Vías en Nordland

Scramble trough big boulders to reach the summit.

Follow path (East) with some exposed scrambling off back of Presten, and down to saddle (68.1800305, 14.2286126). Continue straight up the other side of the saddle, following the ridegline roughly South before joining main hiking track near Festvåg summit (allow 1-2 hours).

Both of the guidebook options are not advisable.

Instead, head in the direction of Vågakallen via a faint trial from the summit block (pictured), when this ends, a short move to regain the ridge is needed (pictured). Ignore the first rapp station you pass.

Continue along the ridge then scramble back down (pictured). From here, traverse across the hanging valley (South-East, ~50m) to the base of a short & steep gully. Go up here. This leads to a wide open area. Don't be tempted to descend any gullies.

Head straight up the first large grassy gully towards the ridge line (North). Continue along this ridge for another 150/200m (towards Vågakallen) where the ridge from Pillaren ends & the rapp station is located (pictured). Slings, 10m.

You can nearly taste the beers at Klatre now. Continue in the direction of Vågakallen via a short ascent back up the opposing ridgeline. From this summit, a clear trial appears which leads down to grassy slopes & the Vågakallen hiking trail. Yay.

Quality climbing linking direct crack systems up the center of the cliff. The N7 moves on P4 can be avoided at A0 (escape also possible via fishermans friend at n6-). Note the guidebook topo, as is tradition, is wrong. P4 takes the crack line, not the unprotected face

1. As for Johan Boyer. 35m

2. As for Johan Boyer or Vikingjenta. 35m

3. Climb the crack to the right up to the tree below the block. 15m

4. Up the block with the perfect handcrack in a corner. Traverse left, then right again before powering straight up the strenuous overhanging hand crack. Fun!! 25m

5. Follow easy slab and cracks right, left, then right again to the top. 20m

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Topo here:

http://www.ntk.no/topo/belgisk-sjokolade/

1. The route starts near two large blocks and right of the 2 large square roofs in a corner. This pitch trends gently right to a large ledge (stor hylle). Build your belay in the corner to your right.

2. Take the LF groove until it´s possible to traverse right into a RF groove. Traverse right again when the LF corner becomes visible to a belay on a small ledge. Routefinding can be a little tricky. It helps to aim for the roof below the LF dihedral.

3. Head out left & up the parallel cracks.

4. Short pitch to the base of the finger crack.

5. Climb the short but great finger crack to a stance

6. The ´devils dance floor´ pitch traverses out right then up the RF corner to a ledge on your left.

7. Trend gently left via the path of least resistance to a ledge. Walk left & build your belay in the corner below a gently right trending finger crack. Not the best rock on this pitch.

8. Up the finger crack then step left and follow cracks & grooves to the ridge

It´s a further 300m of mellow ridge scrambling to access Vestveggen. The P1 OW is a very obvious marker.

Route description & topo

Some images here:

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1. As for Gamle rev.

2. Variation right out on the arete. Belay on the sloping ledge when you rejoin Gamle rev.

3. As for Gamle rev.

The difficulty of the climbing is primarily grade 3+/4-, but with some shorter sections of grade 4.

The route starts up an obvious finger crack splitting the slabs at the base of face. Traverse left after the finger crack and continue up the left of the two obvious dihedrals on the upper part of the face. Apart from some poorly protected slabs the route is well-protected and with little vegetation.

Low-angled slabs, cracks and dihedrals leads up to the shoulder and the descent route.

Head up the finger crack on the arete then jam & stem in the dihedral to the summit

Mixed route

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A straight line using 2 classic routes. Start this combination climbing the 1st pitch on Gandalf. Thereafter, climb the 2nd and 3rd pitch of Guns and Roses.

Topo here:

http://www.ntk.no/topo/3235/

Some images here-

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The striking West ridge is the obvious path to the summit from Vestveggen. The route starts below the obvious wide crack, which was first climbed in 1937 (& an amazing achievement for the era).

1. Start up the dihedral, when the holds disappear traverse left into the wide & sustained crack. Big cams useful (1x #2, #3 & 4#).

2. and

3. Easier climbing leads to the base of the next steep crack.

4. Climb the finger crack in the middle of the wall, after 15m traverse to some balancey climbing on the arete. The crack in the main corner is harder (N6 for the wide crack, N7- for the thin corner crack).

5. and

6. Easier cracks and corners lead to a rightwards exit through a hole & up to the summit block

Some images here

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Mixed route on the left side of the slab

1. 5 pitches of easy terrain past ledges with a lot of debris.

2. .

3. .

4. .

5. .

6. Follows an obvious RF dihedral for 3 pitches to it´s end.

7. .

8. .

9. The crux 55-meter pitch leads up & right into run-out terrain, where it’s tricky to find the path of least resistance.

10. A short pitch to a good ledge. 10m. A possible bivy site.

11. A sequence that involves changing corners to the right is followed by climbing left to the next stance.

12. Steep but well protected climbing.

13. The angle eases off slightly, starting left then back right & towards the right-hand side of a pillar. A chimney behind the pillar leads to the summit.

The extension of Skjønnheten og oljehyret takes the chimney system to the top

From the arete, follow the left trending crack until it ends. Traverse around the arete into excellent jamming in a corner then follow easy angled slab to the summit.

Mixed route

Big cam handy

Starts up the obvious handcrack on the arête right of Jeddiriddarane kjem attende. Excellent well protected climbing (the guidebook grades are slightly off).

Topo here:

http://www.ntk.no/topo/3235/

Some images here-

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Mixed slab climbing. Rumour has know one really knows who´s Dr jekyll & who´s Mr Hyde..