Ascensiones en Graubünden teniendo Beta

Alright, the first 3 pitches are super good climbing. What to say about the 4th one ... 7a, really ?!?! No way !!! The rock is so bad, maybe all the holds broke since the grade was first set. No idea how to pass the first crux and had to pull on the hanging sling 😶

First 3 pitches are really nice (very good). Last one felt like anything beyond anything I ever climbed even hangdog (e.g. 7c or 8) but CRAP rock. I spent 1.5 hour belaying and getting rock on my face because all the holds Nico was trying to hold on were crap rock. Might not be easy to belay down from 3rd pitch so not sure I would recommend. Next time will try majihuana trip of something like this instead.

Grade wise, more like: 6a, 6b+, 6a+, 7c(/8+??)

Amazing route. Quite demanding throughout. The pitch 7 "6b" is quite unde-rated. It is sustained technical move on a vertical slab. Amazing pitch but demanding! Bolting: First 3 pitches are really well bolted. Last 6 slightly more alpine but still very well protected. 2a section is not bolted but not tricky - just do not fall! . Some mild run-outs on the easy sections of the 6a+ length as well.

We did the 2nd and 3rd pitch as one and also combined the 6th and 7th pitch. Makes more sense and saves time As a mostly limestone-sportclimber the first 6c pitch (our 2nd pitch) was definitely the crux pitch for me! Afterwards it was total plaisir! 😍 It was very well bolted and we didn‘t need to place any additional gear.

1., 5. und 6. Seillängen sind sehr schön

Super Route. Ich kann es nur empfehlen. Die 6B-Stelle ist unbequem, aber nicht nötig (pa).

The cruxes in pitches 2, 6 and 10 cost us some time. Especially the move in pitch 6 has to be done above to bolt and is a delicate move with not-so-good underclings and nothing to stand on. I ended up aiding it with the help of a camalot #1...

Up to pitch 9 the route is well bolted. In pitch 10 there are some 5b-ish moves at the beginning of the pitch that would result in a ground-fall when done wrong and further up there is a delicate slab (5c-ish) that has to be safely climbed if you don't want to fall 10m...

An vielen Stellen hat es sich deutlich schwerer angefühlt - vermutlich musste ich mich zuerst an den Fels und die Kletterei gewöhnen. Auf der Platte bin ich fälschlicherweise dem leicht rechtshaltenden Riss gefolgt und dann haben wir den etwas kürzeren 5b+ Ausstieg erwischt.

zml gewollte/gesuchte Linie, immer wieder verwirrend in der Wegfindung, weil oft nicht einer logischen Linie gefolgt wird.

Die ersten 3 Seillängen können über ein Schrofenband umgangen werden.

The bolts are set a bit weirdly. So in the slab on the first pitch, there is a somewhat delicate travese to the third bolt - slipping there would result in a ground fall.

The third pitch on the other hand could be easily protected with gear, but there are enough bolts (and "friends forever") so it's not really necessary.

The crux is an undercling move with almost nothing to stand on.

Very nice ascent./ A classic. First 5a slab is a bit engaged above 2nd bolt. But feels OK as long as belayer is ready to run down a little. Extra cams (C4 size 1), Z4 (0.75, 0.5, some 0.3 as well) can be useful. IMPORTANT: especially important because the 4b pitch is barely secured (I think there is only 1 bolt for 30 m). Connection to Fiamma possible HOWEVER not secured. So cams and some nuts might be useful (in this case you need approx 5 to 10 depending on how comfortable you are + anchor setting equipment) - having a couple of cams above 1 size would have been useful there (didn't have any)). But easy terrain in 3 / 4 grade. The only thing not so nice is the amount of rope drag you will get! Definitely worth it though!

6 Stars, Future Classic, Hidden Gem... If you don't love this route then you don't love climbing.

How to even begin? Best 6a+ and 6b+ pitch I've ever climbed. Was cussing my way up the wall at how good it all was. Immaculate limestone, bomber features. Cozy belays to free the toes. 7b+ crux pitch reminiscent of Yosemite's Separate Reality, cutting feet 500m in the air with nothing but the void below. Cramps in forearm hips lats and calves. Shade til 1p. What an ultra high value climb.

Thank you Marcel for bolting this one! 17th ascent

Epic first and fourth pitch, led all

Soft

Soft

Bella partenza aerea da due tacche e allungo su piatto svaso lungo lo spigolo.

Soft

Totally my style 😍

I'm not sure if I climbed that one or another, but a good hard wall over all, especially for summertime.

Alles im ersten Versuch vorgestiegen.

Die Mutter aller Platten

Die Hammertraverse, monotone geile Hangelei mit sauviel Gaudi ;-)

Very nice! I was glad that the name had nothing to do with this route 😅

Traverso (da sinistra, sit) lungo lo spigolo stondato del blocco 209 che sale fino al top del 6b tutto a destra.

Very nice but sadly a little short.

kombi mit die auferständerung

Kombi mit Auferständerung

Oben nochmals spannend

Megusta! The Crux pitch is super stellar!!

Nice line - sit start variant, interestingly gets 6c in the guide book.

Partenza dalla presa buona a metà della linea Traversatta.

No foot

Soft

Soft