Routes in South-West England for selected grade

Tucked away high above the traffic on the extreme left of the Unknown Wall is this exciting and very exposed pitch. Approach via a vegetated path that rises up leftwards under the wall from the base of the face. Follow the path for 100m to a final steep step which ends at a good vegetated ledge and small tree belay on the right, with a cave 5m above and right. Move up a small rib to a spike at its top and step right to a ledge beneath the left side of the overhung cave. Climb very steeply through the overhang on loose looking, but good solid holds to a small tree. Move up to a peg and then follow thin cracks to the top.

An alternative finishing pitch taking the arête right of the top corner pitch of Us which is said to be easier than it looks. Belays off big bertha, the purpose made metal tube, in-situ above the arête tat lies between the top pitch of banshee and pilgrim's progress.

The short ragged crack

1. 5b, 25m.

2. 10m

3. 4c, 20m

4. 4b, 15m

Pitch 1 of The Featherless Biped.

Starts from the big tree of Nightmare, climb Nightmare and traverse off easily to the right to join Flash Gordon's Trip to Mars just at the end of its 6a slab part (peg, cluster of good gear). Following Flash Gordon's Trip to Mars from here onwards, make a 5a move followed by some 4c climbing well above the gear to reach a ledge and then a steep but juggy finish. No independent climbing, but a very enjoyable finish for any of the climbs finishing around the big tree of Nightmare.

A novelty route making the best of the limited rock outside the left end of the fenced enclosure. Worthy for its lowly grade. It is currently approached, by the bulk of climbers, by squeezing through a small gap where the enclosure fence meets the rock. On no account should you climb attempt to surmount the wire fence or in any way risk damage. Pull up onto the top of a compact pillar then track diagonally leftwards to holds at the left end of the overlap above. With your hands on the slab above traverse back right and up to an abseil station atop Agua Colorado.

With a new lease of life, the route gives enjoyable stress-free climbing with consistent good protection. Start up the left side of the rib (small wire) and step across onto a ledge and a welcoming vertical nut slot ('hexs' useful). Climb the rib past two bolt runners to a slabby section (small wires) and the top of a projecting diamond-shaped block (bolt out on the left). From the niche above (hidden old peg), reach leftwards over the remaining bulge to another old peg (and good 1.5 + 2 cams) before traversing out left and stepping up onto a short slab. Finish past a final redundant peg to a shared double ring abseil station immediately above on the apex of the rib.

Originally E1 5a. Re-cleaned and re-equipped, with two extra bolts added in 2012.

An agreeable natural line with steady protection and thoughtful non-strenuous climbing. Start up the left side of the rib (small wire) to reach a ledge and a welcoming vertical nut slot ('hexs' useful). (all as for Night of the Comic Dead). Follow the ramp line diagonally rightwards past two new peg runners (with optional good protection variously down on the right) to reach a small complex overlap. Pull over rightwards into the scoop above, peg, and finish delicately rightwards to a shared double ring abseil station.

Originally E1 5a. Re-cleaned and two extra pegs added in 2012.

A surprisingly entertaining and worthwhile recent addition with plenty of gear. Start two metres left of Heartbeat City beneath a clear, narrow groove line. Climb the groove line to its close (old peg runner on the left and optional pair of pegs out right on Heartbeat City just reachable.) Step left beneath a good vertical nut slot and pull over onto the ramp of Pastiche. Follow the ramp past two pegs to an overlap, step left and then climb the right-side of the large diamond-shaped block above with a reachy move past a bolt runner. Finish at a double ring abseil station up on the right.

Stylish and exposed climbing up the left side of the buttress. Start on a belay ledge beneath a black streaked groove.

1. 5a, 20m. From the left side of the ledge take a narrow, diagonal ramp out leftwards to two good hidden pegs at the base of a white wall. Climb the wall to another peg and then move up and left to a big quarry spike just left of the arete. Move around to the left side of the arete and climb up over an overhang and belay below a rickety tree.

2. 4c, 16m. Move rightwards onto the face and make intricate moves right to the base of a shallow groove in the centre of the face. Climb the groove past a peg, all the way to a large tree at the top of the crag.

A strong line, good gear, and plenty of variety make this a worthwhile and popular route. Start on a belay ledge beneath a groove. Move easily up the wall right of the streaked groove and then step left to a small corner at 5m. Take the corner past a peg, and the relatively bold wall above on good holds to a ledge at the base of a right-leaning corner, where there are some more pegs. Climb the corner to a difficult and polished exit onto a ledge. Finish up easier rock to a large tree at the top of the crag.

1. 5a, 27m.

2. 5a, 25m.

3. 5a, 25m.

Main Wall's most famous line is a fine climb that follows a subtle left-to-right line of weakness through an intimidating rockscape. Start on a grassy ledge at the base of the line.

1. 5a, 25m. From the left-hand side of the ledge move boldly up a small corner in the blunt arete to double pegs which may be missing. Traverse right, beneath a line of overhangs past a number of pegs to a ledge under a shattered looking wall. Climb up rightwards across the wall to a corner and take this to a peg and nut belay on a slab, 5m below the main line of overhangs.

2. 4c, 32m. Climb up past a peg to the overhang and move over it on good holds. Head rightwards and up a broken rib before climbing back leftwards under a line of overhangs until it is possible to gain the base of a wide depression. Climb up the middle of the depression, to an exit left at the top.

