Krabi Guide

Summary:

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Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 8.036611, 99.009488

summary

Lots of perfect limestone cliffs full of tufas, nice beaches and hot weather - that's what the area of Krabi promises.

description

Krabi is not only Tonsai and Railey - there has been a lot of development on Krabi Mainland with interesting crags and away from the crowds as well.

approach

Krabi is easy to reach, either fly into Krabi or fly to Phuket and take a bus or taxi to Krabi or Ao Nang.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 8.016712, 98.842487

description

Thailand's premier climbing area and world famous rock climbing destination.

Long tail boat from Krabi or Ao Nang, head to the water front and ask around. Best bet is to ask for Railay, it's the cheapest boat ride, and there are always tourists headed there, so boats are more frequent

history

Several European climbers like Dominique Potard and Francois Burnier from France came to Thailand in 1988 armed with hammer drills and steel expansion bolts to put up the first sport climbs around the Phi Phi islands. This continued in 1989 and the early 90′s with the discovery of Railay Bay and the Phra-Nang pennisula. Areas like 'One-Two-Three' and the 'Muay Thai' on Railay East saw the first routes on the Phra-Nang peninsula.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 8.019298, 98.833407

summary

Who has not heard of Ton Sai, the paradise crag in southern Thailand. Things have changed recently, but the climbing is still awesome.

description

Ton Sai has hundreds of routes to offer, from 5c to 8c. Expect three-dimensional limestone with huge jugs, tiny pockets, slopers, stalactites, tufas, caves... The easier routes are usually pretty busy, especially during high season (November to March), and super polished, but still worth jumping on. There are also plenty of multi-pitches, with 'Lord of the Thais' (7b) considered one of the best in the world. Cherry on the cake is of course climbing on the beach, never too far from a cold beer and a mango sticky rice. Be aware that Ton Sai is a very touristy destination, so if mass tourism isn't your thing, consider other areas for your trip.

Ton Sai has hundreds of routes to offer, from 5c to 8c. Expect three-dimensional limestone with huge jugs, tiny pockets, sloppers, stalactites, tufas, caves... The easier routes are usually pretty busy, especially during high season (November to March), and super polished but still worth jumping on. There are also plenty of multi-pitches, with 'Lord of the Thais' (7b) considered one of the best in the world. Cherry on the cake is of course climbing on the beach, never too far from a cold beer and a mango rice. Be aware that Ton Sai is a very touristy detination, so if mass tourism isn't your thing consider other areas for your trip.

access issues

No road access. From Ao Nang hire a longtail boat to take you around to Ton Sai. Boats only operate during the day.

approach

From Krabi Airport, make your way to Ao Nang via a 1h shuttle, then get a longtail boat to Ton Sai. The ones that go to Railay will stop in Ton Sai, too.

where to stay

There are many different accommodations in Ton Sai and Railay, from cheap bamboo huts (no air cons, not very clean, not too safe and plenty of mosquitoes) to luxury resorts with air con and swimming pools. Camping is not allowed.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 8.008772, 98.841810

summary

Thailand's climbing mecca.

description

This area is actively being rebolted at time of writing (2023) and much of the info on this website is outdated. Pop into one of the many local climbing shops and grab a guidebook as well as chat with the lovely local guides for the most up to date info. Please consider donating to the local rebolting fund if you have the means.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 8.077053, 98.861430

description

Enjoy the peace and quiet of the beautiful Krabi Mainland crags. The biggest crags are Chong Phli (Spirit Mountain) and The North Wall, however the smaller crags scattered about are well worth exploring as well.

If you want to support the maintenance and development of climbing on mainland Krabi, please consider making a donation: https://ko-fi.com/krabiboltingfund

If you're looking for climbing partners be sure to check out our facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/779279462928392

ethic

Some areas on the mainland are sensitive with respect to access as it is on private land, please behave accordingly!

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 8.080206, 98.829916

summary

Spirit Mountain is a beautiful cliff with sectors facing in all directions. Single pitch and routes up to 3 pitches in excellent quality.

description

Chong Phli is located near Ao Nang. Most routes are bolted with glue-in bolts, some even titanium even though the sea is far.

approach

Access to the crag is along Soi Chong Phli 6.

From Krabi take the road toward Ao Nang, go through Chong Phli and go past the turn off to Ao Nang. (The solitary karst on your right is Spirit Mountain). Continue along the main road and after a few bends turn right into Soi Chong Phli 6. Once on Soi Chong Phli 6 turn right again after the first row of houses and down an orange dirt road to the crag.

where to stay

There is a homestay and community learning and development center directly at the crag with bungalows and possibility to set up your tent upon request. Activities such as yoga, sounds healing, nature therapy as well as permaculture workshops and ecology are available. Send a message to https://www.facebook.com/SpiritMountainKrabi

ethic

Chong Phli is approximately 90% titanium bolts. There are slings used for some routes because of soft rock, where they tend to be safer than bolts. All anchors and slings are checked yearly to make sure they are safe.

history

The development of Rock Climbing at Chong Phli started in 2009.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 8.031653, 98.840028

summary

Sport climbing crag in Ao Nang town itself. Good mix of moderate to difficult climbs (5a to 8a with most being excellent 6s and 7s). All titanium bolts and well-maintained crag overall.

description

The North Wall is the newest crag in Krabi and it's in Ao Nang - so on the mainland and not Railay-Tonsai peninsula. Developed in the last few years, all bolts are titanium set with Hilti 500 glue.

