Mostrando los 66 ascensiones.
Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Zona | Calidad | Fecha | |||
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29 | ||||||||
27 29 | ★★ Jet Lag | 18m, 8 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Lun 29.º Sep 2014 | |||
I did the easy start (HAGF), which makes it maybe 27. Good technical climbing. 2 days. On the top wall I remember lunging for a jug, my feet came off and Gareth took in thinking I was coming off - but I held the jug and then had to hold nearly being pulled off. Just squeaked through.
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29 | ★★★ Masada - con Rob McLeod | 28m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Jue 5.º Nov 2015 | |||
I really like this one. Great line, great climbing, great history. 4 days.
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28 | ||||||||
29 28 | ★★★ Cobwebs | 20m | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Lun 29.º Sep 2014 | |||
Great route. Classic Arapiles hard route, slopey and slippery and sustained. 6 days, including falling off slapping the last jug...
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28 | ★ Pain and Frequency - con Alister Robertson, Kent Paterson | 18m | The You Yangs | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 14.º Jun 2004 | |||
Thanks to Neil for the rebolting! I think this took me 7 days in the end. Clearly a sandbag at 28 ; ) (I did actually do about four other 28's in 2004, all in 2-4 days, but this one is an unusual style)
Actually a very good route if you live in Melb and like crimping, aretes and slabbing. |
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28 | ★★★ Brown Corduroy Trousers - con Ingvar Lidman | 25m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 4.º Jul 2016 | |||
Beautiful climbing in the initial groove and the top, the crux is not quite as nice - just really hard crimping. I wore a groove in my left boot on the crux edge - always thought my foot was going to blow but I guess the groove held it on! Strangely takes lots of gear between #2 and #3 RP size. 3 days I think.
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27 | ||||||||
27 | ★★★ Citizen Arcane - con Wendy Eden | 24m | Frederick Peak | ★★★ Megaclásica | Jue 8.º Oct 2015 | |||
Boom! 3:30am, done. Hype hype hype - this is the best route I've ever dogged into submission. What's better than this? Procul...what else?
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27 | ★ Genug - con Gordon Poultney | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Sáb 14.º Nov 2015 | |||
Has a very, very cool crux move - drive by from layaway to undercling
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27 | ★★ Angular Perspective (to first chain) - con Dave Jones | 12m | Bundaleer Area | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 3.º En 2016 | |||
Dave and I both did it in bare feet - I'm sure it's easier without shoes as you can get your toes in the pockets for the dyno.
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26 | ||||||||
26 | ★★ The Fortress - con Paul Hoskins | 18m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 29.º Abr 2015 | |||
A bit slimy now, but I did it with three dynos, so that's always fun.
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26 | ★★ Cecil B De Mille - con gordon poultney | 20m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 4.º Nov 2015 | |||
Very cool past the pillar.. I wish the chip was bigger! Nearly fell off every move after the crux to the top. Was too pumped to put the wire in so it was pretty exciting!
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26 | Hot Finger | 10m, 3 | Arapiles | Medio | Jue 5.º Nov 2015 | |||
More like 24?
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26 | ★★ Redacted 1 (Social Retard) - con Kieran Lawton | 30m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Jue 12.º Nov 2015 | |||
Really good, 4 x 23ish cruxes, a slopey bulge, a technical footsy traverse, a powerful iron cross, and a technical crank at the end. A great mirror image to Birdman.
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25 26 | ★★ Edging Bets - con estherenita | 20m, 6 | The You Yangs | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 14.º Nov 2015 | |||
25? Remember something a little scary about this, but also that it was good face climbing and that the finish was a bit exciting - probably mostly because I was pumped. Remember AlRob doing it well.
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26 | ★★ Ugly Voyage - con estherenita | 20m, 7 | Black Hill | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 14.º Nov 2015 | |||
I thought this was 25, may have had a few more holds in 2004 by the sounds of it! Really good face climbing.
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25 | ||||||||
25 | ★★★ Have A Good Flight - con Paul Hoskins | 18m, 5 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Lun 29.º Sep 2014 | |||
Great sustained climbing, a little sharp but stays dry unless rain has been heavy. A good one to fall off as it's a good clean fall. Second shot.
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25 | ★ The Flashing Blade | 25m, 5 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Vie 10.º Oct 2014 | |||
25 | ★★★ Henry Bolte | 30m, 3 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mié 29.º Abr 2015 | |||
I've never really liked the bottom half, but the top is good if you go direct.