1. 5b, 33m.

2. 5a, 27m.

Exposed and quirky traversing taking in some of Avon's most impressive locations. Start from The Gallery to the left of Lunchtime Ledge. Combined with Reveille or Mike's Mistake it forms a classically varied way up the cliff. The last pitch and a half is shared with Pink Wall Direct.

1. 16m. Traverse easily left beneath an overhang to a tree. Continue in the same line to pegs and a stance under the leaning headwall.

2. 4c, 22m. Down climb the groove on the left to point level with the lowest of the three huge iron spikes in the sheer left wall. Make a tricky move to grab the first spike and then romp up the spikes to a fine and very exposed stance - the Aerodrome stance.

3. 5a, 14m. Hand traverse left along the exposed rising break, pegs, and finish up the short easy corner.

1. 5a, 40m.

2. 5a, 10m.

Start as for Dexter and move halfway along the muddy ledge to where the first pitch finishes. Tackle the bulges above directly with a hard mantelshelf using small side pull crack (not part of dexter) to reach a small tree (thread). Once here climb a long run out section up and leftwards diagonally until reaching a polished undercut crack, follow this to tree belay on lunchtime ledge.

1. 4c, 27m.

2. 5a, 24m.

1. 5a, 15m.

2. 5a, 25m.

A classic and very bold line that gives a memorable climb. Start at a peg and nut belay at the top of the Exhibition Slab, as for Piton Route.

1. 5a, 23m. Climb straight up the blunt rib to a horizontal break, peg. Climb past the break on the right with difficulty and continue straight up to a second break and overlap, pegs. Pull over and climb boldly up and left, to gain a left-facing flake. Once again climb boldly up and left to a belay on a small sloping ledge below the midpoint of a red leaning wall. Poor bolt, good medium cam, peg and nuts up to the left.

2. 5a, 27m. Move right under the steep wall, pegs, until a dramatic step around the overhangs can be made to gain a good horizontal slot. Step right and up past a hidden pocket in the steep wall to a final pull over the lip that gains an easy slab above. Continue to the top past several small trees (possible belays).

1. 4c, 15m.

2. 5a, 25m.

highball

Start at the big tree, and climb leftwards over blocky ground, before climbing the red wall direct to a niche. Go steeply left then exit rightwards. Easy climbing for the grade, with the super grippy rock and positive holds making up for the boldness.

Note: Pegs and threads provide some protection, but may not take all krabs - a dmm spectre may not fit in the first peg but a phantom just fits.

From the base of the prow climb leftwards past a long pocket to the cave. With thread runners, leave the cave and take the blank looking face to the right to pocket and thread runners. Move back right and finish up the grove to double ring belay.

One of the Avon Gorge's most famous pitches that usually pulls in a crowd of viewers on the suspension bridge. Start on a good ledge 5m right of the arete below a pocketed crystal crack and just right of a vegetated groove. Move up the crack and then head left to a small groove that leads to a ledge system at 10m. Head left to the arete and make some tricky moves to a wide, pocketed runnel. Take the runnel to a horizontal break and move right into an easier finishing corner. Belay and abseil post on the left

1. 5a, 40m.

2. 4c, 12m.

3. 5a, 12m.

Right side of the buttress, crossing the lines of Limbic Dystrophy and Rock on Ruby to create a trio of worthwhile routes. The first pitch is directly under the line of the abseil descent, providing an opportunity for inspection and further cleaning.

Start 7m right of the start of Limbic Dystrophy at a pair of metal reinforcing rods.

Pitch 1 30m 4b/c Climb up and trend slightly left on compact rock passing two small bays (peg). Cross cleaned ledges to a pocketed wall and traverse right 3m using pockets (peg). Climb the pocketed wall up a slight groove to an interesting hole (old peg above). Climb compact rock to a large rad rhomboidally-shaped rock (nut and cam belays abound).

[An alternative is to start up Limbic Dystrophy and at the slab below the initial arete to trend rightwards to join the first pitch at the pocketed wall.]

Pitch 2 30m 5a To the left is a right-facing corner. Climb this (peg) using an inconspicuous pocket with interesting moves to reach a break. Climb the groove/arete of Limbic Dystrophy then continue directly up the arete above in a splendid position. Belay at the large ash tree.

An amusing alternative is to start by climbing onto the red rhomboid and athletically ascend the white wall.

A new link up now the bridge shoring up is complete.

4 pitches 1 and 2 as for Hell Gates 3, traverse right from the belay, following the ledge, hexes useful, to the bottom of Hieronymous pitch 4, hidden thread belay. 4, Hieronymous pitch 4.

New abseil station by tree stump down to the right looking in. 60's reach the ground. Pruners and gloves de riguer.

This logical extension of the venerable traverse of Clan Union has been in the pending tray since the opening up of the right hand side of the buttress with the ascent of Lymbic Dystrophy and Rock on Ruby. Consequently the new climbing is the section between Lymbic Dystrophy to the point where it meets the original start for Hell Gates. Pitch 1: 22m Climb Lymbic Dystrophy to the initial ramp of Rock on Ruby. Belay in the niche (small wires and small cams). Pitch 2: 21m. Ascend 3m to an old peg in the break. Climb leftwards along the break, intially across an easy bay, then far more thoughtfully after the rib on Heironymous, dropping a little below the break itself to maintain the grade. Well protected for both leader and second. Pitch 3 and 4 are as Clan Union