Routes in Montagu for selected grade

Longer than 30m

Photo

1. [9B,C]

2. [14B,C]

Combine 'Sheik Yerbouti' with Central Scrutinizer.

Illona Pelser

Closed Project

1. 15 Bolts; Starts to the left of 'Castles in the Sky'

2. 12 Bolts; Right of 'Castles in the Sky'

Descent: Lower off the chains ±7m to the neck, then scramble up and off the back.

This route has long runouts

1. 4 bolts

2. 6 bolts

3. 4 bolts

4. 4 bolts

Advisable to use double ropes to reduce drag.

Advisable to use double ropes to reduce drag.

1. 10 bolts

2. 10 bolts

3. 9 bolts

4. 14 bolts

'Toto' and 'Scooby Doo' have the same start and diverge at the large break. The start is bouldery with a 6C boulder move. The easiest start to get to the break is on 'Dog Food'.

'Toto' and 'Scooby Doo' have the same start and diverge at the large break. The start is bouldery with a 6C boulder move. The easiest start to get to the break is on 'Dog Food'.

Pull on the draw at the stopper move around the 3rd bolt.

Permadraws at the anchor

Video

Extension of Shagadelic

Top jug broken off Jan 2013

Shares one bolt with 'Getafix'

right wall

It's recommended to pre-clip to the second bolt.

Link-up that avoids the desperate start on 'Awake'

Follow the discontinued crack, takes good gear.

P1. 25m 23?

Starts on the first section of 'Dreamer' then move right on the headwall. 80 meter rope required (or 70/60 meter gets you to lower off-chains).

1. [20] 20m

   Climb the corner to the right of 'Dreamer' to the creeper. At this level move left onto the face on juglets and crank steeply to a stance in a recess down and right from the lower off on 'Dreamer' 1st pitch.

2. [23] 35m

   From the stance, head for the crack to the right conveniently clipping the first two bolts on Dreamer but use extension slings. Climb the crack steeply to a ledge. Continue up the thin crack to the stance. Small cams are useful at the top.

6 Stars.

This is one of the best trad pitches of its kind you will find anywhere in the world. It is heady, thin, engaging and very technical but not especially pumpy and with excellent pro. No single move is harder than 21 but most are about that grade and collectively makes up the grade of 23.

Descent: A single 50+ meter abseil gets you to ground. It is useful to lower the second to facilitate rope management as the ropes fall into a tree if tossed. Or toss the first half of the ropes and keep the next half with you to toss once at the tree in the gully. (Yes the lower off could have been further left but it is super useful to lean back on the belay to scope the following climber(s).