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25 | Pancho And Pedro Go Bolting - con Martin Tatton | 15m | Arapiles | Medio | Mié 29.º Abr 2015 | |||
Technical
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25 | ★★ Bienenstich (Bienerstisch) - con Kieran Lawton, Gareth Llewellin | 20m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Jue 22.º Oct 2015 | |||
Great climbing, technical crux at start. After the bolts I remember small opposed wires, small cam, #3RP, medium cam (red or yellow camalot). Looks like 32!
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25 | ★★★ Station to Station - con Gareth Llewellin | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 24.º Oct 2015 | |||
Second day with a howling wind! I quite like this although it is old-school and wandery.
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25 | ★ Hueco Dreaming | 9m | Victoria Range | ★ Buena | Mar 3.º Nov 2015 | |||
I didn't find this a soft touch at all!
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25 | ★★ No Exit | 65m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 4.º Nov 2015 | |||
Backed off second pitch - I'll try taking a big cam for the pocket. Seemed committing pulling over the bulge.
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25 | ★★★ Spasm in a Chasm - con Gordon Poultney | 25m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Jue 12.º Nov 2015 | |||
Doesn't seem that soft to me. I'd worked the crux but not the finish - when I got through I was too pumped to place the wire, ended up just laying one on for the last hold, which fortunately was a jug. Phew.
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25 | ★★ Manic Depressive - con Paul Hoskins | 20m, 7 | Bundaleer Area | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 3.º En 2016 | |||
24 25 | ★★ Bliss | 20m | Bundaleer Area | ★ Buena | Dom 3.º En 2016 | |||
25 | ★★ Stonkers and Steroids - con Paul Hoskins | 30m, 4 | Frog Buttress | ★ Buena | Lun 4.º Jul 2016 | |||
Second or third shot, after which it was promptly downgraded from 26... sigh. Boulder problems between jugs.
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25 | ★★ IYFG | 16m | Mt Stuart | ★ Buena | Mar 23.º Oct 2018 | |||
25 | ★ Autoerotic Fatalities | 15m, 6 | Mt Stuart | ★ Buena | Mar 23.º Oct 2018 | |||
25 | ★ Avalon | 22m, 1 | Mt Stuart | ★ Buena | Mar 23.º Oct 2018 | |||
second shot
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24 | ||||||||
24 | ★ Use Me and Abuse Me | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | Medio | Mié 8.º Oct 2014 | |||
The bolts flex alarmingly
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24 | ★★★ Spring Offensive - con Wendy Eden | 20m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Vie 10.º Oct 2014 | |||
Brilliant! Bolts need replacing.
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24 | ★★ Fritz and Cyclops | 25m | Summerday Valley | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 5.º Oct 2015 | |||
Great steep funky stuff. Pumpy to place the gear.
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24 | ★★ Impasse - con Nicky Sunderland | 20m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Dom 11.º Oct 2015 | |||
Wandery but good.Took me two days, that was when I realised I wasn't going to do all the Moorhead '81 routes in a year!
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24 | ★★ Dreadnought | 54m | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 4.º Nov 2015 | |||
The second pitch is the only route I have gotten up before Nick Sutter! I find the first pitch desperate, especially placing the gear. The second pitch is desperate too, but only for a few moves, then it's easy.
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24 | ★★ Deeply Techo - con Enga Lokey | 20m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Jue 5.º Nov 2015 | |||
After the alcove I stopped at every move looking for gear as I wasn't convinced about the nest below.. I fell off slapping the jug at the top and went most of the length of the route. The gear was fine!
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24 | ★★ No Standing | 25m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Jue 5.º Nov 2015 | |||
Wandery but good climbing. You don't climb past the pin - you traverse L underneath it. Double ropes are good.
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24 | ★★ Allez | 25m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 10.º Nov 2015 | |||
A great first 8m or so, then just jump off and lower off the ring. Really cool. All big holds so good for the fingers. The second and third bolts are a bit hard to clip and you'd be hitting the ground so I'll try to remember to do this on doubles in the future. Pretty solid for 24.
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25 24 | Fistful of Steel | 15m | Bundaleer Area | Medio | Dom 3.º En 2016 | |||
24 | ★★ Down With His Pants | 20m, 3 | Frog Buttress | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 4.º Jul 2016 | |||
The bottom has a cool sequence, I remember enjoying the top too.
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24 | ★★ Free Will - con Geordie Webb | 20m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Dom 25.º Dic 2016 | |||
A great second ascent by Geordie minutes after the first. Good variety - a slippery seam, an awkward balancy crack, a weird traverse, crank through a roof and a headwall that can feel hard enough to be interesting if you're pumped - which I was. Good fun.
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23 | ||||||||
24 23 | ★★★ Orestes - con Duncan Steel | 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Lun 29.º Sep 2014 | |||
Great climbing but not great rock! I seem to be alone in finding this 24 - it's sustained, steep and the traverse is taxing to protect well. Several people have hurt themselves falling off it.
