Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Zona | Calidad | Escalador | Fecha | |||
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28 | |||||||||
28 |
★★★ Ozymandias (free version)
![]()
1
28
267m
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
| 270m | Mount Buffalo | Mié 5.º En 2022 | |||||
Abseiled to Big Grassy from lookout. Fixed the ab rope to belay at the end of pitch 6 (before traverse left) and at nice belay on arête after the corner on pitch 5 on the way down.
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25 |
★★★ Ozymandias (free version)
![]()
3
25
30m
| 55m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Megaclásica | Jue 17.º Mar 2022 | ||||
Pretty rad to be down playing on this wall. Not sure how many opportunities i’ll have to try the route whilst working on this film about Duncan with Tristan and Tom for TNF but was cool to have a play as Duncan rested. Seconded pitch one first go which was pretty chill and then did three back to back laps on the 25 pitch. I went up it first to figure it out and fell off a few times, came down to the stance just above the balancy start and climbed from there to the top but figured I should do it properly so lowered back down to the belay and did it pulling the rope through the grigri the whole time which was a bit brutal. Hopefully it feels easier on lead.
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25 |
★★★ Ozymandias (free version)
![]()
3
25
30
Too wet and scared
4
24
35
Psyched to get this one while removing the wires with a nut tool - calf pump was real!
5
22
30
2 sits, what a wild pitch amazing moves. So cold belaying as the corner went into the shade
6
22
35
Pulled on 2 carrots, mossy, wet and cold tips!
7
19
15
Needed more #2’s didn’t commit to any run outs
8
14
20
Wet and mossy, stood on the piton - on route to the trolls toll to the boy soul
9
10
25
Rope got stuck so self belayed! Lost a gate, a small price to pay the toll troll to enter the hole!! Sunshine was welcomed | 190m | Mount Buffalo | Dom 18.º Dic 2022 | |||||
Abseiled into big grassy! 1 shivering night on the ledge, freed 90% despite dogging every pitch other then the 24 and the troll toll hole to sunshine glory. Dave really was the MVP - the power of friendship got this one done! A little above my pay grade but stoked to aim to free this rig with little to no climbing of late
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27 | |||||||||
27 |
★★★ Bell Boys Bereavement
![]() | 30m, 8 | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Clásico | Lun 27.º Dic 2021 | ||||
Wanted to see what a 27 on granite felt like. Spoiler alert: HARD!
Couldn’t figure out the last bolt, but got the rest. Also gave me an excuse to run another lap of Lift Ladies |
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25 M1 | |||||||||
24 M1 25 M1 |
★★ Eureka Uprising
![]() | 370m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Buena | Mié 2.º Nov 2022 | ||||
A big undertaking (13 pitches)!! Desperately needs a few dodgy screw-in bolts replaced on pitches 2 and 3.
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25 | |||||||||
25 |
★ Salt Lake City
![]() | 170m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
25 |
★★ Fuhrer
![]() | 140m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
25 |
★★ Fuhrer
![]() | 140m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
25 |
The Devil Rides Out
![]() | 72m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
25 |
★★ Fuhrer
![]() | 140m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | ||||
20 |
Straight Edge P2
![]()
2
| 160m | Mount Buffalo | Sáb 14.º Feb 2004 | |||||
24 | |||||||||
24 |
★★ The Tourist Route
![]() | 10m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Muy buena | 1995 | ||||
Excvellent sport route, hard last move and hard 1st move
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24 |
★ Bastardos Inglesis (Bustardos Inglesis)
![]() | 12m, 4 | Mount Buffalo | Medio | 1992 | ||||
Interesting and very hard
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24 |
★ Bustardos Inglesis
![]() | 12m, 4 | Mount Buffalo | 1998 | |||||
20 |
★★ Substance Abuse P2
![]()
2
| 95m | Mount Buffalo | Sáb 14.º Feb 2004 | |||||
24 |
★★ Arch Rivals
![]() | 95m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Muy buena | Dom 8.º Feb 2015 | ||||
Definately a mixed-bag adventure. P1 - O/S, okay climbing up a left leaning corner crack, but extremely mossy, dirty and vegetated. P2 - 2nd Clean, balancy and techy off belay, hard flared crack to stance, and sustained technical jamming to the belay. A bit dirty but still climbable. P3 - Dog, one BIG fall between last 2 bolts on committing steep layback. Very spaced bolts and gear. Consistant, sustained and varied climbing on this looong wandery pitch. Balancy and mossy towards the top.
