Routes in Krabi for selected grade

Could be 5, 6 or 7 piches, depending how you see the climb.

1. Start up the ladder, left of 'Cowabungalow'. Climb up behind a stalactite and traverse left to the anchor on the ledge. 1 titanium bolt, 4 slings.

2. Straight up the stalactite and right to the anchor on the cave of the next ledge. 4 titanium bolts.

3. Traverse outwards to the right. Straight up on the face. Anchor to the left on a small ledge above the 'Bird's Nest Drop' anchor. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

4. Straight up into the tufas to a big belay ledge. 7 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

5. Up and right under the big stalactite formation. 6 titanium bolts, 5 slings.

6. Up the wall to the right of a big structure. 3 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

7. Old pitch that traverses left on threads. Dangerous and never climbed.

Three raps with a 60m rope on separate abseil anchors from the top of pitch 5. If you have a 70m rope, you can rap straight from the top of pitch 6 to the next set of anchors.

Starts on the very right edge of the upper terrace. Start is a little hard to read. 5 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

Old bolts and slings, overgrown. Cannot be climbed anymore.

Extension of 'Thai Tham Nean'. Also only expansion bolts.

Shares the start with 'Asia Shadow Play'. Traverses right, then up along the crack. Be careful, the crux just above the ledge is badly protected. All titanium bolts.

Great climbing, but very popular and polished. Bouldery move to easy climbing and ridiculous tubular jugs. Left and up, Choose your own adventure from here to anchors at the cave. All titanium bolts.

All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Kuahtittnseppl.

6m left of 'Made in Spain'. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Righthand route on the belay ledge. 4 titanium bolts, 5 slings.

Shares the start with '4:20', then right. A bit awkward to exit the overhang. Unfortunate bolt placement at the crux, with the rope getting in your way. 11 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Climb up in the small roof right of 'Baby Snake'. 2 titanium bolts, 10 slings.

Climbs the tufa system on the very right side of the wall. Hard crux for the grade. 5 titanium bolts, 5 slings.

Very polished on the crux, just after traversing left onto the wall. Stick-clip first bolt. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Share anchor with Fire Starter.

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Alternative second pitch of 'Shaft of Light'. Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Could be the best multi pitch at the grade on the peninsular. Great climbing, especially on the upper pitches. Access by climbing the first pitch of 'The Monitor'. Then scramble up left into a big cave with multiple windows. Climb up right onto a ledge with two cave windows. Move down to the left side of the left window to find the belay anchor.

1. Facing out the cave, left up onto a ledge.

2. Same as 'Snakeskin' P2. Traverse the big ledge to the right for three bolts. This is more a hike then climbing and can be linked with P1. Use the left anchor.

3. From the anchor head straight up through overhanging terrain over multiple ledges. End up in a hanging belay to the right of the huge stalactite feature.

4. Follow 3 horizontal lined up bolts to another anchor onto the big stalactite. From here straight up through a crack onto the face. Enjoy the view but keep focused on the climb, it's mental. 15 quickdraws needed.

Bring two 60m ropes to rap off. Fix the second rope at the anchor of P2 and use it to pull yourself back while abseiling (overhanging rock).

Starts left of the anchor of 'Snakeskin' P2. Climbs up to an anchor a bit below left of the anchor of 'Monkey See, Monkey Do', under a stalactite.

The leftmost line on the upper belay ledge. 8 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

Certainly one of the most polished climbs in Ton Sai! Hard and pumpy for the grade. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb until rebolted!

Variation left of 'Little Fish P1'. Only bolted with expansion bolts. Climb in toprope.

3 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

The middle line from the belay anchor. Shares the start with 'Rawn Chip Hei', then veers right. All titanium bolts.

All slings. Old protection. Be prepared to replace slings.

4 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Share anchor with Primal Scream.

Awesone route!! the anchor is after the sling up to the left.

All stainless steel glue-in bolts.

Starts at the top of 'The Sluggard Prince' and shares the anchor with P2 of 'The King and I'. Straight up for 3 clips, then crosses over P2 of 'The King and I'. Continues up right to under a small roof, then left and up to the belay cave. From the anchor it is a 60m rap to the ground. Very sustained climbing. 6 bolts, 8 slings.

The classic line at 'Candlestick Wall'. All titanium bolts.

1. Take the righthand variation of the first pitch, which leads you to the right of the two belay anchors in a small cave. 12 bolts.

2. From the belay ledge,take the line straight up along crystal-lined pockets to the anchor below the topout tunnel. 11 bolts.

3. Chimney up the tunnel to reach the top of the Thaiwand. 1 sling.

Steep start on tufas. Then up a balancy crack to a fingery crux and a powerful finish on big juggy holds. 6 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Starts right of 'Milky Way', then joins it after traversing left along the crack. Straight up to the anchor of 'Hello Christine'. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Shares the first two bots with 'The Marlin'. Climb up in the cave and traverse out on the face. Then go straight up and to the left. All titanium bolts

The lower part of the climb needs to be cleaned on toprope to prevent big swings into the trees.

Climbs 'Shadow Show', then veers right and finishes on the anchor of 'Shooting Through'. 4 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Shares the start with 'Nuat Hin' and Bad Boy. Then traverses right at the overhang and up the pillar. 4 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Crux at the first overhang. Be careful, a lead fall can be dangerous with the ledge below. All titanium bolts.

Lefthand second pitch of 'Kratoy'. Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb unless rebolted!

Variation of 'One Thousand Knives'. Shares the start, then further left to a separate anchor. Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb unless rebolted!

Shares the start with the popular guiding route 'King Cobra' and Orientales. The traverses and continues left to the anchor of 'Make a Way'. All titanium bolts.

