 2023 | 22 | 10 |
1.9. Donker Kloof 31 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.782708, 20.101508
1.9.1. The Cauldron 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.782465, 20.102234
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Devil's Playground
FA: Tony Lourens & Ed February, May 2020 | 21 | 40m, 2 | |||
2 |
★★ Ebola
FA: Clinton Martinengo, 2002 | 33 | 15m, 8 | |||
3 |
★★ Benita
Key holds have broken off FA: J Hawkins, 1997 | 33 | 5 | |||
4 |
★★ Switchbitch
Groundfall potential when clipping chains FA: Jeremy Colenso, 1993 | 31 | 12m, 5 | |||
5 |
★ Bronze Up
FA: Jeremy Colenso, 1994 | 30 | 12m, 3 | |||
6 |
Project
Open Project | 12m, 4 | ||||
7 |
★ Shad
FA: M Turkstra, 1996 | 31 | 12m, 4 |
1.9.2. The Slab 1 route in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.782833, 20.101176
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Scoo-pee-doo-bee-doo
FA: K. Schumann, 1997 | 17 | 12m, 8 |
1.9.3. The Scoop 22 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.783069, 20.100509
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Hold to Dreams
FA: Elle, Dec 2021 | 17 | 4 | |||
2 |
★ Flow Feels
FA: Elle, Dec 2021 | 16 | 5 | |||
3 |
★ Rock Cleavage
FA: E Maguire, 1996 | 22 | 15m, 5 | |||
4 |
★ Mangled Metal
FA: E Maguire, 1996 | 23 | 15m, 5 | |||
5 |
★ Archaeopteryx
FA: Jeremy Colenso, 1993 | 26 | 10m, 5 | |||
6 |
★★★ Neanderthal Rex
FA: D. Ward, 1993 | 27 | 15m, 8 | |||
7 |
★★ Twisted Steel and Sex Appeal
FA: A. Davies, 1995 | 29 | 15m, 6 | |||
8 |
★★★ Not For Sale
FA: S. Maasch, 1997 | 31 | 15m, 6 | |||
9 |
Soul Fly
Open | 34 | 15m, 8 | |||
10 |
★★★ Cool Like That
FA: Guy Holwill, 1994 | 29 | 15m, 7 | |||
11 |
★★ Monkey That
Climb the bottom crux of Monkey Pump up to the rail (3rd draw), then move left onto Ben Dover (clip its 4th draw) and climb up to its 6th (extend it), then traverse left onto Cool Like That at the big sloper height (4th draw) and climb up to the top. FA: Andrea Biffi, 2017 | 30 | 8 | |||
12 |
★★ Ben Dover
FA: B Harper, 2004 | 29 | 15m, 8 | |||
13 |
★★★ Monkeyed Over
Monkey Pump into Ben Dover FA: Andrea Biffi, 2017 | 30 | 8 | |||
14 |
★★ Ben Pump
Climb Ben Dover bottom crux up to the rail (4th draw) and then move right onto Monkey Pump. Fun climbing FA: Andrea Biffi, Apr 2018 | 29 | 8 | |||
15 |
★★★ Monkey Pump
FA: A. Davies, 1994 | 29 | 15m, 7 | |||
16 |
★★ Chomp
FA: Jeremy Samson, 1995 | 29 | 15m, 8 | |||
17 |
★★ Catholic Schoolgirls Rule
FA: J. Samson, 1996 | 30 | 15m, 8 | |||
18 |
★ Taste the Pain
Awaiting re-re-opening after some holds broke off (previously a 33) FA: S. Maasch, 1996 FA: F. Nicole, 2002 | 7 | ||||
19 |
★★★ The Optimist
FA: Jeremy Colenso, 1993 | 27 | 10m, 4 | |||
20 |
★★ Dark Heart
FA: J Hawkins, 2002 | 29 | 10m, 4 | |||
21 |
Project
Set: S. Bradshaw | 4 | ||||
22 |
★ Phoenix Rising
FA: Elle, Mar 2022 | 25 | 4 |
1.9.4. The Pinnacle 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Mitigating the Risk
FA: Charles Edelstein, 2020 | 22 | 7 |
1.10. The Farm 41 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.836597, 20.180257
summary
This is a very enjoyable crag with some great climbs.
access issues
Access is free. Just let the owners know that you are coming by emailing thefarmroute62@gmail.com.
