Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Zona | Calidad | Escalador | Fecha | |||
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8b | |||||||||
8b | ★★ Watermark L1 + L2 (Watermark L2) | 40m | Sella | Lun 10.º Abr 2017 | |||||
1st on extension. Stick clip and rope solo to get moves sorted and draws in. All but 1 move done.
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8b | ★★ Watermark L1 + L2 - con olivier | 40m | Sella | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 12.º Abr 2017 | ||||
2nd. Unable to do gaston to slopey crimp crux and above roofless crux. Will try again with a better friction day.
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8b | ★★★ No Soy Un Angelito L2 - con Lucy | 35m | Sella | Mié 3.º Mayo 2017 | |||||
Got all the moves sorted. Power endurance from the 8a chains to the the top. No rest to be had!
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8b | ★★★ No Soy Un Angelito L2 - con Lucy | 35m | Sella | Jue 4.º Mayo 2017 | |||||
FOA- 7c crux.
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8b | ★★★ No Soy Un Angelito L2 - con Lucy | 35m | Sella | Jue 4.º Mayo 2017 | |||||
FOA- RH crimp rail L2. Got it sorted but the LH gaston to follow is work in progress.
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8b | ★★★ No Soy Un Angelito L2 | 35m | Sella | Vie 5.º Mayo 2017 | |||||
F@ RH crimp rail. Found new beta for RF. Locked and loaded. Time to send this thing.
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8b | ★★★ No Soy Un Angelito L2 - con lucy | 35m | Sella | Vie 12.º Mayo 2017 | |||||
Lame. 7c crux causing problems.
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8b | ★★★ No Soy Un Angelito L2 - con lucy | 35m | Sella | Vie 12.º Mayo 2017 | |||||
Why would make the crux all the way up there after so much climbing already
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8b | ★★★ No Soy Un Angelito L2 - con Lucy | 35m | Sella | Mié 24.º Mayo 2017 | |||||
Crimp rail. Felt stronger on the moves afterwards but definitely at my limit and soooo much climbing beforehand.
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8b | ★★★ No Soy Un Angelito L2 - con Lucy | 35m | Sella | Lun 8.º Mayo 2017 | |||||
7c crux. Ver tired
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8b | ★★★ No Soy Un Angelito L2 - con Lucy | 35m | Sella | Lun 8.º Mayo 2017 | |||||
7c crux. Very tired.
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8b | ★★★ No Soy Un Angelito L2 - con Lucy | 35m | Sella | Vie 26.º Mayo 2017 | |||||
Crimp rail. Had a quick and clean ascent to the 8a anchors but still can't recover enough on the link to feel strong through next crux.
NEW BETA feels awesome. Less moves far higher chance of this going now! Psyced!
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8a+ | |||||||||
8a 8a+ | ★★★ Las Clochas De Targa | 30m, 16 | Chulilla | Mar 10.º Feb 2015 | |||||
Very nice climbng up tufa to a desperate technical crux.
Marred by two bad bolt placements which have the draw covering critical holds.
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8a 8a+ | ★★★ Las Clochas De Targa | 30m, 16 | Chulilla | Mar 10.º Feb 2015 | |||||
8a 8a+ | ★★★ Las Clochas De Targa | 30m, 16 | Chulilla | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 14.º Feb 2015 | ||||
Dropped the tufa halfway up.
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8a 8a+ | ★★★ Las Clochas De Targa | 30m, 16 | Chulilla | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 14.º Feb 2015 | ||||
Slipped off the 2nd last hold.
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8a+ | ★★★ La montaña mágica (L1) (La Montaña Mágica) | 36m | Chulilla | ★★★ Clásico | Lun 16.º Feb 2015 | ||||
Recon. I'll be back on this for sure.
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8a 8a+ | ★★★ El capataz incapaz (El Capataz Incapaz R2) - con robbiephillips | 40m | Chulilla | ★★ Muy buena | Jue 26.º Feb 2015 | ||||
Hard, sustained crimping on good edges.
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8a+ | ★★ La Forqueta Del Diablo | 20m, 10 | Sella | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 5.º Dic 2016 | ||||
Have done 2 top rope laps on this. Recovering from bad ankle sprang. No leading yet.
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8a+ | ★★ La Forqueta Del Diablo - con Matt Pascoe | 20m, 10 | Sella | ★★ Muy buena | Jue 23.º Feb 2017 | ||||
Getting the draws in and rememberinget moves. Very greasy today. DP 9c HI 14c
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8a+ | ★★ La Forqueta Del Diablo - con Matt Pascoe | 20m, 10 | Sella | ★★ Muy buena | Jue 23.º Feb 2017 | ||||
Ordinary shot. Retuned beta all over.
