Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Tue 22nd Aug 2023 - Mount Pleasant | ||||||
Right Cliff | ||||||
26 |
★★ Gruse Power
![]() | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Done on pre-placed gear, so could have been better style and maybe I’ll return for a proper red point one day. Gear would be finicky to place on lead, but possible. I climbed to the right of the topo line, not sure how most do it. It’s easier this way, but also protectable without top roping half the route or soloing. Happy to subtract a point or two, as it’s still a cracker of a line.
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Tue 16th May 2023 - Mount Pleasant | ||||||
Right Cliff | ||||||
24 |
★★ Sheltered Childhood
![]() | 14m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Quite a unicorn for NZ: an actual crack, with actual jams, good rock, and no bolts. Packs a lot into 14m! Will be back for the proper red point, gear is good but sometimes finicky.
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Thu 8th Dec 2022 - Three Sisters | ||||||
The Middle Sister | ||||||
25 |
★ Anti-Tantie
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Ridiculously short, but actually good fun! Quite a bouldery crux.
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Thu 8th Dec 2022 - Three Sisters | ||||||
The Twisted Sister | ||||||
25 |
★★ Onga Onga Left
![]() | 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Took longer than it should have today, but got it done. Quite sequential on small holds. Nearly as good as the original.
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Sat 3rd Dec 2022 - Three Sisters | ||||||
The Twisted Sister | ||||||
24 |
★★★ Onga Onga Via Interflora
![]() | 16m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fantastic, pumpy climbing the whole way. Quite varied: technical face, steep and juggy headwall, slab top. Well worth the longer approach!
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23 |
★ Trappic Trip
![]() | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Surprisingly fun! Definitely the steepest 23 in the Port Hills. Steeper than some of the routes at the Cave!
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Mon 28th Nov 2022 - Jane Fonda Workout Wall | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Melting Point
![]() | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
What a corker! Can confirm that this is the best 25 in the Port Hills, and possibly the favourite route I’ve done since moving to NZ. Sent first go today but had tried it once last year. So many fun moves, good till the last drop!
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Sat 26th Nov 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
26/27 |
★★ The Great White Wombat Hunt
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lap 5.
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26/27 |
★★ The Great White Wombat Hunt
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lap 4.
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21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
26/27 |
★★ The Great White Wombat Hunt
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Running laps today, 2x2 back to back.
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Thu 17th Nov 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
26/27 |
★★ The Great White Wombat Hunt
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm down.
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26/27 |
★★ The Great White Wombat Hunt
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm up.
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Wed 16th Nov 2022 - Barnett Park | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
25 |
★ Straight, No Chaser
![]() | 13m, 6 | Average | |||
Two boulder problems separated by a no hands rest. Not the best route in the Cave, but fun nonetheless.
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Fri 11th Nov 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
28 |
★★ Silence Of The Wombats
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Turns out buying new shoes more than once a half decade was the beta I needed! Also not being sick. If Britten has a king line, I guess this is the one!
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26 26/27 |
★★ The Great White Wombat Hunt
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 7th Nov 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
26 |
★ Hunting Wombats in Silence
![]() | 6 | ★ Good | |||
A fun variant finish to the Wombat Hunt, with a couple of extra kneebars.
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27 26/27 |
★★ The Great White Wombat Hunt
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 5th Nov 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
27 26/27 |
★★ The Great White Wombat Hunt
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Always a pleasure.
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21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Standard double warm up.
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Wed 2nd Nov 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
Bathroom Vanity Area | ||||||
21 |
★★ Latin Lover
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm down.
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Wed 2nd Nov 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Double warm up.
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27 26/27 |
★★ The Great White Wombat Hunt
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warming up.
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Sat 29th Oct 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
27 26/27 |
★★ The Great White Wombat Hunt
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Almost a warm up.
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25 |
★★ The Butcher of Wall Street
![]() | 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Better than Thin Links IMO. Just need to get the sequence right and it’s all good.
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21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Double warm up.
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Wed 26th Oct 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
27 26/27 |
★★ The Great White Wombat Hunt
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Resend.
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21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Double warm up.
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Sun 23rd Oct 2022 - Mount Iron | ||||||
The Next Best Thing | ||||||
25 |
★ Mind Bender
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome dyno move but yucky rock.
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Sun 23rd Oct 2022 - Motatapu Valley | ||||||
Riverside Main Wall | ||||||
25 |
★★ Microcosmos
![]() | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Ended up using improvised beta on the fly, which worked a treat. Good power enduro climbing.
