Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Popularidad | Zona | |||||||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Unknown | |||||||||||||||||||
7- | Pitch link | Salten | |||||||||||||||||
6 | Pinka | Salten | |||||||||||||||||
4 | ★★ Sjøsvaet, Å | 120m | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
2 | ★★ Normalveien
Scramble trough big boulders to reach the summit. | Ofoten | |||||||||||||||||
6 | Down Wash | Salten | |||||||||||||||||
6 | Black magic | Salten | |||||||||||||||||
6 | Blueberry Boy | Salten | |||||||||||||||||
6 | Konkaven | Salten | |||||||||||||||||
Åpent prosjekt | Salten | ||||||||||||||||||
6- | Ukultiverte kroppslyder | Salten | |||||||||||||||||
FR:7c | Projekt | Lofoten | |||||||||||||||||
Traverse | |||||||||||||||||||
The descent
Follow path (East) with some exposed scrambling off back of Presten, and down to saddle (68.1800305, 14.2286126). Continue straight up the other side of the saddle, following the ridegline roughly South before joining main hiking track near Festvåg summit (allow 1-2 hours). | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||||
3 | The descent
Both of the guidebook options are not advisable. Instead, head in the direction of Vågakallen via a faint trial from the summit block (pictured), when this ends, a short move to regain the ridge is needed (pictured). Ignore the first rapp station you pass. Continue along the ridge then scramble back down (pictured). From here, traverse across the hanging valley (South-East, ~50m) to the base of a short & steep gully. Go up here. This leads to a wide open area. Don't be tempted to descend any gullies. Head straight up the first large grassy gully towards the ridge line (North). Continue along this ridge for another 150/200m (towards Vågakallen) where the ridge from Pillaren ends & the rapp station is located (pictured). Slings, 10m. You can nearly taste the beers at Klatre now. Continue in the direction of Vågakallen via a short ascent back up the opposing ridgeline. From this summit, a clear trial appears which leads down to grassy slopes & the Vågakallen hiking trail. Yay. PA: Some Jedi | Lofoten | |||||||||||||||||
Trad | |||||||||||||||||||
7- | Epilepsifri sone
| Salten | |||||||||||||||||
7+ | Ukjent 3
| Lofoten | |||||||||||||||||
6+ AID:A2 | ★ Sweet Home Moravia | 7 | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
6+ | Dama Dablam | Lofoten | |||||||||||||||||
7 | ★★★ Running for Teo
Quality climbing linking direct crack systems up the center of the cliff. The N7 moves on P4 can be avoided at A0 (escape also possible via fishermans friend at n6-). Note the guidebook topo, as is tradition, is wrong. P4 takes the crack line, not the unprotected face
View this post on Instagram PA: Philip C & Vegard With Stennes, 1 Oct 2019 | 130m, 5 | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
6- | Børtind vestvegg
1
4
2
4+
3
6-
4
4
PA: Kjell Eugen Andersen, Erik Vike & Jan Christian Andersen, 1981 | 350m, 4 | Salten | ||||||||||||||||
5+ | Z-bolten | 50m | Salten | ||||||||||||||||
6 | ★★ Fenn-Geisser
1
6
2
5+
3
6-
4
4+
5
3
6
5+
7
6-
8
6
9
6-
10
5
11
5
12
5+
13
5-
14
6-
15
3
| 15 | Ofoten | ||||||||||||||||
6- | Gyldne flak
| 100m, 2 | Salten | ||||||||||||||||
5 | Kyllingrisset
| 35m | Salten | ||||||||||||||||
3 | The Approach Pitch
| 70m | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
6 | ★ Pianogolvet
1
6
2
6-
PA: Fredrik Rapp & Bobo Gustavsson, 2009 | Lofoten | |||||||||||||||||
6- AID:A1 | ★ Stora Diederet
| 14m | Ofoten | ||||||||||||||||
6 | Diederet | Salten | |||||||||||||||||
4 | ★ Storsvaet | 30m | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
5+ | ★★ Fish Restaurant
1
5+
2
4
3
5
4
5
5
5-
6
5-
7
4
8
4+
9
4+
PA: Jiří Švihálek & Lukáš Marecek, 2009 | 9 | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
7 | For Cod's Sake
1
7
15m
2
7-
25m
3
6
35m
| 75m, 3 | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
6 | Malabarsk | Lofoten | |||||||||||||||||
5+ | ★ Sol til 22 | 2 | Salten | ||||||||||||||||
8- | Belgisk Sjokolade | 4 | Salten | ||||||||||||||||
5- | ★ På kanten | Salten | |||||||||||||||||
7+ | Joker Nord
1
3
40m
2
5
60m
3
4+
30m
4
6-
50m
5
6+
60m
6
6+
40m
7
6-
20m
8
7-
45m
9
5+
40m
10
6+
40m
11
7+
50m
12
4
45m
13
6-
30m
| 550m, 13 | Salten | ||||||||||||||||
6 | Troll i mose
| 20m | Salten | ||||||||||||||||
5- | Østveggen
PA: Torben Hee & Erik Stoltenberg Hansson, 1970 | 4 | Ofoten | ||||||||||||||||