Climbing is similar to Railay-Tonsai - steep and 3D with some very long routes - especially the Mythic Beasts sector.

Majority of the routes can be climbed even on rainy days. But watch out for the mosquitos - bring spray and mosquito coils.

No toilets so far so please be prepared to "go in nature". The developers are considering how some kind of eco-toilet can be built there.

access issues

Access is through private property (plantation and a residence) so please be mindful as the property owners are fine with climbing there so long as climbers respect their property and privacy (house).

Please don't park your motorbike in front of the small lake at the end of the driveway.

approach

From Ao Nang beach, follow the main road (4203) towards Krabi town for about 1.5km. Turn right into Soi 11 (opposite of the 'De Loft Hotel') and follow the road for about 900m. Where the road turns left (200m after the sign to the 'Emerald Muay Thai Gym'), turn right for 30m, then take the small trail slightly to the left into the forest. Follow the trail to the end (about 100m) and park your motobike. Walk about 1 minute to the crag right in front of you.

It is also marked on Google Maps - search: "Ao Nang North Wall"

ethic

Drilling, chipping and "enhancement" of rock is forbidden!

Summary:

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 8.104179, 98.876437

summary

The Reservoir is a crag in Sai Thai directly next to a reservoir. Developments began in March 2022. Enjoy mosquito free climbing on clean vertical and overhanging rock. Afternoon shade from 1230pm(February). All titanium bolts.

description

The season for climbing here is from approximately March through to August.

This is due to flooding at the base of the climbs as the reservoir fills with water after rain. These dates are affected by how wet and the timing of the rainy season.

Not flooded dates please update:

1/5/23 - 15/8/2023,

1/2/24 -

approach

Park at the google maps location (see below), and walk left along the cliff. https://goo.gl/maps/QggpxgXHBy2Fe88c8

ethic

Drilling, chipping, enhancement of holds is forbidden!

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 8.109669, 98.864794

summary

Karst located in Sai Thai surrounded by Palm plantations and pineapple fields. Developments of the first sector "The Balcony" started in 2021. All Titanium bolts/anchors using HIT-RE 500 glue.

description

Climbing is vertical and overhanging on really good quality limestone.

access issues

Access is on a private palm plantation, therefore please be mindful of the land owner and plantation workers.

approach

https://goo.gl/maps/mepdXKzivvdiShKt5

See above link.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 8.030646, 98.834723

approach

Approach Park in a little pull out across the street from Ban Sainai Resort on Soi 11/1 in Ao Nang. https://maps.app.goo.gl/NzCvgEGzsGyovR2i7

Hike into the jungle following a faint trail. Then follow fixed ropes up steep terrain all the way to the wall.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 8.030207, 98.830533

approach

https://goo.gl/maps/eHDEJuG6HgLqTEzY9

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 8.082974, 98.850572

summary

Sport climbing crag up on Hollow Mountain. Beautiful view, awesome long climbs, great potential for new routes.

description

Total of 3 routes, 5 routes if you count each pitches. Grades range from 7a to 7c+. This sector has not seen much traffic, grades are not settled.

As the name suggests, a big wide opening in an awesome cliff, long routes.

approach

The forest in front of the trail and Attitude Coffee Shop have been razed, now it’s just a field where they plan to plant palm trees. Coming on the road from C’More cafe, you will pass the field and then a logging camp. You can park at the logging camp and walk along the field with the jungle on your right until the trail, which is almost at the end of the field.

Go up the trail towards Hollow Mountain (there’s a small branching off at the beginning, stay left), you’ll eventually go up three metal ladders. A bit after the third ladder, you need to branch off left from the main trail (there’s a wooden beam with bolts and metal wires sticking out of it on the ground where you should branch off left). Keep following the left trail with the wall on your right, you’ll reach the Dome.

The walk down is muddy/slow on rainy days.

As access is sensitive and rules change, please check at the bungalows in Chong Phli before going there.

history

Area bolted by Jonas and Nikki.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 8.067150, 98.801113

access issues

There have been issues with locals in the past. Check with the climbing camp in Chong Phli, whether access is possible.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 8.021586, 98.829991

access issues

The crag is located just behind Pai Plong Beach (aka Bamboo Beach), which is now location of the five-star Centara hotel that tries to keep the beach private. Check before with Basecamp Ton Sai if climbing is possible.

approach

Take a longtail boat and ask to be dropped off at Pai Plong Beach, located right behind the 'Ao Nang Tower'. Walk right across the beach into the jungle until you reach the wall. Follow it to the right until the first bolt line.