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8a+ | ★★ La Forqueta Del Diablo - con Matt Pascoe | 20m, 10 | Sella | ★★ Muy buena | Jue 23.º Feb 2017 | ||||
Still getting sequences sorted. Hard while sliding of holds.
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8a+ | ★★ A Fer La Mar - con lucy | 20m | Garx | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 30.º En 2017 | ||||
Much stronger go this time. Did all the moves stright up on top rope. Hardest move is early on but it just keeps on coming at ya!
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8a+ | ★★ A Fer La Mar - con lucy | 20m | Garx | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 30.º En 2017 | ||||
3rd go. Still working it out.
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8a+ | ★★ A Fer La Mar | 20m | Garx | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 31.º En 2017 | ||||
Stick clipped to plae draws and warm up on it. All moves sorted and felt ok.
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8a+ | ★★ A Fer La Mar | 20m | Garx | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 31.º En 2017 | ||||
4th. 1st shot at sending. HP of the tiny crimp to ledge rest.
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8a+ | ★★ A Fer La Mar - con Lucy | 20m | Garx | ★★ Muy buena | Vie 3.º Feb 2017 | ||||
Putting draws up and re-working.
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8a+ | ★★ A Fer La Mar - con Lucy | 20m | Garx | ★★ Muy buena | Vie 3.º Feb 2017 | ||||
6th. HP of backstep to pinch from the sloper rail. 1 hang. Strong burn.
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8a+ | ★★ A Fer La Mar | 20m | Garx | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 6.º Feb 2017 | ||||
7th. Fell low. Took bat an ball and went home.
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8a+ | ★★ A Fer La Mar | 20m | Garx | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 27.º Feb 2017 | ||||
8th. Same HP of RH pinch. Strong go.
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8a+ | ★★ A Fer La Mar | 20m | Garx | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 27.º Feb 2017 | ||||
9th. Felt more tired but same HP. Not pumped but couldn't hold form in crux.
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8a+ | ★★ A Fer La Mar - con Lucy | 20m | Garx | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 27.º Feb 2017 | ||||
10th. Lost form in crux. New beta. RF on small ledge.
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8a+ | ★★ A Fer La Mar - con Lucy | 20m | Garx | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 27.º Feb 2017 | ||||
11th. New HP by a smidgen. Got pinch but couldn't move. New beta with RF.
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8a+ | ★★ A Fer La Mar - con Lucy | 20m | Garx | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 27.º Feb 2017 | ||||
12th. Fell at first crux. Too tired.
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8a+ | ★★ A Fer La Mar - con Lucy | 20m | Garx | ★★ Muy buena | Vie 17.º Feb 2017 | ||||
13th. Fell at RP crux.
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8a+ | ★★ A Fer La Mar - con Lucy | 20m | Garx | ★★ Muy buena | Vie 17.º Feb 2017 | ||||
14th. Fell at RP crux.
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8a+ | ★★ A Fer La Mar - con Lucy | 20m | Garx | ★★ Muy buena | Vie 17.º Feb 2017 | ||||
15th. Fell at RP crux. New beta to turn LF knee outwards
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8a+ | ★★ A Fer La Mar - con Lucy | 20m | Garx | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 20.º Feb 2017 | ||||
Warmup burn. Caught Rh pinch with 2 fingers. Must rememebr to pull up before reaching for pinch.
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8a+ | ★★ La Forqueta Del Diablo - con Olivier | 20m, 10 | Sella | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 28.º Feb 2017 | ||||
Messed up the crux before the tufa. Re-worked. Struggled with the top. Rock was glassy.
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8a+ | ★★ La Forqueta Del Diablo - con Olivier | 20m, 10 | Sella | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 28.º Feb 2017 | ||||
Same as before.
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7c 8a+ | ★ Palestina | 46m | Pedreguer | Vie 3.º Mar 2017 | |||||
8a+ | ★★ La Forqueta Del Diablo - con Roberto Lopez | 20m, 10 | Sella | ★★ Muy buena | Jue 16.º Mar 2017 | ||||
9th. Highpoint. Fell going to tufa after the rest.
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8a+ | ★★ La Forqueta Del Diablo - con Roberto Lopez | 20m, 10 | Sella | ★★ Muy buena | Jue 16.º Mar 2017 | ||||
10th.Highpoint. Fell at the twin tufas. Beta refined.
