Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fri 5th Jul 2024 - Deponie | ||||||
Hauptsektor | ||||||
6a+ ~6b |
★ ??
![]() | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Felt really quite hard for the grade. Slippery hand- and footholds. Maybe also because of the humidity... Nice moves nonetheless.
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6c |
★ ?
![]() | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Short boulder in the middle, rest easier.
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7a |
★★ Sanftes Unheil
![]() | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super nice route.
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Sat 29th Jun 2024 - Paschga | ||||||
6b+ |
★★ Antibrumm
![]() | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b Hard |
★★ Parapic
![]() | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Crux was a bit unclear, hard to read and quite "airy".
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Sat 29th Jun 2024 - St. Jöri | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
6a+ Hard |
★★ Hinkelbein
![]() | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Steep. High gravity day. Zero endurance. Only very few routes were dry. Everything quite humid.
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6a+ Hard |
★★ Gügärügü
![]() | 10m, 5 | ||||
6a |
★★ Böggele
![]() | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 25th Jun 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Eptingen Diegterwand | ||||||
6a |
★ Apéro
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Repeat / Warm up.
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7b |
★★★ Höllenfahrt
![]() | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Still a long way to go to link it all.
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7a |
★★ Go for it
![]() | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b+ |
★★ Dévers
![]() | 15m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard to read and crimpy.
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Sun 16th Jun 2024 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Plattenwand | ||||||
6c |
★ Gatto Rosso Extension
![]() | 23m | ||||
Not even able to get to the first bolt today. Too tired?
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6b |
★★ Gatto Rosso
![]() | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice and flowy. The main difficulty is getting to the anchor...
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6b+ |
★★ Finale
![]() | 35m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat warm-up.
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7a+ Easy |
★★ Bounty
![]() | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Needed a second go for the overhanging crux, which is mainly a bit psycho to clip with the ledge below.
Rest of the route went alright at first go. It's mainly a bit of a techy slabby headgame. |
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Plattenwand | ||||||
7a+ |
★★ Yellow Cake
![]() | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Still no solution for crux.
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6a+ |
★★ Schwertfisch
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Felt shaky today.
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6c+ |
★★ Zeckenalarm
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great route with two nice cruxes, one down low and one near the finish. Unfortunately missed a hold at the second-to-last bolt and thus messed up the flash.
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6b |
★ Plan B
![]() | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Warm-up
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Mon 20th May 2024 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Plattenwand | ||||||
6b+ |
★★ Bohrstaub.ch
![]() | 32m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The + needs to be earned. Got thrown off at third bolt on first go. Needed to have a good hard look at this section. The rest is not a piece of cake either.
Athletic and steep at the start, very diagonal in the middle and slabby, technical climbing towards the finish. |
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7a+ |
★★ Yellow Cake
![]() | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
What a beauty. Terrible footholds at the crux (5th to 6th bolt), so I did not yet find a solution there. The rest is not too difficult and offers quite a bit of variation with a few thinner and slabby moves, a few jugs on a bulge and a finish on slopers.
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5b |
★ Check-In
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Repeat. Easy start today.
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6c |
★★ Metamorphose
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 19th May 2024 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Plattenwand | ||||||
6b |
★ Plan B
![]() | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Short and not obvious crux at third bolt.
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5c+ |
★ Dampfkessel
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Repeat. Quite tricky boulder at third(?) bolt.
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6b+ |
★★ Finale
![]() | 35m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. 6b in the topo, which I think checks out.
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6c |
★★ Metamorphose
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Needed to have a look at the crux. Found quite an easy solution only to mess it up on second go - being a bit too stressed with the rainfall starting.
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Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Falkenfluh Holzer | ||||||
6b |
Gear on
★★ Wunderfinken
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really nice flow. Rather good holds.
The ground-fall-run-out up to the second bolt seems unnecessary even though the climbing is easy. |
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6c+ |
★★ Sanduhrendrama
![]() | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Left-traverse at the supposed crux (bolt 4 to 5, I think) felt super-hard. Did not find a solution and lowered down.
Getting to the fourth bolt was already quite the move. Rather polished holds. Looks still nice, though. |
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Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Falkenfluh Amboss | ||||||
5c |
Gear on
★★ Pfeiler
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice warm-up. Not easy to read.
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5c |
Gear on
★★ Feierabendriß
![]() | 25m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Crux not easy to read, but all in all the route is really just a classic dulfer-dihedral. A bit polished but still a lot of fun.
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Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Eptingen Bündel | ||||||
6a+ |
★ Crazy Wall
![]() | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Warm-up. Repeat. One-move-wonder.
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Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Eptingen Diegterwand | ||||||
7a |
★★ Go for it
![]() | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fell out at last bolt.