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Thu 20th Oct 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
Angel Face | ||||||
19 |
★ Adios Ingo
![]() | 13m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
27 26/27 |
★★ The Great White Wombat Hunt
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
Bathroom Vanity Area | ||||||
21 |
★★ Latin Lover
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
20 |
★★ What R U Reckon?
![]() | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 11th Oct 2022 - The Altar | ||||||
19 |
★ Catholic Girls
![]() | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
20 |
★ Hindu Love Gods
![]() | 11m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Tue 4th Oct 2022 - Lyttelton Rock | ||||||
Year Right Wall | ||||||
23 |
★ Grace
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Felt pretty sandy given that the crux is a V5ish boulder problem. Blocky and weird, but good nonetheless.
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Tue 4th Oct 2022 - Lyttelton Rock | ||||||
Ataturk Wall | ||||||
25 |
★★ Stemming Over Stu (Bridging Over Stuart)
![]() | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really quite rad, and really the only way to climb the groove of Bridging given the current state of the route. Felt about 24/25, not sure if it’s been done before.
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Sat 1st Oct 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Double warm up.
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27 26/27 |
★★ The Great White Wombat Hunt
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Happy to repeat this one today, starting to feel ready for Cave season.
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Thu 29th Sep 2022 - Lyttelton Rock | ||||||
The Thunderdome | ||||||
25 |
★★ Layer Cake
![]() | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
25 |
★★ Layer Cake
![]() | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fitness laps.
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Thu 22nd Sep 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Double warm up.
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Sun 18th Sep 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
22 |
★ Tropical Storm
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 18th Sep 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
Angel Face | ||||||
18 18/19 |
★ God's Teeth
![]() | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Wed 31st Aug 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
Cabbage Tree Wall | ||||||
24 |
★★ You Beauty Lefthand Variation
![]() | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very nice, at least as good as the original in my view.
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25 24 |
★ Bluto
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Calling this 24 is taking the piss, at least as hard as all 25s at Britten. Bold too!
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Sat 6th Aug 2022 - The Altar | ||||||
27 |
★★ McChurch
![]() | 9m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good to repeat this one, fun, powerful climbing.
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17 |
★★ The Pulpit
![]() | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat.
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Tue 2nd Aug 2022 - Cattlestop Crag | ||||||
Merlin Wall | ||||||
23 |
★ Bull In A China Shop
![]() | 10m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Fun roped boulder problem.
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Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
Hebe Jebe Wall | ||||||
24 |
★ Groove Direct
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Pretty fun once you figure out the sequences.
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Thu 14th Jul 2022 - Te Tihi-o-Kahukara / Castle Rock | ||||||
The Keep | ||||||
25 |
★★ Birth Canal
![]() | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I enjoyed this one a lot more today with stiffer shoes and without a cold. Flows nicely, but contrived to stay on the face at the top.
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25 |
★★ Rebirth
![]() | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nearly got the linkup first go, but foot popped near the top. I actually enjoyed this more than Birth Canal, as it’s more varied.
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Thu 7th Jul 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Triple warmup.
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Wed 6th Jul 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Double warm up. Might need a triple next time.
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Fri 1st Jul 2022 - Mount Pleasant | ||||||
Right Cliff | ||||||
23 |
★★ Go
![]() | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not the best style, but the gear is quite finicky and felt heads up to place on lead. Happy with the pink point for now, but may be back to do it properly.
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Thu 30th Jun 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
28 |
★★ The Zimmerframe Owner Strikes Back
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
F*ing finally! Switched up the beta above the last bolt for the win. Actually quite a nice route that flows well the whole way, glue notwithstanding.
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21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Double warmup.
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Mon 27th Jun 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up.
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21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 25th Jun 2022 - Barnett Park | ||||||
Leech Wall | ||||||
25 |
Conundrum
![]() | 20m | Average | |||
No idea what the intended beta is for bolts 2-3, felt impossible not to veer right into the crack. However, doing so made it easier than 25.
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Thu 23rd Jun 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
24 |
★ Thin Links
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
In some ways better than the standard finish, given that everyone traverses left to rest anyway. The original grade of 23 only applied to the upper headwall, so 24 feels about right after climbing the first 4 bolts of the Butcher.
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Sat 18th Jun 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
Yellow Wall | ||||||
26 |
★ Yellow Peril
![]() | 7 | ★ Good | |||
Some crumbly sections, but the exposure and movement up top is enjoyable. A very soft touch at 26.
