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Ascents in Glarner Alpen as Red point by Andreas Aachen

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Showing all 87 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sun 16th Jun 2024 - Nordgalerie
Mindgame
7a+ Nonam Sport 25m Very Good
Wed 8th May 2024 - Gäsi
Mitte
7c+ Easy Happy Feet - with Mr C, Mr M Sport 30m Classic
Engaging climbing on stellar rock quality, where body positioning and esp. good footwork are key.

As always in Gäsi, seems tricky until you understand what needs to be done

 
Wed 1st May 2024 - Nordgalerie
Trolok
7b+ Ambositra P1 - with Xa4
1 7b+ 20m Sport
Sport 20m Classic
Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Gäsi
Links
7c El Xipiron - with Mr C Sport 25m Very Good
The crossover / fall into the right hand sidepull is such an outrageous and unlikely move...Super cool when it comes together.

Not physically hard, but good body tension is key.

 
Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Gäsi
Mitte
7c ~7c Discombobulated - with Sara_S Sport 30m Very Good
A fun journey this one.

Rapped over it last year to clean it thinking it was Dschungelpfad. Now it turned out, the SAC Glanerland guidebook has this one and its neighbor confused, and this was the old project (I guess now, in hindsight, it makes sense why the grade was no-where near the suggested 7a 😉)

Removed the trees, cleaned the route, and added the missing bolt and anchor. It’s actually really nice to climb.

A bit of a puzzling crux down low (at least for me) where you do about 6 moves without gaining any height (but might be easier/ different if you can reach a bit higher from the ramp). Middle part is fun climbing and then another tricky section around the last bolt, with the typical Gäsi Shenanigans.

Grade needs confirmation.

 
Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Plattenwald
Trollfels
7c+ Desperado - with Jascha Sport 22m Classic
Brilliant climb, the best at Trollfels imho. stacked little boulder problems interrupted by descent rests.

Felt hard today in tropical conditions.

 
Thu 31st Aug 2023 - Plattenwald
Plattenwand
7c+ ~7c Wolfsspur - with Jascha Sport Very Good
nice technical route, not too hard with the right sequence.

 
Fri 4th Aug 2023 - Nordgalerie
Hauptwand
7b Duha - with Mari Sport 30m Classic
Messed up the onsight at the last hard bit, but was a really cool fight. Classic Route.

 
Wed 5th Jul 2023 - Plattenwald
Moriskenburg
8a ~7c+ Parzival - with Mr C Sport 35m Classic
A bit contrived. But once you accepted to go straight over the bolts and dont use the good stuff on the left its actually the better line! Still more 7c+ I think

 
Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Plattenwald
Moriskenburg
7c Parzival Links - with Mr C Sport 35m Very Good
Sun 28th May 2023 - Gäsi
Rechts
8a+ Senseless - with Henri, Manu, Mari, Mark Sport 45m Classic
I can stop bashing my head against the wall now

Sensorium in itself is already a classic, and this extension makes it even better. Hard to get established to the first bolt, then some fun resistance climbing to the crux...Its all about arriving with enough energy at those slimpers...

In order to send this I had to have Sensorium so dialed, that I could do it as a warm-up; and ended up sending Sensorium 3 times in one day

 
Wed 24th May 2023 - Plattenwald
Plattenkreuz
7b Street Parade - with Mari Sport 25m Good
Sat 6th May 2023 - Deponie
Hauptsektor
7b Saltamonte - with Chris Sport 30m Very Good
Nice route! Longest at the crag.

 
Tue 13th Sep 2022 - Gäsi
Rechts
8a+ Easy Pororoca - with Manu Sport 25m Good
Not as good as other routes on this wall but has some cool sequences. Unfortunately, its always a bit dirty which makes the footholds very slippery.

 
Sat 27th Aug 2022 - Plattenwald
Moriskenburg
7b Burgfräulein - with Gillian Sport 35m Classic
Remember that I found this quite hard at the end of the day.

Today it went down quite smoothly while putting up the draws and not really knowing what to do. So I guess it's 7b after all. Very cool climb.

 
7b+ Morisken-Tänzer Verlängerung - with Gillian Sport 35m Good
Fri 26th Aug 2022 - Gäsi
Rechts
8a Blind date extension - with Manu Sport 44m Classic
Brilliant 44m of climbing with the crux at almost 40m height.

For me this felt a tad harder than grau gnom or sensorium but might be easier if you have longer legs or, even better, are more flexible than I am.