Drive towards Barrydale from Montagu and keep an eye out for Guano Caves on the right, then travel another 1.4km. A gate with a sign reading "The Farm on R62" will be on your right (-33.829765, 20.193099). After the gate turn left and follow the path up towards a gate with a combination lock. Continue up the path until you reach a small parking lot next to a cement dam (-33.834874, 20.185834).
approach
The approach is an easy 15 minute hike to the first set of crags (The Farm Crag, Black Slab Sector and Graduation Wall). The other crags require some more walking and at times even a bit of scrambling.
|
1.10.1. The Farm Crag 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -33.835975, 20.181056
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Child in Time
FA: Tony Lourens, 2012 | 19 | 8 | |||||
2 |
★★★ Fields of Gold
FA: Tony Lourens, 2012 | 22 | 10 | |||||
3 |
★★ Top of the Morning
FA: Tony Lourens, 2012 | 20 | 14 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Cross Breed
FA: Hermie Venter, 2011 | 22 | 13 | |||||
5 |
★★ Toe Jam
FA: A. Caddy, 2011 | 20 | ||||||
6 |
★ Traditional Jam
FA: Hermie Venter, 2011 | 17 | ||||||
7 |
★★ Coffee Before Jam
FA: Hermie Venter, 2011 | 19 | 9 | |||||
8 |
★★ Little Farm Boy
FA: Hermie Venter, 2011 | 20 | 9 | |||||
9 |
★ Marmion Marmalade
FA: Hermie Venter, 2011 | 16 | 9 | |||||
10 |
★ Goes Like a Tractor
FA: A. Green, 2001 | 16 | ||||||
11 |
★★★ Reflections on Mirror Wall
FA: Hermie Venter, 2011 | 22 | 8 | |||||
12 |
Project
Loose Rock to be cleared Set: Hermie Venter | 17 |
1.10.2. Black Slab Sector 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.835586, 20.180616
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Pink is the New Black
FA: Hermie Venter, 2014 | 16 | 8 | |||||
2 |
★ Black Sparrow
FA: Hermie Venter, 2014 | 16 | 9 | |||||
3 |
★★ Black Pearl
FA: Hermie Venter, 2014 | 17 | 8 | |||||
4 |
★ The Flying Dutchmen
FA: J. Hayden, 2014 | 17 | 8 | |||||
5 |
★★ Lekker soos 'n Cracker
FA: Hermie Venter, 2014 | 17 | 53m, 2, 11 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★ Black Flags in the Sunset
FA: J. Hayden, 2014 | 19 | 8 | |||||
7 |
Farfallina
FA: Tony Lourens, 2014 | 18 | 9 | |||||
8 |
★ Long Way From Stellenbosch
FA: Hermie Venter, 2011 | 23 | 9 | |||||
9 |
★★ Polkadraai
FA: Hermie Venter, Apr 2016 | 18 | 9 |
1.10.3. Graduation Wall 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.835270, 20.180676
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Differentiation
FA: Hermie Venter, 2016 | 21 | 9 | |||||
2 |
★★ Integration
FA: Hermie Venter, 2016 | 20 | 9 | |||||
3 |
★★ Simple Harmonic Motion
FA: Hermie Venter, 2016 | 19 | 10 |
1.10.4. Pump'kin Sector 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.836627, 20.180281
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Pump'kin Pie
FA: Hermie Venter, 2011 | 21 | 6 | |||||
2 |
★★ I Need to Wee
FA: J. Hayden, 2014 | 12 | 9 |
1.10.5. God Child Sector 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.837436, 20.179932
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ The God Father
FA: Hermie Venter, 2011 | 25 | 14 | |||||
2 |
★★★ God Child
FA: Hermie Venter, 2011 | 22 | 13 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Jabba the Hut
FA: C Martinengo, Jul 2014 | 31 | 7 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Grip Daddy
FA: Hermie Venter, 2011 | 22 | 13 |
1.10.6. Awestruck Sunny Side 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.837572, 20.179068
