Noeuds dans Lost Boys

Beware of Vampires ... Some of the best quality sandstone in Toohey.

'Toohey Forest' is owned by the Brisbane City Council. It's an important habitat for 400 plants and animals, and is very popular with walkers, joggers and picnicking families. Therefore the usual rules of taking out your rubbish, keeping noise to a minimum, cleaning any chalk marks and so on are particularly important here if climbing is to remain an acceptable activity in the eyes of the community.

'Toohey Forest' is owned by the Brisbane City Council. It's an important habitat for 400 plants and animals, and is very popular with walkers, joggers and picnicking families. Therefore the usual rules of taking out your rubbish, keeping noise to a minimum, cleaning any chalk marks and so on are particularly important here if climbing is to remain an acceptable activity in the eyes of the community.

Sit start then up the crimpy edges.

Sit start two hands on jug at left hand end of ledge. Straight up. Gain the top. Initially seems tough but with the right beta goes pretty easy.

Sit start both hands on jaggy right hand end of ledge. Straight up. Avoid temptation to go left to bulbous edge. Using only the two main edges above the lip and directly above the start holds.

​Easier and slightly more secure finish to a slow escape uses the bulbous edge to the left when topping out. Kind of depends on your taste though.

As per a slow escape but instead of using the intermediate hold for a 2, go straight for the lip for a zombies undying envy.

​Start as per a slow escape but head diagonally right and up to top out a pinch is better than a bite. Probably a V2, maybe a soft 3.

​Starts in the middle of the vertical face 1 to 1.5m right of a slow escape. Stand start pinching two rib high chockstones. Straight up. Probably v2, maybe a soft 3.

Sit start diagonal edge (right hand) and sidepull (left hand) at right hand end of face. Traverse the face heading left (the lip and above are out). Top out a slow escape. Note - this may actually be the original start to headsloposion. Needs someone to confirm.

Sit start as per chestplosion then up just to the right of a pinch is better than a bite (left hand for this problem is typically right hand for a pinch is better than a bite).

This route was added to The Crag by Alex Mougenot (FA) but it wasn't added to a topo, nor was a description provided. From what I (Jack Mullaly) can tell from an old conversation in the area history, it traverses this boulder right to left. We assume it starts are the right hand diagonal edge and finishes far left. Certainly the crux is towards the left where the nice holds on top run out. Feel free to adjust if you know better than I!

Sit start. Both hands on jug at corner. Head up staying far left. Use only the approx. 60cm of rock to the left of the faint crack.

Sit start. Both hands on diagonal edge. Straight up without using obvious arete holds to left (as used in far left).

Thumb press eye height ledge. Straight up without using good holds to left (diagonal left) or right (my kingdom for a brush). Slopers only.

Sit start version to thumbelina. Find a start and go for it.

Sit start. Hands on small holds just below base of main bulge. Left is a good edge. Right is a good crimp. Up to diagonal rail then head up and let to good holds on top. Forgot my brush for FA. Was very dirty.

Start as per my kingdom for a brush. Head straight up. Enjoy the slopers.

Hands on great juggy ledge. Throw to lip.

Lip traverse right to left. Start at amazing sidepulls at far right. Traverse left and top out far left. Has a really great mix of different moves and holds. Graded V4 but might be better as a 3. Needs a second ascent.

'Toohey Forest' is owned by the Brisbane City Council. It's an important habitat for 400 plants and animals, and is very popular with walkers, joggers and picnicking families. Therefore the usual rules of taking out your rubbish, keeping noise to a minimum, cleaning any chalk marks and so on are particularly important here if climbing is to remain an acceptable activity in the eyes of the community.

Stand start on obvious jug to the right of two quality edges. Traverse left into the start of praise the cobble and then top up. An extended and much more difficult version could continue further left into the start of Will it Go and then top out from there.

Both hands on lip above head high. Feet on obvious knee height shelf. Gain the top using two quality edges on top.

As per two quality edges but gain the top without the edges.

Starts 1m left of two quality edges. Two hands in sloping divot at lip. Right foot in knee height pocket. Left foot smear. Throw right hand to square edge of lip to right. Obtain the top. Do not use large foot ledge to right (start of two quality edges).

Start on the same hand holds as Instrumantle. Foot on small face holds as required. Move up and slightly left into the slopers and cobbles above. Do not use the good edge as of Instrumantle. Do not stray too far left into Mantle unpieced (although if you do that and it helps your beta break is amazing). Gain the top.