 
Sat 6th Aug 2022 - Gäsi
Rechts
7c+ Blind Date - with Manu Sport 33m Classic
Another Gäsi classic; long with really nice sequences...essentially 3 7b+ on top of each other.

Very close to ticking the extension as well.

 
8a Sensorium - with Manu Sport 30m Classic
Nice!!! It's a 5m power endurance problem but the rest of the climb is still very cool!

 
Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Nordgalerie
Hauptwand
7a+ Kreziano - with Xa4 Sport 33m, 13 Very Good
Felt impossible last time when i was tired; felt okay for the grade as a warm-up.

 
Wed 13th Jul 2022 - Nordgalerie
Hauptwand
7c Unendliche Reise - with Mr C
1 7b 25
2 7c 19
Sport 44m Classic
7b+ Mammon - with Mr C Sport 35m Good
Some cool moves, but quite dirty and some very scetchy feet on 45° slopers.

 
Sat 9th Jul 2022 - Gäsi
Rechts
8b King of Bongo - with Manu Sport 25m Classic
Yes!

Bangin' on my bongo all that swing belongs to me, I'm so happy there's nobody in my place instead of me =)

Put my draws in a bit over a year ago and now (after a total of 8 days over the last year) I can finally put this to rest! Classic line. My first of the grade

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfLIlP-GAmg

 
Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Nordgalerie
Hauptwand
7b Big Wave - with Xa4 Sport 35m, 15 Very Good
Sat 4th Jun 2022 - Nordgalerie
Trolok
7b+ Trolok - with Anna Sport 30m Very Good
Half a move off the onsight. Cool route!

 
Sun 3rd Oct 2021 - Plattenwald
Moriskenburg
7c Super Rochade - with Sabrina Sport 35m Very Good
Soft but fun =). Nicely spaced bolts ;-)

 
Sun 3rd Oct 2021 - Plattenwald
Plattenwand
7c Lachen Lacht - with Sabrina Sport 18m Very Good
Wed 8th Sep 2021 - Plattenwald
Plattenwand
7a Schwertwal - with Sabrina Sport 25m, 14 Very Good
Cleaning up an old dog.

 
Tue 7th Sep 2021 - Gäsi
Rechts
7c+ Gummibärchen Orakel Sport 30m Classic
Super cool route, basically as good as grau gnom, just a bit shorter. The bouldery start (first 5 draws) Ended up being the crux for me. But lots of places where you can fall off, even after the no hands rest. (3rd go)

 
Sat 24th Jul 2021 - Gäsi
Rechts
7c Laisse la Petite - with Xa4 Sport 20m Classic
A victory for the small ones =). Maybe a tad hard for the grade, but a classic line either way.

 
Mon 3rd May 2021 - Gäsi
Rechts
8a La Le Lu - with Sabrina Sport 40m Mega Classic
...nur der Mann im Mond schaut zu....

 
Sat 24th Apr 2021 - Gäsi
Rechts
7a Le Lu - with Sabrina Sport 20m Very Good
Send this while sabrina was bitten by an ant which fell into her EYE!

.....what a weird day.

 
8a+ El Valor - with Sabrina Sport 35m Classic
First grade 30...a bit of an aussie milestone =)

This is another very cool Gäsi line. A bit morpho / surely will be easier with larger wingspan, i.e. if you can span from one good sidepull to the other or go directly from undercling to the good undercling. For me, with all the moves I had to add in between on those sub-optimal holds this felt like a real step up from the 8a's / full value for the grade; thus the name holds true "El Valor" .

Ended up with some really cool sequences featuring upside down gastons, heel- and toe-hooks, pushing into slopy corners and of course, all in combination with a lot of sidepulls! Very happy with the send

 
Sun 11th Apr 2021 - Gäsi
Rechts
7a+ Clandestino Sport 45m, 17 Classic
This time as a warm-up...still had to fight a lot more than I'd anticipated.

Varied climbing with multiple cruxy sections and shake outs in between; needs a broad skill set.

 
Sun 11th Apr 2021 - Gäsi
Links
7a+ Sputnik Shock - with Sabrina Sport 25m Very Good
Finally vaccinated =)

 
Sun 4th Apr 2021 - Plattenwald
Plattenwand
7b Wildsau Extension - with Sabrina Sport 30m Good
Tough nut.

 
Wed 31st Mar 2021 - Gäsi
Rechts
7a+ Kana Bis - with Ivo Sport 35m Very Good
Did the right variant in the middle section which overall makes for a nice climb. just a bit dirty in the first few meters.

The top crux needs a bit of commitment.