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Citrus in Summertime
FA: Hermie Venter, 2012 | 18 | 9 | |||||
2 |
★★★ Buff-knee the Vertical Slayer
FA: A Green & Hermie Venter, 2011 | 22 | 13 |
1.10.7. Awestruck Shady Side 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.837655, 20.178965
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Talk is Cheap
FA: C. Caddy, 2011 | 24 | 9 | |||||
2 |
★★★ 'n Boer Maak 'n Plan
FA: Hermie Venter, 2011 | 22 | 9 | |||||
3 |
★★ Awestruck
FA: Hermie Venter, 2011 | 22 | 12 |
1.10.8. Trinity Sector 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.837064, 20.180903
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ The Reeperbahn
Grade consensus pending. See ClimbZA post. Climb first pitch of Trinity or scramble around from the right. The Reeperbahn starts 7 meters left of Trinity. FA: Justin Lawson & Dieter Braun, Jun 2021 | 22 | 33m, 14 | |||||
2 |
★★ Trinity
Warning Fixed Gear: Damaged Bolt
FA: Hermie Venter, May 2016 | 21 | 75m, 3 |
1.10.9. Whisper Wall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Whisper
Set: Hermie Venter, 2024 | 28 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★★ Cartwheels in Paradise
FA: Hermie Venter Set: Hermie Venter, 2024 | 26 | 10m, 5 | |||||
3 |
★★ The Naked Bushman
FA: Hermie Venter, 2023 | 24 | 11m, 6 | |||||
4 |
★★ Boerkini Lounge
FA: Hermie Venter, 2023 | 25 | 11m, 7 |
1.11. Oorlogs Kloof 55 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.716966, 19.982868
access issues
Access is sensitive. Don't climb here without permission from the landowner.
According to climb.za an agreement has been reached with the landowner in principle. Access is currently in a trial period while admin and logistics are being finalised.
To arrange access faceback IM “Oorlogs Kloof Mountain Retreat - Montagu”. Cash access fee charged. Confirm fee and exit time when arranging access.
1.11.1. Le Pique-nique Sector 11 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.717243, 19.979715
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Whack & Dangle Slab | ||||||||
2 |
★★ The Great Scrub
Route on left hand side of the Whack and Dangle Buttress FA: Paddy McCann, 2002 | 16 | 40m, 2, 9 | |||||
3 |
★★ Whack and Dangle
FA: P Uys & I Uys, 1989 | 16 | 8 | |||||
Mischief Slot | ||||||||
5 |
★★ Mischief and Thuggery
left wall left route FA: Paul Schlotfeldt, 1989 | 26 | 10 | |||||
6 |
★★★ The Dream I Knew
left wall middle route FA: Steve Bradshaw Sr., 1992 | 32 | 10 | |||||
7 |
★★★ Where I Stood
left wall right route FA: S. Bradshaw snr, 2012 | 33 | 13 | |||||
8 |
★ Let's Face It
right wall FA: Sean Maasch, 1990 | 23 | 6 | |||||
Le Pique-nique Wall | ||||||||
10 |
★★ Scarfoot
FA: Guy Holwill, 1990 | 20 | 10 | |||||
11 |
★★ Le Pique-nique
FA: Paul Schlotfeldt, 1989 | 21 | 10 | |||||
12 |
★★★ Stinky Cheese
FA: P McCann, 2003 | 18 | 12 | |||||
RightThe following routes are on the wall around to the right on the wall facing the path up. | ||||||||
14 |
Vin Sec
A cairn indicates the start in the middle of the face. Stance in a pod, step left and climb the face to the top. FA: I Uys & P Uys, 1989 | 15 | ||||||
15 |
Vin Doux
Two shortish pitches climbing the right hand face and arete. FA: D Schlotfeldt & Paul Schlotfeldt, 1989 | 15 |
1.11.2. Wildcard Buttress 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.718131, 19.983283