Starts 0.5m to right of starter. Both hands undercling obvious chest height ledge. Left foot on foot hold used in Starter. Right foot smear. Straight up without using any part of the main Starter edge (you may undercling it if you want) (you maybe also use the slopey crimps immediately at the right hand end of the ledge)

Both hands start on large obvious edge. Right foot on ground level jug. Straight up

Starts 0.4m to left of starter. Hands in each of two shoulder high sloping divots. Feet on ledges 10cm above ground. Straight up without using the Starter ledge.

Likely easier to for tall people and very hard for those short of stature.

Feet on shelf at ground level. Left hand on hold just above head. Move up and slightly right. Maybe should only be V2.

Sit start down and left of standard praise the cobble start. Left hand on good sidepull. Right hand originally very gently nearby on slightly loose flake (Now broken. Use nearby cobbles instead) Up and right to standard praise the cobble start and top it out as normal.

Start as per the praise the cobble sit start. Traverse left through detrimantle start to the mantle unpieced start. Top out via mantle unpieced. At no point may you use the Starter ledge.

Sit start as per praise the cobble sit start. Traverse left into the start holds of Just Jenga and climb it. Make sure you get to the start holds before heading up. Resist the temptation to skip them. Likely to go around V4.

Right hand in mono pocket above head height. Left hand on jug 30cm to the left. Right foot high. Get on statically with left foot dangling just above the ground for a moment then start moving up and slightly right. Your feet may use some holds from praise the cobble, but the hands are on their own independent holds.

Sit start. Left hand on good edge 10cm left of big cobble. Right hand 60cm to right of big cobble on slopey edge with small inset slopey cobble. Head straight up to large sidepull and then left into angled slopey rail.

As per The elusive white rhinobut don't use the large sidepull. Note that sidepull is excluded because there used to be a dead tree here when the project was originally set. Note the original name for this project is likely either the Nanook Project or the Hellhound project.

The Nanook Project and the Hellhound project were originally added to the Santa Carla topo but according to Alex M they are located at the left hand end of Hudson's Bluff, in the vicinity of Will it Go.

The Nanook Project and the Hellhound project were originally added to the Santa Carla topo but according to Alex M they are located at the left hand end of Hudson's Bluff, in the vicinity of Will it Go.

Good potential for a problem or two coming out of this cave. Just check that you're comfortable that it's stable before you go lying beneath it. It feels like it is, but it doesn't look well supported.

Establish at the corner and then mantle the arete without using any of the other boulders (i.e. feet stay on the main roof boulder).

'Toohey Forest' is owned by the Brisbane City Council. It's an important habitat for 400 plants and animals, and is very popular with walkers, joggers and picnicking families. Therefore the usual rules of taking out your rubbish, keeping noise to a minimum, cleaning any chalk marks and so on are particularly important here if climbing is to remain an acceptable activity in the eyes of the community.

Sit start low on arete on good hold. Follow features in layback up to top out at peak. Avoid desire to mantle low and walk up.

Sit start, probably on cobbles. Up left to pocket. Gain top. Will need a lot of cleaning.

Small boulder just South of Santa Carla and Hudson's Bluff (past the Sea Cave). Only really of value if you want to make up contrived problems.

Establish on 4th layer from bottom. Layaway traverse left touching only that layer. When head passes tree and rock begins to cut inwards, mantle without using bottom 3 layes.

Establish on 3rd layer from bottom. Layaway traverse left touching only that layer. At left hand end (near small tree in picture) mantle using only that layer and one above.

Sit start hands on 2nd bottom layer. Feet on bottom layer in hole. Head up

'Toohey Forest' is owned by the Brisbane City Council. It's an important habitat for 400 plants and animals, and is very popular with walkers, joggers and picnicking families. Therefore the usual rules of taking out your rubbish, keeping noise to a minimum, cleaning any chalk marks and so on are particularly important here if climbing is to remain an acceptable activity in the eyes of the community.

Sit start. Both hands on obvious jug. Sitting on flat rock. Gain the top.

Sit start. Left hand on sidepull. Right hand on jug of everyone deserves a sit start. Somewhat strong pull to start then up.

Sit start. Left hand sidepull. Right hand pressing up into roof. Strenuous move to pull up (maybe deserves a V3 for this) then grab the crimp on the bulge (start to cracker cobble crimp). Gain the top.

Stand start. Left hand undercling. Right hand crimp the small edge chest height on the bulge. Throw left hand high and mantle.

Sit start. Feet low in the coffin. Left hand low and inside on good edge (maybe loose). Right hand low on right face near bottom edge. Hand positions shown in topo taken from underneath. Find a way up.