Ascensiones en 南京 teniendo Beta

难点处连续做两个大肩背动作太消耗体力…依旧是最后一个难点无法控制

爬了一把 分了个步。有点吃身高臂展，我170的臂展 好几个地方 跨度对我来说就已经比较极限了 要是臂展长一点会轻松很多。臂展再短个几厘米的爬起来就更吃力了。

很不错的大屋檐，我的第一条13

王清华老师说右侧的岩壁不开放。这是条单步难点的线，单步动作我的体感差不多V5，有点吃臂展，但是动作非常有趣，我相信还能开发出更多有趣的beta，有机会我会再回去试试。

顶绳搞过一次，有阳朔白山的感觉，难度均匀，超级无敌爽的一条耐力线，当你登顶那一刻，你会被当前的美景所震撼，当然也包括三十多米的高度带来的极限暴露感，伴随着下降，你会有种劫后重生的感叹

超级好线，从起步开始到结束，全程小仰角。2个难点，中间可以泥巴休息。

伤病复出后2月，红点冰山。绝对经典的好线。

和盼兮5.11D公用起步，一个V4的抱石。接着是一个正身上左脚高脚的一个动作，估计V3+。再接着一个侧身交叉手的指力动作，也是V3+。后面就简单一点，但没有力，也不好完成。

和盼兮5.11D公用起步，一个V4的抱石。接着是一个正身上左脚高脚的一个动作，估计V3+。再接着一个侧身交叉手的指力动作，也是V3+。后面就简单一点，但没有力，也不好完成。

绝对耐力线，3个难点过完，一个右手、3个手指头的大洞点，死活控不住。今天热完身，第一把还是有力，终于红点。

1放挂2红线

非常好线路！爬到前5把挂的位置用时据说用时1小时40分！下面扎手上面滑，nice

好线。略软。没约到保护猿，小遗憾。

仰角，单步难点，需要一些大力量。

Thanks to LuoYe for crux beta. Happy to climb the boulder crux smoothly! However, between final bolt and anchor I was drawn in by a good hold, and compelled to messily climb the left face. A few moves were fairly left of the final bolt, close to the next route - but in reflection looking at the line, I feel OK with this. With no clipping hold for the anchor I reached the literal top of the mountain, where the white limestone crown is weathered slippery smooth. The anchor was right beside me at knee height, but so difficult and sketchy to clip! On the way down I tried the obvious alternative finish, and found it much easier. Go figure!

很棒的石头

动作对身高臂展有点要求，重要是核心强，大发力。

起步没分掉，用阿黑的动作，挂右脚后，无法出右手交叉手

起步没分掉，用阿黑的动作，挂右脚后，无法出右手交叉手

起步没分掉，用阿黑的动作，挂右脚后，无法出右手交叉手

起步没分掉，用阿黑的动作，挂右脚后，无法出右手交叉手

起步没分掉，用阿黑的动作，挂右脚后，无法出右手交叉手

起步十分漂亮的V4动作，仰角，左脚左手手脚同点，左手插进缝，向右拧重心，右手大发力，左手连续发力2-3次 抓住后，左脚上高脚，身体横过来，右手交叉手，抓住大点。接着一列向右上缝，没任何难度。

顺其自然

顺其自然

顺其自然

第二次爬，依然没有分掉。难点

Came tragically close to onsighting on my mediocre initial beta. Good friction, but sharp on the knuckles.

Sharp friction and good climbing on a unique quartz/conglomerate mix. Fingery holds on this one. Managed to successfully problem solve whilst in motion, and pull off an onsight while hanging my gear.

I completely misread this route, and failed my onsight attempt almost as soon as my feet left the ground! Ironically enough, optimal beta turned out to be very straightforward. The smoothest of the three 5.11d on this wall.

被掰掉一块石头，出现一个左手反提大点，难度降低一大截，建议难度11b。

Nice boulder problem followed by an easier second part

Very technical boulder problem with various solution options

抱石风格 注意 可能有一个好手点要爆了

尝试用high bouldering风格。 Solo了一下这条线路并没有完攀

Requiring fine balance and focus, this short route is very technical, crimpy, and sequential. Couldn’t have sent it had I not been working it with a much stronger partner, who gave me all the beta. Ascending the left side should be ~5.11c.

非常经典的一条线，完成它的时候，旁边树上的柿子已经熟了，很甜

动作丰富，值得去打卡。

没有用中间的反提裂缝，走了右边上再切到左边，期间用了个交叉手去抓左边的两个小点到大把手，抓到也没有脱脚，挺不错的，期待下次的先锋尝试

Good route with a few fingery cruxes. On my first go I broke two holds. Good moves, bouldery

找到了矮个子beta，尊不戳！

Jamming helped me with this route. The cracks are sharp, so a bit of pain is obligatory. Single crux for the grade, possibly soft?

很棒

借的璞神的鞋子完成了这条线