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Project
Open Project Maint: J. Simpson, 2004 | 27m | ||||
2 |
★★ L`Abraxas
FA: J. Fisher, 1991 Maint: M. Bush, 2011 | 31 | 30m, 12 | |||
3 |
★★★ Wild Card
FA: Paul Schlotfeldt, 1989 Maint: Tony Lourens, 2002 | 24 | 20m, 7 | |||
4 |
★ Sticky Seconds
FA: M. Roberts, 1991 | 26 | 6 |
1.11.3. Snark Buttress 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.717524, 19.981314
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Peace Frog
Maint: Mark Johnston FA: Jeremy Samson, 1989 | 19 | 10m, 3 | |||
2 |
Toad in the Hole
Toprope the dihedral FA: Prof Steve Bradshaw & Jeremy Samson | |||||
3 |
★ As I am
FA: S. Bradshaw (snr), 2010 | 31 | 10m, 4 | |||
4 | Maaak | 22 | 10m, 5 | |||
5 |
★ Pigs on the Pallete
FA: Jeremy Samson, 1989 | 21 | 7 | |||
6 |
★ Full English Breakfast
FA: Steve Bradshaw Sr., 2002 | 26 | 10m, 8 | |||
7 |
★★ Omelette
FA: Jeremy Samson, 1989 | 26 | 10m, 5 | |||
8 |
★ Eggs
Maint: Guy Holwill FA: Jeremy Colenso, 1989 | 25 | 10m, 5 | |||
9 |
★ English Breakfast
FA: Guy Holwill, 2002 | 22 | 10m, 5 | |||
10 |
★ Bacon
FA: Jeremy Samson, 1989 | 25 | 5 | |||
11 |
★ Brutality
FFA: Clinton Martinengo, 2012 | 33 | 10m, 5 | |||
12 |
★ The Pig Must Die
Maint: Steve Bradshaw Sr., 1989 FA: Jeremy Samson, 1989 | 25 | 10m, 6 |
1.11.4. Canasta Buttress 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -33.717648, 19.984415
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Joker
The obvious west facing crack that one can see from below. The route is not on the Canasta Wall itself. | 18 | ||||
2 |
★★ The Golden Sickle
The curving line on the left side of the wall. FA: Guy Holwill, 1991 FA: Clinton Martinengo, 2012 | 27 | 4 | |||
3 |
Project
Closed Set: Steve Bradshaw, 2013 | 5 | ||||
4 |
★★ Maverick
The obvious undercling/layback flake in the center of the crag. This route was originally climbed on preplaced wires. FA: Jeremy Samson, 1989 Maint: Guy Holwill, 1991 FA: Clinton Martinengo, 2012 | 25 | 6 | |||
5 |
★★ Colin Mozart the Demented Puppet
Start up the ramp (terrifying) then break out right at the first bolt, continue up the wall past a second bolt to the chains. FA: Guy Holwill, 1991 FA: Clinton Martinengo, 2012 | 24 | 5 | |||
6 |
★ Canasta
Climb the obvious finger crack on the right hand side of the wall. FA: Jeremy Colenso, 1989 Maint: Clinton Martinengo, 2012 | 27 | 5 | |||
7 |
Five Card Trick
The short crack right of Canasta. Bolted? FA: Guy Holwill, 1990 | 21 | ||||
8 |
Ace of Spades
The short crack right of Five Card Trick. Bolted? FA: Andy Davies, 1990 | 21 |
1.11.5. Buttock Buttress 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.716714, 19.985283
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Flaring Buttocks
FA: Steve Bradshaw Sr., 1992 | 24 | 5 | |||
2 |
★ Flash in the Pan
FA: Andy Davies, 1992 | 24 | 5 |
1.11.6. Maverick Wall 0 routes in Cliff
1.11.7. Meatloaf Wall 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.718717, 19.982805
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Meatloaf
FA: A. Davies, 1991 | 26 | 10m, 4 |
1.11.8. Cuts Both Ways and Cowboy Area 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.717474, 19.981117
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Cowboy Sector | ||||||||
2 |
★ I Wanna be a Cowboy
Very old bolts FA: Jono Fisher, 1991 | 27 | 12 | |||||
3 |
Project
Open Project Very old bolts | 20m | ||||||
Cuts Both Ways Sector | ||||||||
5 |
★ The Red Wine Calorie King
