Ascensiones en Comunidad Valenciana teniendo Beta

L2

A pleasant climb in the shadow. Climbed it with Thorbjörn, where I started the climb.It was my turn to start! The third pitch straight up from the belay is far more difficult than 3, more like a 5 crux. Can be avoided if climbing more to the right. The 4th pitch was the best part of the climb.

Easy and enjoyable

A good introduction to mixed trad climbing, but can be done without a rack if you are very comfortable in the grade (long run outs where falling is not an option, mainly in pitch 6). North facing so in the shade most of the day, ideal on a warm day. The rock is decent in most parts. Pitch 3 and 4 can be combined if you go straight after the second anchor (might be another route but seemed a more logical way to go up)

Climbed together with Catrine. Excellent final pitch with a nice crack. It was quite difficult to find the bolted stance far to the right hidden in a groove.

Traverse in- then steep sea cliff climbing following large crack/weakness with big jugs-then slab (more delicate to finish). Brilliant atmospher

With Neil. P1 - Clean 2nd; P2 - O/S; P3 - Clean 2nd. The short airy waterline traverse on P1 is fun, and the short slab on P3 is enjoyable, but the money is on the steep and runout 35m slopey groove/crack system on P2. Quite sustained (pushing the utter limits of what can be called 6a+) and with plenty of spoohy seaside slopers to remind you of the exposure. Very old school.

Amazing route above the water. Super exposed. First pitch is a bit sketchy with insufficient bolting. 2nd pitch is where the fun starts, slightly overhanging on jugs. Great fun

Buenísima vía. Un poco perdedor el descenso

https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/espagne/costa-blanca/penon-de-ifach-los-lunes-al-sol/

Abbed off after the first pitch of the second half. Did not want to, but have to admit my leading was slow due to negotiating some properly dodgy rock, route-finding (no description other than Steve’s below plus conflicting topos), therefore we were getting fried in the heat. Partner terrified by the tension traverse and never quite recovered. To top it all off, atrocious walk/off – finding the abseil point to the foot of it felt like a miracle.

Full bolted

No trad needed. Sport climbing all the way. 100m rope from sign, 70m from first ring easy to get to.

Definately not a Sport route! Dont expect fixed belays and in general there are only a couple of pitons in place and it may be difficult to find the route. Seemed as if we were the first repeaters for at least some 10 years. Have a look at https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/mascarat-22534/sylphara-21355 for a good route description. We avoided the last couple of pitches of 5 which are extremely chossy (huge loose flakes) by moving on the exit of Flor de Gruta.

LRS Double Revo First ascent from below

Climbed it with Thorbjörn. We where very focused on this climb and made a recognition the day before, half way up to the start of the climb ensuring both the access path and the descent of the mountain.

We started the day at 05.00 with an excellent breakfast made by Benny at Villa Pico, then drove and started walking at 06.30 in the dark. Marvelous sunrise around 7, started climbing in blocks at 07.30. After Thorbjörn's lead of the direct start, I took over and started wrongly up the rappel descent following red arrows up??? After 2 short pitches, I just knew it was wrong due to to harder climb than 4+, Thorbjörn traversed right under a tree/bush back right on to the main climb missing out the original pitches 4-7. Then, I took over leading pitch 8, Thorbjörn passed by and led the short 9 pitch, then I finished my block lead with pitch 10. Thorbjörn continued and finished the climb leading the last 3 pitches. Thereafter, we failed to fully complete the Edward's finish and stopped the climb to the top and started the descent. The entire outing took 9h car2car, the actual climb to the top of Espolôn Central took 4.5h, i.e. we where there around noon. The descent takes time and is very slippery with lots of loose rocks.

Climbed it with Thorbjörn block leading the direct start to the main climb, i.e. Espolôn Central route. Started 07.30 in the morning.