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8a+ | ★★ La Forqueta Del Diablo - con Roberto Lopez | 20m, 10 | Sella | ★★ Muy buena | Jue 16.º Mar 2017 | ||||
11th. No more power.
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8a+ | ★★ La Forqueta Del Diablo - con Olivier, Lucy Y Ninos | 20m, 10 | Sella | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 18.º Mar 2017 | ||||
12th. Highpoint. Only one hold left to fall off of. Great burn. Felt strong.
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8a+ | ★★ La Forqueta Del Diablo - con Olivier, Lucy Y Ninos | 20m, 10 | Sella | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 18.º Mar 2017 | ||||
13th. R/F popped off at the first tufa. Pulled on and went to the top. Calling it another highpoint, of a different type.
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8a+ | ★★ La Forqueta Del Diablo - con Roberto Lopez | 20m, 10 | Sella | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 20.º Mar 2017 | ||||
14th. Fell at the last hold again. Re-tuned beta. To use tufa systeem on the right.
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8a+ | ★★★ Tarali Valent - con Matt Pascoe | 25m | Sella | ★ Buena | Jue 1.º Jun 2017 | ||||
I felt significanlty stronger than the last session on this. Got all the moves on the first try BTB.
2nd shot I was out of juice and tired. Time for some rest.
2 shots
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8a+ | ★★★ Tarali Valent - con Lucy | 25m | Sella | Dom 4.º Jun 2017 | |||||
Crappy undercling. Re-worked feet. Much easier moving up now. Dp- 14.5 T- 23.5. The crux crimp has to have the water squeezed out off it.
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8a+ | ★★★ Tarali Valent - con Lucy | 25m | Sella | Dom 4.º Jun 2017 | |||||
Undercling pinch. Highpoint. Played around with the final crux moves and it comes down to the harder you can hold on the less technique you need. But you need to hold on tight to use the technique...
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8a+ | ★★★ Tarali Valent - con Lucy | 25m | Sella | Mar 6.º Jun 2017 | |||||
Undercling crimp. Highpoint. Tweaked beta. Didn't feel rested enough from warm-up. DP:12 T:24
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8a+ | ★★★ Tarali Valent - con Lucy | 25m | Sella | Mar 6.º Jun 2017 | |||||
Crimp crux. Felt strong but was too low once I got the crimp. Pulled on (after a good rest) and went to the anchors. First single hang. It's getting warm here.
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8a+ | ★★★ Tarali Valent - con Lucy | 25m | Sella | Lun 12.º Jun 2017 | |||||
T- 27 DP- 13.5 H- 43.3
Move before pinchy, crimpy undercling thing. Somehow twisted into an egypitian and was then a long from the hold.
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8a+ | ★★★ Tarali Valent - con Lucy | 25m | Sella | Lun 12.º Jun 2017 | |||||
T- 27 DP- 13.5 H- 43.3 or similar.
Struggled with moving legs/feet up high to ramp. Perhaps the running is tightening things up a little?
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8a+ | ★★★ Tarali Valent - con Lucy | 25m | Sella | Mié 14.º Jun 2017 | |||||
T-26.2, H-37.4, DP-10.5
2nd crux high R/H gaston. NB: lower RF. Much easier moving up now. Final crux getting harder as temps keep rising.
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8a+ | ★★★ Tarali Valent - con Lucy | 25m | Sella | Mié 14.º Jun 2017 | |||||
T-28.1, H-35.5, DP-11.4
Final crux. Pinchy crimpy hold. NB: another move before going up for pinchy crimp. Allows for a much needed chalk up and brief shake. Might go next shot or may never get done. Perhaps some cooler weather will/would make a difference. .
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8a+ | ★★★ Tarali Valent - con Lucy | 25m | Sella | Vie 16.º Jun 2017 | |||||
1124 T-27.1, H-53, DP-16.7. Fr. def isn't 'bad' but could be better. Maybe I'm getting use to it. Undercling pinch crimp. Forgot to move R/F up the ramp but still managed to get the UPC. NB: Using same footer from micro rest to get UPC. Rest of sequence remains unchanged.
Is this how everybody's hard redpoints go. Constant refinement? Sorry for the load of irrelavant info. It's for future use.
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8a+ | ★★★ Tarali Valent - con Lucy | 25m | Sella | Vie 16.º Jun 2017 | |||||
1329 T-30.8, H-33.3 DP-12.8. Fr. improved. Crux crimp felt a tad greasy but still usable. Crux crimp. Too stretched once I had the hold. Something to do with the chalking up leaves me low. Rather pedantic really... NB R/F higher up ramp then L/F higher to crimp. End result is the 'glory' sloper (yep it's bad) can be held wih less effort.