Very old bolts FA: Jono Fisher, 1991 | 26 | 4 | |||||
6 |
★★ Cuts Both Ways
Very old bolts FA: Jeremy Samson, 1989 | 26 | 6 |
1.11.9. Tower of Babel 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.719343, 19.983174
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Fall From Grace
FA: M. van der Westhuizen, 2006 | 23 | 15m, 7 | |||
2 |
★★ Lost in Translation
FA: Guy Holwill, 2006 | 26 | 16m, 7 | |||
3 |
Project
Closed Maint: S. Downing | 26m, 10 | ||||
4 |
★★ Soulja
FA: S. Downing, 2006 | 24 | 25m, 10 | |||
5 |
Project 2
Closed Maint: S. Downing | 26m, 12 |
1.11.10. Seamster Wall 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.717377, 19.980448
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Seamster
The left hand line. You can step onto the shoulder at 2/3rd height. FA: Clinton Martinengo, 2013 | 29 | 10 | |||
2 |
★★★ Seamstress
The right hand line. FA: Clinton Martinengo, 2015 | 34 | 25m, 10 | |||
3 |
★★★ The Tailor
The red line. FA: C. Martinengo, Sep 2014 | 27 | 20m, 8 |
1.11.11. Flaring Buttocks Area 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Flaring Buttocks
FA: Steve Bradshaw Sr., 1992 | 24 | 8 | |||
2 |
Flash in the Pan
FA: Andy Davies, 1992 | 24 | 8 |
1.11.12. Sleepless Wall 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
A moon shaped wall with a crack splitting the wall down the middle.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Sleepless Nights
Climb the crack to a stance at the top. To descend, scramble up and left to where decent becomes easy. FA: Paul Schlotfeldt, P Uys & I Uys, 1989 | 19 |
1.11.13. Beethovens Wall 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
Further up the hill from the Canasta area is a gully with a steep wall on the right hand side. Two prominent cracks are visible.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Living the Good Years
The left hand crack exiting right. Rapp point on the right. FA: C Roy & Paul Schlotfeldt, 1989 | 20 | ||||
2 |
The Fifth Symphony
Climb the right hand crack tending left at the top. Rapp off the tree on the left (the 2001 topo mentions a tree) FA: C Roy & Paul Schlotfeldt, 1989 | 21 |
1.12. The Sanctuary 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -33.801839, 20.098556
approach
Approach via The Steeple. Follow tracks along the river.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Tattered Outlaw of the Earth
FA: Tony Lourens & Dave Webster, Mar 2020 | 19 | 55m, 2 | |||||
2 |
★ Save the Donkey
FA: Tony Lourens & Garvin Jacobs, Aug 2020 | 17 | 40m, 2 | |||||
3 |
Violetta
FA: Tony Lourens & Willie Koen, Sep 2020 | 18 | 25m | |||||
4 |
★★ Donkey Serenade
FA: Tony Lourens & Dave Webster, Feb 2020 | 17 | 75m, 3 | |||||
5 |
★★ Little Miss Daisy
3rd pitch variation to Donkey Serenade. In the middle of the 3rd pitch keep left and finish at the same anchors. FA: Tony Lourens & Rex Quick, Sep 2020 | 17 | 80m | |||||
6 |
★★ Piglet the Puglet
3rd pitch variation to Donkey Serenade. At the start of the 3rd pitch, keep left of both Donkey Serenade and Little Miss Daisy, finish at the same anchors. FA: Tony Lourens & Rex Quick | 17 | 75m | |||||
7 |
Piglet the Puglet Alt
3rd pitch variation to Donkey Serenade. Climb as for Piglet the Puglet until you get to the white streak then continue as for Little Miss Daisy. | 17 | 75m |
1.13. Lost World 0 routes in Crag
summary
access issues
Access is closed unless you are staying at the GALENIA guest farm.
