Vías en Around Nairobi

Surprisingly fun, to the left of Nightcrawler. Sit-start on the lowest handholds; hard first couple of moves to get stood up, then easy up to the top.

Far right of the boulder. Sit start with you right hand on the rail and left hand on an undercling jug. Powerful moves up to a crimp and then the overhanging rail, before topping out on the same finish as Laura.

Far right of the boulder. Sit start at the bottom of the obvious rail, and move up and right using a combo of powerful moves and heel hook trickery. Mantle up and over onto the slab, and walk up to finish.

Sit-start on the far left of the boulder, get established on good hand-holds and traverse on these to top out on the small boulder on the right.

Start on obvious horizontal to the right of Dump Truck. Navigate right to a big move and an easy top out.

Sit-start at the furthest right and lower point of the big diagonal cracks. Work your way up this leftwards to get establish on good holds when the cracks end. From here either dyno to the top or use a poor intermediate crimp and bump up. Top out from there.

Sit-start low to the right of the arete, go up on crimps and big left-hand gaston staying right of arete to the top.

Named after two women who keep the route opener on his toes. To the left of a small tree is a thin crack that trends leftwards, finishing left and up of the last bolt (anchor hidden behind a small ledge over the overhang. A steep route that has a sting in its tail.

This excellent route goes up the steep pillar just left of 'Naked Edge'. Hard moves up past bolt. Continue up to horizontal crack, then up red wall past bolt to crux moves through overhang.

Historic route number: 69

Start left of 'Unlawful Entry', below a crack at about 20'. Climb face past two bolts and a tricky finger lock to the base of a crack. Up the crack to its natural end. Step left and up to top.

Historic route number: 41b

An excellent sport climb. Start at the steep boss of rock between 'Trader Horn' and 'Aquarius'. Climb directly up past 3 bolts to the overhang. Surmount this direct past a 4th bolt and on to finish.

Historic route number: 38

This climb is at the left end of the crag and starts 4m left of Journey Into Space. It is found by locating the prominent grey-coloured flake/jug some 6m up the wall. Easily up 3m to plant-covered ledge. Move left along this until directly below the previously mentioned flake/jug. (It is worth belaying on this plant ledge to protect leader on the first hard moves). Up with difficulty and pull up overhang to reach the prominent jug. Up this leftwards to horizontal crack. Climb up to a good hold and step rightwards across steep wall (crux). Delicate moves rightwards lead to a fairly dynamic move up and across to obvious hole on wall on right. Strenuous move straight up to easier ground and top. The climb is much harder than it appears from the ground. From the first moves off ledge it is unrelenting until the finishing hard move 15m up. Keep a #7 wire ready for the crux.

The obvious crack below and leading to the large block at the end of the traverse on Eagle’s Nest Crack. Aid from one peg on the traverse into the crack low down.

A line consisting of beautiful moves until the usual Egyptian easy finish. Start up the first bolt of DIY/Ulf Carlsson Memorial Climb, and instead of going right, go straight up, to the small pockets above, up towards the larger/pocket/jug before moving to the crack on the left and exiting the hard climbing.

Gear is thin and thoughtful but there throughout the climb if you look for it. first ascent was headpointed.

Probably Lukenia's best. It makes its way up the left side of the left-hand of the two main overhangs, surmounts this then strings together four or five mind-inspiring moves across the wall above. You can look for difficulties in the first pitch but it is easier to simply take 'The Keep' as far as the first belay. A long pitch follows. Move rightwards to the obvious quartz-hole on 'The Keep', then right a few moves and up past a bolt to easier ground below the left-hand overhang. The remainder of the climb is the crux and includes pulling over the overhang past a bolt on the left, up a move, then traverse 5m rightwards across the steep wall above the overhang. Easily to belay.

The obvious square corner on the left of the face has now been climbed free. Not as good as it looks. Hard start up corner leads to very difficult bridging at 9m. A mantleshelf enables easier climbing to be reached 6m below top.

Start below the blunt arete. Climb this and then surmount roof by an area of white rock.

