Mostrando los 36 ascensiones.
Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Zona | Calidad | Escalador | Fecha | |||
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9+/10- | |||||||||
9+/10- ~10- | ★★★ Tanz der Arroganz - con Simmo, Stephen Varney | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 3.º Abr 2023 | |||||
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9 | |||||||||
9 | ★★ Fit for fun | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Muy buena | Jue 9.º Mayo 2002 | ||||
7c+ 9 | ★★★ Herkules | 6 | Frankenjura Nord | Jue 3.º Jul 2008 | |||||
9 | ★★★ Herkules | 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Megaclásica | Vie 17.º Mayo 2019 | ||||
9 | ★★★ Rauchende Bolts - con Daniel | 20m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Sáb 9.º Oct 2021 | |||||
Decided to rest at the third bolt to figure out the moves. Found a solution that involves deadpointing into a small two-finger pocket. Hit and miss. Maybe there's a static solution? Nice runout to the top. Marvellous climb.
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9 | ★★★ Rauchende Bolts - con Daniel | 20m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Sáb 9.º Oct 2021 | |||||
Missed the two-finger pocket, fell, and directly lowered to the ground to try again.
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9 | ★★★ Rauchende Bolts - con Daniel | 20m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Sáb 9.º Oct 2021 | |||||
Stuck the two-finger pocket, got to the last bolt, but then ran out of power a few moves before it gets easier again. Definitely one to come back for.
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9 | ★★★ Herkules | 6 | Frankenjura Nord | Lun 14.º Mar 2022 | |||||
9 | ★★★ Herkules - con Simmo | 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Megaclásica | Jue 23.º Mar 2023 | ||||
Mega mega mega roof pocket jugging through space. None of the moves gave me too much grief, and this could even be achievable while on this trip... but at the moment, its just too damn wet. Come on sun, do your stuff!
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9 ~9+ | ★★★ Rauchende Bolts - con Simmo, Stephen Varney | 20m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Clásico | Lun 3.º Abr 2023 | ||||
4 laps. Didn't have the time to try and send this bold puppy on lead, but was hoping to manage the clean top rope. Alas, no dice... managed to get it down to two halves, but this late in the trip, I didnt have the endurance to put it together.
After leaving the slab and campusing the rail, it's all on to the top, with some of the raddest pocket moves I did this trip. 1-pad mono steep cranking... awwww yeah! |
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9 | ★★★ Herkules — 2 intentos - con Klara R | 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Megaclásica | Sáb 10.º Jun 2023 | ||||
One try in the morning and one in the evening when there was not too much sun. Extremely overhanging with some (smaller) jumps for me. Only did it with three breaks in the evening - but I will come back and try it when it is cooler.
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9 Duro | ★★★ Herkules — 2 intentos | 6 | Frankenjura Nord | Sáb 25.º Abr 2009 | |||||
1x ausbouldern, 1 Go
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9- | |||||||||
9- | ★★ Roter Baron - con mantra | 17m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 20.º Mayo 2020 | ||||
Took a dive when I chose the wrong hold in the crux. Wanted to correct my grip position, which only made it worse. Then I almost fell off again while trying to get the draw into the next bolt (the only expansion bolt); the bolt is a bit too far on the left to be able to clip it nicely from the jug after the crux … it's okay with two draws.
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9- | ★★ Roter Baron | 17m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | Lun 14.º Mar 2022 | |||||
9- | ★★ Roter Baron - con Simmo | 17m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Muy buena | Jue 23.º Mar 2023 | ||||
Only time for the one shot. The entire crux headwall was heaps of pockety fun, but there was still half a move I didn't get sorted. Keen to come back, though.
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9- | ★★ Bückling - con Simmo, Stephen Varney | 16m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 3.º Abr 2023 | ||||
A monster roof crack... despite it obviously being wet, I had to check it out. Made it about half way before I got tired of the green-slime handjams, and backjumped. Seemed like thr sort of thing I'd love in the dry. A few big cams qere helpful.