1.14. Guano Caves 72 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -33.832865, 20.173339
1.14.1. Batt Wall 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.832943, 20.174564
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Robin
FA: J. Peery & Jan Fischer, Jan 2016 | 20 | 4 | |||
2 |
★★★ Batman
FA: J. Peery & Jan Fischer, Feb 2016 | 28 | 10 | |||
3 |
★ Joker
FA: C. van Rooyen & Jan Fischer, Jan 2016 | 22 | 8 |
1.14.2. Main Wall 0 routes in Sector
1.14.3. Bat Wing Buttress 0 routes in Sector
1.14.4. Rock 'n Roll Kloof 69 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
summary
A fun new area with some moderate routes
access issues
Pay at the gate to enter (R50 in 2023)
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Floyd Sector-Obscured Wall | ||||||||
2 |
★★ Obscured by Clouds
FA: T. Lourens, Aug 2023 | 20 | 11 | |||||
3 |
★★ Comfortably Numb
FA: T. Lourens, Aug 2023 | 19 | 9 | |||||
4 |
★★ Dark Side of the Moon
FA: T. Lourens, Nov 2023 | 22 | 9 | |||||
5 |
Pulse
Follow right variation.Left is an open project FA: Hans n Hans, Dec 2023 | 25 | 8 | |||||
6 |
★★ Mother
FA: Garvin Jacobs, HP Bakker & T. Lourens, Jul 2023 | 21 | 40m, 2 | |||||
7 |
★★★ Fearless
Starts from the wooden platform FA: Garvin Jacobs, Aug 2023 | 24 | 16 | |||||
8 |
★★ Stay
Starts on the right side of the wooden platform FA: Garvin Jacobs, Aug 2023 | 25 | 14 | |||||
Floyd Sector - Crazy Diamond Tower | ||||||||
10 |
★★ Echoes
FA: T. Lourens, Jul 2023 | 21 | 9 | |||||
11 |
★ Goodbye Blue Sky
FA: T. Lourens, Jul 2023 | 18 | 10 | |||||
12 |
★★ Saucerful of Secrets
FA: T. Lourens, Jul 2023 | 20 | 13 | |||||
13 |
★★★ Welcome to the Machine
FA: T. Lourens, Jul 2023 | 20 | 35m, 20 | |||||
14 |
★★★ Wish You Were Here
FA: T. Lourens, Aug 2023 | 21 | 35m, 20 | |||||
15 |
★ Have a Cigar
FA: T. Lourens, Sep 2023 | 19 | 10 | |||||
16 |
Another Brick in the Wall
FA: T. Lourens & M. Beamont, Aug 2023 | 17 | 40m, 2 | |||||
17 |
★★★ Breathe
This route is on the back of the Crazy Diamond Tower. Scramble up the gulley between the Crazy Diamond Tower and the Shine on Prow until you get to an obvious slab of rock. Traverse left into a break, then follow the crack system diagonally up and right to the top of the tower. FA: Matthew Robinson, Feb 2024 | 22 | ||||||
Floyd Sector - Shine on Prow - Left | ||||||||
19 |
★★★ The Endless River
Start up a corner then right to some blocky terrain. Follow the arcing crack left and then easily up to anchors. FA: Richard Halsey, Nov 2023 | 17 | 34m | |||||
20 |
★★★ The Division Bell
A very straight line up the face, passing the large cream flake on it's right, then up right side of face. Tricky move over to gain ledge then straight to anchor. FA: Richard Halsey, Nov 2023 | 19 | 34m | |||||
21 |
★ Sheep
FA: T. Lourens & HP Bakker, Sep 2023 | 16 | 20m | |||||
Floyd Sector - Shine on Prow - Front | ||||||||
23 |
★★ Pigs (3 Different Ones)
FA: T. Lourens, Sep 2023 | 19 | 8 | |||||
24 |
★★ Dogs
FA: HP Bakker & T. Lourens, Sep 2023 | 18 | 30m | |||||
25 | ★★ Shine On | 21 | 13 | |||||
Floyd Sector - Shine on Prow - Right | ||||||||
27 |
Empty Spaces
FA: T. Lourens, Oct 2023 | 19 | 13 | |||||
28 |
★★★ Interstellar Overdrive
FA: T. Lourens, Oct 2023 | 20 | 11 | |||||
29 |
The Wall
It's recommended to pre-clip to the second bolt. FA: J. Munk, Oct 2023 | 23 | 11 | |||||
Mirage Wall | ||||||||
31 |
Super Twister
First moves may be tricky for short people. FA: T. Lourens | 22 | 17 | |||||
Metal HavenScramble further up the gully, hugging the left hand wall. | ||||||||
33 |
Come Out and Play
FA: Elle, Mar 2024 | 21 | 5 | |||||
34 |
Thunderstruck