Excellent long route that seems to get very little traffic. Start as for 'Confusion' and King Cobra, but then straight up after the traverse to the left. All titanium bolts.

Old slings and expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Not rebolted with titanium. 5 stainless steel glue-in bolts, 1 sling.

Rightmost line on 'Duncan's Boot'. Sharp rock. 3 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Be careful at the crux after the second clip, badly protected. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb! Share anchor with Dungeon.

Not rebolted with titanium. P1 on stainless glue-ins, P2 old expansion bolts.

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Loose rock. All slings.

Second pitch of 'Nullaktion'. Old slings and expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Called 'Diamonds are Forever' on some guidebooks, which is only the name of the second pitch. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Second pitch of 'Les Petites Oreilles'. 7 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Shares anchors with P1 of 'Seven Seven Seven'. 3 titanium bolts, 6 slings. 1st pitch of Almost Heaven.

Veers right about halfway of 'Electric Crack'. 3 old slings in the upper section. Bring trad gear!

Shares anchors with 'Mind over Matter' and 'Lee Rong Hai'. Just one old expansion bolt. Do not climb!

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Old slings and rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb! Share start with 1st pitch of Stairway to Paradise.

The leftmost line. Titanium bolts and slings.

Titanium bolts.

Needs rebolting. Old stainless steel glue-ins. Share anchor with 1st pitch of Razorback.

Rebolted in 2008, but only with stainless steel glue-ins. Do not climb unless rebolted!

Starts just left of 'Babies in the Sky'. All TI bolts.

Shares the start with 'Kaeng Raeng', then right after the first sling. Finishes on the anchor slightly to the left. All TI bolts.

Starts on the boulder, just right of 'Exfoliation'. All TI bolts.

Right of ladder, overhanging start, then up slab, finish on pedestal ledge.

Starts right of the boulder. Unique climbing with a technical ending on an arete. 10 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

7 titanium bolts, 7 slings.

Second line on the huge tufa system. Anchor right next to 'Deflowered'. Maybe stick-clip the first sling. 8 titanium bolts, 8 slings.

3 titanium bolts, 10 slings.

Shares the start with 'EFZ', then right and up to the higher anchor. 6 titanium bolts, 8 slings.

Family Affair extension, 1 sling, 4 bolts, + anchor. 80 metre rope can lower back to ground, put a knot on the end to be safe.

The start is just before you walk up the stepping stones to the main crag, half way up the small hill on top of the boulder. Shares start with "Cave Racer"

Shares the start with Alpha Male. Goes a bit left of the second clip then follows the left side of the arete.

Starts left of the small cave. Stay left of the big tree, and climb through the roof.

Must-do climb. Maybe a bit harder. All titanium bolts.

The right-most extension of either 'Round the Outside' or 'Chong Phli Posse'. Shares the start with 'Flying Snake' and Fin de Chalam, then veers right. 31m to the ground. 3 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

Right of 'Shady', purple slings and titanium bolts. 3D climbing through the bottom overhang onto the big fin. 2 titanium bolts, 6 slings.

The middle line starting from the big ledge. Accessed by climbing 'Hell in a Bucket'. Shares the first 2 slings with 'Dark Star', then left up a white streak, following the yellow slings. 25m from the ground. 3 titanium bolts, 5 slings, 1 fixed draw.

Climb up and right, follow blue slings, anchor on right below roof. Top rope is highly recommended for draws cleaning.

Long and fun! 14 clips

Climb as one pitch, 28m to the ground from the top. 11 titanium bolts, 6 slings. Take 19 draws, you can get by with 17 if you use the anchors…

Straight up the steep orange-white rock into the white tufa pipes. Joins up with 'The Passenger' about halfway. 6 titanium bolts, 9 slings.

Bolder first bolt (crux), followed by glorious climbing on jugs and slopes to anchor.

Overhang start, then up tufa corner. Amazing classic!

FUN DEE

Dream Wall, Ao Nang

6b+, 138m (Plus 7a+ bonus 12m pitch)

Approach:

Follow the fixed line to the right all the way to the first bolt. The route is located left of the tree stump.

1. 30m, 15 bolts, 1 sling, 5.10c (6b) Start on okay rock past a stump. Then into great but tricky white pockets and side pulls. Belay at slot ledge.

2. 30m, 15 bolts 5.10b (6a+) Start in steep exposed climbing to a good rest and then up fantastic rock. Belay at nice hanging ledge 7m below the 420 bivy cave.

3. 25m, 13 bolts, 1 sling, 5.10a (6a) Climb more great rock past the 420 cave and through the chute. Back clean a draw or two to avoid drag. Belay at a hanging rap station OR move belay left to nicer ledge (must build own anchor on two bolts)

4. 30m, 14 bolts, 1 sling, 5.10d (6b+) Trend left to steep pocket cruxy move. Then some steep tuffa. Belay at a sharp ledge.

5. 23m, 9 bolts, 1 sling, 5.10b (6a+) Starts sharp and gets good with a cruxy compression move up high. Sick stem finale out to the mega diving board (which has free wifi)!

6. (bonus pitch) 12m, 5 bolts, 2 slings, 5.12a (7a+) Steep exposed tufa!

Make sure to sign the summit register when reaching the platform.

Descent:

6-5: lower to the diving board

5-4: abseil

4-3: swing right to anchor with ring

3-2: back clip in chute to stay in close to the wall (important!)

2-1: swing right to reach slot

1-ground: abseil

Required:

16 draws Single 60m rope Long anchor sling (optional)

Share anchor with Valhalla.

Extension to the second anchor of '5 Star'

3 titanium bolts, 5 slings.

Second pitch to Sut-yawd.

8 bolts, 3 threads

Be careful when clipping at roof!

Share anchor with Trigger.