Help

Biblins Cave

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 15

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

South west facing limestone roof. If any bats are spotted at the cave please report to crag moderator immediately and make sure to read the access details below! And have fun.

Description

Only from May - September.

Access:

Park as for Doward Campsite car park. DO NOT DRIVE DOWN TO BIBLINS CAMPSITE, PARK AND WALK PAST GREEN BARIER.

DO NOT DRIVE PAST GREEN BARRIER. (Driving past the green barrier could stop ambulances from reaching Biblins Campsite which is very very bad!)

Walk downhill past a low green barrier and then straight into the woods. Go down past the quarry on the right, keep going down in till the main path goes off right, and you will see a slightly rocky path in front of you, follow this down until you reach some limestone "steps", scramble down and the cave will be on the left.

DO NOT VEAR FROM PATH OR REMOVE ANY VEGITATION!.

Natural England have been great to work with in unbanning the cave for bouldering here, however there are many RULES THAT MUST BE STUCK TO, or the cave will be banned again almost instantly.

Rules:

1.Bouldering only! No gear, no routes, no bolts, no top roping.

  1. No removal of any vegetation no matter how minimal, with no exceptions what so ever. This is a nature conservation site and an SSSI (site of special scientific interest) so although a plant or tree may look ordinary, some of them are the only know locations in the country.

3.Only allowed to climb from May - September each year because of possible hibernating bats. There are no bats currently present in the cave but if you see any please report to crag moderator (James Squire) immediately.

  1. Stick to the paths (see access details), no cutting corners or walking off on tangents. Try and avoid stepping on plants or ferns, or snapping twigs off trees.

  2. Stick to the cave area and walls either side, as this is the only area unbanned, do not climb in Arthurs Cave which is a tourist attraction about 500m from this cave.

6.General bouldering rules e.g. don't drop litter etc. http://www.climbingworks.com/

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Traverse through the left of the cave and finish up The Bulge

Connects "Godzilla Sit“ and "Spaceship“.

FA: Sam Blackwell, 2022

FA: James Squire, 2018

Information needed

This crag does not have approach information. Could you describe the approach to this crag?

If you can help provide a better quality resource for the climbing community then please click 'edit this crag' button near the top of the page.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gordon Jenkin and Mark Davies

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781800681361

A comprehensive guidebook describing over 400 sport routes in the Lower Wye Valley at Wyndcliff Quarry, Black Cliff Quarry, Woodcroft Quarry, Wintour’s Leap, Ban-y-gor, and Tintern Quarry.

Author(s): Steve Broadbent

Date: 2024

ISBN: 9781913167127

A selective guidebook describes the best sport climbing areas in the southern half of England and Wales, describing 101 crags and over 4,600 routes covering Carmarthen Bay, the Gower Peninsula, Swansea Bay, the Welsh Valleys, Gilwern, the Wye Valley, Avon, north side of Cheddar Gorge, Portland, Lulworth, Swanage, Devon, and Cornwall.

Author(s): Mark Glaister

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9781873341889

10 top climbing areas of the southwest of England - Wye Valley, Avon and Somerset, North Devon, Culm Coast, Inland Cornwall, Atlantic Coast, West Penwith, The Lizard, Inland Devon and Torbay

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Tue 9 May
Check out what is happening in Biblins Cave.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文