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8a+ | ★★★ Tarali Valent - con Lucy | 25m | Sella | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 19.º Jun 2017 | ||||
1138, T-24.1,H-69.0,DP-18.1. Slightly greasy on crux crimp. Didn't affect shot. Losing skin. Low R/F slipped during 3rd crux. NB: Using original high R/F on ramp but using sloper to get height for UPC. Much easier to rest and chalk for a moment before measly crimp.
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8a+ | ★★★ Tarali Valent - con Lucy | 25m | Sella | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 19.º Jun 2017 | ||||
1324, T-25.6,H-70.6,DP-19.9. Acceptably greasy. Highpoint!! Pumped off post crux clipping sloper after clipping draw. May need to skip this clip....
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8a+ | ★★★ Tarali Valent - con Lucy | 25m | Sella | Mié 21.º Jun 2017 | |||||
13:54,T-26.9,H-55.8,DP-17.4. Crux crimp greasy. Pinged off crux crimp. Bumped 3 times to try and get a better grip of it. Also pinged off 2 other holds lower down. Above crux friction was veryordinary. Single biner on crux was ok to clip.
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8a+ | ★★★ Ñapas dead (L1) (Napas death) | 35m | Chulilla | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 24.º Feb 2020 | ||||
Onsighted to the crux at 2/3 height.
Very very crimpy! |
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8a+ | ★★★ La montaña mágica (L1) (La montaña mágica) | 36m | Chulilla | ★★★ Megaclásica | Dom 24.º Nov 2019 | ||||
=== TODO ===
01.04.19: Noooo, so many tries and so close to send! Last try fell at the last quickdraw just before the good left hold, due to a wet right crimp (two days of rain). At least I did some pretty nice falls. Sad not to have send it, but truly amazing line. I will be back!! 24.11.19: Unfortunately due to external events, could only try on the 3rd day of climbing with freezing condition. Tired and frozen, only 1 try. Still managed to pass the 2 cruxes and fell before the last undercling |
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8a+ | ★★★ La buena | 40m, 17 | Chulilla | ★★★ Megaclásica | Vie 22.º Nov 2019 | ||||
Really cool. first half is really powerful without rests. The left tufa at the crux is very fragile.. hopefully it will survive.. 2nd half is easier, but pure endurance. Will have to invest a bit more time on it next time
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8a+ | ★★★ La buena | 40m, 17 | Chulilla | ★★★ Megaclásica | Vie 22.º Nov 2019 | ||||
8a+ | ★★★ Nueve Z (Nueve Zeta) | 30m | Chulilla | ★★★ Clásico | Vie 21.º En 2022 | ||||
7c 8a+ | ★★★ La buena (La Buena R1) | 40m, 17 | Chulilla | ★ Buena | Mié 2.º Feb 2022 | ||||
7c 8a+ | ★★★ La buena (La Buena R1) | 40m, 17 | Chulilla | ★ Buena | Jue 3.º Feb 2022 | ||||
7c 8a+ | ★★★ La buena (La Buena R1) | 40m, 17 | Chulilla | ★ Buena | Mié 16.º Feb 2022 | ||||
8a+ | ★★★ La buena | 40m, 17 | Chulilla | ★★★ Clásico | Sáb 19.º Feb 2022 | ||||
8a+ | ★★ A Fer La Mar - con Ella De Bono | 20m | Garx | Sáb 4.º Feb 2023 | |||||
8a+ | Encuentros en la II fase — 2 intentos | 28m, 12 | Lucena del Cid | Mar 12.º Dic 2023 | |||||
8a+ | ★★★ Tarali Valent - con Kristian | 25m | Sella | Dom 7.º En 2024 | |||||
8a+ | ★★★ Eterna juventud | 35m | Chulilla | ★★ Muy buena | Dom 4.º Feb 2024 | ||||
8a+ | ★★★ Los vigilantes - con Mari | 35m | Chulilla | Dom 25.º Feb 2024 | |||||
Oh those slopers...
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8a | |||||||||
8a | ★ El Desafío (El desafio) - con Tine | 18m | Llíber | ★ Buena | Mar 24.º Dic 2013 | ||||
Too hot, could not do one move, too weak.