Worth the effort. The pro exists but the final 9m is guaranteed to make the boys shiver in their megas. Take a #0 RP along and save it for after the overhang. Start on left side of cliff beneath obvious flake/crack. Up flake, step left, up slightly then rnantle shelf to good ledge. Move right to orange wall and bolt. Up awkwardly leftwards to ledge below groove. Ignore this and step right to another ledge. The trick is to now reach the steep slab which lies above over the overhang. This is best done by delicately stepping up, then gingerly making a long step leftwards to a srnall sloping ledge on lip of overhang below a thin vertical crack. Climb this (crux) and continue carefully to top.

Where are you now Jet Morgan? (Journey Into Space is a BBC Radio science fiction programme written by BBC producer ...... by Tacconi. The 1957 annual included a short story called Jet Morgan and the Space Castaway, written by Chilton and illustrated by Cornwell). This is a gem of a climb, with great variety of moves and superb positions. At the left end of cliff there is an overhang with a diagonal break through it. The route is directly in front of the driver at the point where the road up to Lukenia meets the road which goes along the base of the cliffs. Start below overhang where there is a flake on the ground. Climb 6m to where a rising crack goes up leftwards through the overhang. Hand-traverse up crack, and pull up through lip of overhang onto steep wall. Delicate traverse rightwards (crux), along ledges on lip of overhang, until easier ground is reached 2m right of peg. Climb wall to top bearing slightly leftwards. Bolt pro after the hand traverse.

A hard mixed route - don't believe the old guide which calls this a "genuine sport climb"! Take some small nuts and cams as well as quickdraws for the three bolts. Start left of the root coming down from Eagle's Nest Crack and climb the crack in the front of the boulder past a bulge to the platform below Epitaph. Move right onto wall and climb direct past three bolts. At the third bolt step left (crux), then continue direct to top.

Climb the unprotected face between Death of Disco and Sweet Fanny Adams for 5 meters on small edges, before getting to a good horizontal rail and pocket which can take gear. Powerful moves left and up across a flake to get established at a broken crack system, and then up the face on easy holds.

Start to the left of the Ulf Carlsson Memorial Plaque, following a curved line of 3 bolts. Get established on small crimps at the start and traverse right with bad feet to the second bolt. Power straight up past the third bolt, then traverse delicately right across a blank face to get established on a pillar. From here join the top section of Pharaoh's Wall and keep an eye out for hornets!

The ultimate finger-tingler! Start 3m right of Bandana, Climb thin crack to obvious "pigeon-hole" at 4m. Move up bulge above on good holds, then two hard moves lead out rightwards across wall and up to easier ground.

A journey to remember! The first pitch is the same as Drowning In The Shallow End, rising easily for 25m to the right-hand and slightly higher nettle tree. Climb 6m to distinct grey ledge. Move up slightly rightwards to bulging dark wall where there is excellent pro in a horizontal slot. Climb holds on right where a tricky move reaches easier ground. Move left to obvious crack and easily up to final overhang and bolt. 1m left of bolt there are holds, so grab the current and use these directly through overhang (crux) to finish.

The much harder direct start to As Good as it Gets. Crimpy, cruxy moves straight up until you join up with the easier ground of the top half of As Good as it Gets.

This route ascends the obvious tramline cracks about 30 m left of The Devil Drives. The left crack is wider and is capped by a triangular block.

1. 27 m. Move up to the foot of cracks and into right hand crack when possible. Up this for 12 m until a move left can be made into the wider crack. Up this to belay on block on left (peg belay).

2. 27 m. Step right to thin crack and up to roof. Move right under roof (1 aid peg), then lower off nut to gain obvious crack low down on the steep right wall. Up crack (1 aid nut), then step left to corner (1 aid peg), and sloping ledge. Up onto large ledge above and belay. Freed by H Barber - Step right to thin crack and continue traversing right to niche below headwall.

3. 28 m. Move up then traverse left around corner and descend slightly to ramp. Follow this to steeper wall which is climbed to broken ground. Scramble off right. Seriousness: 5

The route follows the obvious crack from the ground to its end for 55 metres.

