Ascensiones de Overture teniendo Beta

workin moves

Dries quick after rain. Scary falls until well past right ledge.

Just working moves.

Sussed beta

very fun climb with an interesting traverse

Finally clean it after so many try.

Passed the crux to the side pull but it was wet...

Venturing on my grades of back in the day. Had a hard time figuring out the crux though.

Finally find a way to reach the side pull and pass the crux. Should be able to clean it next time.

Pretty unclear what holds are in or not on the right. Should be possible direct but seems harder than 24

Edit: Having looked at videos of other people climbing the route, I feel like the currently accepted line is just an eliminate variation on Heads and Tails?

I would prefer this to be a direct line up the face (e.g. the sidepull on the right arete level with the second bolt being out, which all ascents I've seen are using). The climb becomes more difficult, possibly by multiple grades, but I'm sure it goes...and then becomes a clear distinct line.

Climb up to second bolt only

Wanted to jump on this for a while. Got to second bolt clean then worked out the moves.

What a good route. Technical moves on small but good holds leads to a brilliant top sequence. #2ndgo

Put the gear up, extended the 3rd draw so it can be clipped twice. Reminded myself of the moves.

Cheapest possible send. Started from top of block and had the first two bolts pre-clipped because I thought I was still working the moves but then just did it easily. The conditions were perfect. Perhaps a bit soft for the grade.

Cannot pass the first bolt

First attempt. Just aided my way up to get the draws on and feel the holds and moves.

Second attempt. Made a good burn to a couple of moves below the end of the boulder problem but still struggling with feet placement and whether to go left through the shattered crimps or right hugging the arete.

Third attempt. Felt weaker after crimping so much the first couple of times. I will probably extend the third draw significantly to avoid having to think about the run-out, especially if I stick with the right-hand arete beta, which climbs above a big block of rock.

Nice line! Prominent, hard from 1st to 3rd bolt, then cruisey to top. Thought I was going to get it 2nd go but my headgame dicked me over (surprise, surprise) and then not much pull power after that (achey forearms from density hangs yesterday... yeah, silly me)

Unsend. Some holds have broken off and are now smaller compared to when the FA was done. Upgrade to 24 probably justified now.

Fun sequence, a bit tricky without beta.

Shame the small holds are fragile , i can see this one going through a few different iterations . Some holds were broken today and it looks like the left undercling at the start is about to go . It felt like a 24 today but i could imagine there might be a 23 sequence somewhere

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Not a 23!

23 you say...... Pretty sandbagged compared to the other 23s everywhere 😂

Powerful, bouldery crux on crimps and sloppers between 3rd and 4th bolts. #2ndGo

This was a real battle

FA