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7c+ 8a | ★★★ El bufa | 38m | Chulilla | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 20.º Dic 2014 | ||||
7c+ 8a | ★★★ El bufa | 38m | Chulilla | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 24.º Dic 2014 | ||||
Didnt get very far on this shot. Feeling a little rundown. 5th bolt bail.
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8a+ 8a | ★★★ Vejiga Vibratoria | 25m | Chulilla | Dom 25.º En 2015 | |||||
Two big jumps. That's it.
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8a+ 8a | ★★★ Vejiga Vibratoria | 25m | Chulilla | Dom 25.º En 2015 | |||||
7c+ 8a | ★★ Plantea Namek | 28m | Chulilla | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 14.º Feb 2015 | ||||
Glad to pull the crux. Great powerfurl moves all the way.
Rumour has it if you take the girdle at 2/3 height it goes at 7c+. And also because a flake broke before the crux that makes no difference to route its 8a.
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7c+ 8a | ★★ Plantea Namek | 28m | Chulilla | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 14.º Feb 2015 | ||||
Slipped of the heel move. Was to gassed to get to the top clean.
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7c+ 8a | ★★ Plantea Namek | 28m | Chulilla | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 16.º Feb 2015 | ||||
7c+ 8a | ★★ Plantea Namek | 28m | Chulilla | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 18.º Feb 2015 | ||||
Foot slipped-crux
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7c+ 8a | ★★ Plantea Namek | 28m | Chulilla | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 18.º Feb 2015 | ||||
Hand slipped- crux
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7c+ 8a | ★★ Plantea Namek | 28m | Chulilla | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 18.º Feb 2015 | ||||
Foot slipped crux. Took bat and ball and went home.
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8a | ★★★ Los veteranos (L1) (Los Veteranos R1) | 25m | Chulilla | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 21.º Feb 2015 | ||||
Quite a change of pace. Powerful tufa pinching.
3 shots
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7c+ 8a | ★★ Plantea Namek | 28m | Chulilla | ★★ Muy buena | Dom 1.º Mar 2015 | ||||
1 shot. Fell at the lower crux. Pulled on and topped.
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8a | ★★ Ergometria | 26m, 9 | Sella | Sáb 3.º Dic 2016 | |||||
From a ghost to a dog ascent. Think the start will go will some luck and a few shots. 1 sit from the crux start. So 2 sits I guess. Found some sneaky rests. Hopefully will be fit enough not to need them.
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8a | ★★ Ergometria | 26m, 9 | Sella | Mié 7.º Dic 2016 | |||||
Fell going to fat pinch. Sorted sequence for getting to anchors.
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8a | ★★ Ergometria | 26m, 9 | Sella | Dom 11.º Dic 2016 | |||||
Forget the first crux sequence. re-worked and lowered.
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8a | ★★ Ergometria | 26m, 9 | Sella | Dom 11.º Dic 2016 | |||||
All to plan on the 2nd crux but something wasn't right. 4 more attempts of the move but couldn't stick it. Belayer decided to lower me
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8a | ★★ Ergometria | 26m, 9 | Sella | ★★ Muy buena | Dom 8.º En 2017 | ||||
More attempts at figuring out a sequence for the start. Managed to get to the anchors clean from the move AFTER the start crux.
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8a | ★★ Ergometria - con Matt Pascoe | 26m, 9 | Sella | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 11.º En 2017 | ||||
Sequence almost worked. Pulled on above 2nd bolt and climbed the other 33 meters to the top without to much hassle.
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8a | ★★ Ergometria - con No linkge on start. Worked the rest of the route without any drama. | 26m, 9 | Sella | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 13.º Feb 2017 | ||||
Working 2nd bolt boulder.
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8a | ★★ Plantea Namek - con Sammi | 28m | Chulilla | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 25.º Feb 2017 | ||||
Up to the wingspan move on OS. Then much dogging.
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8a | ★★ Plantea Namek - con Sammi | 28m | Chulilla | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 25.º Feb 2017 | ||||
Off on the move above the wingspan traverse. Quick rest.
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7c+ 8a | ★★★ Tequila sunrise - con Sammi, jjobrien, Christopher Glastonbury | 38m | Chulilla | ★★★ Megaclásica | Mié 1.º Mar 2017 | ||||
Got this confused with El Bufa. I have a great record so far of thinking I'm on a different route here.
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8a | ★★★ El bufa - con Sammi | 38m | Chulilla | Jue 2.º Mar 2017 | |||||
Gearing up the beast
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8a | ★★★ El bufa - con Sammi | 38m | Chulilla | Jue 2.º Mar 2017 | |||||
Died at bolt 9. Only 1 million to go.
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