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Shaman

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Description

Beautiful compact grey rock. This sector is high but the routes are bolted in 3 pitches, the lower pitches are between 5b and 7b, the middle ones between 6c+ and 7c, and the third ones above 7c. Great climbing for cold days as it is very sunny.

Approach

Same as for "Uzak Zürafa" but just before you reach the cliff, take the obvious trail to the left, first flat and then going up along the cliff. Take the first turn-off to the right to reach the right end of Shaman, hard to miss.

Ethic inherited from Datça

You are in a mediterranean environment with sometimes strong winds and dry forrests. It is absolutely forbidden to make fires or camp in the nature. Any wrong doing might result in closing of this beautiful climbing spot!

New bolting should only be done using stainless steel glue-in bolts!

Routes

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Grade Route

Set: olivier, Mar 2015

Set: olivier, Mar 2015

Set: olivier, Mar 2015

Extension of Baba Zula.

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

Set: olivier, Mar 2015

Extension of Bulut.

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

Set: olivier, Mar 2015

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

Extension of "El kedi".

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

Extension of Nico3D (2nd pitch).

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

Extension of Arcator (3rd pitch).

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

Same start as Nico3D but right (straight) exit. Starts at the crack / broken corner just left of the bulge.

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

Extension of Escalator.

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

Set: olivier, Jan 2015

Extension of Mercan dede (2nd pitch).

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

Extension of Wazabi (3rd pitch). Shares anchor with "Be brave, escape!".

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

Shares anchor with "Never stop Köfteing".

Set: olivier, Mar 2015

Shares anchor with "Serial kinder". The right route that starts in the bulge.

Set: Adrien Boulon & Yannik Bonnin, Mar 2015

Set: Yannik Bonnin, Jan 2015

Extension of Zenith.

Set: Adrien Boulon, Mar 2015

Set: Carla Häsler & olivier, Jan 2015

Extension of Sulh (2nd pitch).

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

Left extension of "TomTom finger" (3rd pitch). Shares anchor with Orkinos.

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

Right extension of "TomTom finger" (alternative 3rd pitch).

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

Extension of "Görkova".

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

Set: olivier, Mar 2015

Extension of Shaman (2nd pitch).

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

Extension of "DJ shaman" (3rd pitch).

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

Set: olivier, Mar 2015

1 7a+ 46m
2 7a+/b 34m
3 7b 44m

"Incantation" is a wonderful single pitch route on the right side of sector Shaman that was up opened up by Swiss climber, olivier in March 2015.

Incantation Revelation is a high-quality multi-pitch extension of Incantation that continues to the top of Indian Man (The prominent cliff face in Datça). This was the first sport route that tackles the headwall in its entirety and was opened up in January of 2022 through a team effort by traveling Alaskan, German and British climbers. (Nick Weicht, Dani Feil & Cameron Clouston)

Incantation Revelation can be done in three or four pitches, depending on whether or not one wants to skip the third pitch intermediate anchor. The climbing style is varied and rock quality is consistently high from top to bottom making for a wonderful climbing experience if one is able to tackle the grade. The bolt spacing is user-friendly and consistent with the president that has been on most routes in Datça.

P1. 7a+, 20 bolts, 46 meters. Start up Incantation for a high-quality face climbing experience on glew-in bolts for 33 meters. Continue another 13 meters past the Incantation anchor on expansion bolts up the steep and sometimes intimidating looking face, trending slightly right near the top. Cauliflower rock may rough but there is a path through and a great deal of beautiful climbing beyond. In dry conditions you can enjoy jugs and side pulls to the right. If the tufa is seeping it may be a better option to punch straight up the face where you will discover a two bolt anchor that is located at the first large ledge in the dihedral directly above a cave.

P2. 7a+/b, 14 bolts, 34 meters. Climb from the nice belay ledge and trend slightly left on steep balancey arete / inside corner moves. Pull onto high quality face climbing through vertical terrain before the angle eases off but the difficulty does not. Take your time at the ledge before firing off one last three bolt sequence at a steep arete before reaching a set of chains at a comfy belay.

P3. 7a, 19 draws 44 meters. From the belay, follow bolts up the arete to a sloped ledge for an nice rest. Pull through a steep section of technical climbing before entering into a dihedral. At the 22 meter mark you will encounter a two-bolt anchor that can be used as an intermediate belay or continue for another 22 meters of 6c+ quality, steep climbing on the upper face to the top of the cliff.

Descent: (Walk Off) If conditions are windy it is highly advised to walk off and avoid rope snag potential. Continue from the two bolt chain anchor at the top of the steep climbing and scramble an additional 10 meters. These fourth class moves are protected by 1 bolt and will lead to a two bolt anchor with no rap rings located beyond the top of the cliff. Walk / scramble third class terrain, trending left and uphillfor about 150 meters. Always stay within 10 meters of the ridge line until you reach the summit and be cautious not to knock loose rocks over the edge of the cliff where climbers may be located below. Continue to follow the ridge left and downhill for another 200 meters until you arrive at the saddle. From the saddle follow a trail and karens (rock piles) downhill staying roughly 10 m away from the base of the cliff and work your way to sector Nastrolopitheque. Continue on the well-established approach trail to Sektor Shaman.

(Rappel) If wind is not a factor you can descend to the route using a variety of anchors from a variety of climbs including Incantation Revelation or Abusez moi ! The most straightforward is listed below.

(80 meter rope) If you have an 80 meter rope rappel directly down the chain anchors of Incantation Revelation. Be sure to start with two short 22 meter raps that avoid rope snag potential. Mind your rope ends because the last last rap is a rope stretcher that will get you safely to the ramp below yet still give you a couple meters of easy scrambling before arriving at flat ground.

Set: Nick Weicht, Dani Feil & Cameron Clouston, 7 Feb 2022

Same start as Incantation but directly right towards the big hole on top.

Set: olivier, Mar 2015

1 6a 35m
2 7b 35m
3 7a+ 35m
4 7a+ 35m

Dünya - After the dog that kept us company during our stay in Datça.

Starts with “Lahmacun sokak” and traverses to the right. 7b (7a+obl.) 130m.

This 7th grade multipitch takes you to the upper part of the south face of Indian man. Delicate slab climbing on the good quality grey limestone and some vertical climbing on pocketed yellow rock takes you almost to the top of the wall. Bring 17 quickdraws and a 70m rope. Descent with four 35m abseils to the left to the start of the route.

Note: Climbing to the top of the wall is possible if you take a few cams (BD 3, 2 and 0.2) and a kingsling. Walking down, with some easy climbing, can be done to both sides of the mountain. The descent by abseiling down is more convenient though.

Set: Rosemerijn Struijk & Sjors Verberg, 26 Feb 2022

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Olivier Nicolet

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9781399914710

A comprehensive guidebook describing the sport climbing at Datca in southwest Turkey near Bodrum, covering 311 routes from F4's to F9a.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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