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Vías en North Face

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  • Condición
  • Tipo de roca
  • Estilo
  • Descenso
  • Inclinación
  • Vegetación
  • Orientación
  • Acceso al agua
  • Ángulo aproximación
  • Tiempo aproximación
  • Legalidad
  • Tiempo
Ordenado por: Edición en bloque (máx. 100)

Mostrando los 20 vías.

Grado Vía Estilo de equipamiento Popularidad Zona
17 Absent Friends
1 17 45m
2 11 35m
3 12 15m
4 16 25m

Starts where the western track meets the rock on the vague north-eastern corner of the South Sentinel.

  1. Up from initialled corner to large scoop and gear. Move R out of scoop and continue up the crack. Move L past 1 FH to a small horn and another FH. Gain the corner crack and follow the ledges to vegetated belay ledge and chains.

  2. Up and L from the belay through vegetation to gain the large detached rib. Pass optional rivet on the main wall (requires 1 bracket) and follow rib to ledge with prominent crack. Up to gain large ledge with tree.

  3. Up steep scooped wall to sloping ledge and traverse L to single FH (back up with gear).

  4. Obvious crack above belay then easy corner to summit.

PAL: Mark Gommers & Nathan Walmsley (alt leads) 16/02/2003. 1st pitch FFA Mark Gommers, 2003

Clásica mixta 120m, 4, 2 Frederick Peak
20 Three Lost Monkeys
1 13 12m
2 19 25m
3 20 27m
4 15 12m

One of the mega classic multi-pitches at Frederick Peak bolted by the three monkeys themselves.

  1. 12m 13 Trend right on 'Gringo Nomad' slab to the right of the orange streak.

  2. 25m 19 Technical & fingery crack into corner.

  3. 27m 20 Up the arête then traverse 3m right to anchor on uber cave ledge.

  4. 12m 15 Up jugs and then left around steep arête.

Deportiva 76m, 4, 12 Frederick Peak
15 The Noob Express
1 13 28m
2 15 28m
  1. (28m 13) 10m R of AF. Up black slab on U bolts to fun finish and ledge.

  2. (28m 15) Up past 2 U bolts to corner. Traverse R over slab to steep headwall. Up this to natural belay. Escape as for PB.

PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2013

Clásica mixta 56m, 2, 14 Frederick Peak
15 Pitch Black
1 13 35m
2 15 12m
3 15 37m
4 3 30m
5 9 45m
6 14 43m

About 8m R of Absent Friends is a low blocky ledge and a not-so-obvious weakness. An excellent climb with great rock and exposure, a little run-out with tricky gear in places. Escape is possible from chains at the end of pitch 2 & 4.

  1. 13 35m Follow weakness on good rock until you reach a ledge with a single FH.

  2. 15 12m Trend up right to below large death block – don't touch it! Place gear and begin the exposed juggy traverse around arête to small ledge and chains.

  3. 15 37m Go up from belay, trend left below overlap and follow left facing ramp for a few metres until a small ledge with loose blocks above. Head out right past a tricky crux section on sketchy gear and pull through a final steep section to reach a large sloping ledge and cave (DBB).

  4. 3 30m Scramble up left under cave and up loose gully or the wall on your right. Continue until you reach a chain belay and large tree directly above previous belay. Escape is possible here via chains.

  5. 9 45m Continue through steep section and small V groove (little gear) to reach a ledge. Or alternatively start left at the featured corner. Continue up well featured rock to belay ledge below final headwall.

  6. 14 43m Trend up and slightly right through the steep section before moving R past 1m high horn. Now move up heavily featured section to summit.

PAL: Rik Wittkopp, Mark Gommers (alt) & Chris Noon, 2003

Clásica mixta 200m, 6, 1 Frederick Peak
19 Sabbra Cadabra

Great climbing starting on the first three bolts of TLM pitch 1. Straight up the slab through immaculate orange rock trending right on ledge. Step out left from the sanctuary corner for exposed finish at FEOS anchor. Lower off these anchors or continue to p2 anchor of TLM.