5 | ★ Queen of Rock 'n' Roll
| Lofoten | |||||||||||||||||
7+ | Första approximationen
1
5
10m
2
6
30m
3
7+
20m
4
3+
70m
PA: Joakim Söderström & Jonas Wiklund, 2010 | 130m, 4 | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
6+ | ★★★ Vestveggen
1
4
60m
2
6
55m
3
6-
55m
4
4
15m
5
6
15m
6
6+
50m
7
4
55m
8
5
45m
It´s a further 300m of mellow ridge scrambling to access Vestveggen. The P1 OW is a very obvious marker. Some images here: View this post on Instagram PA: Anders Lundhal & Eva Selin, 1980 | 350m, 8 | Ofoten | ||||||||||||||||
7 | Revungen
1
6
45m
2
7
20m
3
6
40m
PA: Asgeir Larsen & Thorbjørn Enevold, 2007 | 110m, 3 | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
4 | Knott og godt
The difficulty of the climbing is primarily grade 3+/4-, but with some shorter sections of grade 4. The route starts up an obvious finger crack splitting the slabs at the base of face. Traverse left after the finger crack and continue up the left of the two obvious dihedrals on the upper part of the face. Apart from some poorly protected slabs the route is well-protected and with little vegetation. Low-angled slabs, cracks and dihedrals leads up to the shoulder and the descent route. PA: Jo Espen Rønningen & Stian Bruvoll, 15 Jul 2019 | 6 | Ofoten | ||||||||||||||||
4 | Fredagsdrømmer
| Salten | |||||||||||||||||
6 | ★★ Tut´s dieder
| 80m, 2 | Salten | ||||||||||||||||
7- | ★ Fisherman's Friend
1
5+
30m
2
7-
20m
3
6-
15m
4
6-
30m
5
5+
25m
PA: Jonas Dahlstrop & Mattias Strömqvist | 120m, 5 | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
6 | ★ Frøken Sverige
| 14m | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
5 | Lost in Paradise | Lofoten | |||||||||||||||||
8- | Tørronken
| 40m | Salten | ||||||||||||||||
6+ | Ukjent 4
| Lofoten | |||||||||||||||||
7 | ★★ A Wee Nip
1
7
2
6+
3
5+
| 65m, 3 | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
6 | Cello Torre | Lofoten | |||||||||||||||||
6- | ★★ Hun hater meg, det liker jeg!
Head up the finger crack on the arete then jam & stem in the dihedral to the summit PA: Philip C & Vegard With Stennes, 2 Oct 2019 | 35m | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
6- | Route 22
Mixed route | Ofoten | |||||||||||||||||
6 | Tenestevegen
PA: Øyvind Skogstad & Sveinung Bertnes Råheim, 2010 | 3 | Salten | ||||||||||||||||
5+ | ★ Gjøkeredet | 90m | Salten | ||||||||||||||||
6- | ★ Kugelsprickan
| 17 | Ofoten | ||||||||||||||||
5 | Kajakkmannen
| 100m, 3 | Salten | ||||||||||||||||
7- | Skilpadderisset
| 90m, 3 | Salten | ||||||||||||||||
6+ AID:A1 | Swedish Highway Blues
| Lofoten | |||||||||||||||||
8- | ★★★ Castle Dracula
1
8-
35m
2
7+
30m
PA: David Pickford & Malin Holmberg, 2011 | 65m, 2 | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
6+ | ★★ Blodrod Septembernatt | 600m, 16 | Ofoten | ||||||||||||||||
6 | ★★★ Gandalf and Rose
A straight line using 2 classic routes. Start this combination climbing the 1st pitch on Gandalf. Thereafter, climb the 2nd and 3rd pitch of Guns and Roses. | 100m, 3 | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
5+ | ★★★ Djupfjord Buttress
PA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Lutta Fagerli, 1995 | 7 | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
8- | Hot Fisk, Jumping Weasel
1
8-
40m
2
8-
45m
| 85m, 2 | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
Apoyar a theCrag no sólo beneficiará a tu Karma
También te permitirá acceder a unos beneficios increíbles en theCrag y más allá. | |||||||||||||||||||
6 | Sterk storm | Lofoten | |||||||||||||||||
5- | Kjøkkenveien | 3 | Salten | ||||||||||||||||
7- | ★★★ Jediriddarane kjem attende
1
6-
30m
2
6
30m
3
7-
50m
4
6
45m
5
5
50m
6
3
80m
Topo here: Some images here- View this post on Instagram PA: Tommy Skeide & Olve Havåg, 1997 | 290m, 6 | Salten | ||||||||||||||||
4+ | ★ Vest til Aust Travers | Salten | |||||||||||||||||
6+ | Balanseruta
| Salten | |||||||||||||||||
5 | Vestveggen
PA: Per Eidsvig & Einar Dalsegg, 1972 | 6 | Ofoten | ||||||||||||||||
6- | Moody Blue
| Lofoten | |||||||||||||||||
7 AID:A2 | Sweet dreams then beautiful nightmares
PA: Jiri Švihálek & Ondra Švihálek, 2012 | 480m, 13 | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
6 | ★★★ Vesteggen
1
6
55m
2
3
55m
3
3
15m
4
6-
50m
5
5
60m
6
3
20m
The striking West ridge is the obvious path to the summit from Vestveggen. The route starts below the obvious wide crack, which was first climbed in 1937 (& an amazing achievement for the era).