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24 |
★★ Country Road
![]()
1
24
27m
2
| 27m | Mount Buffalo | Dom 8.º Abr 2018 | |||||
First pitch was no worries. Second pitch took a bit of figuring out. Did the roof section, but flailed up the wall.
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★★ Country Road
![]() | 27m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Clásico | Lun 26.º Nov 2018 | |||||
Lead p2 as part of the aid fiesta with a plush rack of c4 3*4", 1*4.5, 1*5, 1*6 practiced lower out, re-aid and steep hugging for the second. Good route to practice steep/traverse clean aid. Not sure which numpty put in the bolts at the top. The lower out tat on the belay is probably overdue for a change over (or maybe quicklink?).
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24 |
★★ Ring a Ding Ding
![]() | 25m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 2.º Feb 2016 | |||||
24 |
★★ Parallax
![]() | 10m | Mount Buffalo | Dom 17.º En 2016 | |||||
24 |
★★ Post Lament
![]() | 15m | Mount Buffalo | Dom 21.º Feb 2016 | |||||
Topped it cause the bolts looked a bit dodgy
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24 |
★★ Ring a Ding Ding
![]() | 25m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Clásico | Vie 31.º Dic 2021 | ||||
took a few goes
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24 |
★★ Defender Of The Faith Direct Variant
![]() | 40m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 14.º Feb 2022 | ||||
This is an excellent pitch of climbing.
It was brushed feb 2022 |
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24 |
★★ Gaia
![]() | 75m, 10 | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 2.º Nov 2022 | ||||
Did first ascent of this back in Dec '89. More recently added a direct start and retro-bolted and straightened the top and added rap/belay anchors. Now much better!
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24 |
★★ Statute Of Limitations
![]() | 50m, 5 | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 2.º Nov 2022 | ||||
24 |
Send Out For More Pizza
![]() | 85m | Mount Buffalo | Medio | Mié 2.º Nov 2022 | ||||
23 M1 | |||||||||
23 23 M1 |
The Fifth Column
![]() | 160m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
23 | |||||||||
23 |
Commander Dildo
![]() | 50m, 5 | Mount Buffalo | Medio | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | ||||
Hard, exciting finish. Hangers don't fit on bolts properly, take wires to clip
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23 |
★★ Interstellar Boredom
![]() | 38m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Buena | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | ||||
Can't really remember this one...must have been ok at least!
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23 |
★★ Agrippa
![]() | 64m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
23 |
Pooky
![]() | 25m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
seconded Ant 1982
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23 |
★★★ The Dreaming
![]() | 90m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
23 |
★★ The Establishment Dyke Finish
![]() | 120m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
23 |
★★ Agrippa
![]() | 64m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
23 |
★★ Jocey And The Pussy Cats
![]() | 18m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
23 |
★ Glitterati
![]() | 20m, 4 | Mount Buffalo | 1998 | |||||
23 |
★★★ Redbacks
![]() | 25m | Mount Buffalo | 1998 | |||||
23 |
★★★ The Dreaming P2
![]()
2
| 90m | Mount Buffalo | Sáb 14.º Feb 2004 | |||||
★★★ Defender Of The Faith
![]() | 190m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Clásico | Lun 25.º Nov 2013 | |||||
Aided over two days. First grade V. An adventure!
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★★★ Defender Of The Faith
![]() | 190m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 26.º Nov 2013 | |||||
First time aid climbing and actually the first time weighting trad gear! Lead the 2nd half of pitch two and freed the final two pitches. An excellent 2 day affair!
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20 M5 |
★★★ Defender Of The Faith
![]() | 190m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Clásico | Lun 25.º Nov 2013 | ||||
Grade V Goodness. So epic, so amazing.
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23 |
★★ The Establishment Dyke Finish
![]() | 120m | Mount Buffalo | Sáb 21.º Feb 2015 | |||||
Second top pitch from above the bulge at 21ish.
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23 |
★★ Bum Steer
![]() | 60m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 1.º Mar 2016 | |||||
23 |
★★ The Establishment Dyke Finish
![]() | 120m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 1.º Mar 2016 | |||||
★★★ Defender Of The Faith
![]() | 190m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 6.º Feb 2018 | ||||||
Needs 'some' gardening
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★★★ Defender Of The Faith
![]() | 190m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 10.º Nov 2018 | |||||
Lead P1, P2 on sat. Slept on portaledge. Lead P3 Sunday. Then bailed up our fixed line to the top due to our slowness.