PA: Chris Beric, Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 2012

Deportiva 35m, 12 Frederick Peak
19 Flash Fry

Far RH line off the ledge. Sustained jug haul on overhung orange rock.

PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury/Chris Beric, 2013

Deportiva 12m, 8 Frederick Peak
21 Rationality

Straight up from NE belay. Enjoyable climbing on pocketed orange rock. Traverse slightly L at end to jug.

PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2013

Deportiva 15m, 10 Frederick Peak
18 Absent Friends VF #1

Starting 5m L of the of AF pitch 4. Pass 4 FHs up the pocketed wall to reach crack at top. Natural Belay.

PA: Nathan Bolton / Mark Gommers

Clásica mixta 20m, 4 Frederick Peak
19 On Its Own

Starts 10m uphill of AF at a white streak. Head straight up for 5m to first pro in horizontal break, then head right and up onto slab. Follow slab back left and up past FH (crux). Now climb up and right to the belay chains of AF.

PA: Nathan Bolton / Mark Gommers, 2005

Clásica mixta 50m, 1 Frederick Peak
8 Link #1

Start at the first belay of AF, follow the obvious crack on the right to ledge and continue up, traversing right to join up with pitch 4 of Pitch Black.

PA: Mark Gommers, 2003

Clásica 42m Frederick Peak
18 Pitch Black pitch 4 Direct

Follows the steep crack directly above to chains.

PAL: Mark Gommers & Andrew Rule, 2004

Clásica 10m Frederick Peak
22 Frayed Ends of Sanity

Climb up past the first 4 bolts of SC then traverse left 2m. Move straight up through the diagonal rooflet rails.

PA: Gareth Llewellin & Chris Beric, 2012

Deportiva 30m, 11 Frederick Peak
18 Black Gold

The direct start to PB. Starts 15m R of the original start. Up the black slab to ledge and up steep blocky corner on thin gear. Pull over onto easier ground and follow the RH facing corner to a short headwall to PB 2nd pitch belay chains.

PAL: Chris Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 2012

Clásica 40m Frederick Peak
8 Link #2

Starts from the large ledge on Pitch Black (the end of the 4th pitch). Up the short steep section a few metres left of pitch 5 of PB then follow ledges left until you reach the ledge with tree in the middle of the third pitch of Absent Friends.

PAL: Steve Ioannou & Chris Glastonbury, 2006

Clásica 40m Frederick Peak
13 Pitch Black Variant Finish

Set the belay further L of the original below two obvious corners. Up the R corner and onto ledge then trend R and easily up to top.

PAL: Mark Gommers, 2004

Clásica 40m Frederick Peak
22 Bicentennial

Head L up ramp to corner. Up and over buldge (awkward) to interesting crimpy finish.

PAL: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2013

Deportiva 17m, 10 Frederick Peak
22 Prince of Darkness

VF to SC. Instead of trending R to corner/arete, blast straight up through brilliant steep orange rock to finish at FEOS anchor.

PAL: Steve Ioannou, Chris Glastonbury & Chris Beric, 2013

Deportiva 30m, 15 Frederick Peak
16 Absent Friends Original Start

Starts about 8m R of AF at a vague grey line. Up the ramp (loose blocks on the L) and continue up for about 20m. Then up R of an orange scoop and traverse L above to reach orange rock and corner. Up corner to vegetated belay ledge and chains.

PAL: Mark Gommers, Jason Mudge & Chris Noon, 2003

Clásica 48m Frederick Peak
14 Finger of God

Starts 8m R of the cave. Climb up short corner to slabby buttress.

PAL: Mark Gommers 2003? & Mark Gommers, 2003

Clásica 25m Frederick Peak
14 Absent Friends Original Finish

Starts about 3m R of the cave. Follow L facing corner weakness to summit area.

PAL: Mark Gommers, Andrew Rule & Nathan Walmsley, 2003

Clásica 25m Frederick Peak

Mostrando los 20 vías.

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