Another option is to access from Ao Nang Beach South East direction. From here you walk through wooden walkway until reach Pai Plong Beach. Keep going until end of the beach and walk into the jungle until you reach the wall

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 8.019077, 98.826368

summary

A beautiful freestanding tower which can be seen from Ao Nang beach.

approach

This crag is only accessible by water so a long-tail boat ride, kayak or paddleboard is required. Cannot be accessed in rough or windy seas as there's a good chance of hitting the rocks. Best accessed during high tide.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 8.102878, 98.833984

summary

Beautiful, peacful, nature, vertical, crimp, jug, high-quality, clean rock, 5 min walk, morning shade.

description

Currently two routes, 6b warm up and 7a, all titanium bolts. There is opportunity to bolt more routes on this wall. Sun arrives around midday - however from belay spot to halfway up the wall is always shaded due to large rain forrest trees.

access issues

No issues with access. You can go and climb here.

Access has not been officially confirmed. However it is not a problem as the location is very remote.

approach

10 min drive from Chong Plee. Park on the main raod by the rubber tree plantation - google maps location here, https://goo.gl/maps/gef8GxsrtjnyqMaz9

From the parking, walk up the gentle slope rightwards through the rubber trees. Look for a large dead tree lying on its side, this marks the start of the trail. From parking to the rockface is a casual 5 min walk.

ethic

Be polite and respectful to other climbers and Thai locals. Remember climbing is a privilegde not a right. Dont leave your trash.

history

Area first opened and explored by Tej and Collin in July 2021.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 8.078092, 98.921200

summary

Old crag right next to Krabi town. Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb here!

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 8.074445, 98.842353

summary

Bon Voyage is a small crag with a handful of short and powerful routes.

description

The crag is located 2 min walk from the main road. Most of the routes have been partially rebolted in TI, but there are still some rusty steel expansion bolts in places. Take a clipstick if you plan to climb here. Potential for more development, especially in the harder grades.

approach

From the main intersection with the PTT station drive towards Chong Phli. After driving past the Mountain View Restaurant park next to the road, and walk through the palm plantation to reach the cliff.

8°04'28.0"N 98°50'32.4"E https://maps.app.goo.gl/2cV2rsBrYbFZsvjB6?g_st=ic

history

Developed around 2008 (before Chong Phli)

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 7.894857, 98.744268

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 7.746273, 98.774733

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 8.117043, 98.676459

Summary:

Sport climbing, Deep water soloing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 7.971159, 98.809357

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 7.977421, 98.809065

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 8.103150, 98.682344

Summary:

Sport climbing and Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 7.947817, 98.797706

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 7.949109, 98.808386

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 7.950578, 98.792866

description

Deep Water Solo Area. There was a significant collapse in 10/2020. I believe authorities originally placed a 2 year 'no access' around the island. I believe the collapse will effect the 'Hard Routes' (V3-V6) The easy routes to the left of image would be likely ok. (V0-V1) Check with locals about possible closure before you go. If you choose to use the area, pay particular attention to submerged rocks. Always check water depth thoroughly before climbing.

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 7.948697, 98.779233

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 7.930655, 98.805152

Table of contents

1. Krabi 1,255 routes in Region

1.1. Phra-Nang Peninsula 769 routes in Region

1.1.1. Ton Sai 441 routes in Area

1.1.2. Railay 328 routes in Area

1.2. Krabi Mainland 313 routes in Region

1.2.1. Chong Phli - Spirit Mountain 144 routes in Crag

1.2.2. The North Wall 94 routes in Crag

1.2.3. The Reservoir 16 routes in Crag

1.2.4. Nong Gok - Sai Thai 9 routes in Crag

1.2.5. Dream Wall - Ao Nang Multipitch 1 route in Cliff

1.2.6. Soi 13 1 route in Crag

1.2.7. The Dome 5 routes in Area

1.2.8. Khao Khuen Kan - ShangriLa 15 routes in Crag

1.2.9. Vinland 10 routes in Crag

1.2.10. Ao Nang Tower 4 routes in Crag

1.2.11. Back and Beyond 2 routes in Crag

1.2.12. Kanaab Nam - Krabi Town 7 routes in Crag

1.2.13. Bon Voyage 5 routes in Crag

1.3. Islands around Krabi 173 routes in Region

1.3.1. Koh Phi Phi 120 routes in Crag

1.3.2. Koh Pak Bia 3 routes in Crag

1.3.3. Koh Poda 19 routes in Crag

1.3.4. Koh Ma Tang Ming 1 route in Crag

1.3.5. Koh Ladin 2 routes in Crag

1.3.6. N's island 14 routes in Crag

1.3.7. Chicken island 1 route in Crag

1.3.8. Koh Ya Wa Bong Ko 3 routes in Cliff

1.3.9. Koh Mae Urai 0 routes in Cliff

1.3.10. Koh Ya Wa Sam 5 routes in Cliff

1.3.11. Koh Khom 0 routes in Cliff

1.3.12. Koh Lao Pe 5 routes in Cliff