Ascensiones escalada entre 2022-06-01 y 2022-06-30 en World como Red point como clásica o deportiva

Good day for it. Started late at 1 and topped out at 4:30. Eventful descent down caves route & Zeitgeist with one head torch in the dark, and I got a migraine, so was unable to see out of one eye. Props to Danny being my eyes and for checking my rap rigs for me.

Gets one star for the poor rock and holds that broke on me.

Si le première pas de la voie vaut 5b il faut arrêter de grimper! En revanche, le troisième longueur athlétique est très cool.

The start of pitch two is now a delicate crimping problem because critical holds have snapped off.

Waht an amazing route. The 7b pitch has an anchor 2/3rd up, but the pitch goes to the very top. For me this felt more like 7b+. An 80m rope is enough to make it back to the ground.

Yesterday I Sliced open my pinky jumping from the good sloper to the crimp up left. Today send as a warm up as revenge.

A bit of a two move wonder, but a cool little boulder problem.

Magnifique, resi physique sur petites colos et inversées. 2 essais. 8c+/9a.

Physique et bien résistant.

Majeur. Bloc en bas et en haut dans un panneau très déversant.

I’ll give into the peer pressure and suggest 33. The first in Tassie when confirmed. Originally, I thought once sticking the crux move I’d take it to the top making it a grade or two easier… however, I stuck the crux about 10 times and continued falling off the top for days after. Thanks Gazza for bolting the future.

with kneepad is way easier, there is a big kneebar before the crux

pinchy pinch

Sloper move is cool! Not sure about the grade maybe 29/30 depending on the connies.

One of the best routes I've ever climbed. Thanks for all the belays guys.

Oh well, apparently the juice was there. Went first go of the day, so psyched!

Yewww! Super fun!

Worked out the moves yesterday and got it on my first shot today after warming up. Cool bouldery starts which leads to easier but still challenging climbing all the way up. Really cool line! Need to sequence the start part very well and practice your deadpoint skills!

4th go

Estilo tradicional, poniendo los cacharros. Mi segundo día de escalada en este estilo y que mejor que hacerlo con esta vía tan famosa y en esta escuela que tanto me enseñó. La hice hace mucho y recuerdo que me costó, hoy la miré en mi primer pegue y la pude hacer al segundo. Día duro en el que escalamos con 40° y al sol por no acordarme de cuando le daba la sombra al muro

(w qd) L1 3rd Go

Second shot 6th day on So spoogee the chalk washed off my hands

Estilo tradicional. De las cosas más peligrosas y expuestas que he escalado nunca. 4 seguros en toda la vía que se me salían cada dos por tres... Brutal! Que ganas de escalar más en este estilo!

Trad

hard mental fight with this route, 6 sessions and quite a lot of tries in the end haha...12 very hard and crimpy moves up to a good pintch at bolt 3 (move 9 was very aleatory for me), bad rest on the pintches, then 8 physical moves up a crazy juggy hole at bolt 5, big cross to another hole and a technical, not so hard runout to bolt 6 (however that's where I fell 4 times in total haha!), finally the easy top with 2 more bolts and then the chains.

Had a blast working this one. Big fan of every sequence.

Good things come to those who wait