Shares chains with 'Come Out and Play' FA: Elle, Mar 2024 | 22 | 4 | |||||
35 |
Enter Sandman
Set: Brenda Marx, Nov 2023 | 22 | 6 | |||||
36 |
Nitro
Shares first bolt with 'Enter Sandman' and then goes right. End in laybacks on the right. FA: Elle, Apr 2024 | 21 | 7 | |||||
37 |
Project bolted by Elle
Harder variation to 'Nitro'. Splits right at 7th bolt. Set: Elle, 2024 | 9 | ||||||
38 |
★★★ The Beautiful People
FA: Richard Halsey, Dec 2023 | 23 | 8 | |||||
39 |
★★★ Invincible
Nice flake to start with and a sting in the tail. Set: Richard Halsey FA: Richard Halsey, Nov 2023 | 25 | 10 | |||||
40 |
★★★ Shadow Kings
FA: Richard Halsey, Jan 2024 | 23 | 8 | |||||
41 |
★★ Last Ride of the Day
FA: Richard Halsey, 2023 FA: Richard Halsey, 2023 | 23 | 9 | |||||
42 |
Yukon
Link-up that avoids the desperate start on 'Awake' Set: Richard Halsey FA: Richard Halsey, Nov 2023 | 23 | 11 | |||||
43 |
Digital Bath
Link up from Awake to Last Ride of the Day. Extra bolt indicates where to move left. Consensus grading needed. FA: Richard Halsey, Nov 2023 | 28 | 10 | |||||
44 |
The Awakening
Easier, left version to 'Awake' that shares crack with 'Last Ride of the Day'. Too far from original 3rd bolt so new bolt will be added. FA: Richard Halsey, Nov 2023 | 26 | 10 | |||||
45 |
★★ Awake
Does not use left crack. Consensus grading needed. Set: Richard Halsey, 2023 FA: Richard Halsey, 2023 | 28 | 10 | |||||
46 |
Honking Antelope
Starts on first 3 bolts of 'The Awakening' and then climbs right. FA: B. Theron, May 2024 | 26 | 9 | |||||
47 |
★★★ Take a Look Around
FA: Richard Halsey, Dec 2023 | 24 | 9 | |||||
48 |
★★★ Wherever I May Roam
Set: Richard Halsey, 2023 FA: Richard Halsey, 2023 | 28 | 9 | |||||
49 |
★★ Got the Life
Set: Richard Halsey, 2023 FA: Richard Halsey, 2023 | 24 | 12 | |||||
50 |
★★★ The Hunt
FA: Richard Halsey, Nov 2023 | 27 | 12 | |||||
51 |
★★★ Ghost River
Left companion to 'Devil’s Dance'. Set: Richard Halsey FA: Richard Halsey, Dec 2023 | 27 | 11 | |||||
52 |
Devil's Dance
Set: Richard Halsey, 2023 FA: Richard Halsey, 2023 | 28 | 10 | |||||
53 |
All Within My Hands
FA: J. Temple-Forbes, Mar 2024 | 28 | 12 | |||||
54 |
Symphonies of Sickness
P1. 20m 24: At the very top of Metal Haven it steepens into a chimney on the right. On the right wall are two crack lines. Symphony of Sickness takes the right hand one, which splits a smooth white face at the top. FA: G. Bird & D. Le Roux, Apr 2024 | 24 | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Crash Diet SectorApproach: On entering the Rock ’n Roll valley the line is obvious a little ways up the left slope past Metal Haven. Follow cairns to the base. | ||||||||
56 |
★★ Guns ‘n Roses
Start on the front of the prow just left of the bolted crack route. Follow the line of least resistance into the left facing dihedral crack above. Descent: Step to the right and abseil of the bolted lower offs above the bolted crack line. FA: Charles Edelstein & M. Straughan, 18 May | 19 | 25m | |||||
Raging Slab | ||||||||
58 |
Don't Dog Me
Follow the discontinued crack, takes good gear. P1. 25m 23? FA: Richard Halsey & T. Lourens, Feb 2024 | 23 | ||||||
21st Century ButtressThis buttress is the 50-metres-high bastion just to the left of the huge 'Supertramp Buttress'. | ||||||||
60 |
Moonchild
FA: G. Jacobs & T. Lourens, Mar 2024 | 19 | 2, 9 | |||||
61 |
The Devil's Triangle
FA: T. Lourens & G. Jacobs, Mar 2024 | 17 | 45m, 2 | |||||
62 |
Schizoid Man
FA: G. Jacobs & T. Lourens, Mar 2024 | 21 | 50m, 2 | |||||
Supertramp Buttress | ||||||||
64 |
Crisis What Crisis?
Shares the start with 'Breakfast in America'. Can be done in one long pitch, then lower off in two.
