Ascensiones en San Juan County teniendo Beta

first time leading this - only had my rack and had to fiddle with gear so a bit pumpy, but a good measure of progress since this time last year!

EoD after loads of scouting, head wasn't there so backcleaned the pillar

still super fun

EoD lap to clean, felt smoother, worked out alternate beta to fist stack

fun, strenuous layback with tenuous smear. it's kinda all there but would never lead this, I like having fingers attached and intact. logging as 11+ having stemmed to Gorilla where they join up

first route of the trip! was slow, still not confident on yellows to blues

Hung once. Gnarly roof!

Estrenando cams!!!

Fucken banger

Kicked my ass

Coming back for the send

Coming back for the send

Overhung baggy #3s forever with very limited rest opportunities - absolute pump fest

Has everything exactly where you need it to keep it 5.8

Plunged a #5 into a #4 sized crack. Had to come back for a hammer lap to get it out. Busted the trigger but it's still good! First stuck cam experience, what a treat

Indian creek rock up at the car park and ask the first crew you see to climb with you pays off.

Saw a group of 6 fun looking folk hanging around and asked if I could join them, they said they didn't know what they were climbing - just said they were waiting for a friend to arrive and they were doing some of their wide FAs.

Well their friend was Pamela Pack and it turns out I was dropping in on her art of offwidth clinic and she was stoked to have me to mooch off her knowledge. With unmatched stoke and enthusiasm "And who's this guy???? Got a rope? Let's go climb some wide stuff!"

Learned how to tape effectively, how to climb every size on this climb - it tapers (very smoothly) from #1 to #8 - did this on a mock lead, placing #8 cams feels exactly as sick as you think it does. Had Pam spraying me down on. A fixed line from above and Gisely from the ground, doesn't get better than this.

Best climbing day ever? Certainly up there.

Read the offwidth section wrong and struggled, was absolutely cooking by the time the jams came

Sick climb! Awesome jams the whole way thin hands to fists to fingers, has it all

Sick climb, coolum style roof crux moves into thin hands. The start section was cruisy for the big handed but burly

Took the ringlock/thin hands exam way too early. Splitter .75 Crux into splitter 1s. 5.11 in the book, 5.11d on MP, I'm claiming the crag 5.12a with my big hands. Absolutely rinsed getting up this

Ringlock school is in

Gruntier than expected. A frog esque route to start the creek career

Rattly 1s

Techy flake sections on the bottom and top schooled me,#3 splitter in the middle was the goods though. Maybe one of the best trad single pitches I've ever done?

Cupped hands corner crack with good feet. Made for a stiff warm up

Had to fight super hard to get up this. Slab finger crack that just gets steeper and steeper. My proudest trad ascent to date

Great slab finger crack to a bulge

The extension to Twin Cracks. Quite sport climbing in terms of movement along the flake with large gear

Bomber jamming and good stances to place gear

This kicked my butt a bit, thought it was 5.10. Just didn't understand how to move through the upper section

Pleased with this route. Slowly starting to understand crack climbing

Pumped out just before the #2 hands bulge

So many options for jam sizes. From fingers to thigh locks

Fourth shot

Really sustained and hard for the grade.

Repeat, really really good climbing

Second shot, right start

Second shot, right start

Pumpy very cupped hands in overhang!

Really struggled in the chimney

Was pretty spicy with only one #4