With Neil. P1 - clean 2nd; P2 - O/S. Both pitches are involved, intimidating, runout on manky gal-bolts and HARD. The 50m sea-level traverse is very delicate on spoogy slopers with intricate moves, with a high chance of ending up falling into the sea (and real drama) if you come off on lead or 2nd. The mega-exposed 35m steep arete of P2 pushes your exposure threshold to the limit as you run it out clipping the occasional manky tat and plug in some gear. Very "out there!" Some choss at top of P2.

With Neil. O/s pitches 1-2, 4-5 and 7. Clean 2nd P3 and P6. Linked several pitches into exciting 45m pitches. Quite sandbagged and frustrating route finding with guide descriptions and the new routes in the area, but some exciting old school trad multi nevertheless.

With Neil. Clean.2nd P1 (access pitch) and o/s P2. Bailed from P3 when the rock quality went to hell and we realised we were running out of daylight for the epic abseil descent. P2 was "out there" crazy traversing over insane steepness on loose blocks and flakes with some exciting gear. Exciting in a masochistic kind of way.

Led all pitches. The ascent was an adventure.

Homemade hangers and a very old lower off kinda spoils the fun

Second pitch has the best climbing for this grade that I know. First pitch is interesting especially if it is still wet from the sea Some slings for threads are useful on the first pitch. The second one has plenty of bolts.

Amazing big wall on great rock. Full value at the grade, definitely not a ladder and a cruxy P9. Decent in the dark was a little sketchy.

Espectacular, facil pero te pone en tu sitio despues de tantas horas de ascenso

https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/espagne/costa-blanca/puig-campana-nueva-edicion-et-julia/

In 3 pitches after abbing off Diamante. On first 3 pitches (run them together), slight route-finding issues, but good fun dodging loose blocks and finding my way up. After that, the route becomes very good, with strange rock shapes, fun moves, some exposed bits. Decided to ab not on the face, but to the right through the gulleys. Went quite well considering it was in the dark.

Otra Esther con Esther 😍. Una aventura que te lleva hasta la cima de Penya Maura con unas vistas impresionantes. Llévate algún anillo largo y algún cacharro mediano para proteger la chimenea y a disfrutar.

Be sure to check the route. We ended up in a crag at least 6b... Seems that a lot of people miss up there due to old ropes placed in the wall.

Not as trad. There are bolts on the way.

Vale la pena saltarse R1, R2 son solo 10/12 m. y en una cómoda repisa.

Actually done as sport climb

Tocará volver… las orientaciones de la guía que teníamos son de coña. Sol todo el día y encima con mucho calor! Le dimos un pegue al primer largo porque ya habíamos ido hasta allí, pero para esta vía hay que ir con frío y días nublados si no te quieres achicharrar en la pared.

Spit roto, segundo artificial el tercero, lo superamos con un palo de selfie y mucha dificultad.

retirada en el 4 largo por meteo y falta de horas de sol

La bajada es peor que la subida. Para nada recomiendo esta pared.

Lo dividimos en 6 largos. El 6a+ me ha parecido bastante durete, no se si ya por el cansancio. El resto… mi opinión de grados es… 5+,5+,5,5+,5, 6a+. El L4 por donde he salido tenía un hostion interesante al salir de la R, el resto se protege bastante bien.

Tres primeros largos de la vía muy bonitos. Aún así, la protección en ellos es delicada, en el primero teniendo que jugar con las piezas que colocamos y en el segundo largo donde tienes alejes obligados. La chimenea del tercero da juego a proteger un poco a placer (diría que lo más grande que he utilizado ha sido un 2 para salir a la reunión). El cuarto largo es jugar a los bolos… hay que ir con ojo de no irte con algún bloque para abajo. No es una vía para ir con grado ajustado pues se puede pasar muy mal.

El cuarto largo es de lo mejorcito que he escalado, eso sí, 6b...

Salida por la vía Europa

Variante 5+

Cresta muy bonita, con un paso un poco aereo pero con buenas presas. Conviene llevar friends y/o fisureros. El paso mas aereo si tiene chapas y hay algunas reuniones y cordinos para asegurar durante la cresta. En teoria hay dos rapeles de salida pero solo encontramos uno.