Ascensiones en Bregaglia teniendo Beta

I went left to the arete where the crack goes to the right.

Up, bivy, then down with Mike over 2 days.

Entered the Ridge in the dark too early. Roped up after pitch #4. Did Running belay to the top (~3h) except 10m (crux). Great line. Great day.

10Sl (inkl 6c+), mit Mirko, Einstieg über Spidi, SRII

Swung leads. (Date not exact -- was late July 2009 trip to the Alps.)

5Sl, mit Anika

This is the route we intended to do but did only first two pitches. Should have headed left of second dihedral after this, but went up between dihedrals. Dave linked both pitches.

Coole Linie, aber weit schlechter abgesichert als im SAC GR Führer angegeben

The 5b pitch was harder than the 6a.

The 5b pitch was harder than the 6a.

The 5b pitch was harder than the 6a.

A classic thin arete, with Rolts.

Another climb on my trip. We made a mistake, and bailed at the fore-summit -- thinking Bacun was Balzet, and we didn't have time to finish.

Bailed out two pitches above roof because of rain.

Classic

Alternating lead/second

Really nice pitches to the NE ridge. No additional gear necessary. Plaisir.

Vor einigen Jahren betrachtete man diese imposante und von weitem unbekletterbare Nordostwand. Damals unvorstellbar und nun war es dann doch soweit. Perfektes stabiles Wetterfenster, juter Kletterpartner und nen fettes Stück Schinken. Was braucht man mehr.

Start um 03:35 von der Sasc Furä.

05:20 Querung auf dem Band

06:00 Einstieg in die Originallinie (die Rebuffat Variante hatte bereits 2 Seilschaften).

09:00 mit einigem Stau vor der ersten Schlüsselstelle im unteren Teil erreichten wir nach dem Schuttband das "Frühstückplatzerl" vor der eigentlichen Schlüssellänge 11. (6+)

12:30 Einstieg in die Ausstiegskamine (L17)

14:40 Ausstieg auf die Nordkante

18:30 Ankunft an der Gianetti und nach einer kurzen Pause Abstieg zum Bagni di Masino

22:00 Ankunft am Bad und kurze Katzenwäsche mit frischem warmen Thermalwasser

Classic route

Tourenbericht: https://klettertagebuch.wordpress.com/2023/07/07/spazzacaldeira-via-felici-6a-und-nigg-variante-6a/

Cimbed to pitch 15 when a fierce hail storm hit us. 1h of Ice and stone fall hammered us and left us with bruises and hole in jackets after stone fall. One of my worst experiences in +35 Y of climbing. Happy to be alive.

Retreat after the first pitch.

Delicate slabbing leads to a summit.

Delicate slabbing leads to a summit.

4Sl, mit Mirko

Teilweise kein Bohrhaken zwischen den Ständen gefunden. Topo aus dem SAC Führer stimmt nicht so recht. Insgesamt keine Wiederholung wert.

The bolts are set a bit weirdly. So in the slab on the first pitch, there is a somewhat delicate travese to the third bolt - slipping there would result in a ground fall.

The third pitch on the other hand could be easily protected with gear, but there are enough bolts (and "friends forever") so it's not really necessary.

The crux is an undercling move with almost nothing to stand on.

The cruxes in pitches 2, 6 and 10 cost us some time. Especially the move in pitch 6 has to be done above to bolt and is a delicate move with not-so-good underclings and nothing to stand on. I ended up aiding it with the help of a camalot #1...

Up to pitch 9 the route is well bolted. In pitch 10 there are some 5b-ish moves at the beginning of the pitch that would result in a ground-fall when done wrong and further up there is a delicate slab (5c-ish) that has to be safely climbed if you don't want to fall 10m...

WOW WOW WOW. The exposure is surreal.

Fantastic. The view, the ridge, the superb granite.

Very nice ascent./ A classic. First 5a slab is a bit engaged above 2nd bolt. But feels OK as long as belayer is ready to run down a little. Extra cams (C4 size 1), Z4 (0.75, 0.5, some 0.3 as well) can be useful. IMPORTANT: especially important because the 4b pitch is barely secured (I think there is only 1 bolt for 30 m). Connection to Fiamma possible HOWEVER not secured. So cams and some nuts might be useful (in this case you need approx 5 to 10 depending on how comfortable you are + anchor setting equipment) - having a couple of cams above 1 size would have been useful there (didn't have any)). But easy terrain in 3 / 4 grade. The only thing not so nice is the amount of rope drag you will get! Definitely worth it though!

An absolute joy! Last section to the anchor is a tad engaged (I think you end up 4 to 5 metres above last bolt) but you kind of feel safe with the hands on the ledge / left side) — with Eveline K.

The climbing itself is not super good. The view instead is worth it.

Skipped Fiamma (15th pitch) not to queue up and be on time for the last funicular

Die 6 Seillängen auf den Gipfel zusätzlich (3a bis 4c).

it started to rain... :-(

Tourenbericht: https://klettertagebuch.wordpress.com/2023/07/08/piz-balzet-via-del-gipeto-6a/