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Sun 21st Apr 2024 - Contra | ||||||
Contrattacco | ||||||
5b+ |
★ Contrazione
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
Crux right at the second bolt with a move on small holds and feet on friction. Rest is super-easy.
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5b ~5b+ |
★ Contratta
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
Might well be a bit harder, I think harder than the neighboring route to the right. Thin crux above a ledge.
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Sun 21st Apr 2024 - Contra | ||||||
Contraerea | ||||||
6c+ |
★★ Solidaria
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Repeat. Tough start.
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7b |
★★★ S.P.Q.R
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Found solutions for all the moves, linking and clipping still challenging.
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Sat 20th Apr 2024 - Cresciano | ||||||
Federica | ||||||
6a |
★★ A Sud de Nessun Nord
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Not always easy to read.
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6b+ |
Gear on
★★ Sensazioni Profonde
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A few small holds right before the top.
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7a+ |
★★★ Anals
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt impossible, but maybe like the one to the left I should go again. Pretty tough at the start.
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7a |
★★★ Palle di Neve
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice and a bit steep. Sustained start to good hold between second and third bolt, then it gets quite tough sgain with a nice dynamic crux move from small holds to a "thank-god"-jug. First time around it felt impossible, but with open eyes I could find a better hold or sequence here or there.
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5c+ |
Gear on
★★ Super Crak
![]() | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome and very varied climbing.
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6c |
★★★ La trumba
![]() | 30m | ||||
Did not feel the way up to third bolt, a bit awkward falling there. Maybe another time
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Eptingen Diegterwand | ||||||
7b |
★★★ Höllenfahrt
![]() | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Still struggling between 7th and 9th. The sequence to get under the bulge feels like the real crux.
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7a |
★★ Go for it
![]() | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Still haven't really found a working solution at the 4th bolt. Need to improve my footwork I guess.
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Eptingen Bündel | ||||||
6b ~6a+ |
★ Blue Way
![]() | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm-up 2. A few slippery footholds and one or two moves on small holds, but I quite like it nonetheless.
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5b+ |
Gear on
★ Stairway to heaven
![]() | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Warm-up 1
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Eptingen Bündel | ||||||
5c+ Hard |
★ Berührungsangst
![]() | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Warm-up / heat-up in the sun. Not too easy, actually. Feels harder than "Jumping Jack".
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Eptingen Diegterwand | ||||||
7a |
★★ Go for it
![]() | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tough and thin boulder to get to / over the 4th bolt with a sea of possibilities for the feet. Not sure of the right solution...
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Thu 11th Apr 2024 - Berner Jura | ||||||
Orvin Nouvelle nuance | ||||||
6a+ |
★★ Dactylogramme gris
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit more sustained than than the 6a+es further left.
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6a+ |
★★ Rêve d'Orgon
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short and rather thin crux sequence above the middle chains.
|
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6a+ |
★★★ Sympa avec des coinceurs
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very nice and varied technical climbing.
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5c+ ~5c |
Gear on
★★ Magic mushroom
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
One move wonder to get to the chains.
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5a |
★★ Les dalles grises
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5c+ |
★ Lou Caftie
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
5a+ ~5a |
Direttissima
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Eptingen Wasserfalle | ||||||
6a |
Gear on
★ Dobre-Jitro
![]() | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Eptingen Diegterwand | ||||||
6b+ |
Gear on
★★ Breakout
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had to fight for this flash.
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7b |
★★★ Höllenfahrt
![]() | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tough from 6th to 9th bolt.
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Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Basler Jura | ||||||
Eptingen Bündel | ||||||
6a |
★ Jumping Jack
![]() | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm-up.
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6b+ |
Zeichen der Zeit
![]() | 20m, 5 | ||||
Still a tough cookie and hard to read. Once you clipped the second bolt, it's basically over...
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Thu 4th Apr 2024 - Berner Jura | ||||||
Orvin Nouvelle nuance | ||||||
6b Hard |
★★ Nouvelle Perle
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice technical/thin crux on the slab.
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6c ~6b |
★ Trous secs
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | |||
One dynamic move - probably shared with "Styx"?!?
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5b+ |
★★★ Clean
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5a+ ~5a |
Direttissima
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | |||
5b Hard |
★★ Verdon facile
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Claro | ||||||
California | ||||||
6c Hard |
★★★ Mouline Rouge
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Needed long to decipher crux to get over "the bulge". Was too hot to find a sensible solution for two moves further up...