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23 |
★★ Agrippa
![]() | 64m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Clásico | Lun 7.º Oct 2019 | ||||
A really great route, has it all. If the dyno start doesn't look like your flavor then tension traverse across to the crack as the rest of the route is incredible. Alternatively, climb Caligula (corner to the left) up to the slab then transfer across right into the easier crack to enjoy the seam on pitch two, but you'd be cheating yourself.
Sustained jamming and thin seam traversing, well protected with thin gear. A good gauge if your thinking of doing hard rain as the difficulty is comparable.
Note: The picture draws the traverse on pitch two a little low, its after that tree from memory, but its pretty hard to miss the seam. |
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23 |
★★ Muscle Beach
![]() | 45m, 9 | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 29.º Dic 2021 | ||||
Hard slab, very slick and small rock
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23 |
★★★ The Dreaming
![]() | 90m | Mount Buffalo | Jue 30.º Dic 2021 | |||||
23 |
★★ Dr Worm
![]() | 70m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Clásico | Sáb 8.º En 2022 | ||||
23 |
★★★ Redbacks
![]() | 25m | Mount Buffalo | Lun 31.º Oct 2022 | |||||
23 |
★★ Wall To Wall
![]() | 50m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 2.º Nov 2022 | ||||
23 |
Dizzy Limits
![]() | 40m | Mount Buffalo | Jue 3.º Nov 2022 | |||||
Needs a bolt belay (in case the leader slips off, bounces off the little belay ledge and drags the belayer to their doom. Also needs a brush because of understandably infrequent ascents!
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22 M6 | |||||||||
22 22 M6 |
★★ Lord Gumtree
![]() | 320m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
Alt Jeremy. 2 days 1978
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22 |
★★ Lord Gumtree
![]() | 320m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
22 M6 |
★★ Lord Gumtree
![]()
1
M2
escalada de primero por
Me
2
M3
escalada de primero por
Me
3
M4
escalada de primero por
me
| 320m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 18.º Feb 2014 | ||||
Awesome route for first time aid excursion. The third pitch was heavily vegetated and crazy and I enjoyed every second. We retreated due to my dehydration/cramping and approaching thunderstorm...
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22 M6 |
★★ Lord Gumtree
![]()
1
2
| 320m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Clásico | Ag 2019 | ||||
22 M1 | |||||||||
22 22 M1 |
★★★ Hard Rain
![]() | 120m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Megaclásica | Sáb 1.º Mar 2003 | ||||
Awesome, super exposed, hard, clean, classic and long
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22 22 M1 |
★★★ Hard Rain
![]() | 120m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Megaclásica | 2000 | ||||
Brilliant. Took the gravy train after leading first pitch behind Mr Luck. Awesome route
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★★★ Hard Rain
![]() | 120m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | ||||||
★★★ Hard Rain
![]() | 120m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 5.º Feb 2001 | |||||
22 22 M1 |
★★★ Hard Rain
![]() | 120m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
Alt leads with Mark M. 1980
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22 M1 22 M1 |
★★★ Hard Rain
![]() | 120m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 1.º Mar 2016 | |||||
22 M0 22 M1 |
★★★ Hard Rain
![]() | 120m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Megaclásica | Lun 7.º Oct 2019 | ||||
This route is the best multipitch I've done in Australia. If you like trad climbing then look no further, quality moves from top to bottom through clean granite flake systems with jamming, slabbing, laybacking and everything inbetween. Done as three pitches (link 3,4) its also a pretty casual day out for how epic the line/position is. It's listed as an aid climb here but its just a simple transfer between crack systems across the first belay.
Wanted to give a bit of info as the guide can be a little tricky: To see the route from above: go to the climbers lookout (the rocky lookout on your left looking out from bents lookout) then look for the crack system that curves up directly under bents lookout. Abseil access: To the right of bents lookout (looking out) there is a gumtree between you and the next lookout, sling this and fix a 70m rope there then slab across under bents lookout (climbers right) to three shiny ringbolts on the other side of the slab. Clove hitch the rope to one (or more) of these bolts so your partner can come across on a fixed line then rap down the redirected single line from the bolts. You'll get to the bolted hanging belay at the end of pitch one. Leave the fixed line and rap from these bolts with your climbing rope to the start of pitch one leaving the anchor in place. Once you finish the climb, you can use the fixed line to get back across the slab to the gumtree and froth on the day you've just had! Really can't stress how good this route is, holy moly. |
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22 M1 22 M1 |
★★★ Hard Rain
![]() | 120m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Megaclásica | Dom 27.º En 2019 | ||||
6 #2 cams for P1.