 
Tue 30th Mar 2021 - Gäsi
Links
7b+ Von Mäusen und Menschen - with Stefan Barthel Sport 20m Good
Boulder start, crimpy middle section and boulder finish. Gotta get those twitchy fibers running...

Left the first two clipped as the feet are super slippery around the second bolt.

 
Tue 30th Mar 2021 - Gäsi
Mitte
7c Lament - with Stefan Barthel Sport 35m Classic
Another great Gäsi line! Boulder crux section down low and then mind bending Gäsi-shenanigans to the top; Love it.

Def. not 7c+, prob. even soft for 7c?!

 
Sun 28th Mar 2021 - Gäsi
Links
7a Ghelfinarium - with Sabrina Sport 20m Very Good
Had to do a bit of cleaning on the way to the anchor but very nice line with some cool moves.

 
Sun 28th Mar 2021 - Gäsi
Rechts
8a Grau Gnom - with Sabrina, Ivo Sport 42m Mega Classic
40+m of awesome but continuously challenging climbing. So many cool sequences, kinda fries your brain.

Gäsi is the gift that keeps on giving...

 
Sat 27th Feb 2021 - Nordgalerie
Hauptwand
7b+ 7b Luftschiff - with Sabrina Sport 25m Very Good
Cool line; 7b+ with my height I reckon (as written in the guidebook)

 
Sun 15th Nov 2020 - Gäsi
Mitte
6b Werk statt schreib Verlängerung - with Ivo Sport 32m Very Good
Last few moves in common with 7a. Extension is better than the 6a+!

 
Sat 12th Sep 2020 - Plattenwald
Plattenkreuz
7c Ohrakel - with Jascha, Jacky Sport 26m Classic
Is it more listening or telling?!?

 
Tue 8th Sep 2020 - Plattenwald
Plattenwand
7b Desert Storm L1 - with Ivo Sport 15m Good
A bit of a omw. The extension is cool but was wet in the upper half.

 
Sun 6th Sep 2020 - Nordgalerie
Hauptwand
7b+ Black Pearl - with Anna Sport 25m Very Good
Mikes new route.

 
7b Rocksanne - with Anna Sport 25m Very Good
Anna's new route, straight after her first ascent. Tough start and a tricky section half way up.

 
Thu 20th Aug 2020 - Deponie
Hauptsektor
7c Leistenbruch - with Jascha Sport 24m, 10 Very Good
Probably soft, but didn't feel like it on a 33degree day ;-)

 
Sun 9th Aug 2020 - Nordgalerie
Hauptwand
7b Herkulis - with Ivo Sport 35m Very Good
I am essentially a half-god now!

 
Wed 22nd Jul 2020 - Plattenwald
Moriskenburg
7b La Rochade - with Ivo Sport 35m Very Good
Essentially the best move.

 
Sat 4th Jul 2020 - Nordgalerie
Hauptwand
7b+ 7b Corazon Negro - with Ivo Sport 35m Very Good
Went straight with the tiny crimps at the upper crux for the 7b+ version.

 
Thu 25th Jun 2020 - Nordgalerie
Hauptwand
6c Sparrow - Barbossa - with Ivo Sport 35m Very Good
Makes it a nice homogeneous climb. One day I have to try these routes with some daylight left...More light, less spiders ;-)

 
7b Grün ist die Hoffnung - with Ivo
1 6c
2 7b
Sport 35m, 15 Very Good
Finally, not an easy climb; some may even say not 7b...

 
Fri 12th Jun 2020 - Hüttenkopf
6c+ Spitting Image - with Julie
1 6a+ 20
2 6c+ 15
Sport 35m Classic
Sat 6th Jun 2020 - Plattenwald
Plattenkreuz
7c+ Brokkolissima - with Julie, Ivo Sport 25m Very Good
I personally prefer carrots (except for the bolts of course), but has some cool moves and the scenery is amazing.

Would probably get 7b+ at Gäsi

 
Tue 2nd Jun 2020 - Nordgalerie
Hauptwand
6c Bubak Verlängerung - with Ivo Sport 35m Very Good
7a Dea Dia - with Ivo Sport 40m Classic
Sun 31st May 2020 - Gäsi
Mitte
6c Mentira Sport 30m Good
Seems very solid if you cannot span from one side-pull pocket to the next...

 
7a+ Land der unbegrenzten Möglichkeiten - with Jascha Sport 32m Very Good
Cool climb, though the best part is what it has in common with the 6b

 
Sat 30th May 2020 - Gäsi
Rechts
8a Sirga - with Jascha, Michele De Marchi, Ivo Sport 36m Classic
Wohoo, first 8a!!! Had to set the inner Lion free to claw my way up.