Some images here View this post on Instagram PA: Arne Næss & Boss Walther, 1937 PAL: Anders Lundhal & Eva Selin, 1980 | 260m, 6 | Ofoten | ||||||||||||||||
5- | ★ Steppgubbens dotter
Mixed route on the left side of the slab | 30m | Ofoten | ||||||||||||||||
6 | Sendetoget NSB
PA: Håkon Wegge & Anna Nystedt, Jun 2019 | 13 | Ofoten | ||||||||||||||||
7-/7 | Chained All Round
PA: Rick McGregor, 2011 | Ofoten | |||||||||||||||||
6- | Kjærleikens kamin
| Salten | |||||||||||||||||
7- | Blåklokkeren
| Salten | |||||||||||||||||
6 | ★★ Johan Boyer
1
5+
40m
2
6
35m
PA: Thorbjørn Enevold, Morten & Trond Solberg, 1992 | 75m, 2 | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
7 | ★ Du gamla du fria
| 14m | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
5+ | Kyllingvingen | Lofoten | |||||||||||||||||
3 | ★ Kaminen
| Salten | |||||||||||||||||
6- | Extension taulengde
The extension of Skjønnheten og oljehyret takes the chimney system to the top | 50m | Salten | ||||||||||||||||
6 | ★★ Återstilleren
1
6
2
6
3
4+
4
6
5
5+
6
5
7
5+
PA: Martin Jakobsson & krister jonsson, 1999 | 300m, 7 | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
4+ | Ptarmigan Slabs | Lofoten | |||||||||||||||||
7- | Trango towel | Lofoten | |||||||||||||||||
5 | ★ Jeg håper Scottys hus brenner ned
From the arete, follow the left trending crack until it ends. Traverse around the arete into excellent jamming in a corner then follow easy angled slab to the summit. PA: Vegard With Stennes & Philip C, 2 Oct 2019 | 35m | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
6 | Route 23
Mixed route | Ofoten | |||||||||||||||||
4 | Vestryggen | 6 | Salten | ||||||||||||||||
6- | ★ Og bakom synger skogene | 90m, 2 | Salten | ||||||||||||||||
5+ AIDC:C1 | Pinackelpillaren
| 16 | Ofoten | ||||||||||||||||
6- | Sigurd-risset
| 100m, 3 | Salten | ||||||||||||||||
7- | ★★ Sjukebilen
| 180m, 4 | Salten | ||||||||||||||||
6- | ★★★ Fingerrisset
PA: helge stokstad & Rune Thrap-Meyer, 1982 | 50m | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
5 | ★ Ångermanland
Big cam handy PA: Rick McGregor, 2015 | Lofoten | |||||||||||||||||
6- | ★ Livet Lever
| 16 | Ofoten | ||||||||||||||||
7 | ★★★ Skyvandraren
1
7
2
6-
3
7-
4
6-
5
5+
6
5
Starts up the obvious handcrack on the arête right of Jeddiriddarane kjem attende. Excellent well protected climbing (the guidebook grades are slightly off). Topo here: Some images here- View this post on Instagram PA: Sara Thommessen & Henrik Burvang, 15 Jul 2016 | 6 | Salten | ||||||||||||||||
6 | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen
1
6
40m
2
6
30m
3
5
25m
PA: Håvard Nesheim & Sjur Nesheim, 1979 | 95m, 3 | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
6 | ★★ Dr. Jekyll
Mixed slab climbing. Rumour has know one really knows who´s Dr jekyll & who´s Mr Hyde.. PA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Trond Solberg, 1999 | 55m | Lofoten | ||||||||||||||||
7- | Edderkoppen
1
6-
25m
2
7-
25m
| 50m, 2 | Lofoten |