From the top of the crack a pitch of easy, unprotected slab climbing leads to the summit.

This is a sustained and serious climb (not just for the lead climber) and caution should be taken with loose rock.

Protection: there are two bolts on the second pitch, but the main protection is with natural gear. At least one 6.5 cam or similar should be carried to avoid extreme run-outs.

This is the bulging crack to the right of 'Incubus'. The route starts at the base of a water-polished thin crack. Make some superb moves up the wall to the bulge. Over this (crux) and brutally onwards.

Historic route number: 85

Some good climbing but the route is a little forced. To the right of 'Deception' is an arete, and around the corner is an obvious steep groove. Start directly below groove. Climb up to top of boulder. Make a move up groove then step right to sloping foot hold. Climb wall just right of groove (ignore 'Incubus' bolt up on right) until a good obvious jug can be reached higher up groove. Using this jug as a hand-hold step left across wall to reach crack on bulge. Move over bulge direct (crux), to groove. Up this then step left when the wall steepens. Continue up leftwards to the top.

Historic route number: 83

To the right of the previous route is a wall with a thin crack working slightly rightwards up it. Start below this from the top of a large boulder. Strenuous easy moves off the boulder lead to easier climbing and a ledge below a bulging wall. Follow crack up wall (crux), until a step right can be made to easier ground. Very good protection.

Historic route number: 76

The prominent steep crack/chimney line on wall right of 'Naked Edge'. Move up easily for 20' then wide step left to main crackline. Climb to overhang and surmount this into main wide crack. Climb this directly to top. A great, well protected traditional route with no bolts.

Historic route number: 70b

This fine route climbs what is probably Frog's biggest cliff. Take six quick-draws. lt is the face of the buttress right of 'Caving'. Start by ascending the rounded boulder at the base of the chimney. Make a wild move right below the first bolt to gain the detached flake. Up this, then the wall above past a second bolt to the start of obvious crack. Ignore this and step left, continuing leftwards up the wall past four bolts to the top.

Historic route number: 66

A good sustained climb. Take five quick-draws. To the right of 'Dead Man Walking' there is a large obvious grey fig tree. Start behind this. Climb the easy crack for 10' and at a point 4' below the bush-stump step awkwardly left onto the steep face. Climb past bolt and up to a second bolt. Move up and step left to better holds. Take wall above directly over two bolts to easier ground which leads to short steep bulge. Finish directly above bolt.

Historic route number: 62b

A route with many positions - all hard. It climbs the prominent steep corner some 50' left of 'Freebie'. Start directly below corner and climb pleasantly to start of main groove. Climb this (crux), past 2 bolts to steep, wide crack. Follow this direct to top.

Historic route number: 40b

Steeper than it looks. Start in the corner about 40' right of 'Aquarius', where there is a steep corner crack. Climb this to bulge (bolt on right). Surmount this (crux), then step left into crack which is followed to the top.

Historic route number: 40

Start about four metres left of 'Trader Horn' at a short crack. Up this then climb on increasingly steep ground past two bolts. After second bolt step left to slanting crack (crux). Find good protection in crack then continue up on small holds past two more bolts.

Historic route number: 36a

Start 15' right of 'Broken Arrow' where there is a groove below a prominent tree with grey roots. [21] for the first 15' only. Difficult moves up past two bolts lead to groove. Follow this up leftwards to vertical tree roots. Climb these with difficulty into tree. Ascend the crack above to the top.

Historic route number: 12

This is the obvious natural line which ascends the centre of the buttress. [21] for the first 15' only. Ascend the thin righiwards sloping crackline past two bolts to a groove. Climb this awkwardly and make a difficult step left onto a ledge. Move up short bulging wall to tree stump. and follow cracks above leftwards to another bulging wall which is climbed. Traverse left around corner then up rightwards to top.

Historic route number: 6

Start with both hands on the wide pillar which juts out from the left side of the wide face of the boulder. Climb straight up on progressively thinner holds. Commit to the delicate top out over the bulge or you'll look more ridiculous than Boris Johnson stuck on a zip wire.