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22 M1 22 M1 |
★★★ Hard Rain
![]() | 120m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Megaclásica | Mié 8.º Dic 2021 | ||||
22 M1 22 M1 |
★★★ Hard Rain
![]() | 120m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 22.º Feb 2022 | |||||
22 M0 | |||||||||
22 22 M0 |
Madame La Guillotine
![]() | 15m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
LED at 22M0 1979 with M.M.
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22 | |||||||||
22 |
★★ Lift Girls Lament
![]() | 10m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | ||||
Hard, very hard on feet and hards, must know how to butterfly...gear is perfect though
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22 |
★★ Glace
![]() | 35m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
22 |
★★ Black Road
![]() | 45m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
22 |
Suffragette City
![]() | 60m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
LED with Ant 1980
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22 |
★ Smear Tactics
![]() | 15m, 1 | Mount Buffalo | ★ Buena | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | ||||
excellent route, bloody hard near top
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22 |
★ Lumberjack
![]() | 25m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
22 |
★ Susan's Slab
![]() | 18m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
22 |
★ Iron Maiden
![]() | 25m, 3 | Mount Buffalo | Medio | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | ||||
hard, runout
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22 |
★★★ Monarch
![]() | 75m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
22 |
★★ High Time
![]() | 92m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
alt leads with Mark M. 1979
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22 |
★★ They Dance Alone
![]() | 20m, 6 | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Muy buena | Jue 1.º Mayo 2008 | ||||
22 |
A Change Of Heart
![]() | 15m, 5 | Mount Buffalo | Medio | Lun 20.º Feb 2012 | ||||
Nice start off deck but final moves traversing right to last FH seem an unnecessary line and makes more sense to head straight up right of arete
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22 |
In For A Swim Direct
![]() | 130m | Mount Buffalo | Lun 4.º Mar 2013 | |||||
22 |
★ Needlepoint For Beginners
![]() | 15m, 2 | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 10.º Feb 2015 | ||||
22 |
★★ Sunrunner
![]() | 18m | Mount Buffalo | Jue 3.º Dic 2015 | |||||
22 |
★★ Lift Girls Lament
![]() | 10m | Mount Buffalo | Mar 1.º Mar 2016 | |||||
22 |
★★ Lift Girls Lament
![]() | 10m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 7.º Mar 2016 | ||||
22 |
★ Smear Tactics
![]() | 15m, 1 | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Clásico | Mié 16.º Mar 2016 | ||||
Slab climbing is wonderful!
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22 |
★ Smear Tactics
![]() | 15m, 1 | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 9.º Feb 2019 | ||||
22 |
★★ Lift Girls Lament
![]() | 10m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 13.º Feb 2019 | ||||
22 |
★ Smear Tactics
![]() | 15m, 1 | Mount Buffalo | Jue 1.º En 2015 | |||||
22 |
★★ Black Road
![]() | 45m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 27.º Nov 2018 | ||||
double set of cams
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22 |
★ Smear Tactics
![]() | 15m, 1 | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Muy buena | Vie 19.º Nov 2021 | ||||
21 22 |
Cresta Crack
![]() | 15m | Mount Buffalo | Medio | Vie 19.º Nov 2021 | ||||
Very short.
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22 |
★★★ Monarch
![]() | 75m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Megaclásica | Jue 30.º Dic 2021 | ||||
first pitch only. second is pro-less chimney, will rap in to try.
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22 |
★ Magnum
![]() | 50m, 2 | Mount Buffalo | ★ Buena | Mié 2.º Nov 2022 | ||||
Crux pitch only (as part of first ascent of Eureka Uprising)
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22 |
Seclusion
![]() | 30m | Mount Buffalo | Medio | Jue 3.º Nov 2022 | ||||
First Ascent in '89
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21 to 23 | |||||||||
21 21 to 23 |
★★ Injustice
![]() | 15m, 4 | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Megaclásica | 1995 | ||||
Wicked moves between huge jugs, well protected, but take a sling for the exit to ease your mind
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21 21 to 23 |
★★ Injustice
![]() | 15m, 4 | Mount Buffalo | Sáb 5.º Abr 2014 | |||||
23 |
★★ Injustice
![]() | 15m, 4 | Mount Buffalo | Mar 10.º Feb 2015 | |||||
21 |
★★ Injustice
![]() | 15m, 4 | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 3.º En 2015 | ||||
21 21 to 23 |
★★ Injustice
![]() | 15m, 4 | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Clásico | Vie 12.º Feb 2016 | ||||
Undercling at the crux broke on my onsight attempt. Continued the climb and crux move is still possibly, just slightly harder.
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