Quite a few tricky sections where you could come off at any moment....Feels like the 35m of climbing only has 2 downwards facing holds...love it ;-)

 
Sun 24th May 2020 - Plattenwald
Plattenwand
6b Spass muss sein - with Julie Sport 15m Don't Bother
Weird boulder start into a stupidly runout section covered in dirt. Essentially from 6-13m height: if you slip on the pile of dirt you are scrambling up, every fall would be a groundfall. At least the bolter didn't bother to invest in stainless bolts for this one...🥴

 
Thu 21st May 2020 - Gäsi
Rechts
7c Little Sirga - with Jascha Sport 35m Good
Dirty at the bottom, great at the top. Good to be able to climb the upper section clean, now going for the main event...

 
Sat 9th May 2020 - Gäsi
Mitte
7b Leo, le Sport 33m Good
Tricky.

 
Thu 7th May 2020 - Plattenwald
Moriskenburg
7c Meskita Links - with Jascha Sport 35m Very Good
For 7c you have to stay left all the way

 
7b Meskita - with Jascha Sport 35m Good
Warm Up

 
Wed 6th May 2020 - Plattenwald
Moriskenburg
7b+ Alhambra - with Ivo Sport 35m Very Good
Soft as kittens.

 
Mon 27th Apr 2020 - Deponie
Hauptsektor
7b Der Untergrundmann - with Jascha Sport 18m Average
Sat 25th Apr 2020 - Gäsi
Mitte
7b+ Vive les puces - with Jascha Sport 35m Very Good
7b Dr. Xenical - with Jascha Sport 35m Very Good
Tue 21st Apr 2020 - Deponie
Hauptsektor
7c Lokaltermin - with Jascha Sport 24m, 8 Very Good
Local is the way to go.

 
Mon 20th Apr 2020 - Gäsi
Gäsi Oben
7c The Power of Isolation - with Jascha Sport 27m, 10 Very Good
Oh those beautiful slimpers. Corona is downgrading every route on this planet.

 
Fri 17th Apr 2020 - Gäsi
Gäsi Oben
6c+ 2 Meter - with Jascha Sport 28m, 12 Good
2 meter of separation.

 
7a Coronapocalypse - with Jascha Sport 30m, 13 Classic
The world goes down while I go up!

 
7a Remote - with Jascha Sport 28m, 12 Good
Finish is probably very hard to onsight.

 
Wed 15th Apr 2020 - Deponie
Hauptsektor
6b Terrain d'Aventure - with Jascha Sport 24m Good
7a Raksa - with Jascha Sport 24m Good
Sun 12th Apr 2020 - Gäsi
Gäsi Oben
7b Just around the Corona - with Jascha Sport 32m, 13 Good
Not far from home, basically just around the corona.

 
Fri 10th Apr 2020 - Gäsi
Gäsi Oben
7a+ Pandemic - with Jascha Sport 35m, 12 Classic
Super cool route. I am sure it's popularity will spread...

 
Sat 20th Jul 2019 - Plattenwald
Trollfels
6c 6b+ Parallelwelt - with Julie Sport 20m Very Good
Cool climb but very hard for the grade.

 
7b+ Rip Tide - with Julie Sport 22m Very Good
Simply got carried away.

 
Sat 20th Jul 2019 - Plattenwald
Plattenwand
6c+ Plan B extension - with Julie Sport 25m Very Good
Sun 23rd Jun 2019 - Plattenwald
Plattenwand
7c X-Pression - with Julie Sport 30m Very Good
More crack goodness. (Soft, 2nd shot)

 
Sun 2nd Jun 2019 - Plattenwald
Plattenwand
7c Pirelli short - with Lukas Sport 22m Classic
Brilliant climb. Make sure you have the right rubber equipped, so many unlikely moves.

 
Thu 30th May 2019 - Plattenwald
Plattenwand
7b+ Ritterweg - with Julie Sport 20m Very Good
Sun 19th May 2019 - Plattenwald
Plattenwand
7a+ Bounty - with Ines Sport 35m Very Good
7c Easy Michelangela - with Ines Sport Classic
I'm singing in the rain...

 
Sat 18th May 2019 - Plattenwald
Plattenwand
7b Yellow Cake Extension - with Gillian Sport 25m Very Good
Adds some cool moves to the 7a+. Should have been an onsight..

 

Showing all 87 ascents.

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