Routes in Midlands for selected grade

A good steep route up the right hand arete of the tower that develops at half height. Pull up on some large holds and climb steeply past a thread runner to the horizontal break, ring bolt above. No E2 tick if you bridge right. Step left and climb the front face to a peg runner and a tricky exit.

Start up centre of undercut by the cave(by dead good)(6a) or over left hand end at 5c. Peg on the right above. Straight up to second peg. Then straight up the hard headwall with a good bit of exposure.

Technical though rather artifical. The left edge of the wall leads past a small bulge to a bolt runner. Finish directly up the blunt arete

Ascend the unprotected arête located on the right side of the descent path. Prior to the climb, it may be necessary to clear any ivy obstructing the route.

Ascend the face situated immediately to the right of the arete while executing a challenging manoeuvre to surpass the initial low bolt.

Beyond this point, a stretch of inferior rock swiftly gives way, paving the path for exceptional climbing on exquisite brown rock.

Commence with your left hand in the pockets and ascend directly to the solid holds, reaching the finishing point.

Start right of the central groove, reaching up and leftwards to grasp a square hold positioned at the top.

The start of the route is very awkward but not as hard as it looks. Traverse off left or jump off, or continue to the top - it's about HVS.

An impressive line but usually dirty and seldom climbed. Traverse out right to enter the inverted scoop in the overhangs and exit rapidly up a short crack. Unprotected and harrowing.

Left of the big roof, start from the ledge and move up and right to finish just right of the small pinnacle.

Crack School No. 7 in BMC Definitive Guidebook.

How's your offwidth technique? Crack School no. 9 in BMC Definitive Guide

Disappear into the holly.

Climb the centre of the left-hand side-wall of the gully, passing a useful flake to an exit on the left.

Good bold climbing though escapable. Climb the bulges (reachy) then straight up the centre of the face to the final crack of Bengal Buttress.

Climb the rounded arete to reach the steeper rock then take the wall above, left then right, then finally left again.

22m. Grippingly precarious, especially for the tall. From runners in the thin crack teeter rightwards along the highest break until the horizontal crack can be reached. Swing along this and climb the excellent jamming crack at its end.

Links The Mincer with the end of the traverse of The Swan. via some bold and reachy climbing. Finish rapidly up this.

Climb the centre of the front face direct, starting over the butch overhang, crossing the diagonal cracks and finishing with a flourish at a notch in the final narrow wall. A bit of a non-line but with some fine climbing if you are strict.

Climb the blunt arete (as for Death Knell) and step left onto the slab and balance carefully up this, avoiding the shrubs.

Pull through the roof further to the right using the thin crack and continue up its wider extension.

The squeezed in slab with a side runner.

An ultra-bold route with gear at around 4m. Side-runners either side lower the grade to somewhere between HVS and E2 dependent on how high they are.

through L of pod

from lip under roof to slopey crimps

#highball