Straight up the middle of the boulder on crimps.

Problem on the far left of the boulder when looking at it. Powerful slightly overhanging start with left edge and good right crimps, feet high to grab jug at top, straight up to finish.

Take the ridge around from Do it First direct. Heel hooks on the ridge, then good holds up. The mantle finish is a bit scary but there's a good jug to finish on the right.

Up the featured rock on the right of the boulder. High but good holds and feet all the way.

Same finish as for Sura Yako, but starts crouched on the right and works left.

Start, low, up to the triangular hold on the face, then up to the right to a good diagonal crimp. Can be done the fun way with a big dyno, or the lame static way with wide feet. Up good holds to the left to finish.

Stand-start on the best two holds at the far left of the boulder. One big foot move, one big hand move, and you're in a second crack above and topping out.

Start low on the right side of the boulder, up and over the bulge.

Stand-start. Up the arete on the left, getting feet high to top out whil avoiding the huge jugs on your right.

Up the middle of the boulder. Sit-start with hands in the horizontal crack about halfway up. Straight up through tensiony, crimpy moves. Short but fun problem, requiring a good sequence to climb it well.

A traverse from left to right. Sit-start matched on the obvious low crimp in the middle of the boulder. Work your way across to the right side of the slopers before either mantling up from the slopers or continuing to the start crimp of Kisu and mantling from there.

Starting at the big obvious crimp on the right of the boulder, traverse left on the sloping ledge, avoiding the exit jugs above, all the way to the sidepull start to Kijiko on the left. Feel free to exit earlier for an easier problem.

More fun than it looks. Start matched low on a great sidepull/undercling and work your way up slopers and a ledge to the topout.

Sit-start on decent holds on the rail, then move up and left to top out. Short and sort of sweet. Named after a lonely little egg sitting on the top for the FA.

The sit-start to Rainbow Road. Start with both hands on the low jug, follow the crack up and right.

Sit-start in the middle of the backside of the boulder, with hands on two quite low slopey holds in the black streak. Bump up to better holds, get a foot above the bulge and rock up. Nice exercise in sit-starts!

Start matched on the right hand hold used for Zambarau, but go right of the arete via a big first move.

Stand-start on crimps in the middle of the boulder, with left and right in two slightly offset holds about halfway up the boulder. Straight up.

Line going up the furthest right part of this big boulder. Stand-start with left hand on a decent square knob, right hand on a diagonal side-pull and foot on a big sloping ledge. Tension up using an intermediate to the crack, get your feet up and easier to top.

Start on the obvious jug rail at the center bottom of the boulder and go straight up, and most importantly... have fun!

To the right of Shark Bite. Sit-start matched on the low jugs and move up to a good hold above. To top out move slightly left and get feet high to flop over.

Start matched on rail at end of Shark's mouth. Proceed straight up the gills.

On the other side of the boulder from May the V4 be with you. Sit-start and up the obvious holds on the face.

The blocky finish to rock slide, straight up from a stand-start. Cheeky handjam at the top for those into that kind of thing.

Goes up just left of the arete on the right of the boulder (a hard line is awaiting an FA just right of this arete). Slightly harder moves to start, with a delicate but solid topout at long as you keep calm.

Goes up slightly to the left of the middle of the boulder on decent if small holds. Use your feet and stay calm, the topout is good.

To the right of Anakuja! Again, stand-start with hands on decent crimps, get your feet up and finish.

To the right of Kiboko on decent crimps. Stand-start and get your feet up!

Problem furthest left, using the big undercling. Stand-start, get your feet up and easier at the top.

On the right of the boulder. Stand-start on decent crimps, move hands and feet up through a slightly sequency section to reach better holds above for the heady topout.

Stand-start up to a big blocky hold. Up past this on crimps, keep your head for the high, slabby finish.

With your left hand on the same right-hand start hold as Little Knife, and right hand on a good crimp further right. Again get your feet high and pull and palm to get etsablished on both feet and finish with an easy topout.

