Vías en Idaho

The climbing starts on easy slab until you reach the flake & then things get vertical. There is no protection before you reach the flake but none is needed. Climb the flake using slab and other features for feet. All protection is in the flake and in the crack behind the flake once it widens. Climbing is more difficult after the flake widens and gets even more vertical. Bring doubles in mid ranges from .75 through 1, triples in #2 & 3 saving One of each for the anchor. This climb is a fabulous lead.

Mostly a finger crack with lots of surface rugiosity to help you out. The route eats Small to midsize gear up to about A #1. Nice fist crack at the top which can take larger pieces. Gear anchor. Walk off a 5.5 ramp to the right as you face the crack.

This route is not listed in the Idaho Underground guide but the book does show undesignated anchors just to the left of the Lightening Crack anchors and to the right of the Steep Disorder anchors. The apparent line follows the off-width crack which veers to the left of the same roof where lightning crack veers to the right of the roof. The anchors are very accessible from the top of the cliff to set up as a toprope. Some larger pieces will be needed for the OW section, a #4, a #5, a #6, & either a #7 or the lime colored Big Bro will work. After the OW section normal size pieces, .3 to .75, will finish the job. The Boise Climbs guide lists this route with no anchors, but new anchors with chains have apparently been added since the book was published.

Solid hand crack on perfect granite. You will have to build a trad anchor in ample medium sized cracks at the top.

Double dihedral which climbs very well with chimney moves once the surface holds start to thin out after the midpoint of the climb. The double dihedral peters out as you approach the anchors for a stellar and very physical finish. The final move is a slabby mantel on thin finger holds with the dearth of footholds as the main primary problem. A stellar but physical move once you figure it out. Something like four bolts but the entire line would protect well with mostly small cams.

Mountain project describes this route as 45'. I top rope soloed this twice with a 40 meter rope and reached the ground with about 5 feet of rope to spare. This tells me that the route is significantly longer then 45', probably at least 55 feet. 409, the route to the right, ends on the same anchors and so is the same length at 55 feet.

A solid fingers to hand-sized crack for about 40 feet, then transitions to easier face climbing. The route finishes in the same dihedral moves shared by Lancelot. A very loose Block just below the anchors Is marked with an X. Good gear for the whole climb, up to a #1. Could probably place a #2 down low.

Brilliant ever changing crack. Starts behind the boulder with about eighteen feet of comfortable chimney climbing before you reach the crack. You can toss your rope over the boulder before tying in and Then use the boulder to protect the chimney moves. Your first piece will be in the main crack once you reach it. Good features to help with foot and hand jams as the crack continues eventually turning into an off-width toward the top. Take a double rack from .2 - #3. #2 & 3 for the anchor. Rap station is to the climbers right, or take your chances finding the walk off.

Lower Crack is hand to fist on the right and finger size on the left of the dihedral. Exit the roof to the face on the right to aCquire the zig zag mostly finger size cracks above. The last moved to the anchor are the obvious crux.

Hand crack for first half of the climb before transitioning to a demanding face climb. Afternoon shade.

Very good basalt climbing an a column with a crack to the right.

Just what the name says, stemming and jamming, hands and feet. . Solid hand crack on the right for most of the climb.

Fun vertical slab with plenty of jugs.

Climb a column with a small crack for gear, with 5.8 movement for most of it. The payoff is moving past a complex bulge to finally reach the anchors by using small cracks and a mantel and improvised feet. Good pro with small pieces for the whole climb.

Slab start to a bolt. Standard rack up to #2. Rap anchors.

Anchor is just above the big flake.

Shares anchors with sweet Adene

Climb a crack system to the left of a triple roof formation. Move To the right over the roof when you can and follow the crack to the top. Plenty of places to built a gear anchor. The guide booK says there are bolt an hors but we did not find any. There is an Excellent rap station to the climbers left on a huge ledge just left of Finer Niner.

Great line with lots of finger holds. Ends on a balancy bulge requiring thoughtful footwork right below the anchors.

Named after the first nuclear power plant, loacted out in the plains - look hard ;-)

Mostly 5.2-5.6 climbing

Gear anchor.

Great short hand crack which transitions quickly to a much wider crack at midway up to a ledge. Easier climbing to the anchors. Stellar climb to hone your wide crack techniques. Super fun. Works well with either the Aunt Fannie/Buster Bronco anchors or the anchors to the right Of the toute. The Anchors to the right can be set for top rope by raping down from the Aunt Fannie anchors to a traverse ledge over to the anchors.

Some very good shabby face climbing on this route. fully bolted with anchor bolts for each pitch. Easy to combine pitches.

Easy slab. Tree anchor or gear anchor.

You can top rope from the Heat Miser anchors or from the higher anchors to the left of heat Miser, but it is much harder to get to these anchors and probably bumps the grade. The route follows a nice hand to fist crack most of the way with good feet. Protects pretty well most of the way on lead. Crux is the finish in the overhung offwidth with imbedded stones.

Stemming moves to a slabby mantel to the changes. Sustained and interesting climbing the whole way. Protects well with small to medium pieces.

Big moves on good holds, goes left towards the anchor with a long move.

10 bolts but most leaders will want to protect in the small crack to the left of the bolt line to avoid the possibility of what would be a terrible fall. There are anchor chains at the top.

In the guidebooks and on Mountain project this route is indicated to use the Heat Miser anchors but this route now has it's own anchor. The new anchor is to the right and about ten feet higher than the anchors for Heat Miser which makes the route about 60 feet long. Mostly 5.7 climbing, but the final moves to the anchor follow a crack past a burly bulge, and are closer to 5.9.

Excellent moderate climb which showcases the special worn patina nature of Castle Rock. Vertical face with lots of great texture and good holds.

Finger crack with good jug holds on the face if you can't make the crack work. Some say the grade should be 5.8 if you just use the crack. Very good rock on this climb. Takes medium to small Cams the whole way.

Good hand crack most of the way, until the ledge right below the anchors. The crack eats #1s #2s and #3s, small stuff up top. Shares anchor with The Cleaning Lady.