(Beta for bulge - something along the lines of: both hands on/around the sharp obvious center hold, left foot high somehat on friction, then get right foot on high foothold while kind of gaston-ing the rounded edge with the right(? - definitely the opposite hand than what would seem obvious) for balance.) |
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Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Claro | ||||||
Il Cubo | ||||||
6a+ Hard |
★★ Il grande Passo
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
One of the few routes that were dry in the morning. Held on to a sling for clipping one sketchy bolt in a friction climbing section.
Nice & bit heady route. |
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Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Claro | ||||||
Pallas | ||||||
6a+ |
★★ Opera Pia
![]() | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice short technical route.
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6c |
★★ Lobbia
![]() | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very varied climbing along the edge of a pillar. Some athletic moves and some more technical.
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Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Thunersee | ||||||
Hole | ||||||
5b |
★ Wikinger
![]() | Average | ||||
A bit too green on the right, but most of the climbing is taking place on the left.
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6a |
★★ Handzahm
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
Not obvious.
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6b |
★ Dizzy
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
The climbing is actually quite nice but unfortunately some holds in the upper part are a bit dirty.
Needed a second go at the start because I did overlook the jug for clipping the 2nd bolt. |
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6b+ |
★★ Mutterstolz
![]() | ★★★ Classic | ||||
From time to time a bit thin and technical. Very nice.
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6b |
★★ Signalco
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very varied with an "alpine" flair.
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Thu 4th Jan 2024 - Contra | ||||||
Contrabbando | ||||||
6b |
★★ Pervitin
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good flow of movement.
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6c+ |
Slabrador
![]() | Average | ||||
Mantle down low can actually be easily done without an awkward alpine knee. The crux is kind of a one move wonder that can cost a lot of skin when repeatedly done... Best to directly aim for the good hold far back instead of the closer but worse sloper.
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5c Easy |
★★ Anomalisa
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Warm-Up
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Wed 3rd Jan 2024 - Contra | ||||||
Contraerea | ||||||
7a+ |
★★ Fly
![]() | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Totally out of my element. Very endurance-y. Unfortunately quite a few hard/sketchy clips with a bit of ground-fall-potential. Batteries empty on the second go...
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7a |
★★ Skywalker
![]() | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Finally got the send. For me still quite a challenge even though I might even have cheated a little by resting with left foot on flake at 5th bolt. Great route with a "grande finale".
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7a |
★★ Skywalker
![]() | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Messed up getting to bolt 5. Rest went alright.
|
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6b |
★★ Adam Contra
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Warm-up... Very clumsily clipped bolt 2... Then staying left is indeed easier than convoluted right-traverse-solution...
|
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Mon 1st Jan 2024 - Contra | ||||||
Contraerea | ||||||
7a |
★★ Skywalker
![]() | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Bit of a process going on here. Needed to find a few puzzle pieces, but I should have everything together now. Splendid route.
|
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6a+ |
★★ Rocky monster
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | |||
6a+ |
★★ Rocky monster
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 30th Dec 2023 - Contra | ||||||
Contraerea | ||||||
7a |
★★ Skywalker
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6b |
★★ Adam Contra
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Probably easier to stay left instead of doing a convoluted right-traverse
|
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5c |
★★ Contrad
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Getting used to real rock again...
|
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Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Solothurner Jura | ||||||
Rüttelhorn Gelbe Wand | ||||||
6c |
★★ Boys at work
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did not see the right-side handhold and could not solve it via the left side. Not sure if my solution ends up too far off the route on the right side as it feels way easier than a 6c. On the other hand going straight up seems to be "impossible" for me. No time for a second go, unfortunately.
Nice crag. A bit cold today. |
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6b+ Easy |
★★ Eidechsenweg
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Crux was hard to decipher at first, but once it is clear, it feels easier than "Herbstfurz".
|
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6b Hard |
★ Herbstfurz
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Two nice cruxes. One needed a good bit of looking-at... for me to find a terrible solution.
|
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6a |
★ Via Marianna
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Warm-Up.
|
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Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Solothurner Jura | ||||||
Balsthal Holzflue | ||||||
6c+ |
★★ Man in the mirror
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
At last found a solution for freeing the crux, but it's kinda low-percentage.
|
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5c |
★ Zweärgniaga
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
6b+ |
★★ Frog
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wow, there even is a 6b that is doable onsight.
|
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6b+ |
★★ Blamage
![]() | 25m | ||||
Blamage indeed, start is a hard boulder.
|
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7b+ |
★★ Die Flöhe husten hören
![]() | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Gave it a try up to last bolt. Start seems doable, but the middle part is hard.
|
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Thu 5th Oct 2023 - Eppenberg | ||||||
Roggenhusersteinbruch | ||||||
6b |
★ Schratte-Trail
![]() | 25m | Average | |||
Hard boulder after the artificial hold (to another cemented hold). Doable.
|
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5c+ |
★★ Schön Riss
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Warmup
|