To the right of the hollow flake, stand-start with hand on decent holds. Get your feet high and reach up to a good hold. Easy topout.

To the right of Spring, not using the hollow, creaking flake to your right. Up and over the boulder at its highest point on delicate hands and feet.

Up the middle of the boulder to a good undercling. Get your feet up from here and reach for a slightly heady topout.

Problem on the left of the boulder. Sit-start on the lowest crimp and work your way up using a little flake and footwork.

Up the high boulder just to the left of Hug the Boulder. Landing is not great as it has fallen away.

Highball. Start as for Leonardo, but then move right to exit through the right side of the overhang, without using the arete for hands or feet.

Sit-start below and left of the big rail. Make you way straight up on good crimps, delicately on the flake.

Up the middle of the face towards the upper slope. Sit-start between two smaller rocks under the boulder, on decent crimps. Keep going up between decent edges to the top straight up. Aimu are the spirits of ancestors of the Kamba people.

Sit-start using same crimps as for Hatch crimp, but go left and up instead of right and up. Boulder below is off.

Stand-start just right of Togepi, with left hand in the right hand start hold for Togepi and right in another sidepull. Get feet up then stand up to the lip.

Stand-start with right hand on the obvious block in the centre of the boulder (where your left hand is for Right hand squeeze), and left as low as possible on the arete to the left. Go up and left to a good sidepull jug and top out above. Harder if under 1.70 m.

Sit-start on obvious low crack. Straight up on good crimps.

Stand-start with both hands on the lip of the boulder on the far right. Traverse left along the lip on decent holds and heel hooks and top out at the highest point of the boulder, where there is a prominent chicken head. Landing gets worse as you go, so pad and spot carefully.

Lovely tall climb. Stand-start with hands matched in lowest obvious hold. Go straight up, using the right side of the arete if needed but staying left of the crack and boulder on the right.

Face left for salty, and right for sweet. Stand-start for both with hands on the lower boulder.

Sit-down start to the right of Straight Up on the little jug past the arrete. Go left round the arete and up the crack.

Sit-start to the left o the crack, on crimps. Get up to better holds in the crack and up this to a good topout.

Stand-start just to the right of a small tree. Go up and slightly right to a topout on good holds.

On the perched bnoulder itself. Get in the cave and dig. Stand-start matched on the good blocky hold on the outside of the cave, facing Mombasa Road. From there chimney up to holds which enable you to come out of the cave and onto jugs on the face.

Not the most inspiring name but a fun boulder. Good to have a spotter as the landing is a bit slanted. On the first part of the perched boulder you approach from the left-side scramble up to the top. Sit-start matched on a blocky hold, then sort out feet to reach a cool tufa-like hold out left. Straight up from there.

Just left of Sit-Start Pull Cross. Sit-start matched on a small rounded crimp (right and up from a more crumbly hold), with feet low. Slightly powerful first move up and right to a good sloping hold, then straight up through interesting moves.

Highball up the face on the lower boulder below Go-Go Gadget Arms, etc., on the side facing Mombasa Road, in between two fig trees. Stand-start on the holds you can reach. Work through some deceptively tricky moves to reach better holds above and top out on jugs, making sure each one is solid before pulling.

To the right of Moja Maker, up the face. Stand-stat with hands matched in a good diagonal crack but with poor feet. Find your way up the face on more decent holds and more poor feet before reaching jugs for both.

Up the left-hand arete, bailing left before the overhanging top.

Pumpy traverse on the juggy handholds going above the cave, with a slightly tricky finish.

Sit-start on the arete to the left of the crack, with right hand on the arete and left low on the face. Compress up the arete to good holds at the top, maybe with a sneaky toe-hook?

Nice. Don't use the boulders on right and on left. #bad_dropzone #juggy

Stand-start with left hand just around the arete and right hand on the arete. Pull a couple spicy moves and then your top out of choice.

Stand-start on the arete and the hollow flake, established off the slanting rock below. Straight up the arete from there - good to have a few pads and a spotter as the landing is not great.

#crimpy #juggy