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Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
27 26 |
★★ Wall Street Crumble
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Took me more goes to repeat this one than it did to send it first time around, but still managed to pull it off!
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Sun 12th Jun 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
24 |
★★ Weet-Bix Suction
![]() | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
First go, but can’t call it a flash as I had done the two independent routes before. Very good, very sustained.
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21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Double warmup.
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Sat 11th Jun 2022 - Lyttelton Rock | ||||||
Ataturk Wall | ||||||
21 |
★ Diablo
![]() | 24m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up. So frosty today, could barely feel the fingers!
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24 |
★ Location, Location, Location
![]() | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
A lot better than I initially gave it credit for, although somewhat discontinuous with the ledge rest in the middle. The overhanging arête is good fun!
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Sat 11th Jun 2022 - Lyttelton Rock | ||||||
The Thunderdome | ||||||
21 |
★ Art for Art's Sake
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up.
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Wed 8th Jun 2022 - Mount Pleasant | ||||||
Right Cliff | ||||||
20 |
★★ Winters Road
![]() | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Took a lot of goes to tick this one on lead, and I still didn’t properly red point it! Felt hard given my rusty thrutching skills and the finicky gear at the crux. I didn’t know routes like this one existed in NZ, I’m stoked!
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18 |
★★ Neanderthal
![]() | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm up/repeat.
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Sat 4th Jun 2022 - Mount Pleasant | ||||||
Right Cliff | ||||||
24 24/25 |
★ Slip Knot
![]() | 8m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Took a few goes to sort out the beta. Initially felt very hard, but on the send was almost trivial. Hard to grade. Probably a V3 boulder problem, quite balancey and sequential.
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Fri 3rd Jun 2022 - Barnett Park | ||||||
Leech Wall | ||||||
25 |
★ PHD
![]() | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Dirty(obviously), but the filth hides some really fun moves, particularly from the 5th bolt to the chains. A lot better than expected!
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Sun 15th May 2022 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||||||
Indian Springs Falls Walls | ||||||
5.7 |
★ Middle - Left
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Cleaning.
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5.12- |
★★ When The Levee Breaks
![]() | 9m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Basically a roped boulder problem, but it’s a gooder!
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Fri 13th May 2022 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||||||
The Emeralds The Benches Kudos Cliff | ||||||
5.10a |
★ Fake news
![]() | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Apparently I did this one years ago, but seemed new again today. Good fun!
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Fri 6th May 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Double warm up.
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Tue 3rd May 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up 2
|
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Fri 29th Apr 2022 - Jane Fonda Workout Wall | ||||||
25 |
★★ Rigor Mortice
![]() | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Didn’t read the crux well on the onsight attempt. Went fairly easily second go, but still got me breathing!
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23 |
★★ L'Actic Ingredient
![]() | 13m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Stuffed up the sequence first go, went well second time up. Surprisingly pumpy for a short route.
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Mon 25th Apr 2022 - Bivvy Rock | ||||||
25 25/26 |
★ 4X
![]() | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Very unique boulder problem on this one. Would be an impressive onsight, but once worked out the sequence flows nicely. No idea about what the grade should be. Technically harder than most 25s but the crux is quite short.
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Sat 23rd Apr 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
Cabbage Tree Wall | ||||||
24 |
★ Vertical Plummet
![]() | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Tricky start then burly moves above the roof. Would be better if the right hand variation hadn’t been bolted; it’s a fine line on its own.
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Sat 23rd Apr 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
21 |
★★ U Haul
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up 2
|
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25 |
★★ Mt Pleasant Butcher
![]() | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Resend
|
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Tue 19th Apr 2022 - Pōhara | ||||||
Bo Peep Slab | ||||||
25 |
★★ Red Tape
![]() | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Figured out beta for the crux that worked well despite the spoogy holds. A great scene here on a rainy day in Pōhara.
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Mon 18th Apr 2022 - Pōhara | ||||||
Why? Wall | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Why?
![]() | 22m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
The perfect punter’s 25. Had to dig deep to pull this one off in the blazing afternoon sun, 3rd day on. Great climbing, but the crux is all in a clip.
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Sun 17th Apr 2022 - Paynes Ford | ||||||
Stone Symposium Wall | ||||||
26 |
★ Sunday Picnic
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Minging holds at the crux and dirty, but worth a lap.
|
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Wed 13th Apr 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
Cabbage Tree Wall | ||||||
25 |
Popeye
![]() | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Not great, but had to be done.
|
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Sat 9th Apr 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
Winter Wall | ||||||
21 |
★ The Rocket
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Cleaning.
|