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23 | ★★ Primosanity - con Wendy Eden | 24m, 13 | Frederick Peak | ★★ Muy buena | Jue 8.º Oct 2015 | |||
Cool technical climbing which is quite varied.
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23 | ★★ Slap Happy - con dave jones | 30m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Jue 5.º Nov 2015 | |||
Desperately hard start
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23 | Poppies pitch 3 | 30m | Arapiles | Medio | Mar 10.º Nov 2015 | |||
23 | ★★ Shivers - con estherenita | 55m | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Jue 12.º Nov 2015 | |||
Very good! The first pitch is good and tricky - well protected apart from the start of Kingdom Come. The second pitch is hard and intimidating - I had to come back on a second day (why do I always attempt things on the back of the Pharos when I am hung over?). Even Malcolm didn't onsight it! You do the crux off a small wire or two and then run it out quite a long way. Great route.
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23 R | ||||||||
23 23 R | Cat People - con Gordon Poultney | 25m | Arapiles | Medio | Vie 13.º Nov 2015 | |||
Had my best day ticking ghosts when I did Spasm, Genug and this.. though Gordy had to show me how to do this by the end.
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23 | ||||||||
23 | ★★★ Milk Blood - con Gordon Poultney | 10m | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 14.º Nov 2015 | |||
Went for it off the wire at the rest... and fell off the last move.
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23 | ★★ The Broomstick - con estherenita | 21m, 6 | Camels Hump | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 14.º Nov 2015 | |||
23 | ★ Cellular Destruction | 8m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mar 17.º Nov 2015 | |||
23 | ★★★ One Day Hero | 15m | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 17.º Nov 2015 | |||
24 23 | ★★ In Phase | 20m | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 17.º Nov 2015 | |||
Two stars and maybe 24. What a great route. Slabby, vertical, steep - it's all hard. Supercool.
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23 | ★ De Facto | 18m | Frog Buttress | ★ Buena | Sáb 2.º Jul 2016 | |||
Did this about 1990 over two days. It's got good climbing but some slightly creaky flakes. You'd be mad not to place the side runner in MP - it's very close and much better than the RP's in the seam.
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23 | ★★★ Epic Journey - con Chad Albinger | 30m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Clásico | Lun 4.º Jul 2016 | |||
Good gear, great climbing, lovely route.
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23 | ★ L7s | 15m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Dom 18.º Oct 2015 | |||
I really liked this -- big holds, varied, accessible grade. Good warmup for the others
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23 | ★★ Two Hands are Better Than One | 20m, 3 | Mt Stuart | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 23.º Oct 2018 | |||
23 | ★ Bathos Bauble Boys | 21m | Mt Stuart | ★ Buena | Mar 23.º Oct 2018 | |||
fell off this all afternoon!
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22 | ||||||||
23 22 | ★ Rubber Neeples | 18m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Jue 22.º Oct 2015 | |||
22 | ★★ Cecilia | 25m, 4 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mié 4.º Nov 2015 | |||
22 | ★ Clap for Kiwis - con adam demmert, Wendy Eden | 18m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 10.º Nov 2015 | |||
Backed off this 10 years ago before the bolt was placed, and fell off it even with it! Really good rock and climbing, take a good number of small wires. Felt hard for the grade to me but Adam seemed to find a better sequence.
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22 | ★★ Ephemeral Direct Finish | 22m | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Vie 13.º Nov 2015 | |||
22 | ★★ Honeycomb - con Wendy Eden | 30m | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 17.º Nov 2015 | |||
Very good, but once you pull the lip it's over, which is a little disappointing. Maybe only use one arm on the top bit?
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21 R | ||||||||
22 21 R | ★★ Dramp | 15m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Jue 5.º Nov 2015 | |||
Super greasy committing layback around the roof.. gets a star just for the insecurity.
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20 R | ||||||||
20 20 R | ★ Rosshalde | 35m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mié 29.º Abr 2015 | |||
I fell off this! If you want to be safe, preplace cams above the start and preclip them on the abseil in. The start is hard and greasy and odd. So's the rest of it. The gr19 DF is pretty hard and exciting too (gear is ok, take small cams)
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16 | ★ Trouser Sighs | 25m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Lun 19.º Oct 2015 | |||
8 | ||||||||
8 | ★★ Spiral Staircase - con Tim Rogers | 100m | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Jue 12.º Nov 2015 | |||
Fabulous.
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5 | ||||||||
5 | ★★★ Tiptoe Ridge - con The Moon | 120m | Arapiles | ★★★ Megaclásica | Sáb 14.º Nov 2015 |
Mostrando los 66 ascensiones.