FA: T. Lourens & G. Jacobs, Jan 2024 | 22 | 40m, 2, 12 | |||||
65 |
Breakfast in America
FA: T. Lourens & G. Jacobs, Jan 2024 | 18 | 40m, 2 | |||||
66 |
Asylum
FA: Richard Halsey & Elle, Jan 2024 | 18 | 25m | |||||
67 |
★★ Crime of the Century
FA: T. Lourens, Richard Halsey & R. Strate, 24 May 2023 | 19 | 90m, 4 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
The Black Sabbath SectorThe Black Sabbath sector encompasses the first 2 buttresses on the right as you approach the Rock n Roll valley. The first buttress is single pitch and ends on top of a small pinnacle where there is a lower off. The second buttress rises from the ground as a thin fin that ends on top of a spectacular pinnacle with a knife edge summit. There are 3 routes on the first buttress of which 2 are trad and one is bolted. There are 8 routes on the second buttress. All are 3 pitch and top out on the pinnacle ±100m above the valley floor. | ||||||||
69 |
★★★ Babaji
Descent: A single abseil brings you to easy scrambling around 7m above the ground. FA: Charles Edelstein & D. Webster, Mar 2024 | 21 | 75m, 3 | |||||
70 |
Dreamer
Can be done in 2 pitches (intended as one pitch though). 80 meter rope required (or 70/60 meter gets you to lower off-chains). FA: B. Theron, Jan 2024 | 22 | 40m, 17 | |||||
71 |
Child of Vision
Starts on the first section of 'Dreamer' then move right on the headwall. 80 meter rope required (or 70/60 meter gets you to lower off-chains). FA: B. Theron, Mar 2024 | 23 | 40m, 18 | |||||
72 |
★★★ Cést Le Bon
6 Stars.
Descent: A single 50+ meter abseil gets you to ground. It is useful to lower the second to facilitate rope management as the ropes fall into a tree if tossed. Or toss the first half of the ropes and keep the next half with you to toss once at the tree in the gully. (Yes the lower off could have been further left but it is super useful to lean back on the belay to scope the following climber(s). FA: Charles Edelstein & M. Straughan | 23 | 55m, 2 | |||||
73 |
★★★ Iron Man
Descent: Abseil 60m from the pinnacle off a threaded chain. Then abseil from the bolted anchor at the second stance on Iron Man. FA: Charles Edelstein & A. De Decker, Feb 2024 | 21 | 90m, 3 | |||||
74 |
★★★ War Pigs
Start: War Pigs starts in common with “Into the Void”. It ascends the steep jam crack to stance in common with Iron Man. From there it moves back right to continue up the crack system to stance in common with Iron Man and Into the Void at the bolted lower off anchor. The final pitch is common with War Pigs to ascend the pinnacle.
FA: Charles Edelstein & Brent Russell, Apr 2024 | 21 | 85m, 3 | |||||
75 |
★★★ Into the Void
FA: Charles Edelstein, D. Webster & Willem le Roux | 21 | 80m, 3 | |||||
76 |
★★ Hand Of Doom
Start just to the right of War Pigs and Into the Void start by avoiding the easy initial recess and climb the rib to its right.
FA: Charles Edelstein & Brent Russell, May 2024 | 22 | 65m, 2 | |||||
77 |
★★ Paranoid
Start: Scramble up about 15m the gully to a ledge system and belay at the base of whitish rock with a rock rib at its right end.
FA: Charles Edelstein & mark straughan, Apr 2024 | 21 | 60m, 3 | |||||
78 |
★★★ Psycho Man
5 Star Scramble up the gully past the start of Paranoid and start below the right facing corner feature.
FA: Charles Edelstein & Brent Russell, Apr 2024 | 21 | 2 | |||||
79 |
★★★ Master Of Reality
5 Star FA C Edelstein (TR) Start is below the crack to the right of 'Psycho Man'.
FA: Charles Edelstein & Brent Russell, Apr 2024 | 22 | 60m, 2 | |||||
80 |
★★ Master Of Insanity
5 Star
FA: Charles Edelstein & Duncan Edelstein, Apr 2024 | 21 | 60m, 2 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
81 |
★★ Black Dog
The route climbs the front of the “Hard Rock Cafe” buttress to the right of “Stairway to Heaven” in two pitches.
Descent. Abseil of the rope tat past the sport routes of Hard Rock Cafe and then carefully far as the rope allows. Take cover when pulling down the rope as loose rocks may came down with it. FA: Charles Edelstein & Brent Russell, Apr 2024 | 20 | 75m, 2 |