Start on a big vegetated terrace just R of the
chimney base.
Climb vegetated chimney to highest tree, below a steepening (45m.). Now the R side of chimney over several overlaps (crux, one aid point used on 1st overlap); belay on chockstone a few m. up the narrower part of chimney (30m.). Continue more easily deep inside chimney to good tree belay below a steepening (40m.). The chimney, then move R to gain a comer and hence a slab (one aid point used on 1st ascent). The slab to easier ground on R and a big airy ledge (35m.). The difficult wall immediately behind, then through blocks to ledge on R. Above R-hand end of ledge a crack leads up and R; climb this, then a slab above to thickly vegetated ledges (45m.). Move down and across slab on R, then up more easily to gain a long easy ramp below red overhanging walls to a tiny cave
belay (35m.). Pull over cave roof, with or without aid, through bush to ledge (5m.). Traverse R to big open ledge (10m.); continue R below huge roofs; using a sling on a tree, tension down to a continuation of the traverse; after a few steep slab moves an easy traverse leads to tree belay below a chimney (35m.). Climb chimney and step R below chockstone to a ledge. Traverse R across a slab to a hidden ledge (35m.). Now go up easily to the top (20m.).
Descent: Follow ridge S till easy forest paths can be taken down or back to a biv. site.