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9- | ★★ Bückling - con David X | 16m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Vie 21.º Abr 2023 | |||||
Soaking wet in many places, so I didn't go for a real onsight attempt, but I wouldn't have expected to get very far anyway. Bailed at the last bolt (that is, about halfway up or so), but I tasted blood. Feels much more manageable than "Luftballondach".
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8+ | |||||||||
8 8+ | ★★★ Abendspaziergang - con mantra | 18m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 20.º Mayo 2020 | ||||
Wanted to do "Monis Blackout" after the "warmup", to come down a bit. Accidentally started up this one, which is much harder. Had to sit in the rope at the second crux, where you basically have to know where the holds are to climb it for this grade.
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8 | |||||||||
8 | ★★★ Direkter Göttner Gedenkweg - con Christoph Rauch | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Sáb 9.º Oct 2021 | |||||
Great route! It's mostly an endurance challenge, and I didn't have enough time left (or juice, for that matter) for a second try today. I clipsticked the first bolt, which felt like the right choice.
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8 | ★★★ Direkter Göttner Gedenkweg - con Markus Benning | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Muy buena | Dom 9.º En 2022 | ||||
8 | ★★★ Direkter Göttner Gedenkweg - con Matthias Felix | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Dom 30.º Abr 2023 | |||||
Went much worse than last time... the end of the first crack was slimy wet, and having to put in the draws makes clipping considerably harder further up.
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8 Duro | ★★★ Direkter Göttner Gedenkweg | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Mié 17.º Mayo 2023 | |||||
8 | ★★★ Direkter Göttner Gedenkweg - con Fabian Michel | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Clásico | Lun 12.º Jun 2023 | ||||
Toprope gemacht weil 8 für mich als Aufwärmtour zu hart ist . Sehr schön, keine Einzelstelle sondern Ausdauer. Nach der Verschneidung mit rechts in eine gute pocket mit rechts gehen (nicht die Griffe links Im riss benutzen an denen bin ich gefallen). Bei nächstem trip nochmal Im Lead machen!
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8 | ★★★ Direkter Göttner Gedenkweg | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Mié 26.º Jul 2023 | |||||
8 | ★★★ Direkter Göttner Gedenkweg | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Lun 31.º Jul 2023 | |||||
8 | ★★★ Direkter Göttner Gedenkweg | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Vie 1.º Mayo 2009 | |||||
OS-Versuch hat nicht geklappt
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8 | ★★★ Direkter Göttner Gedenkweg - con Christoph Franz | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Vie 17.º Mayo 2024 | |||||
8 | ★★★ Direkter Göttner Gedenkweg | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Muy buena | Dom 30.º Jun 2024 | ||||
8- | |||||||||
8- | ★★ Gottner Gedenkweg original | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | Vie 2.º Jun 2000 | |||||
8- | ★ Tabula Rasa - con Christoph Rauch | 15m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 9.º Oct 2021 | ||||
Couldn't figure out the finish, then I noticed the undercling.
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8- | ★ Tabula Rasa | 15m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Lun 5.º Sep 2022 | |||||
8- | ★★ La Meuf - con mantra | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Muy buena | Dom 30.º Abr 2023 | |||||
Took the wrong leap of faith after the second bolt. Sent the rest just fine. Surprisingly good, not too hard.
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8- | ★★ La Meuf | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 30.º Abr 2024 | |||||
7 | |||||||||
7 | ★ Monis Blackout - con mantra | 18m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Muy buena | Dom 30.º Abr 2023 | ||||
The first 3 meters are horrible (had to give my fingers a quick break here). The rest is pretty nice! Challenging runout, though... I almost fell from the very top.
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7 | ★ Monis Blackout — 2 intentos - con Christoph Reinhardt | 18m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | Lun 20.º Mayo 2024 | |||||
6+ | |||||||||
6+ | ★★ Kreuzzug - con Martin S | 17m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Clásico | Lun 30.º Dic 2019 |
Mostrando los 36 ascensiones.
I never managed a single move in the mid-height crux, despite lots of effort and numerous different sequences. Id love to hear from someone who has done it since the crimper broke off?
I was surprised how much glue was holding this classic together (read: tubes and tubes and tubes of it)... makes me feel better about Blue Mountains route development.